Etext of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book 
By Fannie Merritt Farmer 
Boston: Little, Brown and Company 
1918 

To 
Mrs. William B. Sewell, 
In Appreciation of Her Helpful Encouragement
And 
Untiring Efforts in Promoting the Work of 
Scientific Cookery, Which Means the 
Elevation of the Human Race, 

This Book Is Affectionately Dedicated 
By the Author 

Contents
Preface 
Food 
Cookery 
Beverages 
Bread and Bread Making 
Biscuits, Breakfast Cakes, and Shortcakes 
Cereals 
Eggs 
Soups 
Soups Without Stock 
Soup Garnishings and Force-meats 
Fish 
Beef 
Lamb and Mutton 
Veal 
Sweetbreads 
Pork 
Poultry and Game 
Fish and Meat Sauces 
Vegetables 
Potatoes 
Salads and Salad Dressings 
Entrees 
Hot Puddings 
Pudding Sauces 
Cold Desserts 
Ices, Ice Creams, and Other Frozen Desserts 
Pastry 
Pies 
Pastry Desserts 
Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers 
Cake 
Cake Fillings and Frostings 
Fancy Cakes and Confections 
Sandwiches and Canap S 
Recipes for the Chafing-dish 
Fruits: Fresh and Cooked 
Jellies, Jams, and Marmalades 
The Canning of Fruits and Vegetables by the
Open Kettle Method
(Used Principally for Fruits) 
The Drying of Fruits and Vegetables 
Helpful Hints for the Young Housekeeper 
Suitable Combinations for Serving 
Food Values 

Preface

Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of
Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all
herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and
sweet in the fields and groves and savory in meats. It means
carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of
appliances. It means the economy of your grandmothers and the
science of the modern chemist; it means much testing and no
wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art and
Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be
perfectly and always ladies loaf givers. RUSKIN.

"BUT for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life
requires nourishment."

With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have
not been forgotten. During the last decade much time has been
given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value,
and it is a subject which rightfully should demand much
consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not far
distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an
essential part of one's education. Then mankind will eat to live,
will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease
will be less frequent.


At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have
been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to
many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked
upon as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may
awaken an interest through its condensed scientific knowledge
which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.

Chapter I. FOOD.

FOOD is anything which nourishes the body. From fifteen to
twenty elements enter into the composition of the body, of which
the following thirteen are considered: oxygen, 621/2 % carbon,
211/2 % hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus,
potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium, magnesium, iron, and
fluorine the remaining 3%.

Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the
elements composing the body must be found in the food. The
thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by
the vegetable and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of
being, man. All food must undergo chemical change after being
taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is
the office of the digestive system.

Food is classified as follows:  
     1.   Proteins (nitrogenous or albuminous)
     2.   Carbohydrates (sugar and starch)
     3.   Fats and oils
     4.   Mineral matter
     5.   Water

The chief office of proteins is to build and repair tissues. They
furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and
oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur
or phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting
fats and glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk,
cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The
principal constituent of protein food is albumen. Albumen as
found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical
composition; as, albumen in eggs, fibrin in meat, casein in milk
and cheese, vegetable casein or legumen in peas, beans, and
lentils; and gluten in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatin.

The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and
maintain heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and
include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables,
fruits, cereals, sugars, and gums.

The chief office of fats and oils is to furnish energy and heat.
Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the
berry of the olive-tree. Fats and carbohydrates are stored as the
adipose tissues of the body.

The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts
which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples:
sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and
phosphates of sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides
calcium phosphates and iron.

Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in
all tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One
of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while
it is found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is
insufficient.

Vitamines, growth-promoting substances, are essential especially
for children. They are found in milk, butter, egg yolks, green
leaves, etc.

CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD

Age, weight, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine
the diet of a person in normal condition.

Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared
foods on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the
first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time
ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods,
entire wheat bread, baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and
occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr.
Johnson's Educators in place of the various sweet crackers,
children would be as well pleased and better nourished; with a
glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones,
and experience has shown that children seldom tire of them. The
diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits,
vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and
meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted
meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried
food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee,
and iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and
abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great
mental and physical growth. Where children have broken down,
supposedly from over-work, the cause has often been traced to
impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes
go on so rapidly that the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the
institutor of the school luncheon-counter!

The daily average ration of an adult requires

41/2 oz. protein
18 oz. starch
2 oz. fat
5 pints water

About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as
a beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical
work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate
climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian.
Women, even though they do the same amount of work as men, as
a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their protein in
a form easily digested. In consideration of this fact, fish and eggs
form desirable substitutes for meat. The working man needs
quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something
to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry, will
not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive organs lessen in
activity, and the diet should be almost as simple as that of a child,
increasing the amount of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount
of proteins and fat. Many diseases which occur after middle life
are due to eating and drinking such foods as were indulged in
during vigorous manhood.

WATER (H2O)

Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from
five sources, rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep
wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly
pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from
springs. For town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by
some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully
and frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with
disease germs.

The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime
and magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from
objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard
water may be softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small
amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO3).

Water freezes at a temperature of 32 degrees F., boils at 212
degrees F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and burst, the
boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower
temperature. From 32 degrees to 65 degrees F. water is termed
cold; from 65 degrees to 92 degrees F., tepid; 92 degrees to 100
degrees F., warm; over that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed
from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated; it
does not ferment, and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more
stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty stomach,
while at a temperature of from 60 degrees to 95 degrees F. it is
used as an emetic; 90 degrees F. being the most favorable
temperature.

Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal
purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of
its atmospheric gases.

There are many charged, carborated, and mineral spring waters
bottled and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable
table beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland,
Seltzer, and Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value.
Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters.

SALTS

Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is
sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues,
secretions, and fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of
the teeth. The amount found in food is not always sufficient;
therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch
as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.

Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea
water, also from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation
comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from
Louisiana and Kansas.

Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting
meat and fish.

Other salts lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron
are probably obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and
water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and
teeth depends upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system;
these are found in milk, green vegetables, fruit, cereals, meat, and
fish.

STARCH (C6H10O5)

Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed
throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in
cereals and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver it
forms one of the most important foods. Alone it cannot sustain
life, but must be taken in combination with foods which build and
repair tissues. 

Test for Starch. A weak solution of iodine added to cold cooked
starch gives an intense blue color.

Starch is insoluble in cold water, and soluble to but a small extent
in boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water
causes them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.

Starch subjected to dry heat is changed to dextrine (C6H10O5),
British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an acid or a ferment is
changed to dextrose (C6H12O6). Dextrose occurs in ripe fruit,
honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product. When grain is
allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is changed to
dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed to
alcohol (C2H5HO) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Examples: bread
making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.

Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in
some fungi. Examples: in liver of meat and oysters.

Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing
starch should be subjected to boiling water or dry heat, and
thoroughly cooked. Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and
potatoes. Cornstarch is manufactured from Indian corn. Arrowroot,
the purest form of starch, is obtained from two or three species of
the Maranta plant, which grows in the West Indies and other
tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is most highly esteemed.
Tapioca is starch obtained from tuberous roots of the bitter
cassava, native of South America. Sago is starch obtained from
sago palms, native of India.

SUGAR (C12H22O11)
Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet
taste and solubility in cold water. As food, its uses are the same as
starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be
assimilated.

The principal kinds of sugar are: cane sugar or sucrose, grape
sugar or glucose (C6H12O6), milk sugar or lactose (C12H22O11),
and fruit sugar or levulose (C6H12O6).

Cane sugar is obtained from sugar cane, beets, and the palm and
sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to
Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large
amount coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest of
all, and in all cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The
products of manufacture are: molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf,
cut, granulated, powdered, and confectioners' sugar. Brown sugar
is cheapest, but is not so pure or sweet as white grades; powdered
and confectioners' sugars are fine grades, pulverized, and, although
seeming less sweet to the taste, are equally pure. Confectioners'
sugar when applied to the tongue will dissolve at once; powdered
sugar is a little granular.

Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some
time, changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness;
therefore the reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane
sugar is of great preservative value, hence its use in preserving
fruits and milk; also, for the preparation of syrups.

Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: first, barley
sugar; second, caramel; third, carbon.

Grape sugar is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on
the outside of dried fruits, such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only
two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is
obtained from the starch of corn.

Milk sugar is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike
cane sugar does not ferment.

Fruit sugar is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as diabetin, is
sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic
patients.

GUM, PECTOSE, AND CELLULOSE

These compounds found in food are closely allied to the
carbohydrates, but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum
exists in the juices of almost all plants, coming from the stems,
branches, and fruits. Examples: gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and
mucilage. Pectose exists in the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during
the process of ripening it changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is
changed to pectosic acid, and by longer cooking to pectic acid.
Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold; pectic acid is jelly-like when
hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the cell-walls of vegetable life; in
very young vegetables it is possible that it can be acted upon by the
digestive ferments; in older vegetables it becomes woody and
completely indigestible. The cellulose of fruits, vegetables, and
whole grains is of great service in the elimination of waste matter,
thus preventing constipation.

FATS AND OILS

Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom.
Fats are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid
state by application of heat; they contain three substances,  stearin
(solid), olein (liquid), palmitin (semi-solid). Suet is an example
where stearin is found in excess; lard, where olien is in excess; and
butter, where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of
stearin and palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein,
and palmitin, with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic,
palmitic, and oleic acid. Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These
are not sour to the taste, but are called acids on account of their
chemical composition.

Among fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on
account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: the fat of
meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and
kidneys of the beef creature), cocoanut butter, butterine, and
oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are cod-liver oil and oil
found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are olive,
cottonseed, poppy, and cocoanut oils, peanut oil, and oils in
various nuts. Butterine and oleomargarine, which must be labelled
as such, if of good quality, are nutritious, inexpensive fats to be
used in place of creamery butter. Among other fats used for
cooking purposes, lard, crisco, and cottolene are the most popular.

Oils are divided into two classes, essential and fixed. Essential oils
are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: clove, rose, nutmeg,
and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil, or
turpentine. Examples: cottonseed, peanut and corn oil.
Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery
they have no boiling-point. When appearing to boil, it is evident
water has been added, and the temperature lowered to that of
boiling water, 212 degrees F.

MILK

COMPOSITION

Protein, 3.5%
Mineral matter, .75%
Fat, 4%
Water, 87.25%
Lactose, 4.75%

Boston Chemist.

The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it
constitutes the natural food of all young mammalia during the
period of their most rapid growth. Milk should constitute the
principal protein food of children. It is rich in calcium (which is
necessary for the building of bones) and vitamines
(growth-promoting substances). Adults as well as children should
be furnished a liberal milk supply. A quart for each child and a
pint for each adult, daily, is a desirable allowance. Hot milk is
often given to produce sleep.

When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat,
which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to
the top in the form of cream; this is due to their lower specific
gravity.

The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity
of fat therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter being nearly
constant, water varying but little unless milk is adulterated.

Why Milk Sours. A germ found floating in the air attacks a portion
of the lactose in the milk, converting it into lactic acid; this, in
turn, acts upon the casein (protein) and precipitates it, producing
what is known as curd and whey. Whey contains water, salts, and
some sugar.

Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurization, and evaporation.
Fresh condensed milk a form of evaporized milk, is sometimes
sold in bulk, and is preferred by many to serve with coffee.
Various brands of condensed milk and cream are on the market in
tin cans, hermetically sealed. Examples: Nestle's Swiss Condensed
Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy Condensed Milk, Highland
Evaporated Cream, Borden's Peerless Evaporated Cream. Malted
milk  evaporized milk in combination with extracts of malted
barley and wheat  is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in the
form of powder.

Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost
all creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has
been removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature
of about 150 degrees F.

In feeding infants with milk, sterilization or pasteurization is
recommended only to avoid danger of infectious germs. By this
process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if
necessary. To prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two
teaspoonfuls of lime water to each half-pint of milk. Lime water
may be bought at any druggist's, or easily prepared at home.

Lime Water. Pour two quarts boiling water over an inch cube
unslacked lime; stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the
morning pour off the liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep
in a cool place.

BUTTER

COMPOSITION

Fat, 83%
Ash, 3%
Water, 13%
Protein, 1%

U.S. Dept. Agriculture.

Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow's milk. The
quality depends upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in,
feeding. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest
amount of butter.

Butter should be kept in a cool place and well covered, otherwise
it is liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous
constituents of the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty
acids. First-quality butter should be used; this does not include pat
butter or fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly
worked during manufacture, consequently more casein remains;
therefore it is more apt to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils
quickly; salt acts as a preservative. Butter which has become
rancid by too long keeping may be greatly improved by melting,
heating, and quickly chilling with ice-water. The butter will rise to
the top, and may be easily removed.

Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the
market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and
are equally wholesome. Examples: butterine and oleomargarine.

Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter "has come." When
taken fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.

CHEESE

COMPOSITION

Protein, 31.23%
Water, 30.17%
Fat, 34.39%
Mineral matter, 4.31%

Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and
coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion
made from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the
calf. The curd is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made
from skim milk, milk plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a
longer or shorter time, according to the kind, that fermentation or
decomposition may take place. This is called ripening. Some
cream cheeses are not allowed to ripen. Milk from Jersey and
Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of cheese.

Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in protein, it may be used
as a substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in protein to
two pounds of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of
digestion. This is somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a
small amount of bicarbonate of soda. A small piece of rich cheese
is often eaten to assist digestion.

The various brands of cheese take their names from the places
where made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this
country. The favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam,
Gruyere, and Parmesan. Parmesan is very hard and used
principally for grating. The holes in Gruyere are due to aeration.

The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire,
Cheddar, and Gorgonzola; Milk and Cream cheese: Stilton and
Double Gloucester; Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchatel, and
Camembert.

FRUITS

The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses
important. They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and
salts, and are cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a
tonic, and assist in purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like
substance, called pectin, and several contain starch, which during
the ripening process is converted into glucose. Bananas, dates,
figs, prunes, and grapes, owing to their large amount of sugar, are
the most nutritious. Melons, oranges, lemons, and grapes contain
the largest amount of water. Apples, lemons, and oranges are
valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and lemons especially
valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to those who are
obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know that
plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than
other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the
largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on
account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance, are termed
queen of fruits.

Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many
are more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If
possible, fruits should always appear on the breakfast-table. In
cases where uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds
may be cooked and prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that
which is beginning to decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed
before serving.

VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND

The principal vegetable acids are:

I. Acetic (HC2H3O2), found in wine and vinegar.

II. Tartaric (H2C4H4O6), found in grapes, pineapples, and
tamarinds.

III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches,
apricots, gooseberries, and currants.

IV. Citric (H3C6H5O7), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and
citron.

V. Oxalic (H2C2O4), found in rhubarb and sorrel.

To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some
fruits contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in
strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric,
and oxalic in cranberries.

CONDIMENTS

Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food
adjuncts. They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor
to food. Among the most important are salt, spices, and various
flavorings. Salt, according to some authorities, is called a food,
being necessary to life.

Black pepper is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried
berries of Pipor nigrum, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and
other eastern countries.

White pepper is made from the same berry, the outer husk being
removed before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to
the coating of the stomach.

Cayenne pepper is the powdered pod of Capsicumgrown on the
eastern coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.

Mustard is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. Brassica
alba yields white mustard seeds; Brassica nigra, black mustard
seeds. Both species are grown in Europe and America.

Ginger is the pulverized dried root of Zanzibar officinale, grown in
Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three
grades,  Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.

Cinnamon is the ground inner bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum,
principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia)
is the powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which
is principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is
cheaper than true cinnamon.

Clove is the ground flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus,
native to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally
in Zanzibar, Pemba, and the West Indies.

Pimento (commonly called allspice) is the ground fruit of Eugenia
pimenta, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.

Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of the Myristica fragrans, grown
in Banda Islands.

Mace. The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed
constitutes the mace of commerce.

Vinegar is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the
product of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in
the making of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount
of acetic acid in vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.

Capers are flower buds of Capparis spinosa, grown in countries
bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and
bottled for exportation.

Horse-radish is the root of Cochliaria armoracia,  a plant native to
Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated,
mixed with vinegar, and bottled.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS

Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: almond,
vanilla, lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the
flower, fruit, or seed from which they are named. Strawberry,
pineapple, and banana extracts are obtained from the fruits
themselves or manufactured from chemicals.

Chapter II. COOKERY.

COOKERY is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the
body.

Prehistoric man may have lived on uncooked foods, but there are
no savage races to-day who do not practise cookery in some way,
however crude. Progress in civilization has been accompanied by
progress in cookery.

Much time has been given in the last few years to the study of
foods, their necessary proportions, and manner of cooking them.
Educators have been shown by scientists that this knowledge
should be disseminated; as a result, "Cookery" is found in the
curriculum of public schools of many of our towns and cities.

Food is cooked to develop new flavors, to make it more palatable
and digestible, and to destroy micro-organisms. For cooking there
are three essentials (besides the material to be cooked),  heat, air,
and moisture.

Air is composed of oxygen, nitrogen, and argon, and surrounds
everything. Combustion cannot take place without it, the oxygen
of the air being the only supporter of combustion.

Moisture, in the form of water, either found in the food or added to
it.

The combined effect of heat and moisture swells and bursts
starch-grains; hardens albumen in eggs, fish, and meat; softens
fibrous portions of meat, and cellulose of vegetables.

Heat is molecular motion, and is produced by combustion. Heat is
generated for cookery by employing kerosene oil, wood, coal,
charcoal, coke, gas, alcohol, or electricity.

Among fuels, kerosene oil is the cheapest; gas gives the greatest
amount of heat in the shortest time. Soft wood, like pine, on
account of its coarse fibre, burns quickly; therefore makes the best
kindling. Hard wood, like oak and ash, having the fibres closely
packed, burns slowly, and is used in addition to pine wood for
kindling coal. Where only wood is used as a fuel, it is principally
hard wood.

Charcoal for fuel is produced by the smothered combustion of
wood. It gives an intense, even heat, therefore makes a good
broiling fire. Its use for kindling is not infrequent.

There are two kinds of coal: Anthracite, or hard coal. Examples:
Hard and free-burning White Ash, Shamokin, and Franklin. Nut is
any kind of hard coal obtained from screenings. Bituminous, or
soft coal. Example: cannel coal.

Coke is the solid product of carbonized coal, and bears the same
relation to coal that charcoal bears to wood.

Alcohol is employed as fuel when the chafing-dish is used.

FIRE

Fire for cookery is confined in a stove or range, so that heat may
be utilized and regulated. Flame-heat is obtained from kerosene,
gas, or alcohol, as used in oil-stoves, gas-stoves or gas-ranges, and
chafing-dishes.

A cooking-stove is a large iron box set on legs. It has a fire-box in
the front, the sides of which are lined with fire-proof material
similar to that of which bricks are made. The bottom is furnished
with a movable iron grate. Underneath the fire-box is a space
which extends from the grate to a pan for receiving ashes. At the
back of fire-box is a compartment called the oven, accessible on
each side of the stove by a door. Between the oven and the top of
the stove is a space for the circulation of air.

Stoves are connected with chimney-flues by means of a stovepipe,
and have dampers to regulate the supply of air and heat, and as an
outlet for smoke and gases.

The damper below the fire-box is known as the front damper, by
means of which the air supply is regulated, thus regulating the
heat.

The oven is heated by a circulation of hot air. This is accomplished
by closing the oven-damper, which is situated near the oven. When
this damper is left open, the hot air rushes up the chimney. The
damper near the chimney is known as the chimney-damper. When
open it gives a free outlet for the escape of smoke and gas. When
partially closed, as is usually the case in most ranges, except when
the fire is started, it serves as a saver of heat. There is also a check,
which, when open, cools the fire and saves heat, but should always
be closed except when used for this purpose.

Stoves are but seldom used, portable ranges having taken their
places.

A portable range is a cooking-stove with one oven door; it often
has an under oven, of use for warming dishes and keeping food
hot.

A gas range is growing in popularity. Coal-range companies
recognizing their value have put on the market combination ranges
for the use of gas as well as coal. The gas companies, who furnish
the fuel, send out demonstrators upon request who teach their use.

An electric range is desirable where electricity is inexpensive or
cost need not be considered.

A fireless cooker has many devotees. It is especially adapted to use
in conjunction with a gas range for foods that require long, slow
cooking.

HOW TO BUILD A FIRE

Before starting to build a fire, free the grate from ashes. To do this,
put on covers, close front and back dampers, and open
oven-damper; turn grate, and ashes will fall into the ash receiver.
If these rules are not followed, ashes will fly over the room. Turn
grate back into place, remove the covers over fire-box, and cover
grate with pieces of paper (twisted in centre and left loose at the
ends). Cover paper with small sticks, or pieces of pine wood, being
sure that the wood reaches the ends of fire-box, and so arranged
that it will admit air. Over pine wood arrange hard wood then
sprinkle with two shovelfuls of coal. Put on covers, open closed
dampers, strike a match, sufficient friction is formed to burn the
phosphorus, this in turn lights the sulphur, and the sulphur the
wood, then apply the lighted match under the grate, and you have a
fire.

Now blacken the stove. Begin at front of range, and work towards
the back; as the iron heats, a good polish may be obtained. When
the wood is thoroughly kindled, add more coal. A blue flame will
soon appear, which is the gas (CO) in the coal burning to carbon
dioxide (CO2), when the blue flame changes to a white flame;
then the oven-damper should be closed. In a few moments the
front damper may be nearly closed, leaving space to admit
sufficient oxygen to feed the fire. It is sometimes forgotten that
oxygen is necessary to keep a fire burning. As soon as the coal is
well ignited, half close the chimney-damper, unless the draft be
very poor.

Never allow the fire-box to be more than three-fourths filled.
When full, the draft is checked, a larger amount of fuel is
consumed, and much heat is lost. This is a point that should be
impressed on the mind of the cook.

Ashes must be removed and sifted daily; pick over and save good
coals, which are known as cinders, throwing out useless pieces,
known as clinkers.

If a fire is used constantly during the day, replenish coal
frequently, but in small quantities. If for any length of time the fire
is not needed, open check, the dampers being closed; when again
wanted for use, close check, open front damper, and with a poker
rake out ashes from under fire, and wait for fire to burn brightly
before adding new coal.

Coal when red hot has parted with most of its heat. Some refuse to
believe this, and insist upon keeping dampers open until most of
the heat has escaped into the chimney.

To keep a fire over night, remove the ashes from under the fire,
put on enough coal to fill the box, close the dampers, and lift the
back covers enough to admit air. This is better than lifting the
covers over the fire-box and prevents poisonous gases entering the
room.

WAYS OF COOKING

The principal ways of cooking are boiling, broiling, stewing,
roasting, baking, frying, sauteing, braising, and fricasseeing.

Boiling is cooking in boiling water. Solid food so cooked is called
boiled food, though literally this expression is incorrect. Examples:
boiled eggs, potatoes, mutton, etc.

Water boils at 212 degrees F. (sea level), and simmers at 185
degrees F. Slowly boiling water has the same temperature as
rapidly boiling water, consequently is able to do the same work, a
fact often forgotten by the cook, who is too apt "to wood" the fire
that water may boil vigorously.

Watery vapor and steam pass off from boiling water. Steam is
invisible; watery vapor is visible, and is often miscalled steam.
Cooking utensils commonly used permit the escape of watery
vapor and steam; thereby much heat is lost if food is cooked in
rapidly boiling water.

Water is boiled for two purposes: first, cooking of itself to destroy
organic impurities; second, for cooking foods. Boiling water
toughens and hardens albumen in eggs; toughens fibrin and
dissolves tissues in meat; bursts starch-grains and softens cellulose
in cereals and vegetables. Milk should never be allowed to boil. At
boiling temperature (214 degrees F.) the casein is slightly
hardened, and the fat is rendered more difficult of digestion. Milk
heated over boiling water, as in a double boiler, is called scalded
milk, and reaches a temperature of 196 degrees F. When foods are
cooked over hot water the process is called steaming.

Stewing is cooking in a small amount of hot water for a long time
at low temperature; it is the most economical way of cooking
meats, as all nutriment is retained, and the ordinary way of
cooking cheaper cuts. Thus fibre and connective tissues are
softened, and the whole is made tender and palatable.

Broiling is cooking over or in front of a clear fire. The food to be
cooked is usually placed in a greased broiler or on a gridiron held
near the coals, turned often at first to sear the outside, thus
preventing escape of inner juices, afterwards turned occasionally.
Tender meats and fish may be cooked in this way. The flavor
obtained by broiling is particularly fine; there is, however, a
greater loss of weight in this than in any other way of cooking, as
the food thus cooked is exposed to free circulation of air. When
coal is not used, or a fire is not in condition for broiling, a plan for
pan broiling has been adopted. This is done by placing food to be
cooked in a hissing hot frying-pan, turning often as in broiling.

Roasting is cooking before a clear fire, with a reflector to
concentrate the heat. Heat is applied in the same way as for
broiling, the difference being that the meat for roasting is placed
on a spit and allowed to revolve, thicker pieces alway being
employed. Tin-kitchens are now but seldom used. Meats cooked in
a range oven, though really baked, are said to be roasted. Meats so
cooked are pleasing to the sight and agreeable to the palate,
although, according to Edward Atkinson, not so easily digested as
when cooked at a lower temperature in the Aladdin oven.

Baking is cooking in a range oven.

Frying is cooking by means of immersion in deep fat raised to a
temperature of 350 degrees to 400 degrees F. For frying purposes
olive oil, lard, beef drippings, cottolene, coto suet, and cocoanut
butter are used. A combination of two-thirds lard and one-third
beef suet (tried out and clarified) is better than lard alone.
Cottolene, coto suet, and cocoanut butter are economical,
inasmuch as they may be heated to a high temperature without
discoloring, therefore may be used for a larger number of fryings.
Cod fat obtained from beef is often used by chefs for frying.

Great care should be taken in frying that fat is of the right
temperature; otherwise food so cooked will absorb fat.

Nearly all foods which do not contain eggs are dipped in flour or
crumbs, egg, and crumbs, before frying. The intense heat of fat
hardens the albumen, thus forming a coating which prevents food
from "soaking fat."

When meat or fish is to be fried, it should be kept in a warm room
for some time previous to cooking, and wiped as dry as possible. If
cold, it decreases the temperature of the fat to such extent that a
coating is not formed quickly enough to prevent fat from
penetrating the food. The ebullition of fat is due to water found in
food to be cooked.

Great care must be taken that too much is not put into the fat at
one time, not only because it lowers the temperature of the fat, but
because it causes it to bubble and go over the sides of the kettle. It
is not fat that boils, but water which fat has received from food.

All fried food on removal from fat should be drained on brown
paper.

Rules for Testing Fat for Frying. 1. When the fat begins to smoke,
drop in an inch cube of bread from soft part of loaf, and if in forty
seconds it is golden brown, the fat is then of right temperature for
frying any cooked mixture.

2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for
bread to brown.

Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat; new fat should be
used for batter and dough mixtures, potatoes, and fishballs; after
these, fish, meat, and croquettes. Fat should be frequently clarified.

To Clarify Fat. Melt fat, add raw potato cut in quarter-inch slices,
and allow fat to heat gradually; when fat ceases to bubble and
potatoes are well browned, strain through double cheesecloth,
placed over wire strainer, into a pan. The potato absorbs any odors
or gases, and collects to itself some of the sediment, remainder
settling to bottom of kettle.

When small amount of fat is to be clarified, add to cold fat boiling
water, stir vigorously, and set aside to cool; the fat will form a
cake on top, which may be easily removed; on bottom of the cake
will be found sediment, which may be readily scraped off with a
knife.

Remnants of fat, either cooked or uncooked, should be saved and
tried out, and when necessary clarified.

Fat from beef, poultry, chicken, and pork, may be used for
shortening or frying purposes; fat from mutton and smoked meats
may be used for making hard and soft soap; fat removed from soup
stock, the water in which corned beef has been cooked, and
drippings from roast beef, may be tried out, clarified, and used for
shortening or frying purposes.

To Try out Fat. Cut in small pieces and melt in top of a double
boiler; in this way it will require less watching than if placed in
kettle on the back of range. Leaf lard is tried out in the same way;
in cutting the leaf, remove membrane. After straining lard, that
which remains may be salted, pressed, and eaten as a relish, and is
called scraps.

Sauteing is frying in a small quantity of fat. Food so cooked is
much more difficult of digestion than when fried in deep fat; it is
impossible to cook in this way without the food absorbing fat. A
frying-pan or griddle is used; the food is cooked on one side, then
turned, and cooked on the other.

Braising is stewing and baking (meat). Meat to be braised is
frequently first sauted to prevent escape of much juice in the
gravy. The meat is placed in a pan with a small quantity of stock or
water, vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, and union) cut in pieces,
salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. The pan should have a tight-fitting
cover. Meat so prepared should be cooked in an oven at low
uniform temperature for a long time. This is an economical way of
cooking, and the only way besides stewing or boiling of making a
large piece of tough meat palatable and digestible.

Fricasseeing is sauteing and serving with a sauce. Tender meat is
fricasseed without previous cooking; less tender meat requires
cooking in hot water before fricasseeing. Although veal is obtained
from a young creature, it requires long cooking; it is usually
sauted, and then cooked in a sauce at low temperature for a long
time.

VARIOUS WAYS OF PREPARING FOOD FOR COOKING

Egging and Crumbing. Use for crumbing dried bread crumbs
which have been rolled and sifted, or soft stale bread broken in
pieces and forced through a colander. An ingenious machine on
the market, "The Bread Crumber," does this work. Egg used for
crumbing should be broken into a shallow plate and beaten with a
silver fork to blend yolk and white; dilute each egg with two
tablespoons water. The crumbs should be taken on a board; food to
be fried should be first rolled in crumbs (care being taken that all
parts are covered with crumbs), then dipped in egg mixture (equal
care being taken to cover all parts), then rolled in crumbs again;
after the last crumbing remove food to a place on the board where
there are no crumbs, and shake off some of the outer ones which
make coating too thick. A broad-bladed knife with short handle the
Teller knife is the most convenient utensil for lifting food to be
crumbed from egg mixture. Small scallops, oysters, and crabs are
more easily crumbed by putting crumbs and fish in paper and
shaking paper until the fish is covered with crumbs. The object of
first crumbing is to dry the surface that egg may cling to it; and
where a thin coating is desired flour is often used in place of
crumbs.

Larding is introducing small pieces of fat salt pork or bacon
through the surface of uncooked meat. The flavor of lean and dry
meat is much improved by larding; tenderloin of beef (fillet),
grouse, partridge, pigeon, and liver are often prepared in this way.
Pig pork being firm, is best for larding. Pork should be kept in a
cold place that it may be well chilled. Remove rind and use the
part of pork which lies between rind and vein. With sharp knife
(which is sure to make a clean cut) remove slices a little less than
one-fourth inch thick; cut the slices into strips a little less than
one-fourth inch wide; these strips should be two and one-fourth
inches long, and are called lardoons. Lardoons for small birds
quail, for example should be cut smaller and not quite so long. To
lard, insert one end of lardoon into larding-needle, hold needle
firmly, and with pointed end take up a stitch one-third inch deep
and three-fourths inch wide; draw needle through, care being taken
that lardoon is left in meat and its ends project to equal lengths.
Arrange lardoons in parallel rows, one inch apart, stitches in the
alternate rows being directly underneath each other. Lard the upper
surface of cuts of meat with the grain, never across it. In birds,
insert lardoons at right angles to breast-bone on either side. When
large lardoons are forced through meat from surface to surface, the
process is called daubing. Example: Beef a la mode. Thin slices of
fat salt pork placed over meat may be substituted for larding, but
flavor is not the same as when pork is drawn through flesh, and the
dish is far less sightly.

Boning is removing bones from meat or fish, leaving the flesh
nearly in its original shape. For boning, a small sharp knife with
pointed blade is essential. Legs of mutton and veal and loins of
beef may be ordered boned at market, no extra charge being made.

Whoever wishes to learn how to bone should first be taught boning
of a small bird; when this is accomplished, larger birds, chickens,
and turkeys may easily be done, the processes varying but little. In
large birds tendons are drawn from legs, and the wings are left on
and boned.

How to Bone a Bird

In buying birds for boning, select those which have been fresh
killed, dry picked, and not drawn. Singe, remove pinfeathers, head,
and feet, and cut off wings close to body in small birds. Lay bird
on a board, breast down.

Begin at neck and with sharp knife cut through the skin the entire
length of body. Scrape the flesh from backbone until end of one
shoulder-blade is found; scrape flesh from shoulder-blade and
continue around wing-joint, cutting through tendinous portions
which are encountered; then bone other side. Scrape skin from
backbone the entire length of body, working across the ribs. Free
wishbone and collar-bones, at same time removing crop and
windpipe; continue down breastbone, particular care being taken
not to break the skin as it lies very near bone, or to cut the delicate
membranes which enclose entrails. Scrape flesh from second
joints and drumsticks, laying it back and drawing off as a glove
may be drawn from the hand. Withdraw carcass and put flesh back
in its original shape. In large birds where wings are boned, scrape
flesh to middle joint, where bone should be broken, leaving bone
at tip end to assist in preserving shape.

How to Measure

Correct measurements are absolutely necessary to insure the best
results. Good judgment, with experience, has taught some to
measure by sight; but the majority need definite guides.

Tin, granite-ware, and glass measuring-cups, divided in quarters or
thirds, holding one half-pint, and tea and table spoons of regulation
sizes, which may be bought at any store where kitchen furnishings
are sold, and a ease knife, are essentials for correct measurement.
Mixing-spoons, which are little larger than tablespoons, should not
be con-founded with the latter.

Measuring Ingredients. Flour, meal, powdered and confectioners'
sugar, and soda should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and
baking powder, from standing in boxes, settle, therefore should be
stirred to lighten; salt frequently lumps, and these lumps should be
broken. A cupful is measured level. To measure a cupful, put in
the ingredient by spoonfuls or from a scoop, round slightly, and
level with a case knife, care being taken not to shake the cup. A
tablespoonful is measured level. A teaspoonful is measured level.

To measure tea or table spoonfuls, dip the spoon in the ingredient,
fill, lift, and level with a knife, the sharp edge of knife being
toward tip of spoon. Divide with knife lengthwise of spoon, for a
half-spoonful; divide halves crosswise for quarters, and quarters
crosswise for eighths. Less than one-eighth of a teaspoonful is
considered a few grains.

Measuring Liquids. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will hold.

A tea or table spoonful is all the spoon will hold.

Measuring Butter, Lard, etc. To measure butter, lard, and other
solid fats, pack solidly into cup or spoon, and level with a knife.

When dry ingredients, liquids, and fats are called for in the same
recipe, measure in the order given, thereby using but one cup.

How to Combine Ingredients

Next to measuring comes care in combining, a fact not always
recognized by the inexperienced. Three ways are considered,
stirring, beating, and cutting and folding.

To stir, mix by using circular motion, widening the circles until all
is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily employed in all
cookery, alone or in combination with beating.

To beat, turn ingredient or ingredients over and over, continually
bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the utensil
used for beating to be constantly brought in contact with bottom of
the dish and throughout the mixture.

To cut and fold, introduce one ingredient into another ingredient or
mixture by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated vertical
downward motion, known as cutting; and a turning over and over
of mixture, allowing bowl of spoon each time to come in contact
with bottom of dish, is called folding. These repeated motions are
alternated until thorough blending is accomplished.

By stirring, ingredients are mixed; by beating, a large amount of
air is inclosed; by cutting and folding, air already introduced is
prevented from escaping.

Ways of Preserving

1. By Freezing. Foods which spoil readily are frozen for
transportation, and must be kept packed in ice until used.
Examples: Fish and poultry.

2. By Refrigeration. Foods so preserved are kept in cold storage.
The cooling is accomplished by means of ice, or by a machine
where compressed gas is cooled and then permitted to expand.
Examples: meat, milk, butter, eggs, etc.

3. By Canning. Which is preserving in air-tight glass jars, or tin
cans hermetically sealed. When fruit is canned, sugar is usually
added.

4. By Sugar. Examples: fruit-juices and condensed milk.

5. By Exclusion of Air. Foods are preserved by exclusion of air in
other ways than canning. Examples: grapes in bran, eggs in lime
water, etc.

6. By Drying. Drying consists in evaporation of nearly all moisture,
and is generally combined with salting, except in vegetables and
fruits.

7. By Evaporation. There are examples where considerable
moisture remains, though much is driven off. Example: beef
extract.

8. By Salting, There are two kinds of salting, dry, and corning or
salting in brine. Examples: salt codfish, beef, pork, tripe, etc.

9. By Smoking Some foods, after being salted, are hung in a closed
room for several hours, where hickory wood is allowed to smother.
Examples: ham, beef, and fish.

10. By Pickling. Vinegar, to which salt is added, and sometimes
sugar and spices, is scalded; and cucumbers, onions, and various
kinds of fruit are allowed to remain in it.

11. By Oil. Examples: sardines, anchovies, etc.

12. By Antiseptics. The least wholesome way is by &pound;lie use
of antiseptics. Borax and salicylic acid, when employed, should be
used sparingly.

TABLE OF MEASURES AND WEIGHTS

2 cups butter (packed solidly)      =1 pound
4 cups flour (pastry)                     =1 pound
2 cups granulated sugar                =1 pound
22/3 cups powdered sugar            =1 pound
31/2 cups confectioners' sugar      =1 pound
22/3 cups brown sugar                  =1 pound
22/3 cups oatmeal                         =1 pound
43/4 cups rolled oats                     =1 pound
22/3 cups granulated corn meal    =1 pound
41/3 cups rye meal                        =1 pound
17/8 cups rice                                =1 pound
41/2 cups Graham flour                =1 pound
37/8 cups entire wheat flour         =1 pound
41/3 cups coffee                            =1 pound
2 cups finely chopped meat           =1 pound
9 large eggs                                    =1 pound
1 square Baker's chocolate             =1 ounce
1/3 cup almonds blanched and 
chopped                                          =1 ounce
A few grains is less than one-eighth teaspoon.
3 teaspoons                                     =1 tablespoon
16 tablespoons                                =1 cup
2 tablespoons butter                        =1 ounce
4 tablespoons flour                         =1 ounce

TIME-TABLES FOR COOKING

Boiling
                                                          
ARTICLES
TIME

Hours
Minutes

Coffee                                             1 to 3
Eggs, soft cooked                           6 to 8
Eggs, hard cooked                          35 to 45
Mutton, leg                                     2 to 3
Ham, weight 12 to 14 lbs.              4 to 5
Corned Beef or Tongue                  3 to 4
Turkey, weight 9 lbs.                      2 to 3
Fowl, weight 4 to 5 lbs.                  2 to 3
Chicken, weight 3 lbs.                    1 to 11/4 
Lobster                                            25 to 30
Cod and Haddock, weight 
3 to 5 lbs                                         20 to 30
Halibut, thick piece, weight 
2 to 3 lbs                                         30 
Bluefish and Bass, weight 
4 to 5 lbs                                         40 to 45
Salmon, weight 2 to 3 lbs               30 to 35
Small Fish                                       6 to 10
Potatoes, white                               20 to 30
Potatoes, sweet                               15 to 25
Asparagus                                       20 to 30
Peas                                                20 to 60
String Beans                                   1 to 21/2 
Lima and other Shell Beans           1 to 11/4 
Beets, young                                   45
Beets, old                                        3 to 4
Cabbage                                          35 to 60
Oyster Plant                                    45 to 60
Turnips                                           30 to 45
Onions                                            45 to 60
Parsnips                                          30 to 45
Spinach                                           25 to 30
Green Corn                                     12 to 20
Cauliflower                                     20 to 25
Brussels Sprouts                             15 to 20
Tomatoes, stewed                           15 to 20
Rice                                                 20 to 25
Macaroni                                         20 to 30

Broiling                                           

Steak, one inch thick                       4 to 6         
Steak, one and   inches thick        8 to 10
Lamb or Mutton Chops                   6 to 8
Lamb or Mutton Chops in 
paper cases                                      10
Quails or Squabs                              8
Quails or Squabs in paper cases      10 to 12
Chickens                                          20
Shad, Bluefish, and Whitefish         15 to 20
Slices, of Fish, Halibut, Salmon, 
and Swordfish                                  12 to 15
Small, thin Fish                                5 to 8
Liver and Tripe                                4 to 5

Baking

Bread (white loaf)                           45 to 60
Bread (Graham loaf)                       35 to 45
Bread (sticks)                                  10 to 15
Biscuits or Rolls (raised)                 12 to 20
Biscuits (baking-powder)                12 to 15
Gems                                                25 to 30
Muffins (raised)                               30
Muffins (baking-powder)                20 to 25
Corn Cake (thin)                              15 to 20
Corn Cake (thick)                            30 to 35
Gingerbread                                     20 to 30
Cookies                                            6 to 10
Sponge Cake                                    45 to 60
Cake (layer)                                     20 to 30
Cake (loaf)                                       40 to 60
Cake (pound)                                   11/4 to 11/2 
Cake (fruit)                                      11/4 to 2
Cake (wedding)                               3 or steam 2 hours and               
                                                         bake11/2 
Baked batter puddings                     35 to 45

Bread pudding
Tapioca or Rice Pudding
Rice Pudding (poor man's)               2 to 3
Indian Pudding                                 2 to 3
Plum Pudding                                   2 to 3
Custard Pudding                               30 to 45
Custard (baked in cups)                    20 to 25
Pies                                                    30 to 50
Tarts                                                  5 to 20
Patties                                               20 to 25
Vol-au-vent                                       50 to 60
Cheese Straws                                   8 to 10
Scalloped Oysters                              25 to 30
Scalloped dishes of 
cooked mixtures                                12 to 15
Baked Beans                                      6 to 8
Braised Beef                                       31/2 to 41/2 
Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, 
weight 5 lbs                                        1
Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, 
weight 10 lbs                                      1  30
Beef, sirloin or rib well done, 
weight 5 lbs                                        1  20
Beef, sirloin or rib, well done, 
weight 10 lbs                                      1  50
Beef, rump, rare, weight 10 lbs          1  35
Beef, rump, well done, 
weight 10 lbs                                      1  55
Beef, (fillet)                                        20 to 30
Mutton (saddle)                                  11/4 to 11/2 
Lamb (leg)                                          11/4 to 13/4 
Lamb (forequarter)                             1 to 11/4 
Lamb (chops) in paper cases              15 to 30
Veal (leg)                                            31/2 to 4
Veal (loin)                                          2 to 3
Pork (chine or sparerib)                     3 to 31/2 
Chicken, weight 3 to 4 lbs                 1 to 11/2 
Turkey, weight 9 lbs                          21/2 to 3
Goose, weight 9 lbs                           2
Duck (domestic)                                1 to 11/4 
Duck (wild)                                        20 to 30
Grouse                                                25 to 30
Partridge                                             45 to 50
Pigeons (potted)                                 2
Fish (thick), weight 3 to 4 lbs.           45 to 60
Fish (small)                                        20 to 30

Frying

Muffins, Fritters, and Doughnuts       3 to 5
Croquettes and Fishballs                    
Potatoes, raw                                       4 to 8
Breaded Chops                                    5 to 8
Fillets of Fish                                       4 to 6
Smelts, Trout, and other small Fish     3 to 5

NOTE. Length of time for cooking fish and meat does not depend
so much on the number of pounds to be cooked as the extent of
surface exposed to the heat.

USE OF RECIPES

Dishes prepared from my recipes are intended for the most part to
serve six persons.

Chapter III. BEVERAGES.

A BEVERAGE is any drink. Water is the beverage provided for
man by Nature. Water is an essential to life. All beverages contain
a large percentage of water, therefore their uses should be
considered: 
     1.   To quench thirst.
     2.   To introduce water into the circulatory system.
     3.   To regulate body temperature.
     4.   To assist in carrying off waste.
     5.   To nourish.
     6.   To stimulate the nervous system and various
organs.
     7.   For medicinal purposes

Freshly boiled water should be used for making hot beverages;
freshly drawn water for making cold beverages.

TEA

Tea is used by more than one-half the human race; and, although
the United States is not a tea-drinking country, one and one-half
pounds are consumed per capita per annum.

All tea is grown from one species of shrub, Thea, the leaves of
which constitute the tea of commerce. Climate, elevation, soil,
cultivation, and care in picking and curing all go to make up the
differences. First-quality tea is made from young, whole leaves.
Two kinds of tea are considered:

Black tea, made from leaves which have been allowed to ferment
before curing.

Green tea, made from unfermented leaves artificially colored.

The best black tea comes from India and Ceylon. Some familiar
brands are Oolong, Formosa, English Breakfast, Orange Pekoe,
and Flowery Pekoe. The last two named, often employed at the
"five o'clock tea," command high prices; they are made from the
youngest leaves. Orange Pekoe is scented with orange leaves. The
best green tea comes from Japan. Some familiar brands are Hyson,
Japan, and Gunpowder.

From analysis, it has been found that tea is rich in proteid, but
taken as an infusion acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient.
The nutriment is gained from sugar and milk served with it. The
stimulating property of tea is due to the alkaloid, theine, together
with an essential oil; it contains an astringent, tannin. Black tea
contains less theine, essential oil, and tannin than green tea. The
tannic acid, developed from the tannin by infusion, injures the
coating of the stomach.

Although tea is not a substitute for food, it appears so for a
considerable period of time, as its stimulating effect is immediate.
It is certain that less food is required where much tea is taken, for
by its use there is less wear of the tissues, consequently need of
repair. When taken to excess, it so acts on the nervous system as to
produce sleeplessness or insomnia, and finally makes a complete
wreck of its victim. Taken in moderation, it acts as a mild
stimulant, and ingests a considerable amount of water into the
system; it heats the body in winter, and cools the body in summer.
Children should never be allowed to drink tea, and it had better be
avoided by the young, while it may be indulged in by the aged, as
it proves a valuable stimulant as the functional activities of the
stomach become weakened.

Freshly boiled water should be used for making tea. Boiled,
because below the boiling-point the stimulating property, theine,
would not be extracted. Freshly boiled, because long cooking
renders it flat and insipid to taste on account of escape of its
atmospheric gases. Tea should always be infused, never boiled.
Long steeping destroys the delicate flavor by developing a larger
amount of tannic acid.

 How to Make Tea

3 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water

Scald an earthern or china teapot.

Put in tea, and pour on boiling water. Let stand on back of range or
in a warm place five minutes. Strain and serve immediately, with
or without sugar and milk. Avoid second steeping of leaves with
addition of a few fresh ones. If this is done, so large an amount of
tannin is extracted that various ills are apt to follow.

 Five o'Clock Tea

When tea is made in dining or drawing room, a "Five o'Clock
Tea-kettle" (Samovar), and tea-ball or teapot are used.

Russian Tea

Follow recipe for making tea. Russian Tea may be served hot or
cold, but always without milk. A thin slice of lemon, from which
seeds have been removed, or a few drops of lemon-juice, is
allowed for each cup. Sugar is added according to taste. In Russia
a preserved strawberry to each cup is considered an improvement.
We imitate our Russian friends by garnishing with a candied
cherry.

De John's Tea

Follow recipe for making tea and serve hot, allowing three whole
cloves to each cup. Sugar is added according to taste.

Iced Tea

4 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water

Follow recipe for making tea. Strain into glasses one-third full of
cracked ice. Sweeten to taste, and allow one slice lemon to each
glass tea. The flavor is much finer by chilling the infusion quickly.

Wellesley Tea
Make same as Iced Tea, having three crushed mint leaves in each
glass into which the hot infusion is strained.

COFFEE
The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in all
tropical countries. It belongs to the genus Coffea, of which there
are about twenty-two species. The seeds of berries of coffee-trees
constitute the coffee of commerce. Each berry contains two seeds,
with exception of maleberry, which is a single round seed. In their
natural state they are almost tasteless; therefore color, shape, and
size determine value. Formerly, coffee was cured by exposure to
the sun; but on account of warm climate and sudden rainfalls,
coffee was often injured. By the new method coffee is washed, and
then dried by steam heat.

In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from six to
eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed six feet in
height. Banana-trees are often grown in coffee plantations,
advantage being taken of their outspreading leaves, which protect
coffee-trees from direct rays of the sun. Brazil produces about
two-thirds the coffee used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are
also coffee centres.

Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In process of
roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen per cent in
weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the delightful aroma and
flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. Mocha commands a higher
price, owing to certain acidity and sparkle, which alone is not
desirable; but when combined with Java, in proportion of two parts
Java to one part Mocha, the coffee best suited to average taste is
made. Some people prefer Maleberry Java; so especial care is
taken to have maleberries separated, that they may be sold for
higher price. Old Government Java has deservedly gained a good
reputation, as it is carefully inspected, and its sale controlled by
Dutch government. Strange as it may seem to the consumer, all
coffee sold as Java does not come from the island of Java. Any
coffee, wherever grown, having same characteristics and flavor, is
sold as Java. The same is true of other kinds of coffee.

The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid caffeine,
together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains an astringent.
Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, weight for weight,
tea contains about twice as much theine as coffee contains
caffeine. The smaller proportion of tea used accounts for the
difference. A cup of coffee with breakfast, and a cup of tea with
supper, serve as a mild stimulant for an adult, and form a valuable
food adjunct, but should never be found in the dietary of a child or
dyspeptic. Coffee taken in moderation quickens action of the heart,
acts directly upon the nervous system, and assists gastric digestion.
Fatigue of body and mind are much lessened by moderate use of
coffee; severe exposure to cold can be better endured by the coffee
drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved more valuable than
alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of soldiers.
Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic poisoning. Tea
and coffee are much more readily absorbed when taken on an
empty stomach; therefore this should be avoided except when used
for medicinal purposes. Coffee must be taken in moderation; its
excessive use means palpitation of the heart, tremor, insomnia, and
nervous prostration.

Coffee is often adulterated with chiccory, beans, peas, and various
cereals, which are colored, roasted, and ground. By many, a small
amount of chiccory is considered an improvement, owing to the
bitter principle and volatile oil which it contains. Chiccory is void
of caffeine. The addition of chiccory may be detected by adding
cold water to supposed coffee; if chiccory is present, the liquid
will be quickly discolored, and chiccory will sink; pure coffee will
float.

Buying of Coffee. Coffee should be bought for family use in small
quantities, freshly roasted and ground; or, if one has a coffee-mill,
it may be ground at home as needed. After being ground, unless
kept air tight, it quickly deteriorates. If not bought in air-tight cans,
with tight-fitting cover, or glass jar, it should be emptied into
canister as soon as brought from grocer's.

Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, or
decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is
preferred, and is more economical for the consumer. Coffee is
ground fine, coarse, and medium; and the grinding depends on the
way in which it is to be made. For filtered coffee have it finely
ground; for boiled, coarse or medium.

Filtered Coffee
(French or Percolated)
1 cup coffee (finely ground)
6 cups boiling water

Various kinds of coffee-pots are on the market for making filtered
coffee. They all contain a strainer to hold coffee without allowing
grounds to mix with infusion. Some have additional vessel to hold
boiling water, upon which coffee-pot may rest. Place coffee in
strainer, strainer in coffee-pot, and pot on the range. Add gradually
boiling water, and allow it to filter. Cover between additions of
water. If desired stronger, re-filter. Serve at once with cut sugar
and cream.

Put sugar and cream in cup before hot coffee. There will be
perceptible difference if cream is added last. If cream is not
obtainable, scalded milk may be substituted, or part milk and part
cream may be used, if a diluted cup of coffee is desired. Coffee
percolators are preferably used when coffee is made at table.

Boiled Coffee

1 cup coffee
1 cup cold water
1 egg
6 cups boiling water

Scald granite-ware coffee-pot. Wash egg, break, and beat slightly.
Dilute with one-half the cold water, add crushed shell, and mix
with coffee. Turn into coffee-pot, pour on boiling water, and stir
thoroughly. Place on front of range, and boil three minutes. If not
boiled, coffee is cloudy; if boiled too long, too much tannic acid is
developed. The spout of pot should be covered or stuffed with soft
paper to prevent escape of fragrant aroma. Stir and pour some in a
cup to be sure that spout is free from grounds. Return to coffee-pot
and repeat. Add remaining cold water, which perfects clearing.
Cold water being heavier than hot water sinks to the bottom,
carrying grounds with it. Place on back of range for ten minutes,
where coffee will not boil. Serve at once. If any is left over, drain
from grounds, and reserve for making of jelly or other dessert.

Egg-shells may be saved and used for clearing coffee. Three
egg-shells are sufficient to effect clearing where one cup of ground
coffee is used. The shell performs no office in clearing except for
the albumen which clings to it. One-fourth cup cold water, salt
fish-skin, washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, is used for same
purpose.

Coffee made with an egg has a rich flavor which egg alone can
give. Where strict economy is necessary, if great care is taken, egg
may be omitted. Coffee so made should be served from range, as
much motion causes it to become roiled.

Tin is an undesirable material for a coffee-pot, as tannic acid acts
on such metal and is apt to form a poisonous compound.

When coffee and scalded milk are served in equal proportions, it is
called Cafe au lait. Coffee served with whipped cream is called
Vienna Coffee.

To Make a Small Pot of Coffee. Mix one cup ground coffee with
one egg, slightly beaten, and crushed shell. To one-third of this
amount add one-third cup cold water. Turn into a scalded
coffee-pot, add one pint boiling water, and boil three minutes. Let
stand on back of range ten minutes; serve. Keep remaining coffee
and egg closely covered, in a cool place, to use two successive
mornings.

To Make Coffee for One. Allow two tablespoons ground coffee to
one cup cold water. Add coffee to cold water, cover closely, and
let stand over night. In the morning bring to a boiling-point. If
carefully poured, a clear cup of coffee may be served.

After-Dinner Coffee

(Black Coffee, or Cafe Noir) For after-dinner coffee use twice the
quantity of coffee, or half the amount of liquid, given in previous
recipes. Filtered coffee is often preferred where milk or cream is
not used, as is always the case with black coffee. Serve in
after-dinner coffee cups, with or without cut sugar.

Coffee retards gastric digestion; but where the stomach has been
overtaxed by a hearty meal, cafe noir may prove beneficial, so
great are its stimulating effects.

KOLA

The preparations on the market made from the kola-nut have much
the same effect upon the system as coffee and chocolate, inasmuch
as they contain caffeine and theobromine; they are also valuable
for their diastase and a milk-digesting ferment.

COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

The cacao-tree (Theobroma cacao) is native to Mexico. Although
successfully cultivated between the twentieth parallels of latitude,
its industry is chiefly confined to Mexico, South America, and the
West Indies. Cocoa and chocolate are both prepared from seeds of
the cocoa bean. The bean pod is from seven to ten inches long, and
three to four and one-half inches in diameter. Each pod contains
from twenty to forty seeds, embedded in mucilaginous material.
Cocoa beans are dried previous to importation. Like coffee, they
need roasting to develop flavor. After roasting, outer covering of
bean is removed; this covering makes what is known as cocoa
shells, which have little nutritive value. The beans are broken and
sold as cocoa nibs.

The various preparations of cocoa on the market are made from
the ground cocoa nibs, from which, by means of hydraulic
pressure, a large amount of fat is expressed, leaving a solid cake.
This in turn is pulverized and mixed with sugar, and frequently a
small amount of corn-starch or arrowroot. To some preparations
cinnamon or vanilla is added. Broma contains both arrowroot and
cinnamon.

Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs, but contains a much larger
proportion of fat than cocoa preparations. Bitter, sweet, or flavored
chocolate is always sold in cakes.

The fat obtained from cocoa bean is cocoa butter, which gives
cocoa its principal nutrient.

Cocoa and chocolate differ from tea and coffee inasmuch as they
contain nutriment as well as stimulant. Theobromine, the active
principle, is almost identical with theine and caffeine in its
composition and effects.

Many people who abstain from the use of tea and coffee find
cocoa indispensable. Not only is it valuable for its own nutriment,
but for the large amount of milk added to it. Cocoa may be well
placed in the dietary of a child after his third year, while chocolate
should be avoided as a beverage, but may be given as a confection.
Invalids and those of weak digestion can take cocoa where
chocolate would prove too rich.

Cocoa Shells

1 cup cocoa shells
6 cups boiling water

Boil shells and water three hours; as water boils away it will be
necessary to add more. Strain, and serve with milk and sugar. By
adding one-third cup cocoa nibs, a much more satisfactory drink is
obtained.

Cracked Cocoa
1/2 cup cracked cocoa
3 pints boiling water

Boil cracked cocoa and water two hours. Strain, and serve with
milk and sugar. If cocoa is pounded in a mortar and soaked over
night in three pints water, it will require but one hour's boiling.

Breakfast Cocoa

11/2 tablespoons prepared cocoa
2 cups boiling water
2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups milk
Few grains salt

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, dilute with one-half cup
boiling water to make smooth paste, add remaining water, and boil
five minutes; turn into scalded milk and beat two minutes, using
egg-beater, when froth will form, preventing scum, which is so
unsightly; this is known as milling.

Reception Cocoa

3 tablespoons cocoa
A few grains salt
1/4 cup sugar
4 cups milk
3/4 cup boiling water

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, adding enough boiling
water to make a smooth paste; add remaining water and boil five
minutes; pour into scalded milk. Beat two minutes, using
egg-beater.

Brandy Cocoa

3 tablespoons cocoa
11/2 cups boiling water
1/4 cup sugar
4 cups milk
3 teaspoons cooking brandy

Prepare as Reception Cocoa, and add brandy before milling.

Chocolate I
11/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
Few grains salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
3 cups milk

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot
water, add sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water; when smooth,
place on range and boil five minutes; add to scalded milk, mill,
and serve in chocolate cups with whipped cream. One and one-half
ounces vanilla chocolate may be substituted for unsweetened
chocolate; being sweetened, less sugar is required.

Chocolate II

Prepare same as Chocolate I., substituting one can evaporated
cream or condensed milk diluted with two cups boiling water in
place of three cups milk. If sweetened condensed milk is used,
omit sugar.

Chocolate III

2 ozs. sweetened chocolate
Few grains salt
4 cups milk
Whipped cream

Scald milk, add chocolate, and stir until chocolate is melted. Bring
to boiling-point, mill, and serve in chocolate cups with whipped
cream sweetened and flavored.

FRUIT BEVERAGES

Lemonade

1 cup sugar
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 pint water

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water twelve minutes; add fruit
juice, cool, and dilute with ice-water to suit individual tastes.
Lemon syrup may be bottled and kept on hand to use as needed.

Pineapple Lemonade

1 pint water
1 quart ice-water
1 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple
Juice 3 lemons

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add pineapple
and lemon juice, cool, strain, and add ice-water.

Orangeade
Make syrup as for Lemonade. Sweeten orange juice with syrup,
and dilute by pouring over crushed ice.

Mint Julep

1 quart water
1 cup orange juice
2 cups sugar
Juice 8 lemons
1 pint claret wine
11/2 cups boiling water
1 cup strawberry juice
12 sprigs fresh mint

Make syrup by boiling quart of water and sugar twenty minutes.
Separate mint in pieces, add to the boiling water, cover, and let
stand in warm place five minutes, strain, and add to syrup; add
fruit juices, and cool. Pour into punch-bowl, add claret, and chill
with a large piece of ice; dilute with water. Garnish with fresh
mint leaves and whole strawberries.

Claret Punch

1 quart cold water
Few shavings lemon rind
1/2 cup raisins
11/3 cups orange juice
2 cups sugar
1/3 cup lemon juice
2 inch piece stick cinnamon
1 pint claret wine

Put raisins in cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and boil
twenty minutes; strain, add sugar, cinnamon, lemon rind, and boil
five minutes. Add fruit juice, cool, strain, pour in claret, and dilute
with ice-water.

Fruit Punch I

1 quart cold water
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 cups sugar
2 cups chopped pineapple
1 cup orange juice

Boil water, sugar, and pineapple twenty minutes; add fruit juice,
cool, strain, and dilute with ice-water.

Fruit Punch II

1 cup water
2 cups strawberry syrup
2 cups sugar
Juice 5 lemons
1 cup tea infusion
Juice 5 oranges
1 quart Apollinaris
1 can grated pineapple
1 cup Maraschino cherries

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add tea,
strawberry syrup, lemon juice, orange juice, and pineapple; let
stand thirty minutes, strain, and add ice-water to make one and
one-half gallons of liquid. Add cherries and Apollinaris. Serve in
punch-bowl, with large piece of ice. This quantity will serve fifty.

Fruit Punch III

1 cup sugar
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 cup hot tea infusion
1 pint ginger ale
3/4 cup orange juice
1 pint Apollinaris
Few slices orange

Pour tea over sugar, and as soon as sugar is dissolved add fruit
juices. Strain into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice, and just
before serving add ale, Apollinaris, and slices of orange. For tea
infusion use two teaspoons tea and one and one-fourth cups
boiling water.

Fruit Punch IV

9 oranges
11/2 cups tea infusion
6 lemons
11/4 cups sugar
1 cup grated pineapple
1 cup hot water
1 cup raspberry syrup
1 quart Apollinaris

Mix juice of oranges and lemons with pineapple, raspberry syrup,
and tea; then add a syrup made by boiling sugar and water fifteen
minutes. Turn in punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. Chill
thoroughly, and just before serving add Apollinaris.

Ginger Punch

1 quart cold water
1/2 lb. Canton ginger
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup lemon juice

Chop ginger, add to water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit
juice, cool, strain, and dilute with crushed ice.

Champagne Punch

1 cup water
2 tablespoons Orange Curacoa
2 cups sugar
Juice 2 lemons
1 quart California champagne
2 cups tea infusion
4 tablespoons brandy
Ice
2 tablespoons Medford rum
1 quart soda water

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix
champagne, brandy, rum, Curacoa, lemon juice, and tea infusion.
Sweeten to taste with syrup and pour into punch-bowl over a large
piece of ice. Just before serving add soda water.

Club Punch

1 cup water
1 quart Vichy
2 cups sugar
3 sliced oranges
1 quart Burgundy
1/2 can pineapple
1 cup rum
Juice 2 lemons
1/3 cup brandy
1 cup tea infusion
1/3 cup Benedictine
Ice.

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix
remaining ingredients, except ice, sweeten to taste with syrup, and
pour into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice.

Unfermented Grape Juice

10 lbs. grapes
1 cup water
3 lbs. sugar.

Put grapes and water in granite stew-pan. Heat until stones and
pulp separate; then strain through jelly-bag, add sugar, heat to
boiling-point, and bottle. This will make one gallon. When served,
it should be diluted one-half with water.

Claret Cup

1 quart claret wine
2 tablespoons brandy
1/2 cup Curacoa
Sugar
1 quart Apollinaris
Mint leaves
1/3 cup orange juice
Cucumber rind
12 strawberries

Mix ingredients, except Apollinaris, using enough sugar to
sweeten to taste. Stand on ice to chill, and add chilled Apollinaris
just before serving.

Sauterne Cup

1 quart soda water
2 tablespoons Orange Curacoa
2 cups Sauterne wine
1/2 cup sugar (scant)
Rind 1/2 orange
Mint leaves
Rind 1/2 lemon
Few slices orange
12 strawberries

Add Curacoa to rind of fruit and sugar; cover, and let stand two
hours. Add Sauterne, strain, and stand on ice to chill. Add chilled
soda water, mint leaves, slices of orange, and strawberries. The
success of cups depends upon the addition of charged water just
before serving.

Cider Punch

1 quart new or bottled cider
Sugar
3/4 cup lemon juice
1 quart Apollinaris
Ice

Mix cider and lemon juice, and sweeten to taste. Strain into punch
bowl over a large piece of ice. Just before serving add Apollinaris.

Chapter IV. BREAD AND BREAD MAKING.

BREAD is the most important article of food, and history tells of
its use thousands of years before the Christian era. Many processes
have been employed in making and baking; and as a result, from
the first flat cake has come the perfect loaf. The study of bread
making is of no slight importance, and deserves more attention
than it receives.

Considering its great value, it seems unnecessary and wrong to
find poor bread on the table; and would that our standard might be
raised as high as that of our friends across the water ! Who does
not appreciate the loaf produced by the French baker, who has
worked months to learn the art of bread making?

Bread is made from flour of wheat, or other cereals, by addition of
water, salt, and a ferment. Wheat flour is best adapted for bread
making, as it contains gluten in the right proportion to make the
spongy loaf. But for its slight deficiency in fat, wheat bread is a
perfect food; hence arose the custom of spreading it with butter. It
should be remembered, in speaking of wheat bread as perfect food,
that it must be made of flour rich in gluten. Next to wheat flour
ranks rye in importance for bread making; but it is best used in
combination with wheat, for alone it makes heavy, sticky, moist
bread. Corn also needs to be used in combination with wheat for
bread making, for if used alone the bread will be crumbly.

The miller, in order to produce flour which will make the white
loaf (so sightly to many), in the process of grinding wheat has been
forced to remove the inner bran coats, so rich in mineral matter,
and much of the gluten intimately connected with them.

To understand better the details of bread making, wheat, from
which bread is principally made, should be considered.

A grain of wheat consists of (1) an outer covering or husk, which
is always removed before milling; (2) bran coats, which contain
mineral matter; (3) gluten, the proteid matter and fat; and (4)
starch, the centre and largest part of the grain. Wheat is
distinguished as white and soft, or red and hard. The former is
known as winter wheat, having been sown in the fall, and living
through the winter; the latter is known as spring wheat, having
been sown in the spring. From winter wheat, pastry flour,
sometimes called St. Louis, is made; from spring wheat, bread
flour, also called Haxall. St. Louis flour takes its name from the
old process of grinding; Haxall, from the name of the inventor of
the new process. All flours are now milled by the same process.
For difference in composition of wheat flours, consult table in
Chapter VI on Cereals.

Wheat is milled for converting into flour by processes producing
essentially the same results, all requiring cleansing, grinding, and
bolting. Entire wheat flour has only the outer husk removed, the
remainder of the kernel being finely ground. Graham flour,
confounded with entire wheat, is too often found to be an inferior
flour, mixed with coarse bran.

Grinding is accomplished by one of four systems: (1) low milling;
(2) Hungarian system, or high milling; (3) roller milling; and (4)
by a machine known as distintegrator.

In low milling process, grooved stones are employed for grinding.
The stones are enclosed in a metal case, and provision is made
within case for passage of air to prevent wheat from becoming
overheated. The lower stone being permanently fixed, the upper
stone being so balanced above it that grooves may exactly
correspond, when upper stone rotates, sharp edges of grooves meet
each other, and operate like a pair of scissors. By this process flour
is made ready for bolting by one grinding.

In high milling process, grooved stones are employed, but are kept
so far apart that at first the wheat is only bruised, and a series of
grindings and siftings is necessary. This process is applicable only
to the hardest wheats, and is partially supplanted by roller-milling.

In roller-milling, wheat is subjected to action of a pair of steel or
chilled-iron horizontal rollers, having toothed surfaces. They
revolve in opposite directions, at different rates of speed, and have
a cutting action.

Porcelain rollers, with rough surfaces, are sometimes employed. In
this system, grinding is accomplished by cutting rather than
crushing.

"The disintegrator consists of a pair of circular metal disks, set
face to face, studded with circles of projecting bars so arranged
that circles of bars on one disk alternate with those of the other.
The disks are mounted on the same centre, and so closely set to
one another that projecting bars of one disk come quite close to
plane surface of the other. They are inclosed within an external
casing. The disks are caused to rotate in opposite directions with
great rapidity, and the grain is almost instantaneously reduced to a
powder."

After grinding comes bolting, by which process the different
grades of flour are obtained. The ground wheat is placed in
octagonal cylinders (covered with silk or linen bolting-cloth of
different degrees of fineness), which are allowed to rotate, thus
forcing the wheat through. The flour from first siftings contains
the largest percentage of gluten.

Flour is branded under different names to suit manufacturer or
dealer. In consequence, the same wheat, milled by the same
process, makes flour which is sold under different names.

In buying flour, whether bread or pastry, select the best kept by
your grocer. Some of the well-known brands of bread flour are
King Arthur, Swansdown, Bridal Veil, Columbia, Washburn's
Extra, and Pillsbury's Best; of pastry, Best St. Louis. Bread flour
should be used in all cases where yeast is called for, with few
exceptions; in other cases, pastry flour. The difference between
bread and pastry flour may be readily determined. Take bread flour
in the hand, close hand tightly, then open, and flour will not keep
in shape; if allowed to pass through fingers it will feel slightly
granular. Take pastry flour in the hand, close hand tightly, open,
and flour will be in shape, having impression of the lines of the
hand, and feeling soft and velvety to touch. Flour should always be
sifted before measuring.

Entire wheat flour differs from ordinary flour inasmuch as it
contains all the gluten found in wheat, the outer husk of kernels
only being removed, the remainder ground to different degrees of
fineness and left unbolted. Such flours are now quite generally
sold by all first class grocers. Included in this class are the
Arlington Wheat Meal and the Old Grist Mill Entire Wheat Flour.

Gluten, the proteid of wheat, is a gray, tough, elastic substance,
insoluble in water. On account of its great power of expansion, it
holds the gas developed in bread dough by fermentation, which
otherwise would escape.

Yeast

Yeast is a microscopic plant of fungous growth, and is the lowest
form of vegetable life. It consists of spores, or germs, found
floating in air, and belongs to a family of which there are many
species. These spores grow by budding and division, and multiply
very rapidly under favorable conditions, and produce fermentation.

Fermentation is the process by which, under influence of air,
warmth, moisture, and some ferment, sugar (or dextrose, starch
converted into sugar) is changed into alcohol (C2H5HO) and
carbon dioxide (CO2). The product of all fermentation is the same.
Three kinds are considered, alcoholic, acetic, and lactic. Where
bread dough is allowed to ferment by addition of yeast, the
fermentation is alcoholic; where alcoholic fermentation continues
too long, acetic fermentation sets in, which is a continuation of
alcoholic. Lactic fermentation is fermentation which takes place
when milk sours.

Liquid, dry, or compressed yeast may be used for raising bread.
The compressed yeast cakes done up in tinfoil have long proved
satisfactory, and are now almost universally used, having replaced
the home-made liquid yeast. Never use a yeast cake unless
perfectly fresh, which may be determined by its light color and
absence of dark streaks.

The yeast plant is killed at 212 degrees F.; life is suspended, but
not entirely destroyed, 32 degrees F. The temperature best suited
for its growth is from 65 degrees F. The most favorable conditions
for the growth of yeast are a warm, moist, sweet, nitrogenous soil.
These must be especially considered in bread making.

Bread Making

Fermented bread is made by mixing to a dough, flour, with a
definite quantity of water, milk, or water and milk, salt, and a
ferment. Sugar is usually added to hasten fermentation. Dought is
them kneaded that the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated,
covered, and allowed to rise in a temperature of 68 degrees F.,
until dough has doubled its bulk. This change has been caused by
action of the ferment, which attacks some of the starch in flour,
and changes it to sugar, and sugar in turn to alcohol and carbon
dioxide, thus lightening the whole mass. Dough is then kneaded a
second time to break bubbles and distribute evenly the carbon
dioxide. It is shaped in loaves, put in greased bread pans (they
being half filled), covered, allowed to rise in temperature same as
for first rising, to double its bulk. If risen too long, it will be full of
large holes; if not risen long enough, it will be heavy and soggy. If
pans containing loaves are put in too hot a place while rising, a
heavy streak will be found near bottom of loaf.

How to Shape Loaves and Biscuits. To shape bread dough in
loaves, divide dough in parts, each part large enough for a loaf,
knead until smooth, and if possible avoid seams in under part of
loaf. If baked in brick pan, place two loaved in one pan, brushed
between with a little melted butter. If baked in long shallow pan,
when well kneaded, roll with both hands to lengthen, care being
taken that it is smooth and of uniform thickness. Where long
loaves are baked on sheets, shape and roll loosely in a towel
sprinkled with corn meal for last rising.

To shape bread dough in biscuits, pull or cut off as many small
pieces (having them of uniform size) as there are to be biscuits.
Flour palms of hands slightly; take up each piece and shape
separately, lifting, with thumb and first two fingers of right hand,
and placing in palm of left hand, constantly moving dough round
and round, while folding towards the centre; when smooth, turn it
over and roll between palms of hands. Place in greased pans near
together, brushed between with a little melted butter, which will
cause biscuits to separate easily after baking. For finger rolls,
shape biscuits and roll with one hand on part of board where there
is no flour, until of desired length, care being taken to make
smooth, of uniform size, and round at ends.

Biscuits may be shaped in a great variety of ways, but they should
always be small. Large biscuits, though equally good, never tempt
one by their daintiness.

Bread is often brushed over with milk or butter before baking, to
make a darker crust.

Where bread is allowed to rise over night, a small piece of yeast
cake must be used; one-fourth yeast cake to one pint liquid is
sufficient, one-third yeast cake to one quart liquid. Bread mixed
and baked during the day requires a large quantity of yeast; one
yeast cake, or sometimes even more, to one pint of liquid. Bread
dough mixed with a large quantity of yeast should be watched
during rising, and cut down as soon as mixture doubles its bulk. If
proper care is taken, the bread will be found most satisfactory,
having neither "yeasty" nor sour taste.

Fermented bread was formerly raised by means of leaven.

Baking of Bread

Bread is baked; (1) To kill ferment, (2) to make soluble the starch,
(3) to drive off alcohol and carbon dioxide, and (4) to form brown
crust of pleasant flavor. Bread should be baked in a hot oven. If the
oven be too hot the crust will brown quickly before the heat has
reached the centre, and prevent further rising; loaf should continue
rising for first fifteen minutes of baking, when it should begin to
brown, and continue browning for the next twenty minutes. The
last fifteen minutes it should finish baking, when the heat may be
reduced. When bread is done, it will not cling to sides of pan, and
may be easily removed. Biscuits require more heat than loaf bread,
should continue rising the first five minutes, and begin to brown in
eight minutes. Experience is the best guide for testing temperature
of oven. Various oven themometers have been made, but none
have proved practical. Bread may be brushed over with melted
butter, three minutes before removal from oven, if a more tender
crust is desired.

Care of Bread after Baking

Remove loaves at once from pans, and place side down on a wire
bread or cake cooler. If a crisp crust is desired, allow bread to cool
without covering; if soft crust, cover with a towel during cooling.
When cool, put in tin box or stone jar, and cover closely.

Never keep bread wrapped in cloth, as the cloth will absorb
moisture and transmit an unpleasant taste to bread. Bread tins or
jars should be washed and scalded twice a week in winter, and
every other day in summer; otherwise bread is apt to mould. As
there are so many ways of using small and stale pieces of bread,
care should be taken that none is wasted.

Unfermented bread is raised without a ferment, the carbon dioxide
being produced by the use of soda (alkaline salt) and an acid.
Soda, employed in combination with cream of tartar, for raising
mixtures, in proportion of one-third soda to two-thirds cream of
tartar, was formerly used to a great extent, but has been generally
superseded by baking powder.

Soda bicarbonate (NaHCO3) is manufactured from sodium
chloride (NaCl), common salt or cryolite.

Baking powder is composed of soda and cream of tartar in
definite, correct proportions, mixed with small quantity of dry
material (flour or cornstarch) to keep action from taking place. If
found to contain alum or ammonia, it is impure. In using baking
powder, allow two teaspoons baking powder to each cup of flour,
when eggs are not used; to egg mixtures allow one and one-half
teaspoons baking powder. When a recipe calls for soda and cream
of tartar, in substituting baking powder use double amount of
cream of tartar given.

Soda and cream of tartar, or baking powder mixtures, are made
light by liberation of gas in mixture; the gas in soda is set free by
the acid in cream of tartar; in order to accomplish this, moisture
and heat are both required. As soon as moisture is added to baking
powder mixtures, the gas will begin to escape; hence the necessity
of baking as soon as possible. If baking powder only is used for
raising, put mixture to be cooked in a hot oven.

Cream of tartar (HKC4O6H4) is obtained from argols found
adhering to bottom and sides of wine casks, which are ninety per
cent cream of tartar. The argols are ground and dissolved in
boiling water, coloring matter removed by filtering through animal
charcoal, and by a process of recrystallization the cream of tartar
of commerce is obtained.

The acid found in molasses, sour milk, and lemon juice will
liberate gas in soda, but the action is much quicker than when
cream of tartar is used.

Fermented and unfermented breads are raised to be made light and
porous, that they may be easily acted upon by the digestive
ferments. Some mixtures are made light by beating sufficiently to
enclose a large amount of air, and when baked in a hot oven air is
forced to expand.

Aerated bread is made light by carbon dioxide forced into dough
under pressure. The carbon dioxide is generated from sulphuric
acid and lime. Aerated bread is of close texture, and has a flavor
peculiar to itself. It is a product of the baker's skill, but has found
little favor except in few localities.

Water Bread

2 cups boiling water
21/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1 tablespoon lard
1/4 cup lukewarm water
2 tablespoon sugar
6 cups sifted flour

Put butter, lard, sugar, and salt in bread raiser, or large bowl
without a lip; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, add
dissolved yeast cake and five cups of flour; then stir until
thoroughly mixed, using a knife or mixing-spoon. Add remaining
flour, mix, and turn on a floured board, leaving a clean bowl;
knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch, and bubbles may
be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to knead
quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be forgotten.
Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the purpose, and
board or tin cover; let rise over night in temperature of 65 degrees
F. In morning cut down : this is accomplished by cutting through
and turning over dough several times with a case knife, and checks
fermentation for a short time; dough may be again raised, and
recut down if it is not convenient to shape into loaves or biscuits
after first cutting. When properly cared for, bread need never sour.
Toss on board slightly floured, knead, shape into loaves or
biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover,
let rise again to double its bulk, and bake in hot oven. (See Baking
of Bread and Time-Table for Baking.) This recipe will make a
double loaf of bread and pan of biscuit. Cottolene, crisco, or beef
drippings may be used for shortening, one-third less being
required. Bread shortened with butter has a good flavor, but is not
as white as when lard is used.

Milk and Water Bread

1 cup scalded milk
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1 cup boiling water
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1 tablespoon lard
6 cups sifted flour, or one cup white flour and enough entire wheat
flour to knead
1 tablespoon butter
21/2 teaspoon salt

Prepare and bake as Water Bread. When entire wheat flour is used
add three tablespoons molasses. Bread may be mixed, raised, and
baked in five hours, by using one yeast cake. Bread made in this
way has proved most satisfactory. It is usually mixed in the
morning, and the cook is able to watch the dough while rising and
keep it at uniform temperature. It is often desirable to place bowl
containing dough in pan of water, keeping water at uniform
temperature of from 95 degrees to 100 degrees F. Cooks who have
not proved themselves satisfactory bread makers are successful
when employing this method.

Entire Wheat Bread

2 cups scalded milk
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup sugar or
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1/3 cup molasses
1/4 cup lukewarm water
42/3 cups coarse entire wheat flour

Add sweetening and salt to milk; cool, and when lukewarm add
dissolved yeast cake and flour; beat well, cover, and let rise to
double its bulk. Again beat, and turn into greased bread pans,
having pans one-half full; let rise, and bake. Entire Wheat Bread
should not quite double its bulk during last rising. This mixture
may be baked in gem pans.

German Caraway Bread

Follow recipe for Milk and Water Bread , using rye flour in place
of entire wheat flour, and one tablespoon sugar for sweetening.
After first rising while kneading add one-third tablespoon caraway
seed. Shape, let rise again, and bake in a loaf.

Entire Wheat and White Flour Bread

Use same ingredients as for Entire Wheat Bread, with exception of
flour. For flour use three and one-fourth cups entire wheat and two
and three-fourths cups white flour. The dough should be slightly
kneaded, and if handled quickly will not stick to board. Loaves and
biscuits should be shaped with hands instead of pouring into pans,
as in Entire Wheat Bread.

Graham Bread

2 cups hot liquid (water, or milk and water)
1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1/3 cup molasses
3 cups flour
21/2 teaspoons salt
3 cups Graham flour

Prepare and bake as Entire Wheat Bread. The bran remaining in
sieve after sifting Graham flour should be discarded. If used for
muffins, use two and one-half cups liquid.

Third Bread

2 cups lukewarm water
1 cup rye flour
1 yeast cake
1 cup granulated corn meal
1/2 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup molasses
3 cups flour

Dissolve yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix
thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again, and bake as Entire
Wheat Bread.

Rolled Oats Bread

2 cups boiling water
1/2 yeast cake dissolved in
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/2 tablespoon salt
1 cup rolled oats
1 tablespoon butter
5 cups flour

Add boiling water to oats and let stand one hour; add molasses,
salt, butter, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let rise, beat
thoroughly, turn into buttered bread pans, let rise again, and bake.
To make shaping of biscuits easy, take up mixture by spoonfuls,
drop into plate of flour, and have palms of hands well covered
with flour before attempting to shape, or drop from spoon into
buttered muffin tins.

Rye Biscuit

1 cup boiling water
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup rye flakes
1 yeast cake dissolved in
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup lukewarm water
1/3 cup molasses
Flour

Make same as Rolled Oats Bread.

Rye Bread

1 cup scalded milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup boiling water
1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1 tablespoon lard
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1 tablespoon butter
3 cups flour             
1/3 cup brown sugar
Rye meal

To milk and water add lard, butter, sugar, and salt; when
lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and flour, beat thoroughly,
cover, and let rise until light. Add rye meal until dough is stiff
enough to knead; knead thoroughly, let rise, shape in loaves, let
rise again, and bake.

Date Bread

Use recipe for Health Food Muffins . After the first rising, while
kneading, add two-thirds cup each of English walnut meats cut in
small pieces, and dates stoned and cut in pieces. Shape in a loaf,
let rise in pan, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. This
bread is well adapted for sandwiches.

Boston Brown Bread

1 cup rye meal
3/4 tablespoon soda
1 cup granulated corn meal
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup Graham flour
3/4 cup molasses
2 cups sour milk, or 13/4 cups sweet milk or water

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well
mixed, turn into a well-buttered mould, and steam three and
one-half hours. The cover should be buttered before being placed
on mould, and then tied down with string; otherwise the bread in
rising might force off cover. Mould should never be filled more
than two-thirds full. A melon-mould or one-pound baking-powder
boxes make the most attractive-shaped loaves, but a five-pound
lard pail answers the purpose. For steaming, place mould on a
trivet in kettle containing boiling water, allowing water to come
half-way up around mould, cover closely, and steam, adding, as 
needed, more boiling water.

New England Brown Bread

11/2 cups stale bread
11/2 Rye meal
31/4 cups cold water
11/2 Granulated corn meal
3/4 cup molasses
11/2 Graham flour
11/2 teaspoons salt
3 teaspoons soda

Soak bread in two cups of the water over night. In the morning rub
through colander, add molasses, dry ingredients mixed and sifted,
and remaining water. Stir until well mixed, fill buttered one-pound
baking-powder boxes two-thirds full, cover, and steam two hours.

Indian Bread

11/2 cups Graham flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup Indian meal
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 tablespoon soda
12/3 cups milk

Mix and steam same as Boston Brown Bread.

Steamed Graham Bread

3 cups Arlington meal
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup flour
1 cup molasses (scant)
31/2 teaspoons soda
21/2 cups sour milk

Mix same as Boston Brown Bread and steam four hours. This
bread may often be eaten when bread containing corn meal could
not be digested.

Parker House Rolls

2 cups scalded milk
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons butter
1 yeast cake dissolved in
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm water

Flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved
yeast cake and three cups of flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let
rise until light; cut down, and add enough flour to knead (it will
take about two and one-half cups). Let rise again, toss on slightly
floured board, knead, pat, and roll out to one-third inch thickness.
Shape with biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Dip the handle of a
case knife in flour, and with it make a crease through the middle of
each piece; brush over one-half of each piece with melted butter,
fold, and press edges together. Place in greased pan, one inch
apart, cover, let rise, and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen
minutes. As rolls rise they will part slightly, and if hastened in
rising are apt to lose their shape.

Parker House Rolls may be shaped by cutting or tearing off small
pieces of dough, and shaping round like a biscuit; place in rows on
floured board, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. With handle of
large wooden spoon, or toy rolling-pin, roll through centre of each
biscuit, brush edge of lower halves with melted butter, fold, press
lightly, place in buttered pan one inch apart, cover, let rise, and
bake.

Salad or Dinner Rolls

Use same ingredients as for Parker House Rolls, allowing
one-fourth cup butter. Shape in small biscuits, place in rows on a
floured board, cover with cloth and pan, and let rise until light and
well puffed. Flour handle of wooden spoon and make a deep
crease in middle of each biscuit, take up, and press edges together.
Place closely in buttered pan brushing with butter between
biscuits, cover, let rise, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in hot
oven. From this same mixture crescents, braids, twists, bow-knots,
clover leaves, and other fancy shapes may be made.

Sticks

1 cup scalded milk
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup lukewarm water
11/2 tablespoons sugar
White 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
33/4 cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved
yeast cake, white of egg well beaten, and flour. Knead, let rise,
shape, let rise again, and start baking in a hot oven, reducing heat,
that sticks may be crisp and dry. To shape sticks, first shape as
small biscuits, roll on board (where there is no flour) with hands
until eight inches in length, keeping of uniform size and rounded
ends, which may be done by bringing fingers close to, but not over,
ends of sticks.

Salad Sticks

Follow recipe for Sticks. Let rise, and add salt to dough, allowing
two teaspoons to each cup of dough. Shape in small sticks, let rise
again, sprinkle with salt, and bake in a slow oven. If preferred
glazed, brush over with egg yolk slightly beaten and diluted with
one-half tablespoon cold water.

Swedish Rolls

Use recipe for Salad Rolls. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness,
spread with butter, and sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar mixed
with one-third teaspoon cinnamon, one-third cup stoned raisins
finely chopped, and two tablespoons chopped citron; roll up like
jelly roll, and cut in three-fourths inch pieces. Place pieces in pan
close together, flat side down. Again let rise, and bake in a hot
oven. When rolls are taken from oven, brush over with white of
egg slightly beaten, diluted with one-half tablespoon water; return
to oven to dry egg, and thus glaze top.

Sweet French Rolls

1 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1 egg
1/4 cup lukewarm water
Yolk one egg
Flour
1/8 teaspoon mace
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup melted butter

Scald milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and one and
one-half cups flour; beat well, cover, and let rise until light. Add
sugar, salt, eggs well beaten, mace, and butter, and enough more
flour to knead; knead, let rise again, shape, and bake same as Salad
Rolls, or roll in a long strip to one-fourth inch in thickness, spread
with butter, roll up like jelly roll, and cut in one-inch pieces. Place
pieces in pan close together, flat side down. A few gratings from
the rind of a lemon or one-half teaspoon lemon extract may be
substituted in place of mace.

Luncheon Rolls

1/2 cup scalded milk
2 tablespoons melted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
Few gratings from rind of lemon
1/2 yeast cake dissolved in
2 tablespoons lukewarm water
Flour

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast
cake and three-fourths cup flour. Cover and let rise; then add
butter, egg well beaten, grated rind of lemon, and one and
one-fourth cups flour. Let rise again, roll to one-half inch
thickness, shape with small biscuitcutter, place in buttered pan
close together, let rise again, and bake. These rolls may be ready to
serve in three hours if one and one-half yeast cakes are used.

French Rusks

2 cups scalded milk
Flour
1/4 cup butter
1 egg
1/4 cup sugar
Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
Whites 2 eggs
1 yeast cake dissolved in
3/4 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup lukewarm water
Add butter, sugar, and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm add
dissolved yeast cake and three cups flour. Cover and let rise; add
egg and egg yolks well beaten, and enough flour to knead. Let rise
again, and shape as Parker House Rolls. Before baking, make three
parallel creases on top of each roll. When nearly done, brush over
with whites of eggs beaten slightly, diluted with one tablespoon
cold water and vanilla. Sprinkle with sugar.

Rusks (Zweiback)

1/2 cup scalded milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup melted butter
2 yeast cakes
3 eggs
Flour

Add yeast cakes to milk when lukewarm; then add salt and one
cup flour, and let rise until very light. Add sugar, butter, eggs
unbeaten, and flour enough to handle.

Shape as finger rolls, and place close together on a buttered sheet
in parallel rows, two inches apart; let rise again and bake twenty
minutes. When cold, cut diagonally in one-half inch slices, and
brown evenly in oven.

German Coffee Bread

1 cup scalded milk
1 egg
1/3 cup butter, or butter and lard
1/3 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup raisins stoned and cut in pieces

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved
yeast cake, egg well beaten, flour to make stiff batter, and raisins;
cover, and let rise over night; in morning spread in buttered
dripping-pan one-half inch thick. Cover and let rise again. Before
baking, brush over with beaten egg, and cover with following
mixture : Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-third cup sugar
and one teaspoon cinnamon. When sugar is partially melted, add
three tablespoons flour.

Coffee Cakes (Brioche)

1 cup scalded milk
1/2 cup sugar
4 yolks of eggs
2 yeast cakes
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon extract lemon or
2/3 cup butter
2 pounded cardamon seeds
42/3 cups flour

French Confectioner

Cool milk; when lukewarm, add yeast cakes, and when they are
dissolved add remaining ingredients, and beat thoroughly with
hand ten minutes; let rise six hours. Keep in ice-box over night; in
morning turn on floured board, roll in long rectangular piece
one-fourth inch thick; spread with softened butter, fold from sides
toward centre to make three layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths
inch wide; cover and let rise. Take each piece separately in hands
and twist from ends in opposite directions, coil and bring ends
together at top of cake. Let rise in pans and bake twenty minutes in
a moderate oven; cool and brush over with confectioners' sugar,
moistened with boiling water to spread, and flavored with vanilla.

Coffee Rolls

2 cups milk
1 egg
11/2 yeast cakes
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Butter
1 teaspoon salt
Lard 1/2 cup each
Melted butter
Sugar
Confectioners' sugar
Flour
Vanilla

Scald milk, when lukewarm add yeast cakes, and as soon as
dissolved add three and one-half cups flour. Beat thoroughly,
cover, and let rise; then add butter, lard, sugar, egg unbeaten,
cinnamon, salt, and flour enough to knead. Knead until well
mixed, cover, and let rise. Turn mixture on a floured cloth. Roll
into a long, rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick. Brush over
with melted butter, fold from ends toward centre to make three
layers and cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide. Cover and let
rise. Take each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in
opposite directions, then shape in a coil. Place in buttered pans,
cover, again let rise, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes.
Cool slightly, and brush over with confectioners' sugar moistened
with boiling water and flavored with vanilla.

Swedish Bread

21/2 cups scalded milk
2/3 cup sugar
1 yeast cake
1 egg, well beaten
Flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup melted butter
1 teaspoon almond extract

Add yeast cake to one-half cup milk which has been allowed to
cool until lukewarm; as soon as dissolved add one-half cup flour,
beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise. When light, add remaining
milk and four and one-half cups flour. Stir until thoroughly mixed,
cover, and again let rise; then add remaining ingredients and one
and one-half cups flour. Toss on a floured cloth and knead, using
one-half cup flour, cover, and again let rise. Shape as Swedish Tea
Braid or Tea Ring I or II, and bake.

Swedish Tea Braid. Cut off three pieces of mixture of equal size
and roll, using the hands, in pieces of uniform size; then braid. Put
on a buttered sheet, cover, let rise, brush over with yolk of one egg,
slightly beaten, and diluted with one-half tablespoon cold water,
and sprinkle with finely chopped blanched almonds. Bake in a
moderate oven.

Swedish Tea Ring I. Shape as tea braid, form in shape of ring, and
proceed as with tea braid, having almonds blanched and cut in
slices crosswise.

Swedish Tea Ring II. Take one-third Swedish Bread mixture and
shape, using the hands, in a long roll. Put on an unfloured board
and roll, using a rolling-pin, as thinly as possible. Mixture will
adhere to board but may be easily lifted with a knife. Spread with
melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and chopped blanched almonds
or cinnamon. Roll like a jelly roll, cut a piece from each end and
join ends to form ring. Place on a buttered sheet, and cut with
scissors and shape . Let rise, and proceed as with Tea Ring I.

Dutch Apple Cake

1 cup scalded milk
23/4 cups flour
1/3 cup butter
Melted butter
1/3 cup sugar
5 sour apples
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup 
1 yeast cake
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 eggs
2 tablespoons currants

Mix first four ingredients. When lukewarm add yeast cake, eggs
unbeaten, and flour to make a soft dough. Cover, let rise, beat
thoroughly, and again let rise. Spread in a buttered dripping-pan as
thinly as possible and brush over with melted butter. Pare, cut in
eighths, and remove cores from apples.

Press sharp edges of apples into the dough in parallel rows
lengthwise of pan. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon and
sprinkle with currants. Cover, let rise, and bake in a moderate oven
thirty minutes. Cut in squares and serve hot or cold with whipped
cream sweetened and flavored.

Buns

1 cup scalded milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup raisins stoned and cut in quarters
1/3 cup sugar
1 yeast cake dissolved in
1 teaspoon extract lemon
1/4 cup lukewarm water
Flour, cinnamon
Add one-half sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add
dissolved yeast cake and one and one-half cups flour; cover, and
let rise until light; add butter, remaining sugar, raisins, lemon, and
flour to make a dough; let rise, shape like biscuits, let rise again,
and bake. If wanted glazed, brush over with beaten egg before
baking.

Hot Cross Buns

1 cup scalded milk
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup sugar
3 cups flour
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup raisins stoned and quartered, or
1/2 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1/4 cup currants

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved
yeast cake, cinnamon, flour, and egg well beaten; when thoroughly
mixed, add raisins, cover, and let rise over night. In morning,
shape in forms of large biscuits, place in pan one inch apart, let
rise, brush over with beaten egg, and bake twenty minutes; cool,
and with ornamental frosting make a cross on top of each bun

Raised Muffins

1 cup scalded milk
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup boiling water
1/4 yeast cake
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg
1/4 cup sugar
4 cups flour

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk and water; when lukewarm, add
yeast cake, and when dissolved, egg well beaten, and flour; beat
thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered
muffin rings two-thirds full; let rise until rings are full, and bake
thirty minutes in hot oven.

Grilled Muffins

Put buttered muffin rings on a hot greased griddle. Fill one-half
full with raised muffin mixture, and cook slowly until well risen
and browned underneath; turn muffins and rings and brown the
other side. This is a convenient way of cooking muffins when oven
is not in condition for baking.

Raised Hominy Muffins

1 cup warm cooked hominy
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
1/4 yeast cake
1 cup scalded milk
1/4 cup lukewarm water
3 tablespoons sugar
31/4 cups flour

Mix first five ingredients; when lukewarm add yeast cake,
dissolved in lukewarm water and flour. Cover, and let rise over
night. In the morning cut down, fill buttered gem pans two-thirds
full, let rise, one hour, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless
cooked hominy is rather stiff more flour will be needed.

Raised Rice Muffins

Make same as Raised Hominy Muffins, substituting one cup hot
boiled rice in place of hominy, and adding the whites of two eggs
beaten until stiff.

Raised Oatmeal Muffins

3/4 cup scalded milk
1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup cold cooked oatmeal
21/2 cups flour

Add sugar and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved
yeast cake. Work oatmeal into flour with tips of fingers, and add to
first mixture; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In
morning, fill buttered iron gem pans two-thirds full, let rise on
back of range that pan may gradually heat and mixture rise to fill
pan. Bake in moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes.

Health Food Muffins

1 cup warm wheat mush
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 yeast cake
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup lukewarm water
21/4 cups flour

Mix first four ingredients, add yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm
water, and flour; then knead. Cover, and let rise over night. In the
morning cut down, fill buttered gem pans two-thirds full, again let
rise and bake in a moderate oven. This mixture, when baked in a
loaf, makes a delicious bread.

Squash Biscuits

1/2 cup squash (steamed and sifted)
1/4 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup scalded milk
21/2 cups flour

Add squash, sugar, salt, and butter to milk; when lukewarm, add
dissolved yeast cake and flour; cover, and let rise over night. In
morning shape into biscuits, let rise, and bake.

Imperial Muffins

1 cup scalded milk
13/4 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup corn meal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
1/3 yeast cake dissolved in
1/4 cup lukewarm water

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm add dissolved yeast
cake, and one and one-fourth cups flour. Cover, and let rise until
light, then add corn meal, remaining flour, and butter. Let rise over
night; in the morning fill buttered muffin rings two-thirds full; let
rise until rings are full and bake thirty minutes in hot oven.

Dry Toast

Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Crust may or may not be
removed. Put slices on wire toaster, lock toaster and place over
clear fire to dry, holding some distance from coals; turn and dry
other side. Hold nearer to coals and color a golden brown on each
side. Toast, if piled compactly and allowed to stand, will soon
become moist. Toast may be buttered at table or before sending to
table.

Water Toast

Dip slices of dry toast quickly in boiling salted water, allowing
one-half teaspoon salt to one cup boiling water. Spread slices with
butter, and serve at once.

Milk Toast I

1 pint scalded milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons cold water
21/2 tablespoons bread flour
6 slices dry toast

Add cold water gradually to flour to make a smooth, thin paste.
Add to milk, stirring constantly until thickened, cover, and cook
twenty minutes; then add salt and butter in small pieces. Dip slices
of toast separately in sauce; when soft, remove to serving dish.
Pour remaining sauce over all.

Milk Toast II

Use ingredients given in Milk Toast I, omitting cold water, and
make as Thin White Sauce. Dip toast in sauce.

Brown Bread Milk Toast

Make same as Milk Toast, using slices of toasted brown bread in
place of white bread. Brown bread is better toasted by first drying
slices in oven.


Cream Toast

Substitute cream for milk, and omit butter in recipe for Milk Toast
I or II.

Tomato Cream Toast

11/2 cups stewed and strained tomato
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup scalded cream
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 slices toast

Put butter in saucepan; when melted and bubbling, add flour,
mixed with salt, and stir in gradually tomato, to which soda has
been added, then add cream. Dip slices of toast in sauce. Serve as
soon as made.

German Toast

3 eggs
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
6 slices stale bread

Beat eggs slightly, add salt, sugar, and milk; strain into a shallow
dish. Soak bread in mixture until soft. Cook on a hot, well-greased
griddle; brown on one side, turn and brown other side. Serve for
breakfast or luncheon, or with a sauce for dessert.

Brewis

Break stale bits or slices of brown and white bread in small pieces,
allowing one and one-half cups brown bread to one-half cup white
bread. Butter a hot frying pan, put in bread, and cover with equal
parts milk and water. Cook until soft; add butter and salt to taste.

Bread for Garnishing
Dry toast is often used for garnishing, cut in various shapes.
Always shape before toasting. Cubes of bread, toast points, and
small oblong pieces are most common. Cubes of stale bread, from
which centres are removed, are fried in deep fat and called
crostades; half-inch cubes, browned in butter, or fried in deep fat,
are called crotons.

Uses for Stale Bread

All pieces of bread should be saved and utilized. Large pieces are
best for toast. Soft stale bread, from which crust is removed, when
crumbed, is called stale bread crumbs, or raspings, and is used for
puddings, griddle-cakes, omelets, scalloped dishes, and dipping
food to be fried. Remnants of bread, from which crusts have not
been removed, are dried in oven, rolled, and sifted. These are
called dry bread crumbs, and are useful for crumbing croquettes,
cutlets, fish, meat, etc.

Chapter V. BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES.

Batters, Sponges, and Doughs

BATTER is a mixture of flour and some liquid (usually combined
with other ingredients, as sugar, salt, eggs, etc.), of consistency to
pour easily, or to drop from a spoon.

Batters are termed thin or thick, according to their consistency.

Sponge is a batter to which yeast is added.

Dough differs from batter inasmuch as it is stiff enough to be
handled.

Cream Scones

2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
4 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons sugar
2 eggs
1/3 cup cream

Mix and sift together flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Rub in
butter with tips of fingers; add eggs well beaten (reserving a small
amount of unbeaten white) and cream. Toss on a floured board,
pat, and roll to three fourths inch in thickness. Cut in squares,
brush with reserved white, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a hot
oven fifteen minutes.

Baking Powder Biscuit I

2 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon lard
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup milk and water in equal parts
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter

Mix dry ingredients, and sift twice.

Work in butter and lard with tips of fingers; add gradually the
liquid, mixing with knife to a soft dough. It is impossible to
determine the exact amount of liquid, owing to differences in
flour. Toss on a floured board, pat and roll lightly to one-half inch
in thickness. Shape with a biscuit-cutter. Place on buttered pan,
and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. If baked in too
slow an oven, the gas will escape before it has done its work.

Baking Powder Biscuit II

2 cups bread flour
2 tablespoons butter
5 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix and bake as Baking Powder Biscuit I.

Emergency Biscuit

Use recipe for Baking Powder Biscuit I or II, with the addition of
more milk, that mixture may be dropped from spoon without
spreading. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered pan, one-half inch
apart. Brush over with milk, and bake in hot oven eight minutes.

Fruit Rolls (Pin Wheel Biscuit)

2 cup flour
2/3 cup milk
5 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup stoned raisins (finely chopped)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons citron (finely chopped)
2 tablespoons butter
1/3 teaspoon cinnamon

Mix as Baking Powder Biscuit II. Roll to one-fourth inch
thickness, brush over with melted butter, and sprinkle with fruit,
sugar, and cinnamon. Roll like a jelly roll; cut off pieces
three-fourths inch in thickness. Place on buttered tin, and bake in
hot oven fifteen minutes. Currants may be used in place of raisins
and citron.

Twin Mountain Muffins

1/4 cup butter
1 egg
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups bread flour
5 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter; add sugar and egg well beaten; sift baking
powder with flour, and add to the first mixture, alternating with
milk. Bake in buttered tin gem pans twenty-five minutes.

One Egg Muffins I

31/2 cups flour
11/3 cups milk
6 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons melted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
3 tablespoons sugar

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add gradually milk, egg well beaten,
and melted butter. Bake in buttered gem pans twenty-five minutes.
If iron pans are used they must be previously heated. This recipe
makes thirty muffins. Use half the proportions given and a small
egg, if half the number is required.

One Egg Muffins II

2 cups flour
2 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 egg

Mix and bake as One Egg Muffin I.

Berry Muffins I (without eggs)

2 cups flour
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup milk (scant)
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup berries
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in butter with tips of fingers;
add milk and berries.

Berry Muffins II

1/4 cup butter
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
1 cup milk
22/3 cups flour
1 cup berries

Cream the butter; add gradually sugar and egg well beaten; mix
and sift flour, baking powder, and salt, reserving one-fourth cup
flour to be mixed with berries and added last; the remainder
alternately with milk.

Queen of Muffins

1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup milk (scant)
1/3 cup sugar
11/2 cups flour
1 egg
21/2 teaspoons baking powder

Mix and bake same as Twin Mountain Muffins.

Rice Muffins

21/4 cups flour
1 cup milk
3/4 cup hot cooked rice
1 egg
5 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons melted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix and sift flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; add one-half
milk, egg well beaten, the remainder of the milk mixed with rice,
and beat thoroughly; then add butter. Bake in buttered muffin rings
placed in buttered pan or buttered gem pans.

Oatmeal Muffins

1 cup cooked oatmeal
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups flour
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and bake as Rice Muffins.

Graham Muffins I

11/4 cups Graham flour
1/3 cup molasses
1 cup flour
3/4 teaspoon soda
1 cup sour milk
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk to molasses, and combine
mixtures; then add butter.

Graham Muffins II

1 cup Graham or entire wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
3/4 cup flour
1 egg
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons melted butter
5 teaspoons baking powder.

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, egg well beaten,
and melted butter; bake in hot oven in buttered gem pans
twenty-five minutes.

Rye Muffins I

Make as Graham Muffins II, substituting rye meal for Graham
flour.

Rye Muffins II

11/4 cups rye meal
1/4 cup molasses
11/4 cups flour
11/4 cups milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter
Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II, adding molasses with milk.

Rye Gems

12/3 cups rye flour
1/4 cup molasses
11/3 cups flour
11/4 cups milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons melted butter
Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses, milk, eggs well beaten,
and butter. Bake in hot oven in buttered gem pans twenty-five
minutes.

Corn Meal Gems

1/2 cup corn meal
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon sugar
1 egg

Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II.

Hominy Gems

1/4 cup hominy
1 cup corn meal
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup boiling water
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup scalded milk
2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking powder

Add hominy mixed with salt to boiling water and let stand until
hominy absorbs water. Add scalded milk to corn meal, then add
sugar and butter. Combine mixtures, cool slightly, add yolks of
eggs beaten until thick, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Sift in
baking powder and beat thoroughly. Bake in hot buttered gem
pans.

Berkshire Muffins

1/2 cup corn meal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup flour
2/3 cup scalded milk (scant)
1/2 cup cooked rice
1 egg
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon melted butter
3 teaspoons baking powder

Turn scalded milk on meal, let stand five minutes; add rice, and
flour mixed and sifted with remaining dry ingredients. Add yolk of
egg well beaten, butter, and white of egg beaten stiff and dry.

Golden Corn Cake

1 cup corn meal
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup flour
1 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg
5 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk, egg well beaten, and butter;
bake in shallow buttered pan in hot oven twenty minutes.

Corn Cake (sweetened with Molasses)

1 cup corn meal
1/4 cup molasses
3/4 cup flour
3/4 cup milk
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and bake as Golden Corn Cake, adding molasses to milk.

White Corn Cake

1/4 cup butter
11/4 cups white corn meal
1/2 cup sugar
11/4 cups flour
11/3 cups milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 3 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
Cream the butter; add sugar gradually; add milk, alternating with
dry ingredients, mixed and sifted. Beat thoroughly; add whites of
eggs beaten stiff. Bake in buttered cake pan thirty minutes.

Rich Corn Cake

1 cup corn meal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup white flour
7/8 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add milk, gradually, eggs well
beaten, and butter. Bake in a buttered, shallow pan, in a hot oven.

Susie's Spider Corn Cake

11/4 cups corn meal
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups sour milk
2 eggs
1 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons butter

Mix soda, salt, and corn meal; gradually add eggs well beaten and
milk. Heat frying-pan, grease sides and bottom of pan with butter,
turn in the mixture, place on middle grate in hot oven, and cook
twenty minutes.

White Corn Meal Cake

1 cup scalded milk
1/2 cup white corn meal
1 teaspoon salt

Add salt to corn meal, and pour on gradually milk. Turn into a
buttered shallow pan to the depth of one-fourth inch. Bake in a
moderate oven until crisp. Split and spread with butter.

Pop-overs

1 cup flour
7/8 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon melted butter

Mix salt and flour; add milk gradually, in order to obtain a smooth
batter. Add egg, beaten until light, and butter; beat two minutes,
using egg-beater, turn into hissing hot buttered iron gem pans, and
bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in hot oven. They may be baked
in buttered earthen cups, when the bottom will have a glazed
appearance. Small round iron gem pans are best for Pop-overs.

Graham Pop-overs

2/3 cup entire wheat flour
7/8 cup milk
1/3 cup flour
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon melted butter

Prepare and bake as Pop-overs.

Breakfast Puffs

1 cup flour
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup water

Mix milk and water; add gradually to flour, and beat with
egg-beater until very light. Bake same as Pop-overs.

Fadges

1 cup entire wheat flour
1 cup cold water

Add water gradually to flour, and beat with egg-beater until very
light. Bake same as Pop-overs.

Zante Muffins

1/2 cup butter
2 cups corn meal
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup flour
3 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups milk
5 teaspoons baking powder.
1/2 cup currants

Cream the butter; add sugar, gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk;
then add dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and currants. Bake in
buttered individual tins.

Maryland Biscuit

1 pint flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup lard
Milk and water in equal quantities

Southern Pupil

Mix and sift flour and salt; work in lard with tips of fingers, and
moisten to a stiff dough. Toss on slightly floured board, and beat
with rolling-pin thirty minutes, continually folding over the dough.
Roll one-third inch in thickness, shape with round cutter two
inches in diameter, prick with fork, and place on a buttered tin.
Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

GRIDDLE-CAKES

Sour Milk Griddle-cakes

21/2 cups flour
2 cups sour milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/4 teaspoons soda
1 egg

Mix and sift flour, salt, and soda; add sour milk, and egg well
beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased hot griddle; cook on one
side. When puffed, full of bubbles, and cooked on edges, turn, and
cook other side. Serve with butter and maple syrup.

Sweet Milk Griddle-cakes

3 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
11/2 tablespoons baking powder
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; beat egg, add milk, and pour slowly
on first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and add butter. Cook same as
Sour Milk Griddle-cakes. Begin cooking cakes at once or more
baking powder will be required.

Entire Wheat Griddle-cakes

1/2 cup entire wheat flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1 cup flour
1 egg
3 teaspoons baking powder
11/4 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter

Prepare and cook same as Sweet Milk Griddle-cakes.

Corn Griddle-cakes

2 cups flour
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup corn meal
11/2 cups boiling water
11/2 tablespoons baking powder
11/4 cups milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Add meal to boiling water, and boil five minutes; turn into bowl,
add milk, and remaining dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then the
egg well beaten, and butter. Cook same as other griddle-cakes.

Rice Griddle-cakes I

21/2 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup cold cooked rice
11/2 cups milk
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in rice with tips of fingers; add
egg well beaten, milk, and butter. Cook same as other
griddle-cakes.

Rice Griddle-cakes II

1 cup milk
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup warm boiled rice
Whites 2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter
7/8 cup flour

Pour milk over rice and salt, add yolks of eggs beaten until thick
and lemon color, butter, flour, and fold in whites of eggs beaten
until stiff and dry.

Bread Griddle-cakes

11/2 cups fine stale bread crumbs
2 eggs
11/2 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder

Add milk and butter to crumbs, and soak until crumbs are soft; add
eggs well beaten, then flour, salt, and baking powder mixed and
sifted. Cook same as other griddle-cakes.

Buckwheat Cakes

1/3 cup fine bread crumbs
1/4 yeast cake
2 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
13/4 cups buckwheat flour
1 tablespoon molasses

Pour milk over crumbs, and soak thirty minutes; add salt, yeast
cake dissolved in lukewarm water, and buckwheat to make a batter
thin enough to pour. Let rise over night; in the morning, stir well,
add molasses, one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolved in one-fourth
cup lukewarm water, and cook same as griddle-cakes. Save
enough batter to raise another mixing, instead of using yeast cake;
it will require one-half cup.

Waffles

13/4 cups flour
1 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking powder
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
Whites 2 eggs
1 tablespoon melted butter

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, yolks of eggs
well beaten, butter, and whites of eggs beaten stiff; cook on a
greased hot waffle-iron. Serve with maple syrup.

A waffle-iron should fit closely on range, be well heated on one
side, turned, heated on other side, and thoroughly greased before
iron is filled. In filling, put a tablespoonful of mixture in each
compartment near centre of iron, cover, and mixture will spread to
just fill iron. If sufficiently heated, it should be turned almost as
soon as filled and covered. In using a new iron, special care must
be taken in greasing, or waffles will stick.

Waffles with Boiled Cider

Follow directions for making Waffles. Serve with BOILED
CIDER. Allow twice as much cider as sugar, and let boil until of a
syrup consistency.

Rice Waffles

13/4 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2/3 cup cold cooked rice
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups milk
1 tablespoon melted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in rice with tips of fingers; add
milk, yolk of egg well beaten, butter, and white of egg beaten stiff.
Cook same as Waffles.

Virginia Waffles

11/2 cups boiling water
11/4 tablespoons baking powder
1/2 cup white corn meal
11/2 teaspoons salt
11/2 cups milk
Yolks 2 eggs
3 cups flour
Whites 2 eggs
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons melted butter

Cook meal in boiling water twenty minutes; add milk, dry
ingredients mixed and sifted, yolks of eggs well beaten, butter, and
whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook same as Waffles.

Raised Waffles

13/4 cups milk
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups flour
1 tablespoon butter
Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 yeast cake
Whites 2 eggs

Scald milk; add salt and butter, and when lukewarm, add yeast
cake dissolved in water, and flour. Beat well; let rise over night;
add yolks of eggs well beaten, and whites of eggs beaten stiff.
Cook same as Waffles. By using a whole yeast cake, the mixture
will rise in one and one-half hours.

Fried Drop Cakes
11/3 cups flour
1/3 cup sugar
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk
1/4 teaspoons salt
1 egg
1 teaspoon melted butter

Beat egg until light; add milk, dry ingredients mixed and sifted,
and melted butter. Drop by spoonfuls in hot, new, deep fat; fry
until light brown and cooked through, which must at first be
determined by piercing with a skewer, or breaking apart. Remove
with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper.

Rye Drop Cakes

2/3 cup rye meal
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup flour
2 tablespoons molasses
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, molasses, and
egg well beaten. Cook same as Fried Drop Cakes.

Raised Doughnuts

1 cup milk
1/3 cup butter and lard mixed
1/4 yeast cake
1 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup lukewarm water
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 grated nutmeg
Flour

Scald and cool milk; when lukewarm, add the yeast cake dissolved
in water, salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter; let rise over
night. In morning add shortening melted, sugar, eggs well beaten,
nutmeg, and enough flour to make a stiff dough; let rise again, and
if too soft to handle, add more flour. Toss on floured board, pat,
and roll to three-fourths inch thickness. Shape with cutter, and
work between hands until round. Place on floured board, let rise
one hour, turn, and let rise again; fry in deep fat, and drain on
brown paper. Cool, and roll in powdered sugar.

Doughnuts I

1 cup sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
21/2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 cup milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
Flour to roll

Cream the butter, and add one-half sugar. Beat egg until light, add
remaining sugar, and combine mixtures. Add three and one-half
cups flour, mixed and sifted with baking powder, salt, and spices;
then enough more flour to make dough stiff enough to roll. Toss
one-third of mixture on floured board, knead slightly, pat, and roll
out to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a doughnut cutter, fry
in deep fat, take up on a skewer, and drain on brown paper. Add
trimmings to one-half remaining mixture, roll, shape, and fry as
before; repeat. Doughnuts should come quickly to top of fat,
brown on one side, then be turned to brown on the other; avoid
turning more than once. The fat must be kept at a uniform
temperature. If too cold, doughnuts will absorb fat; if too hot,
doughnuts will brown before sufficiently risen. See rule for testing
fat.

Doughnuts II

4 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 tablespoon butter
13/4 teaspoons soda
1 cup sugar
13/4 teaspoons cream of tartar
1 cup sour milk
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 egg

Put flour in shallow pan; add salt, soda, cream of tartar, and spices.
Work in butter with tips of fingers; add sugar, egg well beaten, and
sour milk. Stir thoroughly, and toss on board thickly dredged with
flour; knead slightly, using more flour if necessary. Pat and roll out
to one-fourth inch thickness; shape, fry, and drain. Sour-milk
doughnuts may be turned as soon as they come to top of fat, and
frequently afterwards.

Doughnuts III

2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons soda
4 eggs
2 teaspoons salt
11/3 cups sour milk
2 teaspoons baking powder
4 tablespoons melted butter
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Flour

Mix ingredients in order given; shape, fry, and drain.

Crullers

1/4 cup butter
4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Yolks 2 eggs
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 2 eggs
1 cup milk
Powdered sugar and cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten,
and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Mix flour, nutmeg, and baking
powder; add alternately with milk to first mixture; toss on floured
board, roll thin, and cut in pieces three inches long by two inches
wide; make four one-inch parallel gashes crosswise at equal
intervals. Take up by running finger in and out of gashes, and
lower into deep fat. Fry same as Doughnuts I.

Strawberry Short Cake I

2 cups flour
2 teaspoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter

Mix dry ingredients, sift twice, work in butter with tips of fingers,
and add milk gradually. Toss on floured board, divide in two parts.
Pat, roll out, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven in buttered
Washington pie or round layer cake tins. Split, and spread with
butter. Sweeten strawberries to taste, place on back of range until
warmed, crush slightly, and put between and on top of Short
Cakes; cover top with Cream Sauce I.

Strawberry Short Cake II

2 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup milk

Mix same as Strawberry Short Cake I. Toss and roll on floured
board. Put in round buttered tin, and shape with back of hand to fit
pan.

Rich Strawberry Short Cake

2 cups flour
Few grains nutmeg
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup milk

Mix dry ingredients and sift twice, work in shortening with tips of
fingers, add egg well beaten, and milk. Bake same as Strawberry
Short Cake II. Split cake and spread under layer with Cream Sauce
II. Cover with strawberries which have been sprinkled with
powdered sugar; again spread with sauce, and cover with upper
layer.

Fruit Short Cake
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup flour
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix
and sift flour, baking powder, and salt, adding alternately with
milk to first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and bake in a buttered
round tin. Cool, spread thickly with sweetened fruit, and cover
with Cream Sauce I or II. Fresh strawberries, peaches, apricots,
raspberries, or canned quince or pineapple may be used. When
canned goods are used, drain fruit from syrup and cut in pieces.
Dilute cream for Cream Sauce with fruit syrup in place of milk.

Any shortcake mixture may be made for individual service by
shaping with a large biscuit cutter; or mixture may be baked in a
shallow cake pan, centre removed and filled with fruit, and pieces
baked separately to introduce to represent handles.

Chapter VI. CEREALS.

CEREALS (cultivated grasses) rank first among vegetable foods;
being of hardy growth and easy cultivation, they are more widely
diffused over the globe than any of the flowering plants. They
include wheat, oats, rye, barley, maize (Indian corn), and rice;
some authorities place buckwheat among them. Wheat probably is
the most largely consumed; next to wheat, comes rice.

TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION

Proteid
Fat
Starch
Mineral matter
Water

Oatmeal
15.6
7.3
68.0
1.9
7.2
Corn meal
8.9
2.2
75.1
0.9
12.9

Wheat flour (spring)
11.8
1.1
75.0
0.5
11.6

Wheat flour (winter)
10.4
1.0
75.6
0.5
12.5

Entire wheat flour
14.2
1.9
70.6
1.2
12.1

Graham flour
13.7
2.2
70.3
2.0
11.8

Pearl barley
9.3
1.0
77.6
1.3
10.8

Rye meal
7.1
0.9
78.5
0.8
12.7

Rice
7.8
0.4
79.4
0.4
12.4

Buckwheat flour
6.1
1.0
77.2
1.4
14.3

Macaroni
11.7
1.6
72.9
3.0
10.8

Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C.

Macaroni, spaghetti, and vermicelli are made from wheaten flour,
rich in gluten, moistened to a stiff dough with water, and forced
through small apertures in an iron plate by means of a screw press.
Various Italian pastes are made from the same mixture. Macaroni
is manufactured to some extent in this country, but the best comes
from Italy, Lagana and Pejero being the favorite brands. When
macaroni is colored, it is done by the use of saffron, not by eggs as
is generally supposed. The only egg macaroni is manufactured in
strips, and comes from Minneapolis.

Macaroni is valuable food, as it is very cheap and nutritious; but
being deficient in fat, it should be combined with cream, butter, or
cheese, to make a perfect food.

From cereals many preparations are made, used alone, or in
combination with other food products. From rice is made rice
flour; from oats, oatmeal, and oats steam-cooked and rolled. There
are many species of corn, the principal varieties being white,
yellow, and red. From corn is made corn meal, both white and
yellow,  cornstarch, hominy, maizena, cerealine, samp, and hulled
corn; from wheat, wheaten or white flour, and a variety of
breakfast foods. Rye is used for flakes, meal, and flour; barley, for
flour and pearl barley. Buckwheat, throughout the United States, is
used only when made into flour for buckwheat cakes.

For family use, cereals should be bought in small quantities, and
kept in glass jars, tightly covered. Many cereal preparations are on
the market for making breakfast mushes, put up in one and two
pound packages, with directions for cooking. In nearly all cases,
time allowed for cooking is not sufficient, unless dish containing
cereal is brought in direct contact with fire, which is not the best
way. Mushes should be cooked over hot water after the first five
minutes; if a double boiler is not procurable, improvise one.
Boiling water and salt should always be added to cereals, allowing
one teaspoon salt to each cup of cereal, boiled to soften cellulose
and swell starch grains, salted to give flavor. Indian meal and
finely ground preparations should be mixed with cold water before
adding boiling water, to prevent lumping.

TABLE FOR COOKING CEREALS

Kind
Quantity
Water
Time

Steam-cooked and rolled oats,
1 cup
13/4 cups
30 minutes

Steam-cooked and rolled rye and wheats,
1 cup
11/4 cups
20 minutes

Rice (steamed)
1 cup
23/4 -31/4 cups (according to age of rice)
45-60 minutes

Indian meal
1 cup
31/2 cups
3 hours

Fine wheat break-fast foods,
1 cup
33/4 cups
30 minutes

Oatmeal (coarse)
1 cup
4 cups
3 hours

Hominy (fine)
1 cup
4 cups
1 hour

Oatmeal Mush with Apples

Core apples, leaving large cavities; pare, and cook until soft in
syrup made by boiling sugar and water together, allowing one cup
sugar to one and one-half cups water. Fill cavities with oatmeal
mush; serve with sugar and cream. The syrup should be saved and
re-used. Berries, sliced bananas, or sliced peaches, are acceptably
served with any breakfast cereal.

Cereal with Fruit

3/4 cup fine wheat breakfast food
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup cold water
1/2 Ib. dates, stoned, and cut in pieces
2 cups boiling water

Mix cereal, salt, and cold water; add boiling water to cereal placed
on front of range. Boil five minutes, steam in double boiler thirty
minutes; stir in dates, and serve with cream. To serve for
breakfast, or as a simple dessert.

Fried Mushes

Mush left over from breakfast may be packed in greased, one
pound baking-powder box, and covered, which will prevent crust
from forming. The next morning remove from box, slice thinly,
dip in flour, and saute Serve with maple syrup.

Fried Corn Meal Mush, or Fried Hominy
Pack corn meal or hominy mush in greased, one pound
baking-powder boxes, or small bread pan, cool, and cover. Cut in
thin slices, and saute cook slowly, if preferred crisp and dry.
Where mushes are cooked to fry, use less water in steaming.

Boiled Rice

1 cup rice
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt

French Chef

Pick over rice; add slowly to boiling, salted water, so as not to
check boiling of water. Boil thirty minutes, or until soft, which
may be determined by testing kernels. Old rice absorbs much more
water than new rice, and takes longer for cooking. Drain in coarse
strainer, and pour over one quart hot water; return to kettle in
which it was cooked; cover, place on back of range, and let stand
to dry off, when kernels are distinct. When stirring rice, always use
a fork to avoid breaking kernels. Rice is more satisfactory when
soaked over night in cold water to cover.

Steamed Rice

1 cup rice
23/4 to 31/4 cups boiling water
1 teaspoon salt
(according to age of rice)

Put salt and water in top of double boiler, place on range, and add
gradually well-washed rice, stirring with a fork to prevent adhering
to boiler. Boil five minutes, cover, place over under part double
boiler, and steam forty-five minutes, or until kernels are soft;
uncover, that steam may escape. When rice is steamed for a simple
dessert, use one-half quantity of water given in recipe, and steam
until rice has absorbed water; then add scalded milk for remaining
liquid.

To wash rice. Put rice in strainer, place strainer over bowl nearly
full of cold water; rub rice between hands, lift strainer from bowl,
and change water. Repeat process three or four times, until water
is quite clear.

Rice with Cheese

Steam one cup rice, allowing one tablespoon salt; cover bottom of
buttered pudding-dish with rice, dot over with three-fourths
tablespoon butter, sprinkle with thin shavings mild cheese and a
few grains cayenne; repeat until rice and one-fourth pound cheese
are used. Add milk to half the depth of contents of dish, cover with
buttered cracker crumbs, and bake until cheese melts.

Rice a la Riston

Finely chop two thin slices bacon, add to one-half raw
medium-sized cabbage, finely chopped; cover, and cook slowly
thirty minutes. Add one-fourth cup rice, boiled, one-half teaspoon
chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Moisten with
one-half cup White Stock, and cook fifteen minutes.

Turkish Pilaf I

Wash and drain one-half cup rice, cook in one tablespoon butter
until brown, add one cup boiling water, and steam until water is
absorbed. Add one and three-fourths cups hot stewed tomatoes,
cook until rice is soft, and season with salt and pepper.

Turkish Pilaf II

1/2 cup washed rice
1 cup Brown Stock, highly seasoned
3/4 cup tomatoes, stewed and strained
3 tablespoons butter

Add tomato to stock, and heat to boiling-point; add rice, and steam
until rice is soft; stir in butter with a fork, and keep uncovered that
steam may escape. Serve in place of a vegetable, or as border for
curried or fricasseed meat.

Turkish Pilaf III

1/3 cup rice
1/2 cup cold cooked chicken cut in dice
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup canned tomatoes
White Stock highly seasoned
Salt and cayenne

Cook rice in boiling salted water, drain, and pour over hot water to
thoroughly rinse. Heat omelet pan, add butter, and as soon as
butter is melted add rice. Cook three minutes; then add tomatoes,
chicken, and enough stock to moisten. Cook five minutes, and
season highly with salt and cayenne. If not rich enough, add more
butter.

Russian Pilaf

Follow recipe for Turkish Pilaf III, substituting cold cooked lamb
in place of chicken, and add a chicken's liver sauted in butter, then
separated into small pieces.

Rissoto Creole

3 tablespoons butter
23/4 cups highly seasoned Brown Stock
1 cup rice
Canned pimentoes

Melt butter in hot frying-pan, add rice, and stir constantly until rice
is well browned. Add stock heated to boiling-point, and cook in
double boiler until soft. Turn on a serving dish, garnish with
pimentoes cut in fancy shapes, and cover with.

Creole Sauce Cook two tablespoons chopped onion, two
tablespoons chopped green pepper, one tablespoon chopped red
pepper, or canned pimentoes, and four tablespoons chopped fresh
mushrooms, with three tablespoons butter, five minutes. Add two
tablespoons flour, one cup tomatoes, one truffle thinly sliced,
one-fourth cup sherry wine, and salt to taste.

Boiled Macaroni

3/4 cup macaroni broken in inch pieces
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 cups White Sauce

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water twenty minutes or until soft,
drain in strainer, pour over it cold water to prevent pieces from
adhering; add cream, reheat, and season with salt.

Macaroni with White Sauce

1/2 cup macaroni broken in inch pieces
2 quarts boiling water
1 tablespoon salt
11/2 cups White Sauce

Cook as for Boiled Macaroni, and reheat in White Sauce. White
Sauce. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour
with one-half teaspoon salt, and pour on slowly one and one-half
cups scalded milk.

Baked Macaroni

Put Macaroni with White Sauce in buttered baking dish, cover
with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Baked Macaroni with Cheese

Put a layer of boiled macaroni in buttered baking dish, sprinkle
with grated cheese; repeat, pour over White Sauce, cover with
buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce

Reheat Boiled Macaroni in one and one-half cups of Tomato
Sauce I, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve; or prepare as
Baked Macaroni, using Tomato in place of White Sauce.

Macaroni a I'Italienne

3/4 cup macaroni
11/2 cups Tomato Sauce II
2 quarts boiling salted water
1/2 cup grated cheese
1/2 onion
2 tablespoons wine
2 cloves
1/2 tablespoon butter

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water, with butter and onion stuck
with cloves; drain, remove onion, reheat in Tomato Sauce, add
cheese and wine.

Macaroni, Italian Style
1 cup macaroni
11/2 cups scalded milk
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup grated cheese
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and paprika
1/4 cup finely chopped cold boiled ham

Break macaroni in one-inch pieces and cook in boiling salted
water, drain, and reheat in sauce made of butter, flour, and milk, to
which is added cheese. As soon as cheese is melted, season with
salt and paprika, and turn on to a serving dish. Sprinkle with ham,
and garnish with parsley.

Macaroni a la Milanaise

Cook macaroni as for Macaroni a I'Italienne, reheat in Tomato
Sauce II, add six sliced mushrooms, two slices cooked smoked
beef tongue cut in strips, and one-half cup grated cheese.

Spaghetti

Spaghetti may be cooked in any way in which macaroni is cooked,
but is usually served with Tomato Sauce.

It is cooked in long strips rather than broken in pieces; to
accomplish this, hold quantity to be cooked in the hand, and dip
ends in boiling salted water; as spaghetti softens it will bend, and
may be coiled under water.

Knfli

Beat two eggs slightly and add one-fourth cup milk. Add gradually
to one cup flour mixed and sifted with one teaspoon salt. Place
colander over a kettle of boiling water, turn in one-third mixture,
and force through colander into water, using a potato masher. As
soon as buttons come to top of water, remove with skimmer to hot
vegetable dish, and sprinkle with salt and grated cheese; repeat
until mixture is used. Let stand in oven five minutes, then serve.

Ravioli

11/2 cups flour
1/4 cup chopped cooked spinach
1/2 egg
1 egg
Warm water
Chicken stock
1/4 cup cracker crumbs
Salt
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Pepper

Sift flour on a board, make depression in centre, drop in one-half
egg, and moisten with warm water to a stiff dough. Knead until
smooth, cover, and let stand ten minutes; then roll as thin as a
sheet of paper, using a rolling-pin. Cut in strips as long as paste,
and two and three-fourth inches wide, using a pastry jagger. Mix
cracker crumbs, spinach, and egg; moisten with stock and season
with salt and pepper. Put mixture by three-fourths teaspoon on
lower half of strips of paste, two inches apart. Fold upper part of
paste over lower part. Press edges together and between mixture
with tips of thumbs, then cut apart, using pastry jagger. Cook ten
minutes in the liquor in which a fowl has been cooked, take up
with skimmer, arrange a layer on hot serving dish, sprinkle
generously with grated Parmesan cheese, cover with Tomato
Sauce; repeat twice and serve at once.

Tomato Sauce

1/3 cup butter
Few grains pepper
1 onion, finely chopped
1 small can condensed tomato
3/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 lb. lean beef

Cook first four ingredients eight minutes. Add tomato, 1 pint of
water, and beef cut in small pieces, and cook one and one-half
hours. Remove meat before serving. Ravioli is a national Italian
dish, and the cheese and condensed tomato may be best bought of
an Italian grocer.

Chapter VII. EGGS.

COMPOSITION

Protein, 14.9%
Mineral matter, 1%

Fat, 10.6%
Water, 73.5%

EGGS, like milk, form a typical food, inasmuch as they contain all
the elements, in the right proportion, necessary for the support of
the body. Their highly concentrated, nutritive value renders it
necessary to use them in combination with other foods rich in
starch (bread, potatoes, etc.). In order that the stomach may have
enough to act upon, a certain amount of bulk must be furnished.

A pound of eggs (nine) is equivalent in nutritive value to a pound
of beef. From this it may be seen that eggs, at even twenty-five
cents per dozen, should not be freely used by the strict economist.
Eggs being rich in proteid serve as a valuable substitute for meat.
In most families, their use in the making of cake, custard,
puddings, etc., renders them almost indispensable. It is surprising
how many intelligent women, who look well to the affairs of the
kitchen, are satisfied to use what are termed "cooking eggs"; this
shows poor judgment from an economical standpoint. Strictly
fresh eggs should always be used if obtainable. An egg after the
first twenty four hours steadily deteriorates. If exposed to air,
owing to the porous structure of the shell, there is an evaporation
of water, air rushes in, and decomposition takes place.

White of egg contains albumen in its purest form. Albumen
coagulates at a temperature of from 134 degrees to 160 degrees F.
Herein lies the importance of cooking eggs at a low temperature,
thus rendering them easy of digestion. Eggs cooked in boiling
water are tough and horny, difficult of digestion, and should never
be served.

When eggs come from the market, they should be washed, and put
away in a cold place.

Ways of Determining Freshness of Eggs. I. Hold in front of candle
flame in dark room, and the centre should look clear.

II. Place in basin of cold water, and they should sink.

III. Place large end to the cheek, and a warmth should be felt.

Ways of Keeping Eggs. I. Pack in sawdust, small end down.

II. Keep in lime water.

III. Form July to September a large number of eggs are packed,
small ends down in cases having compartments, one for each egg,
and kept in cold storage. Eggs are often kept in cold storage six
months, and then sold as cooking eggs.

Boiled Eggs

Have ready a saucepan containing boiling water. Carefully put in
with a spoon the number of eggs desired, covering them with
water. Remove saucepan to back of range, where water will not
boil. Cook from six to eight minutes if liked "soft-boiled," forty to
forty-five if liked "hard-boiled." Eggs may be cooked by placing in
cold water and allowing water to heat gradually until the
boiling-point is reached, when they will be "soft boiled." In using
hard-boiled eggs for making other dishes, when taken from the hot
water they should be plunged into cold water to prevent, if
possible, discoloration of yolks.

Eggs perfectly cooked should be placed and kept in water at a
uniform temperature of 175 degrees F.

Dropped Eggs (Poached)

Have ready a frying-pan two-thirds full of boiling salted water,
allowing one-half tablespoon salt to one quart of water. Put two or
three buttered muffin rings in the water. Break each egg separately
into a saucer, and carefully slip into a muffin ring. The water
should cover the eggs. When there is a film over the top, and the
white is firm, carefully remove with a buttered skimmer to circular
pieces of buttered toast, and let each person season his own egg
with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked for an invalid, garnish with
four toast-points and a bit of parsley. An egg-poacher may be used
instead of muffin rings.

Eggs a la Finnoise

Dropped Eggs, served with Tomato Sauce I.

Poached Eggs a la Reine

Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with sliced fresh
mushrooms sauted in butter and moistened with cream. Poach eggs
and arrange on mushrooms. Pour over all white sauce to which
grated Parmesan cheese has been added. Sprinkle with grated
cheese and put in oven to brown. Garnish with canned pimentoes
cut in fancy shapes.

Eggs a la Suisse

4 eggs
Salt
1/2 cup cream
Pepper
1 tablespoon butter
Cayenne
2 tablespoons grated cheese

Heat a small omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, add
cream. Slip in the eggs one at a time, sprinkle with salt, pepper,
and a few grains of cayenne. When whites are nearly firm, sprinkle
with cheese. Finish cooking, and serve on buttered toast. Strain
cream over the toast.

Eggs Susette

Wash and bake six large potatoes, cut slice from top of each, scoop
out inside, and mash. To three cups mashed potato add six
tablespoons finely chopped ham, two tablespoons finely chopped
parsley, whites of two eggs well beaten, three tablespoons butter,
four tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper. Line potato shells
with mixture place in each cavity a poached egg, cover with potato
mixture, and bake until browned. Care must be taken to have eggs
delicately parched.

Baked or Shirred Eggs

Butter an egg-shirrer. Cover bottom and sides with fine cracker
crumbs. Break an egg into a cup, and carefully slip into shirrer.
Cover with seasoned buttered crumbs, and bake in moderate oven
until white is firm and crumbs brown. The shirrers should be
placed on a tin plate, that they may be easily removed from the
oven.

Eggs may be baked in small tomatoes. Cut a slice from stem end
of tomato, scoop out the pulp, slip in an egg, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake.

Eggs a la Tripe

Serve dropped eggs on Lobster Croquettes shaped in flat round
cakes one-half inch thick. Garnish with lobster claws and parsley.

Eggs a la Benedict

Split and toast English muffins. Saute circular pieces of cold
boiled ham, place these over the halves of muffins, arrange on
each a dropped egg, and pour around Hollandaise Sauce II , diluted
with cream to make of such consistency to pour easily.

Eggs a la Lee

Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with thin slices cold boiled
ham. Arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around

Mushroom Puree. Clean one-fourth pound mushrooms, break caps
in pieces, and saute five minutes in one tablespoon butter. Add one
cup chicken stock and simmer five minutes. Rub through a sieve
and thicken with one tablespoon each butter and flour cooked
together. Season with salt and pepper.

Eggs a la Commodore

Cut slices of bread in circular pieces and saute in butter. Remove a
portion of centre, leaving a rim one-fourth inch wide. Spread
cavity thus made with pte de foie gras puree, place a poached egg
in each and pour over a rich brown or Bechamel sauce to which is
added a few drops vinegar. Garnish with chopped truffles.

Eggs, Waldorf Style

Arrange poached eggs on circular pieces of buttered toast,
surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce , and place a broiled
mushroom cap on each egg.

Poached Eggs with Sauce Bearnaise

Poach six eggs, arrange in serving dish, cover eggs alternately with
red and yellow sauce, and garnish with parsley.

Sauce Bearnaise. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add three
tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons hot water, three-fourths
tablespoon tarragon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few
grains cayenne. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens.
Color one-half the sauce with Tomato Puree (tomatoes drained
from their liquor, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a
thick pulp).

Scrambled Eggs

5 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly with silver fork; add salt, pepper, and milk. Heat
omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, turn in the mixture.
Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from
bottom of the pan.

Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce

6 eggs
4 tablespoons butter
13/4 cups tomatoes
1 slice onion
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Simmer tomatoes and sugar five minutes; fry butter and onion
three minutes; remove onion, and add tomatoes, seasonings, and
eggs slightly beaten. Cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Serve with
entire wheat bread or brown bread toast.

Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast

Spread thin slices of buttered toast with anchovy paste. Arrange on
platter, and cover with scrambled eggs.

Eggs a la Buckingham

Make five slices milk toast, and arrange on platter. Use recipe for
Scrambled Eggs, having the eggs slightly underdone. Pour eggs
over toast, sprinkle with four tablespoons grated mild cheese. Put
in oven to melt cheese, and finish cooking eggs.

Eggs a la Turk

Prepare Scrambled Eggs, and pour over six slices of toasted bread.
Put one tablespoon Tomato Puree on each piece, and in the centre
of puree one-half tablespoon chickens' livers sauted in bacon fat.

Eggs a la Livingstone

4 eggs
1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/2 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
2 tablespoons butter

Pte de foie gras

1/2 teaspoon salt
Finely chopped truffles

Beat eggs slightly, and add tomatoes, salt, and paprika. Melt butter
in an omelet pan, add seasoned eggs, and cook same as Scrambled
Eggs. Spread slices of toasted bread with pte de foie gras. Pour
over the eggs, and sprinkle with truffles.

Scrambled Eggs, Country Style
Heat omelet pan, put in two tablespoons butter, and when melted
turn in four unbeaten eggs. Cook until white is partially set, then
stir until cooking is completed, when whites will be thoroughly
set. Season with salt and pepper.

Buttered Eggs
Heat omelet pan. Put in one tablespoon butter; when melted, slip
in an egg, and cook until the white is firm. Turn it over once while
cooking. Add more butter as needed, using just enough to keep egg
from sticking.

Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes
Cut tomatoes in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter. Serve a buttered egg
on each slice of tomato.

Planked Eggs
Finely chop cold cooked corned beef or corned tongue; there
should be two-thirds cup. Add an equal quantity of fine bread
crumbs, moisten with cream and season with salt and pepper.
Spread mixture on plank, and make nests and border of duchess
potatoes, using rose tube. Put a buttered or poached egg in each
nest and put in oven to brown potato. Garnish with tomatoes cut in
halves and broiled, and parsley. Eggs may be sprinkled with
buttered cracker crumbs, just before sending to oven, if preferred.

Fried Eggs
Fried eggs are cooked as Buttered Eggs, without being turned. In
this case the fat is taken by spoonfuls and poured over the eggs.
Lard, crisco, pork, ham, or bacon fat are usually employed, a
considerable amount being used.

Eggs a la Goldenrod

3 "hard-boiled" eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter
1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon flour
5 slices toast

1 cup milk
Parsley

Make a thin white sauce with butter, flour, milk, and seasonings.
Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Chop whites finely, and add
them to the sauce. Cut four slices of toast in halves lengthwise.
Arrange on platter, and pour over the sauce. Force the yolks
through a potato ricer or strainer, sprinkling over the top. Garnish
with parsley and remaining toast, cut in points.

Eggs au Gratin
Arrange Dropped Eggs on a shallow buttered dish. Sprinkle with
grated Parmesan cheese. Pour over eggs one pint Yellow
Bechamel Sauce. Cover with stale bread crumbs, and sprinkle with
grated cheese. Brown in oven. Tomato or White Sauce may be
used.

Eggs in Batter

1 egg
2 tablespoons fine stale bread crumbs

11/2 tablespoons thick cream

1/4 teaspoon salt
Mix cream, bread crumbs, and salt. Put one-half tablespoon of
mixture in egg-shirrer. Slip in egg, and cover with remaining
mixture. Bake six minutes in moderate oven.

Curried Eggs I

3 "hard-boiled" eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon curry powder

2 tablespoons flour
1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 cup hot milk

Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, and gradually hot milk. Cut
eggs in eighths lengthwise, and reheat in sauce.

Curried Eggs II

4 "hard-boiled" eggs
1 teaspoon curry powder

2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1/8 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons flour
11/3 cups scalded milk

1/2 cup cooked rice

Chop whites of eggs and add to sauce made of butter, flour,
seasonings, and milk, then add rice; heat to boiling-point, fill puff
paste cases and sprinkle with yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve.

Scalloped Eggs

3 "hard-boiled" eggs
3/4 cup chopped cold meat

1 pint White Sauce I
3/4 cup buttered cracker crumbs

Chop eggs finely. Sprinkle bottom of a buttered baking dish with
crumbs, cover with one-half the eggs, eggs with sauce, and sauce
with meat; repeat. Cover with remaining crumbs. Place in oven on
centre grate, and bake until crumbs are brown. Ham is the best
meat to use for this dish. Chicken, veal, or fish may be used.

Stuffed Eggs
Cut four "hard-boiled" eggs in halves crosswise; remove yolks,
mash, and add two tablespoons grated cheese, one teaspoon
vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon mustard, and salt and cayenne to
taste. Add enough melted butter to make mixture of the right
consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and
refill whites. Arrange on a serving dish, pour around one cup
White Sauce, cover, and reheat.

Stuffed Eggs in a Nest
Cut "hard-boiled" eggs in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks, and
put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add half the amount of
devilled ham and enough melted butter to make of consistency to
shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Form
remainder of mixture into a nest. Arrange eggs in the nest, and
pour over one cup White Sauce I. Sprinkle with buttered crumbs,
and bake until crumbs are brown.

Eggs a la Sidney
Arrange "hard-boiled" eggs, out in thirds lengthwise, on pieces of
toasted bread. Pour over eggs Soubise Sauce.

Eggs Huntington

4 "hard-boiled" eggs
1/3 cup milk

1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon salt

11/2 tablespoon flour
Few grains cayenne

1/3 cup white stock
Grated cheese

3/4 cup buttered cracker crumbs

Make a sauce of the butter, flour, stock, and milk; add eggs finely
chopped and salt and cayenne. Fill buttered ramequin dishes with
mixture, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with cracker crumbs,
and bake in a moderate oven until crumbs are brown.

Egg Farci I
Cuts "hard-boiled" egg in halves, crosswise. Remove yolks, and
put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add equal amount of
cold cooked chicken or veal, finely chopped. Moisten with melted
butter or Mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt, pepper, lemon
juice, mustard, and cayenne. Shape and refill whites.

Egg Farci II
Clean and chop two chickens' livers, sprinkle with onion juice, and
saute in butter. Add the yolks of four "hard-boiled" eggs rubbed
through a sieve, one teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt, pepper,
and Tabasco Sauce to taste. Refill whites of eggs with mixture,
cover with grated cheese, and bake until cheese melts. Serve in
toast rings and pour around Tomato Puree .

Lucanian Eggs

5 "hard-boiled" eggs
13/4 cups White Sauce I

1 cup cooked macaroni
Salt and paprika

1/2 cup grated cheese
Onion juice

Anchovy sauce
3/4 cup buttered crumbs

Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, add macaroni, white sauce, and
seasonings. Arrange in buttered baking dish, cover with buttered
crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Egg Souffle

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup cream

2 tablespoons flour
4 eggs

1 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt

Few grains cayenne

Cream the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually scalded milk
and cream. Cook in double boiler five minutes, and add yolks of
eggs, beaten until thick and lemon-colored. Remove from fire, add
seasonings, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry.
Turn into a buttered dish, or buttered individual moulds, set in pan
of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Egg Souffle may
be served with White Sauce I, highly seasoned with celery salt,
paprika, and onion juice.

Egg Timbales

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup milk
1/8 teaspoon pepper

3 eggs
Few grains celery salt

Few grains cayenne

Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk; add yolks beaten until
thick and lemon-colored, then add seasonings. Beat whites of eggs
until stiff and dry, and cut and fold into first mixture. Turn into
buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven
until firm. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce .

Egg Croquettes

6 eggs
Salt

2 tablespoons butter
Pepper

1 slice onion
Yolks 3 eggs

1/3 cup flour
Stale bread crumbs

1 cup white stock
Grated cheese

Poach eggs and dry on a towel. Cook butter with onion three
minutes. Add flour and, gradually, stock. Season with salt and
pepper; then add yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Cook one minute,
and cool. Cover eggs with mixture, roll in bread crumbs and
cheese, using equal parts, dip in egg, again roll in crumbs, fry in
deep fat, and drain on brown paper. These may be served with a
thin sauce, using equal parts of white stock and cream, and
seasoning with grated cheese, salt, and paprika.

Eggs a la Juliette
Decorate egg-shaped individual moulds with truffles, and cold
boiled tongue cut in fancy shapes, and pistachio nuts blanched and
split. Line mould with aspic jelly, drop in a poached egg yolk,
cover with aspic jelly, let stand until firm, and turn on a thin oval
slice of cold boiled tongue.

Eggs a la Parisienne
Butter small timbale moulds, sprinkle with finely chopped truffles,
parsley, and cooked beets. Break eggs, and slip one into each
mould, sprinkle with salt and pepper, set in pan of hot water, and
cook until egg is firm. Remove from moulds on octagon slices of
toast, and pour around Tomato Sauce II .

Eggs Mornay
Break egg and slip into buttered egg-shirrers, allowing one or two
eggs to each shirrer, according to size. Cover with White Sauce II ,
seasoned with one-third cup grated cheese, paprika, and yolks two
eggs; cover with grated cheese and bake until firm.

Omelets
For omelets select large eggs, allowing one egg for each person,
and one tablespoon liquid for each egg. Keep an omelet pan
especially for omelets, and see that it is kept clean and smooth. A
frying-pan may be used in place of omelet pan.
Plain Omelet

4 eggs
4 tablespoons hot water

1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter

Few grains pepper
11/2 cups Thin White Sauce

Separate yolks from whites. To yolks add salt, pepper, and hot
water and beat until thick and lemon-colored. Beat whites until
stiff, cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have
taken up mixture. Heat omelet pan, and butter sides and bottom.
Turn in mixture, spread evenly, place on range where it will cook
slowly, occasionally turning the pan that omelet may brown
evenly. When well "puffed" and delicately browned underneath,
place pan on centre grate of oven to finish cooking the top. The
omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the
finger. If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg, it
needs longer cooking. Fold, and turn on hot plater, and pour
around one and one-half cups Thin White Sauce

Milk is sometimes used in place of hot water, but hot water makes
a more tender omelet. A few grains baking powder are used by
some cooks to hold up an omelet.

To Fold and Turn an Omelet

Hold an omelet pan by handle with the left hand. With a case knife
make two one-half inch incisions opposite each other at right
angles to handle. Place knife under the part of omelet nearest
handle, tip pan to nearly a vertical position; by carefully coaxing
the omelet with knife, it will fold and turn without breaking.

Omelet with Meat or Vegetables
Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in remnants of finely chopped
cooked chicken, veal, or ham. Remnants of fish may be flaked and
added to White Sauce; or cooked peas, asparagus, or cauliflower
may be added.

Oyster Omelet
Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in one pint oysters, parboiled,
drained from their liquor, and cut in halves. Turn on platter, and
pour around Thin White Sauce.

Orange Omelet

3 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 oranges

Few grains salt
1/2 tablespoon butter

21/2 tablespoons orange juice

Follow directions for Plain Omelet. Remove skin from oranges and
cut in slices, lengthwise. Fold in one-third of the slices of orange,
well sprinkled with powdered sugar; put remaining slices around
omelet, and sprinkle with sugar.

Jelly Omelet
Mix and cook Plain Omelet, omitting pepper and one-half the salt,
and adding one tablespoon sugar. Spread before folding with jam,
jelly, or marmalade. Fold, turn, and sprinkle with sugar.

Bread Omelet

4 eggs
3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup milk
1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup stale bread crumbs
1 tablespoon butter

Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk, add beaten yolks and
seasonings, fold in whites. Cook and serve as Plain Omelet.

French Omelet

4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons milk
1/3 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly, just enough to blend yolks and whites, add the
milk and seasonings. Put butter in hot omelet pan; when melted,
turn in the mixture; as it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork until
the whole is of creamy consistency. Place on hotter part of range
that it may brown quickly underneath. Fold, and turn on hot
platter.

Omelet with Crotons

1 cup bread cut in 1/3 inch cubes
4 tablespoons cream

Butter
1/2 teaspoon salt

5 eggs
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Fry cubes of bread in butter until well browned and crisp. Beat
eggs slightly, add cream, salt, pepper, and crotons. Put two
tablespoons butter in hot omelet pan, and as soon as melted and
slightly browned turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet.

Eggs with Spinach a la Martin
Cover the centre of a platter with finely chopped and seasoned
cooked spinach. Beat three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons hot
water, one-third teaspoon salt, one tablespoon, each, red and green
pepper cut in strips, and one tablespoon cooked ham cut in very
small pieces. Heat Omelet pan, put in one and one-half
tablespoons olive oil, and as soon as heated pour in mixture. Cook
same as French Omelet and turn on to spinach. Garnish with
parsley.

Spanish Omelet
Mix and cook a French Omelet. Serve with Tomato Sauce in the
centre and around omelet.

Tomato Sauce. Cook two tablespoons of butter with one
tablespoon of finely chopped onion, until yellow. Add one and
three-fourths cups tomatoes, and cook until moisture has nearly
evaporated. Add one tablespoon sliced mushrooms, one tablespoon
capers, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. This is
improved by a small piece of red or green pepper, finely chopped,
cooked with butter and onion.

Rich Omelet

21/2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk

3/4 teaspoon salt
3 eggs

3 tablespoons butter

Mrs. E. A. Dwinell

Mix salt and flour, and add gradually milk. Beat eggs until thick
and lemon-colored, then add to first mixture. Heat iron frying-pan
and put in two-thirds of the butter; when butter is melted, pour in
mixture. As it cooks, life with a griddle-cake turner so that
uncooked part may run underneath; add remaining butter as
needed, and continue lifting the cooked part until it is firm
throughout. Place on hotter part of range to brown; roll, and turn
on hot platter.

Omelette Robespierre

3 eggs
1 tablespoon powdered sugar

3 tablespoons hot water
1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients. Put one and
one-half tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan, turn in mixture
and cook same as French Omelet. Fold, turn on a hot platter,
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and score with a hot poker.

Almond Omelet, Caramel Sauce

3 eggs
Few grains salt

3 tablespoons caramel sauce
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add caramel,
salt, and vanilla, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until
stiff and dry. Put three-fourths tablespoon butter in a hot omelet
pan, cover bottom of pan with shredded almonds, turn in mixture,
and cook and fold same as Plain Omelet. Pour around

Caramel Sauce. Pour one cup sugar in omelet pan, and stir
constantly, over hot part of range, until melted to a light brown
syrup. Add three-fourths cup hot water, and let simmer ten
minutes.

Chapter VIII. SOUPS.

It cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the
excellence of their cuisine, and to their soups and sauces belong
the greatest praise. It would be well to follow their example, and it
is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making.
How may a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup?
The hot liquid, taken into an empty stomach, is easily assimilated,
acts as a stimulant rather than a nutrient (as is the popular
opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow.
The cream soups and purees are so nutritious that, with bread and
butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal.

Soups are divided into two great classes: soups with stock; soups
without stock.

Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish,
poultry, or game, separately or in combination. They are classified
as: 

Bouillon, made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually
cleared. Exception, clam bouillon.

Brown Soup Stock, made from beef (two-thirds lean meat, and
remainder bone and fat), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices,
and sweet herbs.



White Soup Stock, made from chicken or veal, with delicate
seasonings.
Consomme, usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef,
veal, and fowl being employed), highly seasoned with vegetables,
spices, and sweet herbs. Always served clear.

Lamb Stock, delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth.

Soups without stock are classified as: 

Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small
amount of cream and seasonings. Always thickened.

Purees, made from vegetables or fish, forced through a strainer,
and retained in soup, milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than
cream soup. Sometimes White Stock is added.

Bisques, generally made from shell-fish, milk, and sea-sonings,
and served with fish dice; made similarly to purees. They may be
made of meat, game, or vegetables, with small dice of the same.

Various names have been given to soups, according to their
flavorings, chief ingredients, the people who use them, etc. To the
Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Pot-au-feu; to the
Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida.

SOUP MAKING

The art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first
appears. The young housekeeper is startled at the amazingly large
number of ingredients the recipe calls for, and often is
discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what
is essential for the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables
turnips, carrots, celery, and onions may be bought in large or small
quantities. The outer stalks of celery, often not suitable for serving,
should be saved for soups. At seasons when celery is a luxury, the
tips and roots should be saved and dried. Sweet herbs, including
thyme, savory, and marjoram, are dried and put up in packages,
retailing from five to ten cents. Bay leaves, which should be used
sparingly, may be obtained at first-class grocers' or druggists';
seeming never to lose strength, they may be kept indefinitely.
Spices, including whole cloves, allspice berries, peppercorns, and
stick cinnamon, should be kept on hand. These seasonings, with
the addition of salt, pepper, and parsley, are the essential
flavorings for stock soups. Flour, cornstarch, arrowroot, fine
tapioca, sago, pearl barley, rice, bread, or eggs are added to give
consistency and nourishment.
In small families, where there are few left-overs, fresh meat must
be bought for the making of soup stock, as a good soup cannot be
made from a small amount of poor material. On the other hand,
large families need seldom buy fresh meat, provided all left-overs
are properly cared for. The soup kettle should receive small pieces
of beef (roasted, broiled, or stewed), veal, carcasses of fowl or
chicken, chop bones, bones left from lamb roast, and all trimmings
and bones, which a careful housewife should see are sent from the
market with her order. Avoid the use of smoked or corned meats,
or large pieces of raw mutton or lamb surrounded by fat, on
account of the strong flavor so disagreeable to many. A small
piece of bacon or lean ham is sometimes cooked with vegetables
for flavor.

Beef ranks first as regards utility and economy in soup making. It
should be cut from the fore or hind shin (which cuts contain
marrow-bone), the middle cuts being most desirable. If the lower
part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor,
unless a cheap piece of lean meat is used with it, which frequently
is done. It must be remembered that meat, bone, and fat in the
right proportions are all necessary; allow two-thirds lean meat, the
remaining one-third bone and fat. From the meat the soluble
juices, salts, extractives (which give color and flavor), and a small
quantity of gelatin are extracted; from the bone, gelatin (which
gives the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency) and mineral
matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin, tendons, and
ligaments. Some of the fat is absorbed; the remainder rises to the
top and should be removed.

Soup-stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils.
Sharp meat knives, hardwood board, two puree strainers having
meshes of different size, and a soup digester (a porcelain-lined
iron pot, having tight-fitting cover, with valve in the top), or
covered granite kettle, are essentials. An iron kettle, which
formerly constituted one of the furnishings of a range, may be used
if perfectly smooth. A saw, cleaver, and scales, although not
necessary, are useful, and lighten labor.

When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in
cool place. When ready to start stock, if scales are at hand, weigh
meat and bone to see if correct proportions have been sent. Wipe
meat with clean cheesecloth wrung out of cold water. Cut lean
meat in one-inch cubes; by so doing, a large amount of surface is
exposed to the water, and juices are more easily drawn out. Heat
frying-pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow-bone, and
use enough to brown one-third of the lean meat, stirring constantly,
that all parts of surface may be seared, thus preventing escape of
juices, sacrificing a certain amount of goodness in the stock to give
additional color and flavor, which is obtained by caramelization.
Put fat, bone, and remaining lean meat in soup kettle; cover with
cold water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat, bone, and fat.
Let stand one hour, that cold water may draw out juices from meat.
Add browned meat, taking water from soup kettle to rinse out
frying-pan, that none of the coloring may be lost. Heat gradually to
boiling-point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A
scum will rise on the top, which contains coagulated albuminous
juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive value; many, however,
prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain,
when straining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables,
spices, and salt should be added the last hour of cooking. Strain
and cool quickly; by so doing, stock is less apt to ferment. A
knuckle of veal is often used for making white soup stock. Fowl
should be used for stock in preference to chicken, as it is cheaper,
and contains a larger amount of nutriment. A cake of fat forms on
stock when cold, which excludes air, and should not be removed
until stock is used. To remove fat, run a knife around edge of bowl
and carefully remove the same. A small quantity will remain,
which should be removed by passing a cloth wrung out of hot
water around edge and over top of stock. This fat should be
clarified and used for drippings. If time cannot be allowed for
stock to cool before using, take off as much fat as possible with a
spoon, and remove the remainder by passing tissue or any
absorbent paper over the surface.

How to Clear Soup Stock

Whites of eggs slightly beaten, or raw, lean beef finely chopped,
are employed for clearing soup stock. The albumen found in each
effects the clearing by drawing to itself some of the juices which
have been extracted from the meat, and by action of heat have
been coagulated. Some rise to the top and form a scum, others are
precipitated.

Remove fat from stock, and put quantity to be cleared in stew-pan,
allowing white and shell of one egg to each quart of stock. Beat
egg slightly, break shell in small pieces and add to stock. Place on
front of range, and stir constantly until boiling-point is reached;
boil two minutes. Set back where it may simmer twenty minutes;
remove scum, and strain through double thickness of cheesecloth
placed over a fine strainer. If stock to be cleared is not sufficiently
seasoned, additional seasoning must be added as soon as stock has
lost its jelly-like consistency; not after clearing is effected. Many
think the flavor obtained from a few shavings of lemon rind an
agreeable addition.

How to Bind Soups

Cream soups and purees, if allowed to stand, separate, unless
bound together. To bind a soup, melt butter, and when bubbling
add an equal quantity of flour; when well mixed add to soup,
stirring constantly until boiling-point is reached. If recipe calls for
more flour than butter, or soup is one that should be made in
double boiler, add gradually a portion of hot mixture to butter and
flour until of such consistency that it may be poured into the
mixture remaining in double boiler.

SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK

Brown Soup Stock

6 lbs. shin of beef
1 sprig marjoram

3 quarts cold water
2 sprigs parsley

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Carrot
1/2 cup each, cut in dice

6 cloves
Turnip

1/2 bay leaf
Onion

3 sprigs thyme
Celery

1 tablespoon salt

Wipe beef, and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown one-third of
meat in hot frying-pan in marrow from a marrow-bone. Put
remaining two-thirds with bone and fat in soup kettle, add water,
and let stand for thirty minutes. Place on back of range, add
browned meat, and heat gradually to boiling-point. As scum rises it
should be removed. Cover, and cook slowly six hours, keeping
below boiling-point during cooking. Add vegetables and
seasonings, cook one and one-half hours, strain, and cool as
quickly as possible.

Bouillon

5 lbs. lean beef from middle of round
1 tablespoon salt

Carrot
1/3 cup each, cut in dice

2 lbs. marrow-bone
Turnip

3 quarts cold water
Onion

1 teaspoon peppercorns
Celery

Wipe, and cut meat in inch cubes. Put two-thirds of meat in soup
kettle, and soak in water thirty minutes. Brown remainder in hot
frying-pan with marrow from marrow-bone. Put browned meat and
bone in kettle. Heat to boiling-point; skim thoroughly, and cook at
temperature below boiling-point five hours. Add seasonings and
vegetables, cook one hour, strain, and cool. Remove fat, and clear.
Serve in bouillon cups.

Tomato Bouillon with Oysters

1 can tomatoes
6 cloves

11/2 quarts bouillon
1/2 teaspoon celery seed

1 tablespoon chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

1/2 bay leaf
1 pint oysters

Mix all ingredients except oysters, and boil twenty minutes. Strain,
cool, and clear. Add parboiled oysters, and serve in bouillon cups
with small crotons.

Iced Bouillon
Flavor bouillon with sherry or Madeira wine, and serve cold.

Macaroni Soup

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
Salt

1/4 cup macaroni, broken in half-inch pieces.
Pepper

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add to
stock heated to boiling-point. Season with salt and pepper.
Spaghetti or other Italian pastes may be substituted for macaroni.

Tomato Soup with Stock

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
1/3 cup flour

1 can tomatoes
Onion
1/4 cup each cut in dice

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Carrot

1 small bay leaf
Celery

3 cloves
Raw ham

3 sprigs thyme
Salt

4 tablespoons butter
Pepper

Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes, add
flour, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and thyme, and cook three
minutes; then add tomatoes, cover, and cook slowly one hour.
When cooked in oven it requires less watching. Rub through a
strainer, add hot stock, and season with salt and pepper.

Turkish Soup

5 cups Brown Soup Stock
2 slices onion

1/4 cup rice
10 peppercorns

11/2 cups stewed and strained tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon celery salt

2 tablespoons butter

Bit of bay leaf
11/2 tablespoons flour

Cook rice in Brown Stock until soft. Cook bay leaf, onion,
peppercorns, and celery salt with tomatoes thirty minutes.
Combine mixtures, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and
flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper if needed.

Creole Soup

1 quart Brown Soup Stock
Salt

1 pint tomatoes
Pepper

3 tablespoons chopped green peppers
Cayenne

2 tablespoons chopped onion
2 tablespoons grated horseradish

1/4 cup butter
1 teaspoon vinegar

1/3 cup flour
1/4 cup macaroni rings

Cook pepper and onion in butter five minutes. Add flour, stock,
and tomatoes, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain rub through
sieve, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just before
serving add horseradish, vinegar, and macaroni previously cooked
and cut in rings.

Julienne Soup
To one quart clear Brown Soup Stock, add one-fourth cup each
carrot and turnip, cut in thin strips one and one-half inches long,
previously cooked in boiling salted water, and two tablespoons,
each, cooked peas and string beans. Heat to boiling-point.

Dinner Soup

31/2 lbs. lean beef from round
2 tablespoons butter

2 lbs. marrow-bone
Carrot
1/3 cup, each

2 qts. cold water
Turnip

1 can tomatoes
Onion
cut in small pieces

1 teaspoon peppercorns
Celery

1 tablespoon salt
1 sprig parsley

1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
1/2 bay leaf

Wipe meat and cut in inch cubes. Put one-half in kettle with
marrow-bone, water, and tomatoes. Brown remaining half in hot
frying-pan with some marrow from bone, then turn into kettle.
Heat slowly to boiling-point, and cook at temperature just below
boiling-point five hours.

Cook ham and vegetables with butter five minutes, then add to
soup with peppercorns, salt, parsley, and bay leaf. Cook one and
one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.

Bortchock Soup

6 lbs. shin of beef
2 sprigs parsley

3 qts. cold water
2 stalks celery

1 cup carrot cubes
1 beet finely cut

1/2 cup sliced onion
1 tablespoon salt

6 cloves
1 teaspoon peppercorns

1 allspice berry
2 tablespoons butter

Prepare and cook beef same as for Bouillon. Cook vegetables in
butter five minutes; then add to soup with remaining seasonings.
Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and
clear. When ready to clear, add one cup finely chopped raw beet
and one-fourth cup vinegar. Select red beets for this soup, and
serve as soon as possible after clearing, otherwise it will lose its
bright red color, which makes the dish especially appropriate for
an American Beauty Dinner.

Ox-tail Soup

1 small ox-tail
1/2 teaspoon salt

6 cups Brown Stock
Few grains cayenne

Carrot
1/2 cup each, cut in fancy shapes
1/4 cup Madeira wine

Turnip

1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

Onion
1/2 cup each, cut in small pieces

Celery

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Cut ox-tail in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in butter ten minutes. Add to
Brown Stock, and simmer one hour. Then add vegetables, which
have been parboiled twenty minutes; simmer until vegetables are
soft, add salt, cayenne, wine, Worcester-shire Sauce, and lemon
juice.

Scotch Soup

3 lbs. mutton from fore-quarter
1/2 onion

2 qts. cold water
1/4 cup flour

1/2 tablespoon salt

1/4 cup, each, cut in small cubes

1/4 teaspoon pepper
Carrot

2 slices turnip
Turnip

2 tablespoons pearl barley

Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut meat in small pieces. Add
water, heat gradually to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly two
hours. After cooking one hour, add salt, pepper, turnip, and onion.
Strain, cool, remove fat, reheat, and thicken with flour diluted with
enough cold water to pour easily. Cook carrot and turnip dice in
boiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. Soak barley
over night, in cold water, drain, and cook in boiling salted water
until soft; drain, and add to soup. If barley should be cooked in the
soup, it would absorb the greater part of the stock. Barley may be
omitted; in that case sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and
serve with crotons.

White Soup Stock I

3 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 large stalk celery

1 1b. lean beef
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

3 quarts boiling water
1/2 bay leaf

1 onion
2 sprigs thyme

6 slices carrot
2 cloves

French Chef

Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut beef in
pieces, put bone and meat in soup kettle, cover with cold water,
and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain, throw away the water.
Wash thoroughly bones and meat in cold water; return to kettle,
add vegetables, seasonings, and three quarts boiling water. Boil
three or four hours; the stock should be reduced one half.

White Soup Stock II

4 lbs. knuckle of veal
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

2 quarts cold water
1 onion

1 tablespoon salt
2 stalks celery

Blade of mace

Wipe meat, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat,
bone, water, and seasonings in kettle. Heat gradually to
boiling-point, skimming frequently. Simmer four or five hours,
and strain. If scum has been carefully removed, and soup is
strained through double thickness of cheesecloth, stock will be
quite clear.

White Soup Stock III
The water in which a fowl or chicken is cooked makes White
Stock.

Chicken Soup with Wine

3 1b. fowl

1 onion, sliced

2 quarts cold water

2 stalks celery

2 slices carrot

Bit of bay leaf

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons Sauterne wine

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

1 teaspoon beef extract

1 cup cream
Salt
Pepper

Wipe and cut up fowl. Cover with water, and add carrot, salt,
peppercorns, onion, celery, and bay leaf. Bring quickly to
boiling-point, then let simmer until meat is tender. Remove meat
and strain stock. Chill, remove fat, reheat, and add wine, beef
extract, and cream. Season with salt and pepper.

French White Soup

4 lb. fowl
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

Knuckle of veal
1/2 tablespoon salt

3 qts. cold water
1 tablespoon lean raw ham,

1 onion, sliced
finely chopped

6 slices carrot
4 tablespoons butter

1/2 bay leaf
3 tablespoons flour

1 sprig parsley
1 cup cream

1/2 teaspoon thyme
Yolks 2 eggs

Wipe, clean, and disjoint fowl. Wipe veal, remove from bone, and
cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, and water in kettle, heat
slowly to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly four hours. Cook
vegetables and ham in one tablespoon butter five minutes, add to
soup with peppercorns and salt, and cook one hour. Strain, cool,
and remove fat. Reheat three cups stock, thicken with remaining
butter and flour cooked together, and just before serving add
cream and egg yolks. Garnish with one-half cup cooked green peas
and Chicken Custard cut in dice.

White Soup

5 cups White Stock III
2 cups scalded milk

1/2 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
4 tablespoons flour

1 slice onion
Yolks 2 eggs

1 stalk celery
Salt and pepper

Add seasonings to stock, and simmer thirty minutes; strain, and
thicken with butter and flour cooked together; add scalded milk.
Dilute eggs, slightly beaten, with hot soup, and add to remaining
soup; strain, and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once or
soup will have a curdled appearance.

Chicken Soup

6 cups White Stock III
2 stalks celery

1 tablespoon lean raw ham,
1/2 bay leaf

finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon peppercorns

6 slices carrot, cut in cubes
1 sliced onion

1/3 cup hot boiled rice

Add seasonings to stock, heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil
thirty minutes; strain, and add rice.

Turkey Soup
Break turkey carcass in pieces, removing all stuffing; put in kettle
with any bits of meat that may have been left over. Cover with
cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and simmer two hours.
Strain, remove fat, and season with salt and pepper. One or two
outer stalks of celery may be cooked with carcass to give
additional flavor.

Hygienic Soup

6 cups White Stock III
2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup oatmeal
2 tablespoons flour

2 cups scalded milk
Salt and pepper

Heat stock to boiling-point, add oatmeal, and boil one hour; rub
through sieve, add milk, and thicken with butter and flour cooked
together. Season with salt and pepper.

Farina Soup

4 cups White Stock III
1 cup cream

1/4 cup farina
Few gratings of nutmeg

2 cups scalded milk
Salt and pepper

Heat stock to boiling-point, add farina, and boil fifteen minutes;
then add milk, cream, and seasonings.

Spring Soup

1 quart White Stock I or II
1 cup milk

1 large onion thinly sliced
1 cup cream

3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup stale baker's bread
Salt and pepper

Cook onion fifteen minutes in one tablespoon butter; add to stock,
with bread broken in pieces. Simmer one hour; rub through sieve.
Add milk, and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked
together; add cream, and season.

Duchess Soup

4 cups White Stock III
1/3 cup butter

2 slices carrot, cut in cubes
1/4 cup flour

2 slices onion
1 teaspoon salt

2 blades mace
1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup grated mild cheese
2 cups scalded milk

Cook vegetables three minutes in one and one-half tablespoons
butter, then add stock and mace; boil fifteen minutes, strain, and
add milk. Thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked
together; add salt and pepper. Stir in cheese, and serve as soon as
cheese is melted.

Potage a la Reine

4 cups White Stock III
1/3 cup cracker crumbs

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Breast meat from a boiled

1 stalk celery
Chicken

1 slice onion
2 cups scalded milk

1/2 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup cold milk

Yolks 3 "hard-boiled" eggs
3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

Cook stock with seasonings twenty minutes. Rub yolks of eggs
through sieve. Soak cracker crumbs in cold milk until soft; add to
eggs. Chop meat and rub through sieve; add to egg and cracker
mixture. Then pour milk on slowly, and add to strained stock; boil
three minutes. Bind with butter and flour cooked together.

Royal Soup

1 cup stale bread crumbs
11/2 cups scalded milk

1/2 cup milk
31/2 cups White

Yolks 3 "hard-boiled" eggs
Stock III

Breast meat from a boiled chicken
21/2 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper
21/2 tablespoons flour

Soak bread crumbs in milk, add yolks of eggs rubbed through a
sieve and chicken meat also rubbed through a sieve. Add gradually
milk, and chicken stock highly seasoned. Bind with butter and
flour cooked together, and season with salt and pepper.

St. Germain Soup

3 cups White Stock I, II, or III
Blade of mace

1 can Marrowfat peas
2 teaspoons sugar

1 cup cold water
1 teaspoon salt

1/2 onion
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Bit of bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter

Sprig of parsley
2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup milk

Drain and rinse peas, reserving one-third cup; put remainder in
cold water with seasonings, and simmer one-half hour; rub through
sieve and add stock. Bind with butter and cornstarch cooked
together; boil five minutes. Add milk and reserved peas.

Imperial Soup

4 cups White Stock III
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns

2 cups stale bread crumbs
Bit of bay leaf

2 stalks celery, broken in pieces
Blade of mace

2 slices carrot, cut in cubes
1 teaspoon salt

1 small onion
1/2 breast boiled chicken

3 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup blanched almonds

Sprig of parsley
1 cup cream

2 cloves
1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoons flour

Cook celery, carrot, and onion in one tablespoon butter five
minutes; tie in cheesecloth with parsley, cloves, peppercorns, bay
leaf, and mace; add to stock with salt and bread crumbs, simmer
one hour, remove seasonings, and rub through a sieve. Chop
chicken meat and rub through sieve; pound almonds to a paste, add
to chicken, then add cream. Combine mixtures, add milk, reheat,
and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together.

Veal and Sago Soup

21/2 lbs. lean veal
2 cups scalded milk

3 quarts cold water
Yolks 4 eggs

1/4 lb. pearl sago
Salt and pepper

Order meat from market, very finely chopped. Pick over and
remove particles of fat. Cover meat with water bring slowly to
boiling-point, and simmer two hours, skimming occasionally;
strain and reheat. Soak sago one-half hour in enough cold water to
cover, stir into hot stock, boil thirty minutes, and add milk; then
pour mixture slowly on yolks of eggs, slightly beaten. Season with
salt and pepper.

Asparagus Soup

3 cups White Stock II or III
1/4 cup butter

1 can asparagus
1/4 cup flour

2 cups cold water
2 cups scalded milk

1 slice onion
Salt and pepper

Drain and rinse asparagus, reserve tips, and add stalks to cold
water; boil five minutes, drain, add stock, and onion; boil thirty
minutes, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and flour cooked
together. Add salt, pepper, milk, and tips.

Cream of Celery Soup

2 cups White Stock II or III
3 tablespoons flour

3 cups celery, cut in inch pieces
2 cups milk

2 cups boiling water
1 cup cream

1 slice onion
Salt

2 tablespoons butter
Pepper

Parboil celery in water ten minutes; drain, add stock, cook until
celery is soft, and rub through sieve. Scald onion in milk, remove
onion, add milk to stock, bind, add cream, and season with salt and
pepper.

Spinach Soup

4 cups White Stock II or III
1/4 cup butter

2 quarts spinach
1/3 cup flour

3 cups boiling water
Salt

2 cups milk
Pepper

Wash, pick over, and cook spinach thirty minutes in boiling water
to which has been added one-fourth teaspoon powdered sugar and
one-eighth teaspoon of soda; drain, chop, and rub through sieve;
add stock, heat to boiling-point, bind, add milk, and season with
salt and pepper.

Cream of Lettuce Soup

21/2 cups White Stock II or III
1 tablespoon butter

2 heads lettuce finely cut
Yolk 1 egg

2 tablespoons rice
Few grains nutmeg

1/2 cup cream
Salt

1/4 tablespoon onion, finely chopped
Pepper

Cook onion five minutes in butter, add lettuce, rice, and stock.
Cook until rice is soft, then add cream, yolk of egg slightly beaten,
nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Remove outer leaves from lettuce, using
only tender part for soup.

Mushroom Soup

1/2 lb. mushrooms
1 cup boiling water

4 cups White Stock III
1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup pearl sago
Yolks 2 eggs

Salt and pepper

Clean and chop mushrooms, and add to stock. Cook twenty
minutes and rub through a sieve. Cook sago in boiling water thirty
minutes, add to stock, and as soon as boiling-point is reached,
season with salt and pepper; then add cream and yolks of eggs.

Cream of Mushroom Soup

1/2 lb. mushrooms
1/4 cup flour

4 cups White Stock III
1 cup cream

1 slice onion
Salt

1/4 cup butter
Pepper

2 tablespoons Sauterne

Chop mushrooms, add to White Stock with onion, cook twenty
minutes, and rub through a sieve. Reheat, bind with butter and
flour cooked together, then add cream and salt and pepper to taste.
Just before serving add wine.
Cream of Watercress Soup

2 cups White Stock I, II or III
1/2 cup milk

2 bunches watercress
Yolk 1 egg

3 tablespoons butter
Salt

2 tablespoons flour
Pepper

Cut finely leaves of watercress; cook five minutes in two
tablespoons butter, add stock, and boil five minutes. Thicken with
butter and flour cooked together, add salt and pepper. Just before
serving, add milk and egg yolk, slightly beaten. Serve with slices
of French bread, browned in oven.

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

4 cups hot White Stock II or III
1/2 bay leaf

1 cauliflower
1/4 cup flour

1/4 cup butter
2 cups milk

1 slice onion
Salt

1 stalk celery, cut in inch pieces
Pepper

Soak cauliflower, head down, one hour in cold water to cover;
cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes. Reserve one-half
flowerets, and rub remaining cauliflower through sieve. Cook
onion, celery, and bay leaf in butter five minutes. Remove bay
leaf, then add flour, and stir into hot stock; add cauliflower and
milk. Season with salt and pepper; then strain, add flowerets, and
reheat.

Cucumber Soup

3 large cucumbers
1 slice onion

2 tablespoons butter
2 blades mace

3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup cream

3 cups White Stock III
Yolks 2 eggs

1 cup milk
Salt and pepper

Peel cucumbers, slice, and remove seeds. Cook in butter ten
minutes; then add flour and stock. Scald milk with onion and
mace. Combine mixtures and rub through a sieve. Reheat to
boiling-point and add cream and egg yolks. Season with salt and
pepper.

Almond Soup

2/3 cup almonds
3 stalks celery

6 bitter almonds
3 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons cold water
3 tablespoons flour

1/8 teaspoon salt
2 cups scalded milk

3 cups White Stock III
1 cup cream

1 small onion
Salt and pepper

Blanch, chop, and pound almonds in a mortar. Add gradually
water and salt; then add stock, sliced onion, and celery, let simmer
one hour, and rub through a sieve. Melt butter, add flour, and pour
on gradually the hot liquor; then add milk, cream, and salt and
pepper to taste. Serve with Mock Almonds .

String Bean Soup

4 cups White Stock I, II, or III
1/4 cup flour

2 quarts string beans
1/4 cup butter

2 cups scalded milk
Salt and pepper

Cook beans until soft in boiling salted water to cover; drain, and
rub through sieve. Add pulp to White Stock, then milk; bind, and
season with salt and pepper. Garnish with Fritter Beans.

Soup a la Soubise
Thinly slice two Spanish onions, and cook ten minutes in
one-fourth cup butter, stirring constantly. Add one quart White
Stock III, cook slowly thirty minutes, and strain. Dilute three
tablespoons flour with enough cold water to pour easily, add to
soup, and bring to boiling-point. Then add one cup cream, and one
tablespoon chopped green peppers, or one-fourth cup grated
cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

Chestnut Puree

4 cups White Stock II or III
2 cups scalded milk

2 cups French chestnuts, boiled and mashed
1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

1 slice onion
Salt

1/4 teaspoon celery salt
Pepper

Cook stock, chestnuts, onion, and celery salt ten minutes; rub
through sieve, add milk, and bind. Season with salt and pepper.

Crab Soup

6 hard-shelled crabs
2 tablespoons butter

3 cups White Stock III
2 tablespoons flour

2/3 cup stale bread crumbs
1 cup cream

1 slice onion
Salt

1 sprig parsley
Cayenne

Remove meat from crabs, and chop finely. Add stock, bread
crumbs, onion, and parsley, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub
through a sieve, bind with butter and flour cooked together, then
add cream and seasonings. Serve with Pulled Bread.

Philadelphia Pepper Pot

Sliced onion
1/4 cup each
1/2 lb. honeycomb tripe, cut in cubes

Chopped celery

Chopped green peppers

11/2 cups potato cubes

4 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns, finely pounded

31/2 tablespoons flour

5 cups hot White Stock III

3/4 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream

Cook vegetables in three tablespoons butter fifteen minutes; add
flour, and stir until well mixed; then add remaining ingredients
except cream. Cover, and let cook one hour. Just before serving,
add cream and remaining butter.

Mulligatawny Soup

5 cups White Stock II
1/4 cup butter

1 cup tomatoes
1/3 cup flour

Onion, cut in slices
1/4 cup each
1 teaspoon curry powder

Carrot, cut in cubes

Celery, cut in cubes
Blade of mace

1 pepper, finely chopped
2 cloves

1 apple, sliced
Sprig of parsley

1 cup raw chicken, cut in dice
Salt and pepper

French Chef

Cook vegetables and chicken in butter until brown; add flour,
curry powder, mace, cloves, parsley, stock, and tomato, and
simmer one hour. Strain, reserve chicken, and rub vegetables
through sieve. Add chicken to strained soup, season with salt and
pepper, and serve with boiled rice.

Mock Turtle Soup

1 calf's head
2 cups brown stock
6 cloves
1/4 cup butter

1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1/2 cup flour

6 allspice berries
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes

2 sprigs thyme

1/3 cup sliced onion
Juice 1/2 lemon

1/3 cup carrot, cut in dice
Madeira wine

Clean and wash calf's head; soak one hour in cold water to cover.
Cook until tender in three quarts boiling salted water (to which
seasoning and vegetables have been added). Remove head; boil
stock until reduced to one quart. Strain and cool. Melt and brown
butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly
brown stock. Add head-stock, tomato, one cup face-meat cut in
dice, and lemon juice. Simmer five minutes; add Royal custard cut
in dice, and Egg Balls, or Force-meat Balls. Add Madeira wine,
and salt and pepper to taste.

Consomme

3 lbs. beef, poorer part of round
2 tablespoons butter

1 lb. marrow-bone
1 tablespoon salt

3 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 teaspoon peppercorns

1 quart chicken stock
4 cloves

Carrot
1/3 cup each, cut in dice
3 sprigs thyme

Turnip

1 sprig marjoram

Celery

2 sprigs parsley

1/3 cup sliced onion
1/2 bay leaf

3 quarts cold water

Cut beef in one and one-half inch cubes, and brown one-half in
some of the marrow from marrow-bone; put remaining half in
kettle with cold water, add veal cut in pieces, browned meat, and
bones. Let stand one-half hour. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and
let simmer three hours, removing scum as it forms on top of kettle.
Add one quart liquor in which a fowl was cooked, and simmer two
hours. Cook carrot, turnip, onion, and celery in butter five minutes;
then add to soup, with remaining seasonings. Cook one and
one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.

Consomme a la Royal
Consomme, served with Royal custard.

Consomme au Parmesan
Consomme, served with Parmesan Pte a Chou.

Consomme Colbert
To six cups Consomme add one-third cup each of cooked green
peas, flageolets, carrots cut in small cubes, and celery cut in small
pieces. Serve a poached egg in each plate of soup.

Consomme aux Ptes
Consomme, served with noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, or any
Italian pastes, first cooked in boiling salted water.

Consomme d'Orleans
Consomme, served with red and white quenelles and French peas.

Consomme with Vegetables
Consomme, served with French string beans, and cooked carrots
cut in fancy shapes with French vegetable cutters.

Consomme Princess
Consomme, served with green peas and cooked chicken meat cut
in small dice.

Claret Consomme
To one quart Consomme add one and one-half cups claret, which
has been cooked with a three-inch piece stick cinnamon ten
minutes and one tablespoon sugar. Color red.

Bortchock Consomme
Make same as Consomme, adding one-third cup chopped beets
with vegetables; then add one cup finely chopped beets when
clearing.

SOUPS WITH FISH STOCK

Clam Bouillon
Wash and scrub with a brush one-half peck clams, changing the
water several times. Put in kettle with three cups cold water, cover
tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Strain liquor, cool,
and clear.

Oyster Stew

1 quart oysters
1/4 cup butter

4 cups scalded milk
1/2 tablespoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Clean oysters by placing in a colander and pouring over them
three-fourths cup cold water. Carefully pick over oysters, reserve
liquor, and heat it to boiling-point; strain through double
cheesecloth, add oysters, and cook until oysters are plump and
edges begin to curl. Remove oysters with skimmer, and put in
tureen with butter, salt, and pepper. Add oyster liquor strained a
second time, and milk. Serve with oyster crackers.

Scallop Stew
Make same as Oyster Stew, using one quart scallops in place of
oysters.

Oyster Soup
1 quart oysters
Sprig of parsley

4 cups milk
Bit of bay leaf

1 slice onion
1/3 cup butter

2 stalks celery
1/3 cup flour

2 blades mace
Salt and pepper

Clean and pick over oysters as for Oyster Stew; reserve liquor, add
oysters slightly chopped, heat slowly to boiling-point, and let
simmer twenty minutes. Strain through cheesecloth, reheat liquor,
and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with
onion, celery, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and
add to oyster liquor. Season with salt and pepper.

French Oyster Soup

1 quart oysters
1/3 cup butter

4 cups milk
1/3 cup flour

1 slice onion
Yolks 2 eggs

2 blades mace
Salt and pepper

Make same as Oyster Soup, adding yolks of eggs, slightly beaten,
just before serving. Garnish with Fish Quenelles.

Oyster Soup, Amsterdam Style

1 quart oysters
1/2 teaspoon salt

Water
Paprika

3 tablespoons butter
Celery salt

31/2 tablespoons flour
1 cup cream

Clean, pick over, chop, and parboil oysters; drain, strain through
cheesecloth, and add to liquor enough water to make one quart
liquid. Brown butter, add flour, and pour on gradually, while
stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Let simmer one-half hour. Season
with salt, paprika, and celery salt, and just before serving add
cream.

Oyster Gumbo

1 pint oysters
1/2 can okra

4 cups Fish Stock
1/3 can tomatoes

1/4 cup butter
Salt

1 tablespoon chopped onion
Pepper

Clean, pick over, and parboil oysters; drain, and add oyster liquor
to Fish Stock. Cook onion five minutes in one-half the butter; add
to stock. Then add okra, tomatoes heated and drained from some
of their liquor, oysters, and remaining butter. Season with salt and
pepper.

Fish Stock is the liquor obtained by covering the head, tail, skin,
bones, and small quantity of flesh adhering to bones of fish, with
cold water, bringing slowly to boiling-point, simmering thirty
minutes, and straining.

Clam Soup with Poached Eggs

1 quart clams
2 tablespoons flour

4 cups milk
11/2 teaspoons salt

1 slice onion
1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/3 cup butter
Few gratings nutmeg

White 1 egg

Clean and pick over clams, using three-fourths cup cold water;
reserve liquor. Put aside soft part of clams; finely chop hard part,
add to liquor, bring gradually to boiling-point, strain through
cheesecloth, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together.
Scald milk with onion, remove onion, add milk, seasonings, and
soft part of clams. Bring to boiling-point and pour over whites of
eggs beaten stiff.

88
Clam and Oyster Soup

1 pint clams
Sprig of parsley

1 pint oysters
Bit of bay leaf

4 cups milk
1/3 cup butter

1 slice onion
1/3 cup flour

2 blades mace
Salt and pepper

Clean and pick over oysters, using one-third cup cold water;
reserve liquor, and add oysters slightly chopped. Clean and pick
over clams, reserve liquor, and add to hard part of clams, finely
chopped; put aside soft part of clams. Heat slowly to boiling-point
clams and oysters with liquor from both, let simmer twenty
minutes and strain through cheesecloth. Thicken with butter and
flour cooked together and add soft part of clams. Scald milk with
onion, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add
milk to stock. Season with salt and pepper.

Cream of Clam Soup
Make same as French Oyster Soup, using clams in place of oysters.

Clam Consomme
Wash two quarts clams in shell. Put in kettle with one-fourth cup
cold water, cover, and cook until shells open. Strain liquor through
double thickness cheesecloth, add to four cups consomme and
clear.

Clam and Chicken Frappe
Wash and scrub with a brush two quarts clams, changing water
several times. Put in kettle with one-half cup cold water, cover
tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Remove clams
from shells and strain liquor through double thickness cheesecloth.
To one and two-thirds cups clam liquor add two and one-half cups
White Stock III, highly seasoned. Cool, and freeze to a mush.
Serve in place of a soup in frappe glasses, and garnish with
whipped cream.

Clam and Tomato Bisque

1 quart clams
2 cups cream

11/2 cups cold water
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes

1/3 cup butter

1/3 flour
1/3 teaspoon soda

1/2 onion
Salt

Cayenne

Pour water over clams, then drain. To water add hard part of clams
finely chopped. Heat slowly to boiling-point, cook twenty minutes,
then strain. Cook butter with onion five minutes; remove onion,
add flour and gradually clam water. Add cream, soft part of clams,
and as soon as boiling-point is reached, tomatoes to which soda
has been added. Season with salt and cayenne, and serve at once.
Oyster Bisque

1 quart oysters
Bit of bay leaf

2 cups White Stock III
2 tablespoons butter

11/2 cups stale bread crumbs
2 tablespoons flour

1 slice onion
4 cups scalded milk

2 stalks celery
Salt

Sprig of parsley
Pepper

Clean and pick over oysters, reserving liquor, setting aside soft
portions, and chopping gills and tough muscles. Cook White
Stock, bread crumbs, reserved liquor, chopped oyster, onion,
celery, parsley, and bay leaf thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve,
bring to boiling-point, and bind with butter and flour cooked
together. Add milk, soft portion of oysters, and salt and pepper to
taste.

Cream of Scallop Soup

1 quart scallops
1 tablespoon chopped onion

4 cups milk
5 tablespoons butter

2 cloves
1/4 cup flour

Bit of bay leaf
Salt

1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
Pepper

Clean scallops, reserve one-half cup and finely chop remainder.
Add these to milk, with seasonings and two tablespoons butter,
and cook slowly twenty minutes. Strain and thicken with
remaining butter and flour cooked together. Parboil reserved
scallops, and add to soup. Serve with small biscuits or oysterettes.

95
Lobster Bisque

2 lb. lobster
1/4 cup butter

2 cups cold water
1/4 cup flour

4 cups milk
11/2 teaspoons salt

Few grains of cayenne

Remove meat from lobster shell. Add cold water to body bones
and tough end of claws, cut in pieces; bring slowly to
boiling-point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, reserve liquor, and
thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with tail
meat of lobster, finely chopped; strain, and add to liquor. Season
with salt and cayenne; then add tender claw meat, cut in dice, and
body meat. When coral is found in lobster, wash, wipe, force
through fine strainer, put in a mortar with butter, work until well
blended, then add flour, and stir into soup. If a richer soup is
desired, White Stock may be used in place of water.

Chapter IX. SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK.

Black Bean Soup

1 pint black beans
1/8 teaspoon pepper

2 quarts cold water
1/4 teaspoon mustard

1 small onion
Few grains cayenne

2 stalks celery, or
3 tablespoons butter

1/4 teaspoon celery salt
11/2 tablespoons flour

1/2 tablespoon salt
2 "hard-boiled" eggs

1 lemon

Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water.
Slice onion, and cook five minutes with half the butter, adding to
beans, with celery stalks broken in pieces. Simmer three or four
hours, or until beans are soft; add more water as water boils away.
Rub through a sieve, reheat to the boiling-point, and add salt,
pepper, mustard, and cayenne well mixed. Bind with remaining
butter and flour cooked together. Cut eggs in thin slices, and
lemon in thin slices, removing seeds. Put in tureen, and strain the
soup over them.

Baked Bean Soup

3 cups cold baked beans
2 tablespoons butter

3 pints water
2 tablespoons flour

2 slices onion
1 tablespoon Chili sauce

2 stalks celery
Salt

11/2 cups stewed and strained tomatoes
Pepper

Put beans, water, onion, and celery in saucepan; bring to
boiling-point and simmer thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add
tomato, and Chili sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
bind with the butter and flour cooked together. Serve with Crisp
Crackers.

Cream of Lima Bean Soup

1 cup dried lima beans
1 cup cream or milk

3 pints cold water
4 tablespoons butter

2 slices onion
2 tablespoons flour

4 slices carrot
1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water;
cook until soft, and rub through a sieve. Cut vegetables in small
cubes, and cook five minutes in half the butter; remove vegetables,
add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup. Add cream,
reheat, strain, and add remaining butter in small pieces.

Cream of Artichoke Soup

6 artichokes
Few grains cayenne

4 cups boiling water
Few gratings nutmeg

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons Sauterne wine

2 tablespoons flour
1 cup scalded cream

11/2 teaspoons salt
1 egg

2 cucumbers

Cook artichokes in boiling water until soft, and rub through a
sieve. Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, pour on hot liquor,
and cook one minute. Add cream, wine, and egg slightly beaten.
Pare cucumbers, cut in one-third inch cubes, saute in butter, and
add to soup. Jerusalem artichokes are used for the making of this
soup.
Celery Soup I

3 cups celery (cut in one-half inch pieces)
1 slice onion

3 tablespoons butter

1 pint boiling water
1/4 cup flour

21/2 cups milk
Salt and pepper

Wash and scrape celery before cutting in pieces, cook in boiling
water until soft, and rub through a sieve. Scald milk with the
onion, remove onion, and add milk to celery. Bind with butter and
flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Outer and old
stalks of celery may be utilized for soups. Serve with crotons,
crisp crackers, or pulled bread.



Celery Soup II

3 stalks celery
3 tablespoons butter

3 cups milk
3 tablespoons flour

1 slice onion
Salt and pepper

1 cup cream

Break celery in one-inch pieces, and pound in a mortar. Cook in
double boiler with onion and milk twenty minutes and strain.
Thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt
and pepper, add cream, strain into tureen, and serve at once.

Corn Soup

1 can corn
2 tablespoons butter

1 pint boiling water
2 tablespoons flour

1 pint milk
1 teaspoon salt

1 slice onion
Few grains pepper

Chop the corn, add water, and simmer twenty minutes; rub through
a sieve. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to
corn. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt and
pepper. Serve with popped corn.

Halibut Soup

3/4 cup cold boiled halibut
3 tablespoons butter

1 pint milk
11/2 tablespoons flour

1 slice onion
1/2 teaspoon salt

Blade of mace
Few grains pepper

Rub fish through a sieve. Scald milk with onion and mace.
Remove seasonings, and add fish. Bind with half the butter and
flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, and the remaining butter
in small pieces.

Pea Soup

1 can Marrowfat peas
1 slice onion

2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter

1 pint cold water
2 tablespoons flour

1 pint milk
1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Drain peas from their liquor, add sugar and cold water, and
simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and thicken
with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion,
remove onion, and add milk to pea mixture, season with salt and
pepper. Peas too old to serve as a vegetable may be utilized for
soups.

Split Pea Soup

1 cup dried split peas
3 tablespoons butter

21/2 quarts cold water
2 tablespoons flour

1 pint milk
11/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 onion
1/8 teaspoon pepper

2-inch cube fat salt pork

Pick over peas and soak several hours, drain, add cold water, pork,
and onion. Simmer three or four hours, or until soft; rub through a
sieve. Add butter and flour cooked together, salt, and pepper.
Dilute with milk, adding more if necessary. The water in which a
ham has been cooked may be used; in such case omit salt.

Kornlet Soup

1 can kornlet
1 tablespoon chopped onion

1 pint cold water
4 tablespoons flour

1 quart milk, scalded
11/2 teaspoons salt

4 tablespoons butter
Few grains pepper

Cook kornlet in cold water twenty minutes; rub through a sieve,
and add milk. Fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion,
add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup.

Potato Soup

3 potatoes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 quart milk
1/4 teaspoon celery salt
2 slices onion
1/8 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons butter
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon chopped parsley

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water; when soft, rub through a
strainer. There should be two cups. Scald milk with onion, remove
onion, and add milk slowly to potatoes. Melt half the butter, add
dry ingredients, stir until well mixed, then stir into hot soup; boil
one minute, strain, add remaining butter, and sprinkle with parsley.

Appledore Soup
Make same as Potato Soup, and add, just before serving three
tablespoons tomato catsup.

Swiss Potato Soup

4 small potatoes
1/2 onion
1 large flat white turnip
4 tablespoons butter
3 cups boiling water
1/3 cup flour
1 quart scalded milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in halves. Wash, pare, and cut turnips
in one-quarter inch slices. Parboil together ten minutes, drain, add
onion cut in slices, and three cups boiling water. Cook until
vegetables are soft; drain, reserving the water to add to vegetables
after rubbing them through a sieve. Add milk, reheat, and bind
with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.

Leek and Potato Soup

1 bunch leeks
21/2 cups potatoes
1 cup celery
2 tablespoons butter
21/2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 quart milk
Salt and pepper
Cayenne

Cut leeks and celery in very thin slices crosswise and cook in two
and one-half tablespoons butter, stirring constantly, ten minutes.
Add milk, and cook in double boiler forty minutes. Cut potatoes in
slices and cut slices in small pieces; then cook in boiling salted
water ten minutes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add flour, milk
with vegetables and potatoes. Cook until potatoes are soft, and
season with salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Vegetable Soup

1/3 cup carrot
1 quart water
1/3 cup turnip
5 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup celery
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
11/2 cups potato
1/2 onion
Salt and pepper

Wash and scrape a small carrot; cut in quarters lengthwise; cut
quarters in thirds lengthwise; cut strips thus made in thin slices
crosswise. Wash and pare half a turnip, and cut and slice same as
carrot. Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in small pieces. Wash and
scrape celery and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Prepare vegetables
before measuring. Cut onion in thin slices. Mix vegetables (except
potatoes), and cook ten minutes, in four tablespoons butter, stirring
constantly. Add potatoes, cover, and cook two minutes. Add water,
and boil one hour or until vegetables are soft. Beat with spoon or
fork to break vegetables. Add remaining butter and parsley. Season
with salt and pepper.

Salmon Soup

1/3 can salmon
4 tablespoons flour
1 quart scalded milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons butter
Few grains pepper

Drain oil from salmon, remove skin and bones, rub through a
sieve. Add gradually the milk, season, and bind.

Squash Soup

3/4 cup cooked squash
3 tablespoons flour
1 quart milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 slice onion
Few grains pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon celery salt.

Rub squash through a sieve before measuring. Scald milk with
onion, remove onion, and add milk to squash; season, and bind.

Tomato Soup

1 quart tomatoes, raw or canned
2 teaspoons sugar
1 pint water
1 teaspoon salt
12 peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon soda
Bit of bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter
4 cloves
3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion

Cook tomatoes, water, seasonings, and sugar twenty minutes;
strain, and add salt and soda. Brown butter and flour cooked
together; bind, and strain into tureen.

Cream of Tomato Soup

1/2 can tomatoes
1 slice onion
2 teaspoons sugar
4 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 quart milk
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup butter

Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and thicken milk with flour
diluted with cold water until thin enough to pour, being careful
that the mixture is free from lumps; cook twenty minutes, stirring
constantly at first. Cook tomatoes with sugar fifteen minutes, add
soda, and rub through a sieve; combine mixtures, and strain into
tureen over butter, salt, and pepper.

Mock Bisque Soup

2 cups raw or canned tomatoes
Bit of bay leaf
2 teaspoons sugar
3/4 cup stale bread crumbs
1/3 teaspoon soda
4 cups milk
1/2 onion, stuck with 6 cloves
1/2 tablespoon salt
Sprig of parsley
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup butter

Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf.
Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes with
sugar fifteen minutes; add soda and rub through a sieve. Reheat
bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour at once
into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with crotons, crisp
crackers, or souffled crackers.

Tapioca Wine Soup

1/3 cup pearl tapioca
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup cold water
3-inch piece stick cinnamon
3 cups boiling water
1 pint claret wine
1/2 cup powdered sugar

Soak tapioca in cold water two hours. Drain, add to boiling water
with salt and cinnamon; let boil three minutes, then cook in double
boiler until tapioca is transparent. Cool, add wine and sugar. Serve
very cold.

CHOWDERS

Corn Chowder

1 can corn
1 sliced onion
4 cups potatoes, cut in 1/4 -inch slices
4 cups scalded milk
8 common crackers
11/2 -inch cube fat salt pork
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper

Cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion and cook five
minutes, stirring often that onion may not burn; strain fat into a
stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover;
drain, and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water;
cook until potatoes are soft, add corn and milk, then heat to
boiling-point. Season with salt and pepper; add butter, and
crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Remove
crackers, turn chowder into a tureen, and put crackers on top.

Fish Chowder

4 lb. cod or haddock
11/2 -inch cube fat salt pork
6 cups potatoes cut in 1/4 -inch slices, or
1 tablespoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
4 cups potatoes cut in 3/4 -inch cubes
3 tablespoons butter
4 cups scalded milk
1 sliced onion
8 common crackers

Order the fish skinned, but head and tail left on. Cut off head and
tail and remove fish from backbone. Cut fish in two-inch pieces
and set aside. Put head, tail, and backbone broken in pieces, in
stewpan; add two cups cold water and bring slowly to
boiling-point; cook twenty minutes. Cut salt pork in small pieces
and try out, add onion, and fry five minutes; strain fat into
stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover;
drain and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water and
cook five minutes. Add liquor drained from bones, then add the
fish; cover, and simmer ten minutes. Add milk, salt, pepper, butter,
and crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten,
otherwise they will be soft on the outside, but dry on the inside.
Pilot bread is sometimes used in place of common crackers.

Connecticut Chowder

4 lb. cod or haddock
21/2 cups stewed and strained tomatoes
4 cups potatoes cut in 3/4 -inch cubes
3 tablespoons butter
11/2 -inch cube fat salt pork
2/3 cup cracker crumbs
1 sliced onion
Salt and pepper

Prepare same as Fish Chowder, using liquor drained from bones
for cooking potatoes, instead of additional water. Use tomatoes in
place of milk and add cracker crumbs just before serving.

Clam Chowder

1 quart clams
1 tablespoon salt
4 cups potatoes cut in 3/4 -inch cubes
1/8 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons butter
11/2 inch cube fat salt pork
4 cups scalded milk
1 sliced onion
8 common crackers

Clean and pick over clams, using one cup cold water; drain,
reserve liquor, heat to boiling-point, and strain. Chop finely hard
part of clams; cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion, fry
five minutes, and strain into a stewpan. Parboil potatoes five
minutes in boiling water to cover; drain, and put a layer in bottom
of stewpan, add chopped clams, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
dredge generously with flour; add remaining potatoes, again
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and add two and
one-half cups boiling water. Cook ten minutes, add milk, soft part
of clams, and butter; boil three minutes, and add crackers split and
soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Reheat clam water to
boiling-point, and thicken with one tablespoon butter and flour
cooked together. Add to chowder just before serving.

The clam water has a tendency to cause the milk to separate, hence
is added at the last.

Rhode Island Chowder

1 quart clams
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
3 inch cube fat salt pork
1 sliced onion
1/4 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup cold water
1 cup scalded milk
4 cups potatoes cut in 3/4 inch cubes
1 cup scalded cream
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups boiling water
8 common crackers
Salt and pepper

Cook pork with onion and cold water ten minutes; drain, and
reserve liquor. Wash clams and reserve liquor. Parboil potatoes
five minutes, and drain. To potatoes add reserved liquors, hard part
of clams finely chopped, and boiling water. When potatoes are
nearly done, add tomatoes, soda, soft part of clams, milk, cream,
and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Split crackers, soak in
cold milk to moisten, and reheat in chowder.

Lobster Chowder

2 lb. lobster
4 cups milk

3 tablespoons butter
1 slice onion

2 common crackers, finely pounded
1 cup cold water

Salt

Paprika or cayenne

Remove meat from lobster shell and cut in small dice. Cream two
tablespoons butter, add liver of lobster (green part) and crackers;
scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to mixture.
Cook body bones ten minutes in cold water to cover, strain, and
add to mixture with lobster dice. Season with salt and paprika.

German Chowder

3 lb. haddock
1 beaten egg

1 quart cold water
1 quart potatoes cut in 3/4 -inch cubes

2 slices carrot

Bit of bay leaf
2-inch cube fat salt pork

Sprig of parsley
1 sliced onion

1 cracker, pounded
5 tablespoons flour

Salt, pepper, cayenne
1 quart scalded milk

2 tablespoons melted butter
1/4 cup butter

Few drops onion juice
8 common crackers

Clean, skin, and bone fish. Add to bones cold water and
vegetables, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain stock from
bones. Chop fish meat; there should be one and one-half cups. Add
cracker, seasonings, melted butter and egg, then shape in small
balls. Try out pork, add onion, and cook five minutes. Strain, and
add to fat, potatoes, balls, and fish stock, and cook until potatoes
are soft. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together.
Combine mixtures, and season highly with salt, pepper, and
cayenne. Add crackers, split and soaked in cold milk.

Chapter X. SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS.

Crisp Crackers
Split common crackers and spread thinly with butter, allowing
one-fourth teaspoon butter to each half cracker; put in pan and
bake until delicately browned.

Souffled Crackers
Split common crackers, and soak in ice water, to cover, eight
minutes. Dot over with butter, and bake in a hot oven until puffed
and browned, the time required being about forty-five minutes.

Crackers with Cheese
Arrange zephyrettes or saltines in pan. Sprinkle with grated cheese
and bake until cheese in melted.

Crotons (Duchess Crusts)
Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices and remove crusts. Spread
thinly with butter. Cut slices in one-third inch cubes, put in pan
and bake until delicately brown, or fry in deep fat.

Cheese Sticks
Cut bread sticks in halves lengthwise, spread thinly with butter,
sprinkle with grated cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne, and
bake until delicately browned.



Imperial Sticks in Rings
Cut stale bread in one-third inch slices, remove crusts, spread
thinly with butter, and cut slices in one-third inch strips and rings;
put in pan and bake until delicately browned. Arrange three sticks
in each ring.

Mock Almonds
Cut stale bread in one-eighth inch slices, shape with a round cutter
one and one-half inches in diameter, then shape in almond-shaped
pieces. Brush over with melted butter, put in a pan, and bake until
delicately browned.

Pulled Bread
Remove crusts from a long loaf of freshly baked water bread. Pull
the bread apart until the pieces are the desired size and length,
which is best accomplished by using two three-tined forks. Cook
in a slow oven until delicately browned and thoroughly dried. A
baker's French loaf may be used for pulled bread if home-made is
not at hand.

Egg Balls I

Yolks 2 "hard-boiled" eggs
Few grains cayenne

1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon melted butter

Rub yolks through sieve, add seasonings, and moisten with raw
egg yolk to make of consistency to handle. Shape in small balls,
roll in flour, and saute in butter. Serve in Brown Soup Stock,
Consomme, or Mock Turtle Soup.

Egg Balls II

1 "hard-boiled" egg
Few grains cayenne

1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Rub yolk through a sieve, add white finely chopped, and remaining
ingredients. Add raw egg yolk to make mixture of right
consistency to handle. Shape in small balls, and poach in boiling
water or stock.

Egg Custard

Yolks 2 eggs
Few grains salt

2 tablespoons milk

Beat eggs slightly, add milk and salt. Pour into small buttered cup,
place in pan of hot water, and bake until firm; cool, remove from
cup, and cut in fancy shapes with French vegetable cutters.

Harlequin Slices

Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs

2 tablespoons milk
Few grains salt

Few grains salt
Chopped truffles

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add milk and salt. Pour into small
buttered cup, place in pan of hot water and bake until firm. Beat
whites of eggs slightly, add salt, and cook same as yolks. Cool,
remove from cups, cut in slices, pack in a mould in alternate
layers, and press with a weight. A few truffles may be sprinkled
between slices if desired. Remove from mould and cut in slices.
Serve in Consomme.

Royal Custard

Yolks 3 eggs
1/8 teaspoon salt

1 egg
Slight grating nutmeg

1/2 cup Consomme
Few grains cayenne

Beat eggs slightly, add Consomme and seasonings. Pour into a
small buttered tin mould, place in pan of hot water, and bake until
firm; cool, remove from mould, and cut in fancy shapes.

Chicken Custard
Chop cooked breast meat of fowl and rub through sieve; there
should be one-fourth cup. Add one-fourth cup White Stock and
one egg slightly beaten. Season with salt, pepper, celery salt,
paprika, slight grating nutmeg, and few drops essence anchovy.
Turn mixture into buttered mould, bake in a pan of hot water until
firm; cool, remove from mould, and cut in small cubes.

Noodles

1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt

Flour

Beat egg slightly, add salt, and flour enough to make very stiff
dough; knead, toss on slightly floured board, and roll thinly as
possible, which may be as thin as paper. Cover with towel, and set
aside for twenty minutes; then cut in fancy shapes, using sharp
knife or French vegetable cutter; or the thin sheet may be rolled
like jelly-roll, cut in slices as thinly as possible, and pieces
unrolled. Dry, and when needed cook twenty minutes in boiling
salted water; drain, and add to soup.

Noodles may be served as a vegetable.

Fritter Beans

1 egg
3/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons milk
1/2 cup flour

Beat egg until light, add milk, salt, and flour. Put through colander
or pastry tube into deep fat, and fry until brown; drain on brown
paper.

Pte a Choux

21/2 tablespoons milk
1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon lard
1/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon butter
1 egg

Heat butter, lard, and milk to boiling-point, add flour and salt, and
stir vigorously. Remove from fire, add egg un-beaten, and stir until
well mixed. Cool, and drop small pieces from tip of teaspoon into
deep fat. Fry until brown and crisp, and drain on brown paper.

Parmesan Pte a Choux
To Pte a Choux mixture add two tablespoons grated Parmesan
cheese.

White Bait Garnish
Roll trimmings of puff paste, and cut in pieces three-fourths inch
long and one-eighth inch wide; fry in deep fat until well browned,
and drain on brown paper. Serve on folded napkin, and pass with
soup.

Fish Force-meat I

1/4 cups fine stale bread crumbs
1 egg

1/4 cup milk
2/3 cup raw fish

Salt

Cook bread and milk to a paste, add egg well beaten, and fish
pounded and forced through a puree strainer. Season with salt. A
meat chopper is of great assistance in making force-meats, as raw
fish or meat may be easily forced through it. Bass, halibut, or
pickerel are the best fish to use for force-meat. Force-meat is often
shaped into small balls.

Fish Force-meat II

2/3 cup raw halibut
Pepper

White 1 egg
Cayenne

Salt
1/2 cup heavy cream

Chop fish finely, or force through a meat chopper. Pound in
mortar, adding gradually white of egg, and working until smooth.
Add seasonings, rub through a sieve, and then add cream.

Salmon Force-meat

1/2 cup milk
1 egg

1/2 cup soft stale bread crumbs
2 tablespoons melted butter

1/2 cup cold flaked salmon
1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons cream
Few grains pepper

Cook milk and bread crumbs ten minutes, add salmon chopped
and rubbed through a sieve; then add cream, egg slightly beaten,
melted butter, salt, and pepper.

Oyster Force-meat
To Fish Force-meat add one-fourth small onion, finely chopped,
and fried five minutes in one-half tablespoon butter; then add
one-third cup soft part of oysters, parboiled and finely chopped,
one-third cup mushrooms finely chopped, and one-third cup Thick
White Sauce. Season with salt, cayenne, and one teaspoon finely
chopped parsley.

Clam Force-meat
Follow recipe for Oyster Force-meat, using soft part of clams in
place of oysters.

Chicken Force-meat I

1/2 cup fine stale bread crumbs
2/3 cup breast raw chicken

1/2 cup milk
Salt

2 tablespoons butter
Few grains cayenne

White 1 egg
Slight grating nutmeg

Cook bread and milk to a paste, add butter, white of egg beaten
stiff, and seasonings; then add chicken pounded and forced
through puree strainer.

Chicken Force-meat II

1/2 breast raw chicken
Pepper

White 1 egg
Slight grating nutmeg

Salt
Heavy cream

Chop chicken finely, or force through a meat chopper. Pound in
mortar, add gradually white of egg, and work until smooth; then
add heavy cream slowly until of right consistency, which can only
be determined by cooking a small ball in boiling salted water. Add
seasonings, and rub through sieve.

Quenelles
Quenelles are made from any kind of force-meat, shaped in small
balls or between tablespoons, making an oval, or by forcing
mixture through pastry bag on buttered paper. They are cooked in
boiling salted water or stock, and are served as garnish to soups or
other dishes; when served with sauce, they are an entree.

Chapter XI. FISH.

THE meat of fish is the animal food next in importance to that of
birds and mammals. Fish meat, with but few exceptions, is less
stimulating and nourishing than meat of other animals, but is
usually easier of digestion. Salmon, mackerel, and eels are
exceptions to these rules, and should not be eaten by those of weak
digestion. White fish, on account of their easy digestibllity, are
especially desirable for those of sedentary habits. Fish is not
recommended for brain-workers on account of the large amount of
phosphorus (an element abounding largely in nerve tissue) which it
contains, but because of its easy digestibility. It is a conceded fact
that many fish contain less of this element than meat.

Fish meat is generally considered cheaper than meat of other
animals. This is true when compared with the better cuts of meat,
but not so when compared with cheaper cuts.

To obtain from fish its greatest value and flavor, it should be eaten
fresh, and in season. Turbot, which is improved by keeping, is the
only exception to this rule.

To Determine Freshness of Fish. Examine the flesh, and it should
be firm; the eyes and gills, and they should be bright.

Broiling and baking are best methods for cooking fish. White fish
may often be fried, but oily rarely. Frozen fish are undesirable, but
if used, should be thawed in cold water just before cooking.



On account of its strong odor, fish should never be put in an
ice-box with other food, unless closely covered. A tin lard pail will
be found useful for this purpose.

White and Oily Fish

White fish have fat secreted in the liver. Examples: cod, haddock,
trout, flounder, smelt, perch, etc.

Oily fish have fat distributed throughout the flesh. Examples:
salmon, eels, mackerel, bluefish, swordfish, shad, herring, etc.

Cod belongs to one of the most prolific fish families (Gadidoe),
and is widely distributed throughout the northern and temperate
seas of both hemispheres. On account of its abundance, cheapness,
and easy procurability, it forms, from an economical standpoint,
one of the most important fish foods. Cod have been caught
weighing over a hundred pounds, but average market cod weigh
from six to ten pounds; a six-pound cod measures about
twenty-three inches in length. Large cod are cut into steaks. The
skin of cod is white, heavily mottled with gray, with a white line
running the entire length of fish on either side. Cod is caught in
shallow or deep waters. Shallow-water cod (caught off rocks) is
called rock cod; deep-water cod is called off-shore cod. Rock cod
are apt to be wormy. Cod obtained off George's Banks,
Newfoundland, are called George's cod, and are commercially
known as the best fish. Quantities of cod are preserved by drying
and salting. Salted George's cod is the best brand on the market.
Cod is in season throughout the year.

Cod Liver Oil is obtained from cods' livers, and has great
therapeutic value. Isinglass, made from swimming bladder of cod,
nearly equals in quality that made from bladder of sturgeon.

Haddock is more closely allied to cod than any other fish. It is
smaller (its average weight being about four pounds), and
differently mottled. The distinguishing mark of the haddock is a
black line running the entire length of fish on either side. Haddock
is found in the same water and in company with cod, but not so
abundantly. Like cod, haddock is cheap, and in season throughout
the year. Haddock, when dried, smoked, and salted, is known
asFinnan Haddie.

Halibut is the largest of the flatfish family (Pleuronectid),
specimens having been caught weighing from three to four
hundred pounds. Small, or chicken, halibut is the kind usually
found in market, and weighs from fifteen to twenty-five pounds.
Halibut are distinctively cold-water fish, being caught in water at
from 32 degrees to 45 degrees F. They are found in the North
Atlantic and North Pacific oceans, where they are nearly identical.
The halibut has a compressed body, the skin on one side being
white, on the other light, or dark gray, and both eyes are found on
the dark side of head. Halibut is in season throughout the year.

Turbot (called little halibut) is a species of the flatfish family,
being smaller than halibut, and of more delicate flavor. Turbot are
in season from January to March.

Flounder is a small flatfish, which closely resembles the sole
which is caught in English waters, and is often served under that
name.

Trout are generally fresh-water fish, varying much in size and
skin-coloring. Lake trout, which are the largest, reach their greatest
perfection in Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, but are found
in many lakes. Salmon trout is the name applied to trout caught in
New York lakes. Brook trout, caught in brooks and small lakes,
are superior eating. Trout are in season from April to August, but a
few are found later.

Whitefish is the finest fish found in the Great Lakes.

Smelts are small salt-water fish, and are usually caught in
temperate waters at the mouths of rivers. New Brunswick and
Maine send large quantities of smelts to market. Selected smelts
are the largest in size, and command higher price. The
Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Law forbids their sale
from March 15th to June 1st. Smelts are always sold by the pound.

Bluefish belongs to the Pomatomid family. It is widely
distributed in temperate waters, taking different names in different
localities. In New England and the Middle States it is generally
called Bluefish, although in some parts called Snappers, or
Snapping Mackerel. In the Southern States it is called Greenfish. It
is in season in our markets from May to October; as it is frozen
and kept in cold storage from six to nine months, it may be
obtained throughout the year. The heavier the fish, the better its
quality. Bluefish weigh from one to eight pounds, and are from
fourteen to twenty-nine inches in length.

Mackerel is one of the best-known food fishes, and is caught in
North Atlantic waters. Its skin is lustrous dark blue above, with
wavy blackish lines, and silvery below. It sometimes attains a
length of eighteen inches, but is usually less. Mackerel weigh from
three-fourths of a pound to two pounds, and are sold by the piece.
They are in season from May 1st to September 1st. Mackerel,
when first in market, contain less fat than later in the season,
therefore are easier of digestion. The supply of mackerel varies
greatly from year to year, and some years is very small. Spanish
mackerel are found in waters farther south than common mackerel,
and in our markets command higher price.

Salmon live in both fresh and salt waters, always going, inland,
usually to the head of rivers, during the spawning season. The
young after a time seek salt water, but generally return to fresh
water. Penobscot River Salmon are the best, and come from Maine
and St. John, New Brunswick. The average weight of salmon is
from fifteen to twenty-five pounds, and the flesh is of pinkish
orange color. Salmon are in season from May to September, but
frozen salmon may be obtained the greater part of the year. In the
Columbia River and its tributaries salmon are so abundant that
extensive canneries are built along the banks.

Shad, like salmon, are found in both salt and fresh water, always
ascending rivers for spawning. Shad is caught on the Atlantic
Coast of the United States, and its capture constitutes one of the
most important fisheries. Shad have a silvery hue, which becomes
bluish on the back; they vary in length from eighteen to
twenty-eight inches, and are always sold by the piece, price being
irrespective of size. Jack shad are usually cheaper than roe shad.
The roe of shad is highly esteemed. Shad are in season from
January to June. First shad in market come from Florida, and retail
from one and one-half to two dollars each. The finest come from
New Brunswick, and appear in market about the first of May.

Caviare is the salted roe of the sturgeon.

Herring are usually smoked, or smoked and salted, and, being very
cheap, are a most economical food.

SHELLFISH

I. Bivalve Mollusks

Oysters are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right
and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The
one upon which the oyster rests grows faster, becomes deeper, and
is known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament,
which, on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing
of the shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is
attached to the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver
(which containsglycogen, animal starch), and is partially
surrounded by fluted layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster
beds (or banks) are found in shallow salt water having stony
bottom, along the entire Atlantic Coast. The oyster industry of the
world is chiefly in the United States and France, and on account of
its increase many artificial beds have been prepared for oyster
culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable for eating. Blue
Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name from Blue
Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came. Their
popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for
the demand, and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue
Points. During the oyster season they form the first course of a
dinner, served raw on the half-shell. In our markets, selected
oysters (which are extremely large and used for broiling)
Providence River, and Norfolk oysters are familiarly known, and
taken out of the shells, are sold by the quart. Farther south, they are
sold by count.

Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from
September to May. During the summer months they are flabby and
of poor flavor, although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome.
Mussels, eaten in England and other parts of Europe, are similar to
oysters, though of inferior quality. Oysters are nutritious and of
easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw.

To Open Oysters. Put a thin flat knife under the back end of the
right valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which
holds the shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve
may be raised and separated from the left.

To Clean Oysters. Put oysters in a strainer placed over a bowl.
Pour over oysters cold water, allowing one-half cup water to each
quart oysters. Carefully pick over oysters, taking each one
separately in the fingers, to remove any particles of shell which
adhere to tough muscle.

Clams, among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters.
They are found just below the surface of sand and mud, above
low-water mark, and are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams
have hard or soft shells. Soft-shell clams are dear to the New
Englander. From New York to Florida are found hard-shelled
clams (quahaugs). Small quahaugs are called Little Neck Clams
and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when Blue Points are
out of season.

Scallops are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island
Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible
portion, and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season
from October first to April first.

II. Crustaceans

Lobsters belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live
exclusively in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are
caught in pots set on gravelly bottoms. The largest and best species
are found in Atlantic waters from Maine to New Jersey, being
most abundant on Maine and Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have
been found weighing from sixteen to twenty-five pounds, but such
have been exterminated from our coast. The average weight is two
pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches. Lobsters are
largest and most abundant from June to September, but are
obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of
mottled dark green color, except when found on sandy bottoms,
when they are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the
shell to turn red.

A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of
small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are
various small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and
short pair of feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of
appendages. In the female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found,
during the breeding season, the spawn, known as coral. Sex is
determined by the pair of appendages in the tail which lie nearest
the body; in the female they are soft and pliable, in the male hard
and stiff. At one time small lobsters were taken in such quantities
that it was feared, if the practice was long continued, they would
be exterminated. To protect the continuance of lobster fisheries, a
law has been passed in many States prohibiting their sale unless at
least ten inches long.

Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are
outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive
characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after
twenty-four hours' exposure to the water are quite hard.

Lobsters, being coarse feeders (taking almost any animal substance
attainable), are difficult of digestion, and with some create great
gastric disturbance; notwithstanding, they are seldom found
diseased.

To Select a Lobster. Take in the hand, and if heavy in proportion
to its size, the lobster is fresh. Straighten the tail, and if it springs
into place the lobster was alive (as it should have been) when put
into the pot for boiling. There is greater shrinkage in lobsters than
in any other fish.

To Open Lobsters. Take off large claws, small claws, and separate
tail from body. Tail meat may sometimes be drawn out whole with
a fork; more often it is necessary to cut the thin shell portion
(using scissors or a canopener) in under part of the tail, then the
tail meat may always be removed whole. Separate tail meat
through centre, and remove the small intestinal vein which runs its
entire length; although generally darker than the meat, it is
sometimes found of the same color. Hold body shell firmly in left
hand, and with first two fingers and thumb of right hand draw out
the body, leaving in shell the stomach (known as the lady), which
is not edible, and also some of the green part, the liver. The liver
may be removed by shaking the shell. The sides of the body are
covered with the lungs; these are always discarded. Break body
through the middle and separate body bones, picking out meat that
lies between them, which is some of the sweetest and tenderest to
be found. Separate large claws at joints. If shells are thin, with a
knife cut off a strip down the sharp edge, so that shell may be
broken apart and meat removed whole. Where shell is thick, it
must be broken with a mallet or hammer. Small claws are used for
garnishing. The shell of body, tail, and lower part of large claws, if
not broken, may be washed, dried, and used for serving of lobster
meat after it has been prepared. The portions of lobsters which are
not edible are lungs, stomach (lady), and intestinal vein.

Crabs among Crustaceans are next in importance to lobsters,
commercially speaking. They are about two and one-half inches
long by five inches wide, and are found along the Atlantic Coast
from Massachusetts to Florida, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Crabs,
like lobsters, change their shells. Soft-shell crabs are those which
have recently shed their old shells, and the new shells have not had
time to harden; these are considered by many a great luxury.
Oyster crabs (very small crabs found in shells with oysters) are a
delicacy not often indulged in. Crabs are in season during the
spring and summer.

Shrimps are found largely in our Southern waters, the largest and
best coming from Lake Pontchartrain. They are about two inches
long, covered with a thin shell, and are boiled and sent to market
with heads removed. Their grayish color is changed to pink by
boiling. Shrimps are in season from May first to October first, and
are generally used for salads. Canned shrimps are much used and
favorably known.

Reptiles. Frogs and terrapin belong to a lower order of animals
than fish, reptiles. They are both table delicacies, and are eaten by
the few.

Only the hind legs of frogs are eaten, and have much the same
flavor as chicken.

Terrapin, although sold in our large cities, specially belong to
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, where they are cooked
and served at their best. They are shipped from the South, packed
in seaweed, and may be kept for some time in a dark place.
Terrapin are found in both fresh and salt water. The Diamond
Back, salt-water terrapin, coming from Chesapeake Bay, are
considered the best, and command a very high price. Terrapin
closely resembling Diamond Back, coming from Texas and
Florida, are principally sold in our markets. Terrapin are in season
from November to April, but are best in January, February, and
March. They should always be cooked alive.

TO PREPARE FISH FOR COOKING

To Clean a Fish. Fish are cleaned and dressed at market as
ordered, but need additional cleaning before cooking. Remove
scales which have not been taken off. This is done by drawing a
knife over fish, beginning at tail and working towards head,
occasionally wiping knife and scales from fish. Incline knife
slightly towards you to prevent scales from flying. The largest
number of scales will be found on the flank. Wipe thoroughly
inside and out with cloth wrung out of cold water, removing any
clotted blood which may be found adhering to backbone.

Head and tail may or may not be removed, according to size of fish
and manner of cooking. Small fish are generally served with head
and tail left on.

To Skin a Fish. With sharp knife remove fins along the back and
cut off a narrow strip of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin
on one side from bony part of gills, and being once started, if fish
is fresh, it may be readily drawn off; if flesh is soft do not work too
quickly, as it will be badly torn. By allowing knife to closely
follow skin this may be avoided. After removing skin from one
side, turn fish and skin the other side.

To Bone a Fish. Clean and skin before boning. Beginning at the
tail, run a sharp knife under flesh close to backbone, and with
knife follow bone (making as clean a cut as possible) its entire
length, thus accomplishing the removal of one-half the flesh; turn,
and remove flesh from other side. Pick out with fingers any small
bones that may remain. Cod, haddock, halibut, and whitefish are
easily and frequently boned; flounders and smelts occasionally.

To Fillet Fish. Clean, skin, and bone. A piece of fish, large or
small, freed from skin and bones, is known as a fillet. Halibut, cut
in three-fourths inch slices, is more often cut in fillets than any
kind of fish, and fillets are frequently rolled. When flounder is cut
in fillets it is served under the name of fillet of sole. Sole found in
English waters is much esteemed, and flounder is our nearest
approach to it.

WAYS OF COOKING FISH

To Cook Fish in Boiling Water. Small cod, haddock, or cusk are
cooked whole in enough boiling water to cover, to which is added
salt and lemon juice or vinegar. Salt gives flavor; lemon juice or
vinegar keeps the flesh white. A long fish-kettle containing a rack
on which to place fish is useful but rather expensive. In place of
fish-kettle, if the fish is not too large to be coiled in it, a
frying-basket may be used placed in any kettle.

Large fish are cut in thick pieces for boiling, containing the
number of pounds required. Examples: salmon and halibut.

Pieces cut from large fish for boiling should be cleaned and tied in
a piece of cheesecloth to prevent scum being deposited on the fish.
If skin is not removed before serving scald the dark skin and
scrape to remove coloring; this may be easily accomplished by
holding fish on two forks, and lowering into boiling water the part
covered with black skin; then remove and scrape. Time required
for boiling fish depends on extent of surface exposed to water.
Consult Time-Table for Boiling, which will serve as a guide. The
fish is cooked when flesh leaves the bone, no matter how long the
time.

To Broil Fish. God, haddock, bluefish, and mackerel are split
down the back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not,
as desired. Salmon, chicken halibut, and swordfish are cut in inch
slices for broiling. Smelts and other small fish are broiled whole,
without splitting. Clean and wipe fish as dry as possible, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and place in well-greased wire broiler. Slices
of fish should be turned often while broiling; whole fish should be
first broiled on flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just
long enough to make skin brown and crisp.

To remove from broiler, loosen fish on one side, turn and loosen
on other side; otherwise flesh will cling to broiler. Slip from
broiler to hot platter, or place platter over fish and invert platter
and broiler together.

To Bake Fish. Clean, and bake on a greased fish-sheet placed in a
dripping-pan. If a fish-sheet is not at hand, place strips of cotton
cloth under fish, by which it may be lifted from pan.

To Fry Fish. Clean fish, and wipe as dry as possible Sprinkle with
salt, dip in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

To Saute Fish. Prepare as for frying, and cook in frying-pan with
small amount of fat; or, if preferred, dip in granulated corn meal.
Cod steak and smelts are often cooked in this way.

TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH
USED FOR FOOD

Articles
Refuse
Proteid
Fat
Mineral matter
Water

Bass, black
54.8
9.3
.8
.5
34.6

Bluefish
55.7
8.3
.5
.5
35.

Butterfish
42.8
10.2
6.3
.6
40.1

Cod, fresh
52.5
8.
.2
.6
38.7

Cod, salt, boneless

22.2
.3
23.1
54.4

Cusk
40.3
10.1
.1
.5
49.

Eels
20.2
14.6
7.2
.8
57.2

Flounder
61.5
5.6
.3
.5
32.1

Haddock
51.
8.2
.2
.6
40.

Halibut, sections
17.7
15.1
4.4
.9
61.9

Herring
42.6
10.9
3.9
.9
41.7

Mackerel
44.6
10.
4.3
.7
40.4

Mackerel, Spanish
34.6
13.7
6.2
1.
44.5

Perch, white
62.5
7.2
1.5
.4
28.4

Pickerel
47.1
9.8
.2
.7
42.2

Pompano
45.5
10.2
4.3
.5
39.5

Red Snapper
46.1
10.6
.6
.7
42.

Salmon
39.2
12.4
8.1
.9
39.4

Shad
50.1
9.2
4.8
.7
35.2

Carbohydrates

Shad, roe
2.6
20.9
3.8
1.5
71.2

Refuse

Sheepshead
66.
6.4
.2
.5
26.9

Smelts
41.9
10.
1.
1.
46.1

Trout
48.1
9.8
1.1
.6
40.4

Turbot
47.7
6.8
7.5
.7
37.3

Whitefish
53.5
10.3
3.
.7
32.5

Carbohydrates

Lobsters
61.7
5.9
.7
.8
.2
30.7

Clams, out of shell

10.6
1.1
2.3
5.2
80.8

Oysters, solid

6.1
1.4
.9
3.3
88.3

Crabs, soft shell

15.8
1.5
2.
.7
80.

W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.

Boiled Haddock

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Remove to a
hot platter, garnish with slices of "hard-boiled" eggs and parsley,
and serve with Egg Sauce. A thick piece of halibut may be boiled
and served in the same way.

Boiled Salmon

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Place on a hot
platter, remove skin, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley.
Serve with Egg Sauce I or II, or Hollandaise Sauce.

Steamed Halibut, Silesian Sauce

Steam by cooking over boiling water a piece of halibut weighing
two pounds, and serve with Silesian Sauce.

11/2 tablespoons vinegar
Yolks 3 eggs
1/8 teaspoon powdered tarragon
2/3 cup Brown Stock
3 peppercorns
1/4 cup butter
Bit of bay leaf
1 tablespoon flour
Sprig of parsley
1/2 tablespoon capers
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped shallot
1/2 tablespoon parsley
Salt and cayenne

Cook first six ingredients until reduced one-half; strain, add yolks
of eggs well beaten, one-half, each, brown stock and butter, and
cook over hot water, stirring constantly until thickened. Then add,
gradually, remaining butter mixed with flour and stock. As soon as
mixture thickens, add capers, parsley finely chopped, and salt and
cayenne.

Broiled Scrod

A young cod, split down the back, and backbone removed, except
a small portion near the tail, is called a scrod. Scrod are usually
broiled, spread with butter, and sprinkled with salt and pepper.
Haddock is also so dressed.

Broiled Chicken Halibut

Clean and broil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Spread with
butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and garnish with slices of
lemon cut in fancy shapes and sprinkled with paprika and parsley.

Broiled Swordfish

Clean and broil fish, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and serve with Cucumber Sauce I, or Horseradish Sauce I.

Broiled Shad Roe

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire broiler,
and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with Matre d'Htel
Butter. Mackerel roe are delicious cooked in this way.

Broiled Pompano with Fricassee of Clams
Clean and broil fish as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish . When
nearly cooked, slip from broiler onto a hot platter and brush over
with melted butter. Surround with two borders of mashed potatoes,
one-inch apart, forced through a pastry bag and tube. Arrange ten
halves of clam-shells between potato borders, at equal distances;
fill spaces between shells with potato roses. Place in oven to finish
cooking fish and to brown potatoes. Just before serving, fill
clam-shells with

Fricassee of Clams. Clean one pint clams, finely chop hard
portions and reserve soft portions. Melt two tablespoons butter,
add chopped clams, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually
one-third cup cream. Strain sauce, add soft part of clams, cook one
minute, season with salt and cayenne, and add yolk of one egg
slightly beaten.

Baked Haddock with Stuffing

Clean a four-pound haddock, sprinkle with salt inside and out,
stuff, and sew. Cut five diagonal gashes on each side of backbone
and insert narrow strips of fat salt pork, having gashes on one side
come between gashes on other side. Shape with skewers in form of
letter S, and fasten skewers with small twine. Place on greased
fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush
over with melted butter, dredge with flour, and place around fish
small pieces of fat salt pork. Bake one hour in hot oven, basting as
soon as fat is tried out, and continue basting every ten minutes.
Serve with Drawn Butter, Egg, or Hollandaise Sauce. Garnish with
lemon and parsley.

Fish Stuffing I

1/2 cup cracker crumbs=4 crackers
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup melted butter
Few drops onion juice
1/4 cup hot water

Mix ingredients in order given.

Fish Stuffing II

1 cup cracker crumbs
Few drops onion juice
1/4 cup melted butter
Parsley
1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Capers 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Pickles 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped

Mix ingredients in order given. This makes a dry, crumbly
stuffing.

Baked Bluefish

Clean a four-pound bluefish, stuff, sew, and bake as Baked Halibut
with Stuffing, omitting to cut gashes on sides, as the fish is rich
enough without addition of pork. Baste often with one-third cup
butter melted in two-thirds cup boiling water. Serve with Shrimp
Sauce.

Breslin Baked Bluefish

Split and bone a bluefish, place on a well-buttered sheet, and cook
twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cream one-fourth cup butter, add
yolks two eggs, and when well mixed add two tablespoons, each,
onion, capers, pickles, and parsley, finely chopped; two
tablespoons lemon juice, one tablespoon vinegar, one-half
teaspoon salt, and one-third teaspoon paprika. Sprinkle fish with
salt, spread with mixture, and continue the baking until fish is
done. Remove to serving-dish and garnish with potato balls,
cucumber ribbons, lemon cut in fancy shapes, and parsley.

Bluefish a l'Italienne

Clean a four-pound bluefish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put
on buttered fish-sheet in a dripping-pan. Add three tablespoons
white wine, three tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half onion
finely chopped, eight mushrooms finely chopped, and enough
water to allow sufficient liquor in pan for basting. Bake forty-five
minutes in hot oven, basting five times. Serve with Sauce a
l'Italienne.

Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing

Clean a four-pound cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over
with lemon juice, stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, and bake as Baked
Halibut with Stuffing. Serve with Oyster Sauce.

Oyster Stuffing

1 cup cracker crumbs
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 cup melted butter
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup oysters

Add seasonings and butter to cracker crumbs. Clean oysters, and
remove tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with two
tablespoons oyster liquor to moisten.

Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing

Remove skin, head, and tail from a four-pound haddock. Bone,
leaving in large bones near head, to keep fillets in shape of the
original fish. Sprinkle with salt, and brush over with lemon juice.
Lay one fillet on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, cover thickly
with oysters, cleaned and dipped in buttered cracker crumbs
seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover oysters with other fillet,
brush with egg slightly beaten, cover with buttered crumbs, and
bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with Hollandaise
Sauce I. Allow one pint oysters and one cup cracker crumbs.

Baked Halibut with Tomato Sauce

2 lbs. halibut
1/2 tablespoon sugar
2 cups tomatoes
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup water
3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 cloves
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook twenty minutes tomatoes, water, onion, cloves, and sugar.
Melt butter, add flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add salt and
pepper, cook ten minutes, and strain. Clean fish, put in baking-pan,
pour around half the sauce, and bake thirty-five minutes, basting
often. Remove to hot platter, pour around remaining sauce, and
garnish with parsley.

Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce

Clean a piece of halibut weighing three pounds. Cut gashes in top,
and insert a narrow strip of fat salt pork in each gash. Place in
dripping-pan on fish-sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
dredge with flour. Cover bottom of pan with water, add sprig of
parsley, slice of onion, two slices carrot cut in pieces, and bit of
bay leaf. Bake one hour, basting with one-fourth cup butter and the
liquor in pan. Serve with Lobster Sauce.

Hollenden Halibut

Arrange six thin slices fat salt pork two and one-half inches square
in a dripping-pan. Cover with one small onion, thinly sliced, and
add a bit of bay leaf. Wipe a two-pound piece of chicken halibut
and place over pork and onion. Mask with three tablespoons butter
creamed and mixed with three tablespoons flour. Cover with
three-fourths cup buttered cracker crumbs and arrange thin strips
of fat salt pork over crumbs. Cover with buttered paper and bake
fifty minutes in a moderate oven, removing paper during the last
fifteen minutes of the cooking to brown crumbs. Remove to hot
serving dish and garnish with slices of lemon cut in fancy shapes
sprinkled with finely chopped parsley and paprika. Serve with
White Sauce II, using fat in pan in place of butter.

Baked Mackerel

Split fish, clean, and remove head and tail. Put in buttered
dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot over with
butter (allowing one tablespoon to a medium-sized fish), and pour
over two-thirds cup milk. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven.

Planked Shad or Whitefish

Clean and split a three-pound shad. Put skin side down on a
buttered oak plank one inch thick, and a little longer and wider
than the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with
melted butter. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from
oven, spread with butter, and garnish with parsley and lemon. The
fish should be sent to the table on plank. Planked Shad is well
cooked in a gas range having the flame over the fish.

The Planked Whitefish of the Great Lakes has gained much favor.

Planked Shad with Creamed Roe
Select a roe shad and prepare same as Planked Shad. Parboil roe in
salted, acidulated water twenty minutes. Remove outside
membrane, and mash. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one
teaspoon finely chopped shallot, and cook five minutes; add roe,
sprinkle with one and one-half tablespoons flour, and pour on
gradually one-third cup cream. Cook slowly five minutes, add two
egg yolks and season highly with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
Remove shad from oven, spread thin part with roe mixture, cover
with buttered crumbs, and return to oven to brown crumbs.
Garnish with mashed potatoes forced through a pastry bag and
tube, small tomatoes, slices of lemon and parsley.

Planked Haddock

Skin and bone a haddock, leaving meat in two fillets. Remove to
buttered plank, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with
melted butter and bake thirty minutes. Garnish with mashed
potatoes, outlining the original shape of the fish, making as
prominent as possible head, tail, and fins. Bake until potatoes are
well browned, when fish should be thoroughly cooked. Finish
garnishing with parsley and slices of lemon sprinkled with finely
chopped parsley.

Baked Stuffed Smelts

Clean and wipe as dry as possible twelve selected smelts. Stuff,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice.
Place in buttered shallow plate, cover with buttered paper, and
bake five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, sprinkle with
buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Serve with
Sauce Bearnaise.

Stuffing. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion with one
tablespoon butter three minutes. Add one-fourth cup finely
chopped mushrooms, one-fourth cup soft part of oysters
(parboiled, drained, and chopped), one-half teaspoon chopped
parsley, three tablespoons Thick White Sauce, and one-half cup
Fish Force-meat.

Smelts a la Langtry

Split and bone eight selected smelts. Cut off tails, and from tail
ends of fish turn meat over one inch onto flesh side. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Garnish with
Fish Force-meat forced through a pastry bag and tube, and fasten
heads with skewers to keep in an upright position. Arrange in a
buttered pan, and pour around white wine. Cover with buttered
paper, and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. Just before taking
from oven, sprinkle with lobster coral forced through a strainer.
Serve with Aurora Sauce.

Aurora Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons
flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups cream and one
tablespoon meat extract. Season with salt and cayenne, and add
lobster coral and one-half cup lobster dice.

Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce

Cook shad roe fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover,
with one-half tablespoon vinegar; drain, cover with cold water, and
let stand five minutes. Remove from cold water, and place on
buttered pan with three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce I or II. Bake
twenty minutes in hot oven, basting every five minutes. Remove to
a platter, and pour around three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce.

Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut

Cut bass or halibut into small fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
put into a shallow pan, cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve
minutes in hot oven. Arrange on a rice border, garnish with
parsley, and serve with Hollandaise Sauce II.

Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce

Cut a slice of halibut weighing one and one-half pounds in eight
short fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in greased pan, and
bake five minutes; drain, pour over one and one-half cups Brown
Sauce I, cover with one-half cup buttered cracker crumbs, and
bake.

Fillets of Haddock, White Wine Sauce

Skin a three and one-half pound haddock, and cut in fillets.
Arrange in buttered baking-pan, pour around fish three tablespoons
melted butter, three-fourths cup white wine to which has been
added one-half tablespoon lemon juice, and two slices onion.
Cover and bake. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons
flour, and pour on liquor drained from fish; then add one-half cup
Fish Stock (made from head, tail, and bones of fish), two
tablespoons heavy cream, yolks two eggs, salt, and pepper.
Remove fillets to serving dish, pour over sauce strained through
cheesecloth, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Halibut a la Poulette

A slice of halibut, weighing 11/2 lbs.
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 cup melted butter
Few drops onion juice
1/4 teaspoon salt

Clean fish and cut in eight fillets. Add seasonings to melted butter,
and put dish containing butter in saucepan of hot water to keep
butter melted. Take up each fillet separately with a fork, dip in
butter, roll and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Put in a
shallow pan, dredge with flour, and bake twelve minutes in hot
oven. Remove skewers, arrange on platter for serving, pour around
one and one-half cups Bechamel Sauce, and garnish with yolks of
two hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a strainer, whites of
hard-boiled eggs cut in strips, lemon cut fan-shaped, and parsley.

Moulded Fish, Normandy Sauce

Remove skin and bones from a thick piece of halibut, finely chop
fish, and force through a sieve (there should be one and one-third
cups). Pound in mortar, adding gradually whites two eggs. Add one
and one-fourth cups heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to
taste. Turn into a buttered fish-mould, cover with buttered paper,
set in pan of hot water, and bake until fish is firm. Turn on serving
dish and surround with

Normandy Sauce. Cook skin and bones of fish with three slices
carrot, one slice onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth
teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water, thirty minutes,
and strain; there should be one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter,
add three tablespoons flour, fish stock, one-third cup heavy cream.
Bring to boiling point and add yolks two eggs. Season with salt,
pepper, cayenne, and one tablespoon Sauterne.

Halibut a la Martin

Clean two slices chicken halibut and cut into eight fillets. Season
with salt, brush over with lemon juice and roll. Arrange on a tin
plate covered with cheesecloth, fold cheesecloth over fillets, and
cook in steamer fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish
with small shrimps, and pour around sauce, following directions
for Normandy Sauce, omitting Sauterne, and seasoning to taste
with grated cheese and Madeira.

Fillets of Fish a la Bement

Prepare and cook fish same as for Halibut a la Martin. Insert tip of
small lobster claw in each fillet, and garnish with a thin slice of
canned mushroom sprinkled with parsley and a thin circular slice
of truffle. Serve with

Lobster Sauce III. Remove meat from a one and one-half pound
lobster and cut claw meat in cubes. Cover remaining meat and
body bones with cold water. Add one-half small onion, sprig of
parsley, bit of bay leaf, and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and
cook until stock is reduced to one cup. Melt three tablespoons
butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the
stock; then add one-half cup heavy cream and yolks two eggs.
Season with salt, lemon juice, and paprika; then add lobster cubes.

Halibut a la Rarebit

Sprinkle two small slices halibut with salt, pepper, and lemon
juice; then brush over with melted butter, place in dripping-pan on
greased fish-sheet, and bake twelve minutes. Remove to hot platter
for serving, and pour over it a Welsh Rarebit.

Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut

Cut chicken halibut in thin fillets. Put together in pairs, with Fish
or Chicken Force-meat between, first dipping fillets in melted
butter seasoned with salt and pepper and brushing over with lemon
juice. Place in shallow pan with one-fourth cup white wine. Bake
twenty minutes in hot oven. Arrange on hot platter for serving,
sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, garnish with Tomato Jelly,
and serve with Hollandaise Sauce.

Sole a la Bercy

Skin and bone two large flounders, and cut into eight fillets. Put
into a buttered pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice,
and add one-fourth cup white wine. Cover and cook fifteen
minutes. Remove to serving dish, pour over Bercy Sauce, and
sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Bercy Sauce. Fry one tablespoon finely chopped shallot in one
tablespoon butter five minutes; add two tablespoons flour, and
pour on gradually the liquor left in pan with enough White Stock
to make one cup. Add two tablespoons butter, and salt and cayenne
to taste.

Halibut au Lit

Wipe two slices chicken halibut, each weighing three-fourths
pound. Cut one piece in eight fillets, sprinkle with salt and lemon
juice, roll and fasten with small wooden skewers. Cook over
boiling water. Cut remaining slice in pieces about the size and
shape of scallops. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep
fat. Arrange a steamed fillet in centre of each fish-plate, place on
top of each a cooked mushroom cap, and put fried fish at both
right and left of fillet. Serve with Mushroom Sauce, and garnish
with watercress and radishes cut in fancy shapes.

Mushroom Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly,
one cup Fish Stock. When boiling-point is reached, add one-half
cup cream, three mushroom caps, sliced, and one tablespoon
Sauterne. Season with salt and pepper. The Fish Stock should be
made from skin and bones of halibut. The mushroom caps on
fillets should be cooked in sauce until soft.

Fried Cod Steaks

Clean steaks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dip in granulated
corn meal. Try out slices of fat salt pork in frying-pan, remove
scraps, and saute steaks in fat.

Fried Smelts

Clean smelts, leaving on heads and tails. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry three to four minutes
in deep fat. As soon as smelts are put into fat, remove fat to back
of range so that they may not become too brown before cooked
through. Arrange on hot platter, garnish with parsley, lemon, and
fried gelatine. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

Smelts are fried without being skewered, but often are skewered in
variety of shapes.

To fry gelatine. Take up a few shreds and drop in hot, deep fat; it
will immediately swell and become white; it should at once be
removed with a skimmer, then drained.

Phosphated or granulated gelatine cannot be used for frying.

Smelts  la Meniere

Clean six selected smelts, and cut five diagonal gashes on each
side. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and let
stand ten minutes. Roll in cream, dip in flour, and saute in butter.
Add to butter in pan two tablespoons flour, one cup White Stock,
one and one-third teaspoons Anchovy Essence, and a few drops
lemon juice. Just before sauce is poured around smelts, add one
add one-half tablespoons butter and one teaspoon finely chopped
parsley.

Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder

Clean fish and cut in long or short fillets. If cut in long fillets, roll,
and fasten with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle fillets with salt
and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and
drain on brown paper. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

Fried Fish, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce

Cut two slices chicken halibut in fillets, sprinkle fillets with salt
and pepper, pour over one-third cup white wine, cover, and let
stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip each piece separately in heavy
cream, then in flour, and fry in deep fat. Cook skin and bones
removed from fish with five slices carrot, two slices onion, sprig
parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two
cups cold water until reduced to one cup liquid. Make sauce of two
tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, the fish stock, and
one-third cup heavy cream. Add yolks two eggs, salt, pepper,
cayenne, and white wine to taste.

Arrange fish on serving dish, cover with one-half pound mushroom
caps cleaned, then sauted in butter, and pour over sauce.

Fried Eels

Clean eels, cut in two-inch pieces, and parboil eight minutes.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in corn meal, and saute in pork
fat.

Fried Stuffed Smelts

Smelts are stuffed as for Baked Stuffed Smelts, dipped in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, fried in deep fat, and served with Sauce Tartare.

Fried Shad Roe

Parboil and cook shad roe as for Baked Shad Roe. Cut in pieces,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice.
Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Soft-shell Crabs.

Clean crabs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Being light, they will rise to top
of fat, and should be turned while frying. Soft-shell crabs are
usually fried. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

To Clean a Crab. Lift and fold back the tapering points which are
found on each side of the back shell, and remove spongy substance
that lies under them. Turn crab on its back, and with a pointed
knife remove the small piece at lower part of shell, which
terminates in a point; this is called the apron.

Frogs' Hind Legs

Trim and clean. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg,
and crumbs again, then fry three minutes in deep fat, and drain.

Terrapin

To prepare terrapin for cooking, plunge into boiling water and boil
five minutes. Lift out of water with skimmer, and remove skin
from feet and tail by rubbing with a towel. Draw out head with a
skewer, and rub off skin.

To Cook Terrapin. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water,
add two slices each of carrot and onion, and a stalk of celery. Cook
until meat is tender, which may be determined by pressing
feet-meat between thumb and finger. The time required will be
from thirty-five to forty minutes. Remove from water, cool, draw
out nails from feet, cut under shell close to upper shell and
remove. Empty upper shell and carefully remove and discard
gall-bladder, sand-bags, and thick, heavy part of intestines. Any of
the gall-bladder would give a bitter flavor to the dish. The liver,
small intestines, and eggs are used with the meat.

Terrapin a la Baltimore

1 terrapin
Cayenne
3/4 cup White Stock
11/2 tablespoons butter
11/2 tablespoons wine
Salt and pepper
Yolks 2 eggs

To stock and wine add terrapin meat, with bones cut in pieces and
entrails cut in smaller pieces; then cook slowly until liquor is
reduced one-half. Add liver separated in pieces, eggs, butter, salt,
pepper, and cayenne.

Terrapin a la Maryland

Add to Terrapin  la Baltimore one tablespoon each butter and
flour creamed together, one-half cup cream, yolks two eggs
slightly beaten, and one teaspoon lemon juice; then add, just
before serving, one tablespoon Sherry wine. Pour in a deep dish
and garnish with toast or puff-paste points.

Washington Terrapin

1 terrapin
1/2 cup chopped mushrooms
11/2 tablespoons butter
Salt
11/2 tablespoons flour
Few grains cayenne
1 cup cream
2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on slowly the cream. Add
terrapin meat with bones cut in pieces, entrails cut smaller, liver
separated in pieces, eggs of terrapin, and mushrooms. Season with
salt and cayenne. Just before serving, add eggs slightly beaten and
two tablespoons Sherry wine.

WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH

Fish a la Creme

13/4 cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
Sprig of parsley
1/2 slice onion
Salt and pepper
1 cup White Sauce I
1/2 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Bit of bay leaf

Scald milk, for the making of White Sauce, with bay leaf, parsley,
and onion. Cover the bottom of small buttered platter with
one-half of the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over
one-half the sauce; repeat. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot
oven until crumbs are brown. Fish a la crme, baked in scallop
shells, makes an attractive luncheon dish, or may be served for a
fish course at dinner.

Turban of Fish

21/2 cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk)
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
11/2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 slice onion
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Blade of mace
Lemon juice
Sprig of parsley
Yolks 2 eggs
2/3 cup buttered cracker crumbs


Scald milk with onion, mace, and parsley; remove seasonings.
Melt butter, add flour, salt, pepper, and gradually the milk; then
add eggs, slightly beaten. Put a layer of fish on buttered dish,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a few drops of lemon juice.
Cover with sauce, continuing until fish and sauce are used, shaping
in pyramid form. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until
crumbs are brown.

Fish Hash

Take equal parts of cold flaked fish and cold boiled potatoes finely
chopped. Season with salt and pepper. Try out fat salt pork,
remove scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and
potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until
well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.

Fish Croquettes

To one and one-half cups cold flaked halibut or salmon add one
cup thick White Sance. Season with salt and pepper, and spread on
a plate to cool. Shape, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in
deep fat; drain, arrange on hot dish for serving, and garnish with
parsley. If salmon is used, add lemon juice and finely chopped
parsley.

Fish and Egg Croquettes

Make same as Fish Croquettes, using one cup fish and three
"hard-boiled" eggs finely chopped.

Scalloped Cod

Line a buttered baking-dish with cold flaked cod, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, cover with a layer of oysters (first dipped in melted
butter, seasoned with onion juice, lemon juice, and a few grains of
cayenne, and then in cracker crumbs), add three tablespoons oyster
liquor; repeat, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake
twenty minutes in hot oven. Serve with Egg or Hollandaise Sauce
I.

Salmon Box

Line a bread pan, slightly buttered, with warm steamed rice. Fill
the centre with cold boiled salmon, flaked, and seasoned with salt,
pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cover with rice and steam
one hour. Turn on a hot platter for serving, and pour around Egg
Sauce II.

WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH

Creamed Salt Codfish

Pick salt codfish in pieces (there should be three-fourths cup), and
soak in lukewarm water, the time depending upon hardness and
saltness of the fish. Drain, and add one cup White Sauce I. Add
one beaten egg just before sending to table. Garnish with slices of
hard-boiled eggs. Creamed Codfish is better made with cream
slightly thickened in place of White Sauce.

Fish Balls

1 cup salt codfish
1 egg
2 heaping cups potatoes
1/2 tablespoon butter
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Wash fish in cold water, and pick in very small pieces, or cut,
using scissors. Wash, pare, and soak potatoes, cutting in pieces of
uniform size before measuring. Cook fish and potatoes in boiling
water to cover until potatoes are soft. Drain thoroughly through
strainer, return to kettle in which they were cooked, mash
thoroughly (being sure there are no lumps left in potato), add
butter, egg well beaten, and pepper. Beat with a fork two minutes.
Add salt if necessary. Take up by spoonfuls, put in frying-basket,
and fry one minute in deep fat, allowing six fish balls for each
frying; drain on brown paper. Reheat the fat after each frying.

Salted Codfish Hash

Prepare as for Fish Balls, omitting egg. Try out fat salt pork,
remove scrap, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and
potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until
well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.

Toasted Salt Fish

Pick salt codfish in long thin strips. If very salt, it may need to be
freshened by standing for a short time in lukewarm water. Place on
a greased wire broiler, and broil until brown on one side; turn, and
brown the other. Remove to platter, and spread with butter.

Kippered Herrings

Remove fish from can, and arrange on a platter that may be put in
the oven; sprinkle with pepper, brush over with lemon juice and
melted butter, and pour over the liquor left in can. Heat
thoroughly, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon.

Baked Finnan Haddie

Put fish in dripping-pan, surround with milk and water in equal
proportions, place on back of range, where it will heat slowly. Let
stand twenty-five minutes; pour off liquid, spread with butter, and
bake twenty-five minutes.

Broiled Finnan Haddie

Broil in a greased broiler until brown on both sides. Remove to a
pan, and cover with hot water; let stand ten minutes, drain, and
place on a platter. Spread with butter, and sprinkle with pepper.

Finnan Haddie a la Delmonico

Cut fish in strips (there should be one cup), put in baking-pan,
cover with cold water, place on back of range and allow water to
heat to boiling-point; let stand on range, keeping water below
boiling-point for twenty-five minutes, drain, and rinse thoroughly.
Separate fish into flakes, add one-half cup heavy cream and four
"hard-boiled" eggs thinly sliced. Season with cayenne, add one
tablespoon butter, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH

Oysters on the Half Shell

Serve oysters on deep halves of the shells, allowing six to each
person. Arrange on plates of crushed ice, with one-fourth of a
lemon in the centre of each plate.

Raw Oysters

Raw oysters are served on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Place
block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and garnish the base
with parsley and quarters of lemon, or ferns and lemon.

To Block Ice for Oysters. Use a rectangular piece of clear ice, and
with hot flatirons melt a cavity large enough to hold the oysters.
Pour water from cavity as rapidly as it forms.

Oyster Cocktail I

8 small raw oysters
2 drops Tabasco
1 tablespoon tomato catsup
Salt
1/2 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice
1 teaspoon celery, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

Mix ingredients, chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses, or
cases made from green peppers placed on a bed of crushed ice.

Oyster Cocktail II

6 small raw oysters
Lemon juice
Tabasco Sauce
Salt
Grape fruit

Cut grape fruit in halves crosswise, remove tough portions, and
add oysters seasoned with Tabasco, lemon juice, and salt.

Oyster Cocktail III

Allow seven Blue Point oysters to each person, and season with
three-fourth tablespoon lemon juice, one-half tablespoon tomato
catsup, one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three drops
Tabasco sauce, few gratings horseradish root, and salt to taste.
Chill thoroughly and serve in cocktail glasses. Sprinkle with finely
chopped celery and garnish with small pieces of red and green
pepper.

Roasted Oysters

Oysters for roasting should be bought in the shell. Wash
thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush. Put in a dripping-pan, and
cook in a hot oven until shells part. Open, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and serve in the deep halves of the shells.

Oysters a la Ballard

Arrange oysters on the half shell in a dripping-pan, and bake in a
hot oven until edges curl. Allow six to each serve, pouring over the
following sauce:

Mix three-fourths tablespoon melted butter, three-fourths teaspoon
each lemon juice and Sauterne, few drops Tabasco, one-fourth
teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and salt and paprika to taste.
Before putting ingredients in bowl, rub inside of bowl with a clove
of garlic.

Panned Oysters

Clean one pint large oysters. Place in dripping-pan small oblong
pieces of toast, put an oyster on each piece, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and bake until oysters are plump. Serve with Lemon
Butter.

Lemon Butter. Cream three tablespoons butter, add one-half
teaspoon salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, and a few grains
cayenne.

Fancy Roast

Clean one pint oysters and drain from their liquor. Put in a
stewpan and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl.
Shake pan to prevent oysters from adhering to pan, or stir with a
fork. Season with salt, pepper, and two tablespoons butter, and
pour over four small slices of toast. Garnish with toast points and
parsley.

Oyster Fricassee

1 pint oysters
1/4 teaspoon salt
Milk or cream
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour
1 egg

Clean oysters, heat oyster liquor to boiling-point, and strain
through double thickness of cheese-cloth; add oysters to liquor and
cook until plump. Remove oysters with skimmer and add enough
cream to liquor to make a cupful. Melt butter, add flour, and pour
on gradually hot liquid; add salt, cayenne, parsley, oysters, and egg
slightly beaten.

Creamed Oysters

1 pint oysters
11/2 cups White Sauce II
1/8 teaspoon celery salt

Clean, and cook oysters until plump and edges begin to curl; drain,
and add to White Sauce seasoned with celery salt. Serve on toast,
in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents. One-fourth cup
sliced mushrooms are often added to Creamed Oysters.

Oysters in Brown Sauce

1 pint oysters
1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon anchovy sauce
1 cup oyster liquor
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Parboil and drain oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, and set aside
for sauce. Brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned;
then add oyster liquor, milk, seasonings, and oysters. For filling
patty cases or vol-au-vents.

Savory Oysters

1 pint of oysters
1/2 cup Brown Stock
4 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
4 tablespoons flour
Few drops onion juice
1 cup oyster liquor
Salt
Pepper

Clean oysters, parboil, and drain. Melt butter, add flour, and stir
until well browned. Pour on gradually, while stirring constantly,
oyster liquor and stock. Add seasonings and oysters. Serve on
toast, in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents.

Oysters a la Astor

1 pint oysters
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons butter
11/2 teaspoons vinegar
1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon finely cut red pepper
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon beef extract
Salt and paprika

Wash and pick over oysters, parboil, drain, and to liquor add
enough water to make one cup liquid; then strain through
cheese-cloth. Cook butter, shallot, and pepper three minutes, add
flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster
liquor. Add seasonings and oysters. Remove oysters to small
pieces of bread sauted in butter on one side. Pour sauce over
oysters and garnish with thin slices of cucumber pickles.

Broiled Oysters

1 pint selected oysters
1/4 cup melted butter
2/3 cup seasoned cracker crumbs

Clean oysters and dry between towels. Lift with plated fork by the
tough muscle and dip in butter, then in cracker crumbs which have
been seasoned with salt and pepper. Place in a buttered wire
broiler and broil over a clear fire until juices flow, turning while
broiling. Serve with or without Matre d'Htel Butter.

Oyster Toast

Serve Broiled Oysters on small pieces of Milk Toast. Sprinkle with
finely chopped celery.

Oysters and Macaroni

1 pint oysters
Salt and pepper
3/4 cup macaroni broken in
Flour
1 inch pieces
1/2 cup buttered crumbs
1/4 cup butter

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and rinse
with cold water. Put a layer in bottom of a buttered pudding-dish,
cover with oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with
flour, and dot over with one-half of the butter; repeat, and cover
with buttered crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

Scalloped Oysters

1 pint oysters
1 cup cracker crumbs
4 tablespoons oyster liquor
1/2 cup melted butter
2 tablespoons milk or cream
Salt
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs
Pepper

Mix bread and cracker crumbs, and stir in butter. Put a thin layer
in bottom of a buttered shallow baking-dish, cover with oysters,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper; add one-half half each oyster
liquor and cream. Repeat, and cover top with remaining crumbs.
Bake thirty minutes in hot oven. Never allow more than two layers
of oysters for Scalloped Oysters; if three layers are used, the
middle layer will be underdone, while others are properly cooked.
A sprinkling of mace or grated nutmeg to each layer is considered
by many an improvement. Sherry wine may be used in place of
cream.

Sauted Oysters

Clean one pint oysters, sprinkle on both sides with salt and pepper.
Take up by the tough muscle with plated fork and dip in seasoned
cracker crumbs. Put two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add
oysters, brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other.

Oysters with Bacon

Clean oysters, wrap a thin slice of bacon around each, and fasten
with small wooden skewers. Put in a broiler, place broiler over
dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and
brown, turning broiler once during the cooking. Drain on brown
paper.

Fried Oysters

Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Season with salt
and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and cracker or stale bread crumbs,
and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded
napkin. Garnish with parsley and serve with or without Sauce
Tyrolienne.

Fried Oysters in Batter

Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Dip in batter, fry
in deep fat, drain, and serve on a folded napkin; garnish with
lemon and parsley. Oysters may be parboiled, drained, and then
fried.

Batter

2 eggs
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup bread flour
3/4 cup milk

Beat eggs until light, add salt and pepper. Add milk slowly to
flour, stir until smooth and well mixed. Combine mixtures.

Fried Oysters. Philadelphia Relish

Follow directions for Fried Oysters. Serve with Philadelphia
Relish.
2 cups cabbage, finely shredded
1/4 teaspoon mustard seed
2 green peppers, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon celery seed
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given.

Little Neck Clams

Little Neck Clams are served raw on the half shell, in same
manner as raw oysters.

Steamed Clams

Clams for steaming should be bought in the shell and always be
alive. Wash clams thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, changing
the water several times. Put into a large kettle, allowing one-half
cup hot water to four quarts clams; cover closely, and steam until
shells partially open, care being taken that they are not overdone.
Serve with individual dishes of melted butter. Some prefer a few
drops of lemon juice or vinegar added to the butter. If a small
quantity of boiling water is put into the dishes, the melted butter
will float on top and remain hot much longer.

Roasted Clams

Roasted clams are served at Clam Bakes. Clams are washed in
sea-water, placed on stones which have been previously heated by
burning wood on them, ashes removed, and stones sprinkled with
thin layer of seaweed. Clams are piled on stones, covered with
seaweed, and a piece of canvas thrown over them to retain the
steam.

Clams, Union League

Fry one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one and one-half
tablespoons butter five minutes; add eighteen clams and one-half
cup white wine. Cook until the shells open. Remove clams from
shells and reduce liquor to one-third cupful. Melt two tablespoons
butter, add two table- spoons flour, and pour on gradually the clam
liquor; add one-fourth cup cream and the clams, season with salt
and pepper. Refill clam-shells, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and
serve on each a square piece of fried bacon.

Clams a la Grand Union

Clean and dry selected clams, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and
drain on brown paper. Serve on small slices of cream toast,
seasoned with salt, celery salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Batter. Mix and sift one cup bread flour, one-half teaspoon salt,
and a few grains cayenne. Add gradually two-thirds cup milk, and
two eggs well beaten.

Fried Scallops

Clean one quart scallops; drain, and dry between towels. Season
with salt and pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry two minutes
in deep fat; then drain on brown paper.

Plain Lobster

Remove lobster meat from shell, arrange on platter, and garnish
with small claws. If two lobsters are opened, stand tail shells (put
together) in center of platter, and arrange meat around them.

Lobster Cocktail

Allow one-fourth cup lobster meat, cut in pieces, for each cocktail,
and season with two tablespoons, each, tomato catsup and Sherry
wine, one tablespoon lemon juice, six drops Tabasco Sauce,
one-eighth teaspoon finely chopped chives, and salt to taste. Chill
thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses.

Fried Lobster

Remove lobster meat from shell. Use tail meat, divided in fourths,
and large pieces of claw meat. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and
lemon juice; dip in crumbs, egg, and again in crumbs; fry in deep
fat, drain, and serve with Sauce Tartare.

Buttered Lobster

2 1b. lobster
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons butter
Lemon juice

Remove lobster meat from shell and chop slightly. Melt butter, add
lobster, and when heated, season and serve garnished with lobster
claws.

Scalloped Lobster

2 1b. lobster
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups White Sauce II
Few grains cayenne
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in cubes. Heat in White
Sauce and add seasonings. Refill lobster shells, cover with
buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. To prevent
lobster shells from curling over lobster while baking, insert small
wooden skewers of sufficient length to keep shell in its original
shape. To assist in preserving color of shell, brush over with olive
oil before putting into oven. Scalloped lobster may be baked in
buttered scallop shells, or in a buttered baking dish.

Devilled Lobster

Scalloped lobster highly seasoned is served as Devilled Lobster.
Use larger proportions of same seasonings, with the addition of
mustard.

Curried Lobster

Prepare as Scalloped Lobster, adding to flour one-half teaspoon
curry powder when making White Sauce.

Lobster Farci

1 cup chopped lobster meat
Slight grating nutmeg
Yolks 2 "hard-boiled" eggs
1/3 cup buttered crumbs
1/2 tablespoon chopped parsley
Salt
1 cup White Sauce I
Pepper

To lobster meat add yolks of eggs rubbed to a paste, parsley, sauce,
and seasonings to taste. Fill lobster shells, cover with buttered
crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Lobster and Oyster Filling
(For Patties or Vol-au-Vent)

1 pint oysters
1/4 cup butter
11/4 1b. lobster
1/3 cup flour
11/2 cups cold water
3/4 cup cream
1 stalk celery
Worcestershire Sauce
1 slice onion
Lemon juice
Salt
Paprika

Clean and parboil oysters; drain, and add to liquor body bones and
tough claw meat from lobster, water, celery, and onion. Cook
slowly until stock is reduced to one cup, and strain. Make sauce of
butter, flour, strained stock, and cream. Add oysters and lobster
meat cut in strips; then add seasonings. One-half teaspoon beef
extract is an improvement to this dish.

Fricassee of Lobster and Mushrooms

2 1b. lobster
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup butter
11/2 cups milk
3/4 1b. mushrooms
Salt
Few drops onion juice
Paprika
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in strips. Cook butter with
mushrooms broken in pieces and onion juice three minutes; add
flour, and pour on gradually milk. Add lobster meat, season with
salt and paprika, and, as soon as lobster is heated, add wine.
Remove to serving dish, and garnish with puff paste or toast points
and parsley.

Lobster and Oyster Ragout

1/4 cup butter
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup flour
Few drops onion juice
3/4 cup oyster liquor
1 pint oysters parboiled
3/4 cup cream
3/4 cup lobster dice
3/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons Sauterne
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Make a sauce of first eight ingredients. Add oysters, lobster dice,
wine, and parsley.

Stuffed Lobster a la Bechamel

2 1b. lobster
Few grains cayenne
11/2 cups milk
Slight grating nutmeg
Bit of bay leaf
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons flour
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup buttered crumbs

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in dice. Scald milk with
bay leaf, remove bay leaf and make a white sauce of butter, flour,
and milk; add salt, cayenne, nutmeg, parsley, yolks of eggs slightly
beaten, and lemon juice. Add lobster dice, refill shells, cover with
buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. One-half
chicken stock and one-half cream may be used for sauce if a richer
dish is desired.

Broiled Live Lobster

Live lobsters may be dressed for broiling at market, or may be
done at home. Clean lobster and place in a buttered wire broiler.
Broil eight minutes on flesh side, turn and broil six minutes on
shell side. Serve with melted butter. Lobsters taste nearly the same
when placed in dripping-pan and baked fifteen minutes in hot
oven, and are much easier cooked.

To Split a Live Lobster. Cross large claws and hold firmly with left
hand. With sharp-pointed knife, held in right hand, begin at the
mouth and make a deep incision, and, with a sharp cut, draw the
knife quickly through body and entire length of tail. Open lobster,
remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach, and crack claw shells
with a mallet.

Baked Live Lobster. Devilled Sauce.

Prepare lobster same as for Broiled Live Lobster and place in a
dripping-pan. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter
three minutes. Season highly with salt, cayenne, and
Worcestershire Sauce. Spread over lobster, and bake in a hot oven
fifteen minutes. Remove to platter and serve at once, allowing
over one and one-half pound lobster to each person.

Live Lobster en Brochette

Split a live lobster, remove meat from tail and large claws, cut in
pieces, and arrange on skewers, alternating pieces with small slices
of bacon. Fry in deep fat and drain. Cook liver of lobster with one
tablespoon butter three minutes, season highly with mustard and
cayenne, and serve with lobster.

Lobster a 1'Americaine

Split a live lobster and put in a large omelet pan, sprinkle with
one-fourth onion finely chopped and a few grains of cayenne and
cook five minutes. Add one-half cup Tomato Sauce II and cook
three minutes; then add two tablespoons Sherry wine, cover, and
cook in oven seven minutes. To the liver add one tablespoon wine,
two tablespoons Tomato Sauce and one-half tablespoon melted
butter; heat in pan after lobster has been removed. As soon as
sauce is heated, strain, and pour over lobster.

Lobster a la Muisset

Cut two one and one-half pound live lobsters in pieces for serving,
remove intestinal vein and lady, and crack large claws. Cook one
tablespoon finely chopped shallot and three tablespoons chopped
carrot in two tablespoons butter ten minutes, stirring constantly
that carrots may not burn. Add two sprigs thyme, one-half bay leaf,
two red peppers from pepper sauce, one teaspoon salt, one and
one-third cups Brown Stock, two-thirds cup stewed and strained
tomatoes, and three tablespoons Sherry wine. Add lobster and
cook fifteen minutes. Remove lobster to serving dish, thicken
sauce with four tablespoons, each, butter and flour cooked
together, and add one and one-half tablespoons brandy. Pour sauce
around lobster, and sprinkle all with finely chopped chives.

Chapter XII. BEEF.

MEAT is the name applied to the flesh of all animals used for
food. Beef is the meat of steer, ox, or cow, and is the most
nutritious and largely consumed of all animal foods. Meat is
chiefly composed of the albuminoids (fibrin, albumen, gelatin),
fat, mineral matter, and water.

Fibrin is that substance in blood which causes it to coagulate when
shed. It consists of innumerable delicate fibrils which entangle the
blood corpuscles, and form with them a mass called blood clot.
Fibrin is insoluble in both cold and hot water.

Albumen is a substance found in the blood and muscle. It is
soluble in cold water, and is coagulated by hot water or heat. It
begins to coagulate at 134 degrees F. and becomes solid at 160
degrees F. Here lies the necessity of cooking meat in hot water at a
low temperature; of broiling meat at a high temperature, to quickly
sear surface.

Gelatin in its raw state is termed collagen. It is a transparent,
tasteless substance, obtained by boiling with water, muscle, skin,
cartilage, bone, tendon, ligament, or membrane of animals. By this
process, collagen of connective tissues is dissolved and converted
into gelatin. Gelatin is insoluble in cold water, soluble in hot
water, but in boiling water is decomposed, and by much boiling
will not solidify on cooling. When subjected to cold water it
swells, and is called hydrated gelatin. Myosin is the albuminoid of
muscle, collagen of tendons, ossein of bones, and chondrin of
cartilage and gristle.

Gelatin, although highly nitrogenous, does not act in the system as
other nitrogenous foods, as a large quantity passes out unchanged.

Fat is the white or yellowish oily solid substance forming the chief
part of the adipose tissue. Fat is found in thick layers directly
under the skin, in other parts of the body, in bone, and is
intermingled throughout the flesh. Fat as food is a great heat giver
and force-producer. Suet is the name given to fat which lies about
the loins and kidneys. Beef suet tried out and clarified is much
used in cookery for shortening and frying.

Mineral Matter The largest amount of mineral matter is found in
bone. It is principally calcium phosphate (phosphate of lime).
Sodium chloride (common salt) is found in the blood and
throughout the tissues.

Water abounds in all animals, constituting a large percentage of
their weight.

The color of meat is due to the coloring matter (hmoglobin)
which abounds in the red corpuscles of the blood.

The distinctive flavor of meat is principally due to peptones and
allied substances, and is intensified by the presence of sodium
chloride and other salts.

The beef creature is divided by splitting through the back-bone in
two parts, each part being called a side of beef. Four hundred and
fifty pounds is good market weight for a side of beef.

The most expensive cuts come from that part of the creature where
muscles are but little used, which makes the meat finer-grained
and consequently more tender, taking less time for cooking. Many
of the cheapest cuts, though equally nutritious, need long, slow
cooking to render them tender enough to digest easily. Tough meat
which has long and coarse fibres is often found to be very juicy, on
account of the greater motion of that part of the creature, which
causes the juices to flow freely. Roasting and broiling, which
develop so fine a flavor, can only be applied to the more expensive
cuts. The liver kidneys, and heart are of firm, close texture, and
difficult of digestion. Tripe, which is the first stomach of the ox, is
easy of digestion, but on account of the large amount of fat which
it contains, it is undesirable for those of weak digestion.

The quality of beef depends on age of the creature and manner of
feeding. The best beef is obtained from a steer of four or five
years. Good beef should be firm and of fine-grained texture, bright
red in color, and well mottled and coated with fat. The fat should
be firm and of a yellowish color. Suet should be dry, and crumble
easily. Beef should not be eaten as soon as killed, but allowed to
hang and ripen, from two to three weeks in winter, and two weeks
in summer.

Meat should be removed from paper as soon as it comes from
market, otherwise paper absorbs some of the juices.

Meat should be kept in a cool place. In winter, beef may be bought
in large quantities and cut as needed. If one chooses, a loin or
rump may be bought and kept by the butcher, who sends cuts as
ordered.

Always wipe beef, before cooking, with a cheese-cloth wrung out
of cold water, but never allow it to stand in a pan of cold water, as
juices will be drawn out.

DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF

HIND-QUARTER

DIVISIONS
WAYS OF COOKING

Flank (thick and boneless)
Stuffed, rolled and braised, or corned and boiled

Round
Aitchbone
Cheap roast, beef stew, or braised

Top
Steaks, best cuts for beef tea

Lower Part
Hamburg steaks, curry of beef, and cecils

Vein
Steaks

Rump
Back
Choicest large roasts and cross-cut steaks

Middle
Roasts

Face
Inferior roasts and stews

Loin
Tip
Extra fine roasts

Middle
Sirloin and porterhouse steaks

First Cut
Steaks and roast

The Tenderloin
Sold as a Fillet or cut in Steaks
Larded and roasted, or broiled

Hindi-shin
Cheap stew or soup stock

FORE-QUARTER

DIVISIONS
WAYS OF COOKING

Five Prime Ribs
Good roast

Five Chuck Ribs
Small steaks and stews

Neck
Hamburg steaks

Sticking-piece
Mincemeat

Rattle Rand
Thick End
Corned for boiling

Second Cut

Thin End

Brisket
Navel End
Finest pieces for corning

Butt End or

Fancy Brisket

Fore-shin
Soup stock and stews

Other Parts of Beef Creature used for Food

Brains
Stewed, scalloped dishes, or croquettes

Tongue
Boiled or braised, fresh or corned

Heart
Stuffed and braised

Liver
Broiled or fried

Kidneys
Stewed or sauted

Tail
Soup

Suet (kidney suet is the best)

Tripe
Lyonnaise, broiled, or fried in batter

The Effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat

By putting meat in cold water and allowing water to heat
gradually, a large amount of juice is extracted and meat is
tasteless; and by long cooking the connective tissues are softened
and dissolved, which gives to the stock when cold a jelly-like
consistency. This principle applies to soup-making.

By putting meat in boiling water, allowing the water to boil for a
few minutes, then lowering the temperature, juices in the outer
surface are quickly coagulated, and the inner juices are prevented
from escaping. This principle applies where nutriment and flavor
is desired in meat. Examples: boiled mutton, fowl.

By putting in cold water, bringing quickly to the boiling-point,
then lowering the temperature and cooking slowly until meat is
tender, some of the goodness will be in the stock, but a large
portion left in the meat. Examples: fowl, when cooked to use for
made-over dishes, Scotch Broth.

TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS

Articles
Refuse
Proteid
Fat
Mineral matter
Water

BEEF

Fore-quarter
19.8
14.1
16.1
.7
49.3

Hind-quarter
16.3
15.3
15.6
.8
52.

Round
8.5
18.7
8.8
1.
63.

Rump
18.5
14.4
19.
.8
47.3

Loin
12.6
15.9
17.3
.9
53.3

Ribs
20.2
13.6
20.6
.7
44.9

Chuck ribs
13.3
15.
20.8
.8
50.1

Tongue
15.1
14.8
15.3
.9
53.9

Heart

16.
20.4
1.
62.6

Carbohydrates

Kidney
.4
16.9
4.8
1.2
76.7

Liver
1.8
21.6
5.4
1.4
69.8

MUTTON

Hind-quarter
16.7
13.5
23.5
.7
45.6

Fore-quarter
21.1
11.9
25.7
.7
40.6

Leg
17.4
15.1
14.5
.8
52.2

Loin
14.2
12.8
31.9
.6

VEAL

Fore-quarter
24.5
14.6
6.
.7
54.2

Hind-quarter
20.7
15.7
6.6
.8
56.2

Leg
10.5
18.5
5.
1.
65.
Sweetbreads

15.4
12.1
1.6
70.9

PORK

Loin of pork
16.
13.5
27.5
.7
42.3

Ham, smoked 
12.7
14.1
33.2
4.1
35.9

Salt pork
8.1
9.6
60.2
4.3
17.8

Bacon
8.1
9.6
60.2
4.3
17.8

POULTRY

Chicken
34.8
14.8
1.1
.8
48.5
Fowl
30.
13.4
10.2
.8
45.6

Turkey
22.7
15.7
18.4
.8
42.4

Goose
22.2
10.3
33.8
.6
33.1

W.O. Atwaler, Ph. D.

Broiled Beefsteak

The best cuts of beef for broiling are porterhouse, sirloin, cross-cut
of rump steaks, and second and third cuts from top of round.
Porterhouse and sirloin cuts are the most expensive, on account of
the great loss in bone and fat, although price per pound is about the
same as for cross-cut of rump. Round steak is very juicy, but,
having coarser fibre, is not as tender. Steaks should be cut at least
an inch thick, and from that to two and one-half inches. The flank
end of sirloin steak should be removed before cooking. It may be
put in soup kettle, or lean part may be chopped and utilized for
meat cakes, fat tried out and clarified for shortening.

To Broil Steak. Wipe with a cloth wrung out of cold water, and
trim off superfluous fat. With some of the fat grease a wire broiler,
place meat in broiler, (having fat edge next to handle), and broil
over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds for the first minute, that
surface may be well seared, thus preventing escape of juices. After
the first minute, turn occasionally until well cooked on both sides.
Steak cut one and one-half inches thick will take ten minutes, if
liked rare; twelve to fifteen minutes, if well done. Remove to hot
platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Beefsteak with Matre d'Htel Butter

Serve Broiled Steak with Matre d'Htel Butter.

Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce
Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce.

Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce
Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom
Sauce.

Porterhouse Steak, Bordelaise Sauce
Serve broiled porterhouse steak with

Bordelaise Sauce. Cook one shallot, finely chopped, with one-forth
cup claret until claret is reduced to two tablespoons, and strain.
Melt two tablespoons butter, add one slice onion, two slices carrot,
sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one clove,
and cools until brown. Add three and one-half tablespoons flour,
and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock.
Strain, let simmer eight minutes, add claret and one tablespoon
butter. Season with salt and pepper. Remove marrow from a
marrow-bone and cut in one-third inch slices; then poach in
boiling water. Arrange on and around steak, and pour around
sauce.

Beefsteak a la Henriette

1/2 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
Yolks 3 eggs
2 tablespoons tomato puree
1 tablespoon cold water
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Few grains cayenne

Wash butter, and divide in three pieces. Put one piece in saucepan
with yolks of eggs slightly beaten and mixed with water and lemon
juice. Proceed same as in making Hollandaise Sauce I ; then add
tomato, parsley, and seasonings. Pour one-half sauce on a serving
dish, lay a broiled porterhouse steak on sauce, and cover steak with
remaining sauce. Garnish with parsley.

Beefsteak a la Victor Hugo

Wipe a porterhouse steak, broil, and serve with

Victor Hugo Sauce. Cook one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot
in one tablespoon tarragon vinegar five minutes. Wash one-third
cup butter, and divide in thirds. Add one piece butter to mixture,
with yolks two eggs, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one teaspoon
meat extract. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly; as soon as
butter is melted, add second piece, and then third piece. When
mixture thickens, add one-half tablespoon grated horseradish.

Steak a la Chiron

Spread broiled rump steak with Hollandaise Sauce I to which is
added a few drops onion juice and one-half tablespoon finely
chopped parsley.

Beefsteak a la Mirabeau

Garnish a broiled porterhouse or cross-cut of rump steak with
anchovies, and stoned olives stuffed with green butter and chopped
parsley. Arrange around steak stuffed tomatoes, and fried potato
balls served in shells made from noodle mixture. Pour around the
following sauce: Melt two tablespoons butter, add two and
one-half tablespoons browned flour, then add one cup Chicken
Stock. Season with one tablespoon tomato catsup and salt and
pepper.

Noodle Shells. Make noodle mixture , roll as thinly as possible, cut
in pieces, and shape over buttered inverted scallop shells. Put in
dripping-pan and bake in a slow oven. As mixture bakes it curls
from edges, when cases should be slipped from shells and pressed
firmly in insides of shells to finish cooking and leave an
impression of shells. Potato balls served in these shells make an
attractive garnish for broiled fish and meats.

Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket

Wipe a sirloin steak, cut one and one-half inches thick, broil five
minutes, and remove to platter. Spread with butter and sprinkle
with salt and pepper. Clean one pint oysters, cover steak with
same, sprinkle oysters with salt and pepper and dot over with
butter. Place on grate in hot oven, and cook until oysters are
plump.

Planked Beefsteak

Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and pan broil seven minutes a
porterhouse or cross-cut of the rump steak cut one and
three-fourths inches thick. Butter a plank and arrange a border of
Duchess Potatoes, using three times the recipe, close to edge,
using a pastry bag and rose tube. Remove steak to plank, put in a
hot oven, and bake until steak is cooked and potatoes are browned.
Spread steak with butter, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and finely
chopped parsley. Garnish top of steak with sauted mushroom caps,
and put around steak at equal distances halves of small tomatoes
sauted in butter, and on top of each tomato a circular slice of
cucumber.

Broiled Fillets of Beef

Slices cut from the tenderloin are called sliced fillets of beef. Wipe
sliced fillets, place in greased broiler, and broil four or five
minutes over a clear fire. These may be served with Ma&lcirc;tre
d'Htel Butter or Mushroom Sauce.

Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Puree

Shape slices of tenderloin, one inch thick, in circular pieces. Broil
five minutes. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Arrange on platter around a mound of Chestnut Puree.

Sauted Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro

Wipe and saute small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle
on platter with cock's-comb shaped crotons between, and pour
sauce in the centre. Serve as a luncheon dish with Brussels Sprouts
or String Beans.

Sauted Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trianon

Wipe and saute small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle
around a mound of fried potato balls sprinkled with parsley. Put
Sauce Trianon on each fillet.

Sauted Fillets of Beef a la Moelle

Cut beef tenderloin in slices one inch thick, and trim into circular
shapes. Season with salt and pepper, and broil six minutes in hot
buttered frying-pan. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone, cut in
one-third inch slices, poach in boiling water, and drain. Put a slice
of marrow on each fillet. To liquor in pan add one tablespoon
butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season
with salt, pepper, and Madeira wine. Pour sauce around meat.

Sauted Fillets of Beef, Cherry Sauce

Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sauted Fillets of Beef a la
Moelle. Arrange on serving dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
spread with butter, and pour over.

Cherry Sauce. Soak one-fourth cup glaced cherries fifteen minutes
in boiling water. Drain, cut in halves, cover with Sherry wine, and
let stand three hours.

Sauted Fillets of Beef with Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sauted Fillets of Beef a la
Moelle omitting the marrow. Put a sauted stuffed mushroom cap
on each, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are
browned. Remove to serving dish, pour around Espagnole Sauce,
and garnish caps with strips of red and green pepper cut in fancy
shapes.

Stuffing for Mushroom Caps. Clean and finely chop six mushroom
caps; add one tablespoon each of parsley and onion finely
chopped, and one tablespoon butter. Moisten with Espagnole
Sauce (See p. 268).

Chteaubriand of Beef

Trim off fat and skin from three pounds of beef cut from centre of
fillet and flatten with a broad-bladed cleaver. Sprinkle with salt,
brush over with olive oil, and broil over a clear fire twenty
minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with red pepper cut in
fancy shapes and parsley. Serve with

Espagnole Sauce. To one and one-half cups rich brown sauce add
two-thirds teaspoon meat extract, one tablespoon lemon juice, and
one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped parsley. Just before
serving add one tablespoon butter and salt and pepper to taste.

Broiled Meat Cakes

Chop finely lean raw beef, season with salt and pepper, shape in
small flat cakes, and broil in a greased broiler or frying-pan.
Spread with butter, or serve with Ma&lcirc;tre d'Htel Butter. In
forming the cakes, handle as little as possible; for if pressed too
compactly, cakes will be found solid.

Hamburg Steaks

Chop finely one pound lean raw beef; season highly with salt,
pepper, and a few drops onion juice or one-half shallot finely
chopped. Shape, cook, and serve as Meat Cakes. A few gratings of
nutmeg and one egg slightly beaten may be added.

Cannelon of Beef

2 lbs. lean beef, cut from round
1/2 teaspoon onion juice
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Few gratings nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Chop meat finely, and add remaining ingredients in order given.
Shape in a roll six inches long, place on rack in dripping-pan, and
arrange over top slices fat salt-pork, and bake thirty minutes. Baste
every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one cup
boiling water. Serve with Brown Mushroom Sauce I.

Roast Beef

The best cuts of beef for roasting are: tip or middle of sirloin, back
of rump, or first three ribs. Tip of sirloin roast is desirable for a
small family. Back of rump makes a superior roast for a large
family, and is more economical than sirloin. It is especially
desirable where a large quantity of dish gravy is liked, for in
carving the meat juices follow the knife. Rib roasts contain more
fat than either of the others, and are somewhat cheaper.

To Roast Beef. Wipe, put on a rack in dripping-pan, skin side
down, rub over with salt, and dredge meat and pan with flour.
Place in hot oven, that the surface may be quickly seared, thus
preventing escape of inner juices. After flour in pan is browned,
reduce heat, and baste with fat which has tried out; if meat is quite
lean, it may be necessary to put trimmings of fat in pan. Baste
every ten minutes; if this rule is followed, meat will be found more
juicy. When meat is about half done, turn it over and dredge with
flour, that skin side may be uppermost for final browning. For
roasting, consult Time Table for Baking Meats.

If there is danger of flour burning in pan, add a small quantity of
water; this, however, is not desirable, and seldom need be done if
size of pan is adapted to size of roast. Beef to be well roasted
should be started in hot oven and heat decreased, so that when
carved the slices will be red throughout, with a crisp layer of
golden brown fat on the top. Beef roasted when temperature is so
high that surface is hardened before heat can penetrate to the
centre is most unsatisfactory.

Sirloin or rib roasts may have the bones removed, and be rolled,
skewered, and tied in shape. Chicago Butt is cut from the most
tender part of back of rump. They are shipped from Chicago, our
greatest beef centre, and if fresh and from a heavy creature, make
excellent roasts at a small price.

Roast Beef Gravy. Remove some of the fat from pan, leaving four
tablespoons. Place on front of range, add four tablespoons flour,
and stir until well browned. The flour, dredged and browned in
pan, should give additional color to gravy. Add gradually one and
one-half cups boiling water, cook five minutes, season with salt
and pepper, and strain. If flour should burn in pan, gravy will be
full of black particles.

To Carve a Roast of Beef. Have roast placed on platter skin side
up; with a pointed, thin-bladed, sharp knife cut a sirloin or rib
roast in thin slices at right angles to the ribs, and cut slices from
ribs. If there is tenderloin, remove it from under the bone, and cut
in thin slices across grain of meat. Carve back of rump in thin
slices with the grain of meat; by so doing, some of the least tender
muscle will be served with that which is tender. By cutting across
grain of meat, the tenderest portion is sliced by itself, as is the less
tender portion.

Yorkshire Pudding

1 cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon salt

Miss C. J. Wills

Mix salt and flour, and add milk gradually to form a smooth paste;
then add eggs beaten until very light. Cover bottom of hot pan with
some of beef fat tried out from roast, pour mixture in pan one-half
inch deep. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting after well
risen, with some of the fat from pan in which meat is roasting. Cut
in squares for serving. Bake, if preferred, in greased, hissing hot
iron gem pans.

Larded Fillet of Beef

The tenderloin of beef which lies under the loin and rump is called
fillet of beef. The fillet under the loin is known as the long fillet,
and when removed no porterhouse steaks can be cut; therefore it
commands a higher price than the short fillet lying under rump.
Two short fillets are often skewered together, and served in place
of a long fillet.

Wipe, remove fat, veins, and any tendonous portions; skewer in
shape, and lard upper side with grain of meat, following directions
for larding on page 23. Place on a rack in small pan, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and put in bottom of pan small
pieces of pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in hot oven, basting
three times. Take out skewer, remove meat to hot platter, and
garnish with watercress. Serve with Mushroom, Figaro, or
Horse-radish Sauce I.

Fillet of Beef with Vegetables

Wipe a three-pound fillet, trim, and remove fat. Put one-half
pound butter in hot frying-pan and when melted add fillet, and turn
frequently until the entire surface is seared and well browned; then
turn occasionally until done, the time required being about thirty
minutes. Remove to serving dish and garnish with one cup each
cooked peas and carrots cut in fancy shapes, both well seasoned,
one-half cup raisins seeded and cooked in boiling water until soft,
and the caps from one-half pound fresh mushrooms sauted in
butter five minutes. Serve with

Brown Mushroom Sauce. Pour off one-fourth cup fat from
frying-pan, add five tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned;
then add one cup Brown Soup Stock, one-third cup mushroom
liquor, and the caps from one-half pound mushrooms cut in slices
and sauted in butter three minutes. Season with salt and pepper,
and just before serving add gradually, while stirring constantly, the
butter remaining in frying-pan.

To obtain mushroom liquor, scrape stems of mushrooms, break in
pieces, cover with cold water, and cook slowly until liquid is
reduced to one-third cup.

Braised Beef

3 lbs. beef from lower part of round or face of rump
Carrot
1/4 cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Onion
2 thin slices fat salt pork
Celery
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Salt and
pepper

Try out pork and remove scraps. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat.
When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or skewer, which
allows the inner juices to escape. Place on trivet in deep granite
pan or in earthen pudding-dish, and surround with vegetables,
peppercorns, and three cups boiling water; cover closely, and bake
four hours in very slow oven, basting every half-hour, and turning
after second hour. Throughout the cooking, the liquid should be
kept below the boiling-point. Serve with Horseradish Sauce, or
with sauce made from liquor in pan.

Beef a la Mode

Insert twelve large lardoons in a four-pound piece of beef cut from
the round. Make incisions for lardoons by running through the
meat a large skewer. Season with salt and pepper, dredge with
flour, and brown the entire surface in pork fat. Put on a trivet in
kettle, surround with one-third cup each carrot, turnip, celery, and
onion cut in dice, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, and water to half
cover meat. Cover closely, and cook slowly four hours, keeping
liquor below the boiling-point. Remove to hot platter. Strain
liquor, thicken and season to serve as a gravy. When beef is
similarly prepared (with exception of lardoons and vegetables),
and cooked in smaller amount of water, it is called Smothered
Beef, or Pot Roast. A bean-pot (covered with a piece of buttered
paper, tied firmly down) is the best utensil to use for a Pot Roast.

Pressed Beef Flank

Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and roll a flank of beef. Put in a
kettle, cover with boiling water, and add one tablespoon salt,
one-half teaspoon peppercorns, a bit of bay leaf, and a bone or two
which may be at hand. Cook slowly until meat is in shreds; there
should be but little liquor in kettle when meat is done. Arrange
meat in a deep pan, pour over liquor, cover, and press with a heavy
weight. Serve cold, thinly sliced.

Beef Stew with Dumplings

Aitchbone, weighing 5 lbs
1/2 small onion, cut in thin slices
4 cups potatoes, cut in 1/4 inch slices
1/4 cup flour
Turnip
2/3 cup each, cut in half-inch cubes
Salt
Carrot
Pepper

Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in one and one-half inch cubes,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cut some of
the fat in small pieces and try out in frying-pan. Add meat and stir
constantly, that the surface may be quickly seared; when well
browned, put in kettle, and rinse frying-pan with boiling water,
that none of the goodness may be lost. Add to meat remaining fat,
and bone sawed in \??\es; cover with boiling water and boil five
minutes, then cook at a lower temperature until meat is tender
(time required being about three hours). Add carrot, turnip, and
onion, with salt and pepper the last hour of cooking. Parboil
potatoes five minutes, and add to stew fifteen minutes before
taking from fire. Remove bones, large pieces of fat, and then skim.
Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold water
to pour easily. Pour in deep hot platter, and surround with
dumplings. Remnants of roast beef are usually made into a beef
stew; the meat having been once cooked, there is no necessity of
browning it. If gravy is left, it should be added to the stew.

Dumplings

2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons butter
3/4 cup milk

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in butter with tips of fingers,
and add milk gradually, using a knife for mixing. Toss on a floured
board, pat, and roll out to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with
biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Place closely together in a
buttered steamer, put over kettle of boiling water, cover closely,
and steam twelve minutes. A perforated tin pie-plate may be used
in place of steamer. A little more milk may be used in the mixture,
when it may be taken up by spoonfuls, dropped and cooked on top
of stew. In this case some of the liquid must be removed, that
dumplings may rest on meat and potato, and not settle into liquid.

Corned Beef

Corned beef has but little nutritive value. It is used to give variety
to our diet in summer, when fresh meats prove too stimulating. It
is eaten by the workingman to give bulk to his food. The best
pieces of corned beef are the rattle rand and fancy brisket. The
fancy brisket commands a higher price and may be easily told
from the rattle rand by the selvage on lower side and the absence
of bones. The upper end of brisket (butt end) is thick and
composed mostly of lean meat, the middle cut has more fat but is
not well mixed, while the lower (navel end) has a large quantity of
fat. The rattle rand contains a thick lean end; the second cut
contains three distinct layers of meat and fat, and is considered the
best cut by those who prefer meat well streaked with fat. The rattle
rand has a thin end, which contains but one layer of lean meat and
much fat, consequently is not a desirable piece.

To Boil Corned Beef. Wipe the meat and tie securely in shape, if
this has not been already done at market. Put in kettle, cover with
cold water, and bring slowly to boiling-point. Boil five minutes,
remove scum, and cook at a lower temperature until tender. Cool
slightly in water in which it was cooked, remove to a dish, cover,
and place on cover a weight, that meat may be well pressed. The
lean meat and fat may be separated and put in alternate layers in a
bread pan, then covered and pressed.

Boiled Dinner

A boiled dinner consists of warm unpressed corned beef, served
with cabbage, beets, turnips, carrots, and potatoes. After removing
meat from water, skim off fat and cook vegetables (with exception
of beets, which require a long time for cooking) in this water.
Carrots require a longer time for cooking than cabbage or turnips.
Carrots and turnips, if small, may be cooked whole; if large, cut in
pieces. Cabbage and beets are served in separate dishes, other
vegetables on same dish with meat.

Boiled Tongue

A boiled corned tongue is cooked the same as Boiled Corned Beef.
If very salt, it should be soaked in cold water several hours, or over
night, before cooking. Take from water when slightly cooled and
remove skin.

Braised Tongue

A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue in kettle, cover
with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours. Take tongue from
water and remove skin and roots. Place in deep pan and surround
with one-third cup each carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice, and
one sprig parsley; then pour over four cups sauce. Cover closely,
and bake two hours, turning after the first hour. Serve on platter
and strain around the sauce.

Sauce for Tongue. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add one-fourth
cup flour and stir together until well browned. Add gradually four
cups of water in which tongue was cooked. Season with salt and
pepper and add one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce. One and
one-half cups stewed and strained tomatoes may be used in place
of some of the water.

Broiled Liver

Cover with boiling water slices of liver cut one-half inch thick, let
stand five minutes to draw out the blood; drain, wipe, and remove
the thin outside skin and veins. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
place in a greased wire broiler and broil five minutes, turning
often. Remove to a hot platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle
with salt and pepper.

Liver and Bacon

Prepare as for Broiled Liver, cut in pieces for serving, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in bacon fat. Serve
with bacon.

Bacon I

Place strips of thinly cut bacon on board, and with a broad-bladed
knife make strips as thin as possible. Put in hot frying-pan and
cook until bacon is crisp and brown, occasionally pouring off fat
from pan, turning frequently. Drain on brown paper.

Bacon II

Place thin slices of bacon (from which the rind has been removed)
closely together in a fine wire broiler; place broiler over
dripping-pan and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and
brown, turning once. Drain on brown paper. Fat which has dripped
into the pan should be poured out and used for frying liver, eggs,
potatoes, etc.

Braised Liver

Skewer, tie in shape, and lard upper side of calf's liver. Place in
deep pan, with trimmings from lardoons; surround with one-fourth
cup each, carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice; one-fourth
teaspoon peppercorns, two cloves, bit of bay leaf, and two cups
Brown Stock or water. Cover closely and bake slowly two hours,
uncovering the last twenty minutes. Remove from pan, strain
liquor, and use liquor for the making of a brown sauce with one
and one-half tablespoons butter and two tablespoons flour. Pour
sauce around liver for serving.

Calf's Liver, Stuffed and Larded

Make a deep cut nearly the entire length of liver, beginning at
thick end, thus making a pouch for stuffing. Fill pouch. Skewer
liver and lard upper side. Put liver in baking pan, pour around two
cups Brown Sauce, made of one tablespoon each butter and flour,
and two cups Brown Stock, salt, and pepper. Bake one and
one-fourth hours, basting every twelve minutes with sauce in pan.
Remove to serving dish, strain sauce around liver, and garnish with
Glazed or French Fried Onions .

Stuffing. Mix one-half pound chopped cooked cold ham, one-half
cup stale bread crumbs, one-half small onion finely chopped, and
one tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Moisten with Brown
Sauce; then add one beaten egg, and season with salt and pepper.

Broiled Tripe

Fresh honeycomb tripe is best for broiling. Wipe tripe as dry as
possible, dip in fine cracker dust and olive oil or melted butter,
draining off all fat that is possible, and again dip in cracker dust.
Place in a greased broiler and broil five minutes, cooking smooth
side of tripe the first three minutes. Place on a hot platter,
honeycomb side up, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Broiled tripe is at its best when cooked over a charcoal
fire.

Tripe in Batter

Wipe tripe and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dip in batter, fry in a small quantity of hot fat, and drain.

Tripe Batter. Mix one cup flour with one-fourth teaspoon salt; add
gradually one-half cup cold water, and when perfectly smooth add
one egg well beaten, one-half tablespoon vinegar, and one
teaspoon olive oil or melted butter.

Tripe Fried in Batter

Cut pickled honeycomb tripe in pieces for serving; wash, cover
with boiling water, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Drain, and
again cover, using equal parts cold water and milk. Heat to
boiling-point, again drain, wipe as dry as possible, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dip in batter, fry in
deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with slices of lemon and
Chili Sauce.

Batter. Mix and sift one cup flour, one and one-half teaspoons
baking powder, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains pepper.
Add one-third cup milk and one egg well beaten.

Lyonnaise Tripe

Cut honeycomb tripe in pieces two inches long by one-half inch
wide, having three cupfuls. Put in a pan and place in oven that
water may be drawn out. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped
onion in two tablespoons butter until slightly browned, add tripe
drained from water, and cook five minutes. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper and finely chopped parsley.

Tripe a la Creole

Cut, bake, and drain tripe as for Lyonnaise Tripe. Cook same
quantity of butter and onion, add one-eighth green pepper finely
chopped, one tablespoon flour, one-half cup stock, one-fourth cup
drained tomatoes, and one fresh mushroom cut in slices; then add
tripe and cook five minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Tripe a la Provencale

Add to Lyonnaise Tripe one tablespoon white wine. Cook until
quite dry, add one-third cup Tomato Sauce, cook two minutes,
season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Calf's Head a la Terrapin

Wash and clean a calf's head, and cook until tender in boiling
water to cover. Cool, and cut meat from cheek in small cubes. To
two cups meat dice add one cup sauce made of two tablespoons
butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup White Stock, seasoned
with one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and a few
grains cayenne. Add one-half cup cream and yolks of two eggs
slightly beaten; cook two minutes and add two tablespoons
Madeira wine.

Calves' Tongues

Cook tongues until tender in boiling water to cover, with six slices
carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with six cloves, one-half
teaspoon peppercorns and one-half tablespoon salt; take from
water and remove skin and roots. Split and pour over equal parts
brown stock and tomatoes boiled until thick.

Calves' Tongues, Sauce Piquante

Cook four tongues, until tender, in boiling water, to cover, with six
slices carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with eight cloves,
one teaspoon peppercorns, and one-half tablespoon salt. Take
tongues from water, and remove skin and roots. Cut in halves
lengthwise and reheat in

Sauce Piquante. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add six tablespoons
flour, and stir until well browned; then add two cups Brown Stock
and cook three minutes. Season with two-thirds teaspoon salt,
one-half teaspoon paprika, few grains of cayenne, one tablespoon
vinegar, one-half tablespoon capers, and one cucumber pickle
thinly sliced. Served garnished with cucumber pickles, and cold
cooked beets cut in fancy shapes.

Calf's Heart

Wash a calf's heart, remove veins, arteries, and clotted blood. Stuff
(using half quantity of Fish Stuffing I on page 164, seasoned highly
with sage) and sew. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour,
and brown in hot fat. Place in small, deep baking-pan, half cover it
with boiling water, cover closely, and bake slowly two hours,
basting every fifteen minutes. It may be necessary to add more
water. Remove heart from pan, and thicken the liquor with flour
diluted with a small quantity of cold water. Season with salt and
pepper, and pour around the heart before serving.

Stuffed Hearts with Vegetables

Clean and wash calves' hearts, stuff, skewer into shape, lard,
season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in pork
fat, adding to fat one stalk celery, one tablespoon chopped onion,
two sprigs parsley, four slices carrot cut in pieces, half the quantity
of turnip, a bit of bay leaf, two cloves, and one-fourth teaspoon
peppercorns. Turn hearts occasionally until well browned, then
add one and one-half cups Brown Stock, cover, and cook slowly
one and one-half hours. Serve with cooked carrots and turnips cut
in strips or fancy shapes.
Braised Ox Joints
Cut ox tail at joints, parboil five minutes, wash thoroughly, dredge
with flour, and saute in butter (to which has been added a sliced
onion) until well browned. Add one-fourth cup flour, two cups
each brown stock, water, and canned tomatoes, one teaspoon salt,
and one-fourth teaspoon pepper. Turn into an earthen
pudding-dish, cover, and cook slowly three and one-half hours.
Remove ox tail, strain sauce, and return ox tail and sauce to oven
to finish cooking. Add two-thirds cup each carrot and turnip
(shaped with a vegetable cutter in pieces one-inch long, and about
as large around as macaroni) parboiled in boiled salted water five
minutes. As soon as vegetables are soft, add Sherry wine to taste,
and more salt and pepper, if needed. The wine may be omitted.

WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF

Roast Beef with Gravy

Cut cold roast beef in thin slices, place on a warm platter, and pour
over some of the gravy reheated to the boilingpoint. If meat is
allowed to stand in gravy on the range, it becomes hard and tough.

Roast Beef, Mexican Sauce

Reheat cold roast beef cut in thin slices, in

Mexican Sauce. Cook one onion, finely chopped, in two
tablespoons butter five minutes. Add one red pepper, one green
pepper, and one clove of garlic, each finely chopped, and two
tomatoes peeled and cut in pieces. Cook fifteen minutes, add one
teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, one-fourth teaspoon celery salt,
and salt to taste.

Cottage Pie

Cover bottom of a small greased baking-dish with hot mashed
potato, add a thick layer of roast beef, chopped or cut in small
pieces (seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice)
and moistened with some of the gravy; cover with a thin layer of
mashed potato, and bake in a hot oven long enough to heat
through.

Beefsteak Pie

Cut remnants of cold broiled steak or roast beef in one-inch cubes.
Cover with boiling water, add one-half onion, and cook slowly one
hour. Remove onion, thicken gravy with flour diluted with cold
water, and season with salt and pepper. Add potatoes cut in
one-fourth inch slices, which have been parboiled eight minutes in
boiling salted water. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, cool, cover
with bakingpowder biscuit mixture or pie crust. Bake in a hot
oven. If covered with pie crust, make several incisions in crust that
gases may escape.

Cecils with Tomato Sauce

1 cup cold roast beef or rare steak finely chopped
Onion juice
Worcestershire Sauce
Salt
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
Pepper
1 tablespoon melted butter
Yolk 1 egg slightly beaten

Season beef with salt, pepper, onion juice, and Worcestershire
Sauce; add remaining ingredients, shape after the form of small
croquettes, pointed at ends. Roll in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in
deep fat, drain, and serve with Tomato Sauce.

Corned Beef Hash

Remove skin and gristle from cooked corned beef, then chop the
meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To chopped
meat add an equal quantity of cold boiled chopped potatoes.
Season with salt and pepper, put into a hot buttered frying-pan,
moisten with milk or cream, stir until well mixed, spread evenly,
then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown
underneath. Turn, and fold on a hot platter. Garnish with sprig of
parsley in the middle.

Corned Beef Hash with Beets

When preparing Corned Beef hash, add one-half as much finely
chopped cooked beets as potatoes. Cold roast beef or one-half
roast beef and one-half corned beef may be used.

Dried Beef with Cream

1/4 lb. smoked dried beef, thinly sliced
1 cup scalded cream
11/2 tablespoons flour

Remove skin and separate meat in pieces, cover with hot water, let
stand ten minutes, and drain. Dilute flour with enough cold water
to pour easily, making a smooth paste; add to cream, and cook in
double boiler ten minutes. Add beef, and reheat. One cup White
Sauce I may be used in place of cream, omitting the salt.

Chapter XIII. LAMB AND MUTTON.

LAMB is the name given to the meat of lambs; mutton, to the meat
of sheep. Lamb, coming as it does from the young creature, is
immature, and less nutritious than mutton. The flesh of mutton
ranks with the flesh of beef in nutritive value and digestibility. The
fat of mutton, on account of its larger percentage of stearic acid, is
more difficult of digestion than the fat of beef.

Lamb may be eaten soon after the animal is killed and dressed;
mutton must hang to ripen. Good mutton comes from a sheep
about three years old, and should hang from two to three weeks.
The English South Down Mutton is cut from creatures even older
than three years. Young lamb, when killed from six weeks to three
months old, is called spring lamb, and appears in the market as
early as the last of January, but is very scarce until March. Lamb
one year old is called a yearling. Many object to the strong flavor
of mutton; this is greatly overcome by removing the pink skin and
trimming off superfluous fat.

Lamb and mutton are divided into two parts by cutting through
entire length of backbone; then subdivided into fore and hind
quarter, eight ribs being left on hind quarter, while in beef but
three ribs are left on hind-quarter. These eight ribs are cut into
chops and are known as rib chops. The meat which lies between
these ribs and the leg, cut into chops, is known as loin or kidney
chops.

Lamb and mutton chops cut from loin have a small piece of
tenderloin on one side of bone, and correspond to porter-house
steaks in the beef creature. Rib chops which have the bone cut
short and scraped clean, nearly to the lean meat, are called French
chops.

The leg is sold whole for boiling or roasting. The forequarter may
be boned, stuffed, rolled, and roasted, but is more often used for
broth, stew, or fricassee.

For a saddle of mutton the loin is removed whole before splitting
the creature. Some of the bones are removed and the flank ends are
rolled, fastened with wooden skewers, and securely tied to keep
skewers in place.

Good quality mutton should be fine-grained and of bright pink
color; the fat white, hard, and flaky. If the outside skin comes off
easily, mutton is sure to be good. Lamb chops may be easily
distinguished from mutton chops by the red color of bone. As lamb
grows older, blood recedes from bones; therefore in mutton the
bone is white. In leg of lamb the bone at joint is serrated, while in
leg of mutton the bone at joint is smooth and rounded. Good
mutton contains a larger proportion of fat than good beef. Poor
mutton is often told by the relatively small proportion of fat and
lean as compared to bone.

Lamb is usually preferred well done; mutton is often cooked rare.

Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops

Wipe chops, remove superfluous fat, and place in a broiler greased
with some of mutton fat. In loin chops, flank may be rolled and
fastened with a small wooden skewer. Follow directions for
Broiling Beefsteak.

Pan-broiled Chops

Chops for pan broiling should have flank and most of fat removed.
Wipe chops and put in hissing hot frying-pan.

Turn as soon as under surface is seared, and sear other side. Turn
often, using knife and fork that the surface may not be pierced, as
would be liable if fork alone were used. Cook eight minutes if
liked rare, ten to twelve minutes if liked well done. Let stand
around edge of frying-pan to brown the outside fat. When half
cooked, sprinkle with salt. Drain on brown paper, put on hot
platter, and spread with butter or serve with Tomato or Soubise
Sauce.

Breaded Mutton Chops

Wipe and trim chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat from five to eight minutes, and
drain. Serve with Tomato Sauce, or stack around a mound of
mashed potatoes, fried potato balls, or green peas. Never fry but
four at a time, and allow fat to reheat between fryings. After
testing fat for temperature, put in chops and place kettle on back of
range, that surface of chops may not be too brown while the inside
is still underdone.

Chops a la Signora

Gash French Chops on outer edge, extending cut half-way through
lean meat. Insert in each gash a slice of truffle, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, wrap in calf's caul. Roll in flour, dip in egg, then in
stale bread crumbs, and saute in butter eight minutes, turning
often. Place in oven four minutes to finish cooking. Arrange on hot
platter for serving, and place on top of each a fresh broiled
mushroom or mushroom baked in cream. To fat in pan add a small
quantity of boiling water and pour around chops. This is a
delicious way of cooking chops for a dinner party.

Lamb Chops a la Marseilles

Pan broil, on one side, six French chops, cover cooked side with
Mushroom Sauce, place in a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a
hot oven eight minutes. Remove to serving dish, place a paper frill
on each chop, and garnish with parsley.

Mushroom Sauce. Brown one and one-half tablespoons butter, add
three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add
one-half cup highly seasoned Brown Stock. Add one-fourth cup
chopped canned mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper.

Chops a la Castillane

Broil six lamb chops, arrange on slices of fried egg-plant, and pour
around the following sauce: Brown three tablespoons butter, add
three and one-half tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned;
then add, gradually, one cup rich Brown Stock. Cook three
tablespoons lean raw ham cut in small cubes in one-half
tablespoon butter two minutes. Moisten with two tablespoons
Sherry wine, and add to sauce with two tablespoons finely
shredded green pepper. Season with salt and pepper.

Chops en Papillote

Finely chop the whites of three "hard-boiled" eggs and force yolks
through potato ricer, mix, and add to three common crackers,
rolled and sifted; then add three tablespoons melted butter, salt,
pepper, and onion juice, to taste. Add enough cream to make of
right consistency to spread. Cover chops thinly with mixture and
wrap in buttered paper cases. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot
oven. Remove from cases, place on hot platter, and garnish with
parsley.
Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon
Wipe six French Chops, cut one and one-half inches thick. Split
meat in halves, cutting to bone. Cook two and one-half
tablespoons butter and one tablespoon onion five minutes; remove
onion, add one-half cup chopped mushrooms, and cook five
minutes; then add two tablespoons flour, three tablespoons stock,
one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and
a few grains cayenne. Spread mixture between layers of chops,
press together lightly, wrap in buttered paper cases, and broil ten
minutes. Serve with Spanish Sauce.

Boiled Leg of Mutton

Wipe meat, place in a kettle, and cover with boiling water. Bring
quickly to boiling-point, boil five minutes, and skim. Set on back
of range and simmer until meat is tender. When half done, add one
tablespoon salt. Serve with Caper Sauce, or add to two cups White
Sauce (made of one-half milk and one-half Mutton Stock), two
"hard-boiled" eggs cut in slices.

Braised Leg of Mutton

Order a leg of mutton boned. Wipe, stuff, sew, and place in deep
pan. Cook five minutes in one-fourth cup butter, a slice each of
onion, carrot, and turnip cut in dice, one-half bay leaf, and a sprig
each of thyme and parsley. Add three cups hot water, one and
one-half teaspoons salt, and twelve peppercorns; pour over mutton.
Cover closely, and cook slowly three hours, uncovering for the last
half-hour. Remove from pan to hot platter. Brown three
tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and stir until well
browned; then pour on slowly the strained liquor; there should be
one and three-fourths cups.

Stuffing

1 cup cracker crumbs
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup melted butter
1/2 tablespoon Poultry Seasoning
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup boiling water

Roast Lamb

A leg of lamb is usually sent from market wrapped in caul; remove
caul, wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place or rack in
dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Place
in hot oven, and baste as soon as flour in pan is brown, and every
fifteen minutes afterwards until meat is done, which will take
about one and three-fourths hours. It may be necessary to put a
small quantity of water in pan while meat is cooking. Leg of lamb
may be boned and stuffed for roasting. See Stuffing, under Braised
Mutton.

Make gravy, following directions for Roast Beef Gravy, or 
serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.

To Carve a Leg of Lamb. Cut in thin slices across grain of meat to
the bone, beginning at top of the leg.

Lamb Bretonne

Serve hot thinly sliced roast lamb with

Beans Bretonne. Soak one and one-half cups pea beans over night
in cold water to cover, drain, and parboil until soft; again drain,
put in earthen-ware dish or bean pot, add tomato sauce, cover, and
cook until beans have nearly absorbed sauce.

Tomato Sauce. Mix one cup stewed and strained tomatoes, one
cup white stock, six canned pimentoes rubbed through a sieve, one
onion finely chopped, two cloves garlic finely chopped, one-fourth
cup butter, and two teaspoons salt.

Saddle of Mutton

Mutton for a saddle should always be dressed at market. Wipe
meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan,
and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in hot oven
one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Serve
with Currant Jelly Sauce.

To Carve a Saddle of Mutton, cut this slices parallel with
backbone, then slip the knife under and separate slices from ribs.

Saddle of Mutton, Currant Mint Sauce

Follow directions for Saddle of Mutton, and serve with

Currant Mint Sauce. Separate two-thirds tumbler of currant jelly in
pieces, but do not beat it. Add one and one-half tablespoons finely
chopped mint leaves and shavings from the rind of one-fourth
orange.
Saddle of Lamb a l'Estragnon
Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in
dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake
in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen
minutes. Remove to hot serving dish and pour around.

Estragnon Sauce. Brown four tablespoons butter, add four
tablespoons flour (which has been previously browned), and pour
on gradually, while stirring constantly, two cups bouillon, and
one-half cup stock which has infused with one tablespoon tarragon
one hour.

Crown of Lamb

Select parts from two loins containing ribs, scrape flesh from bone
between ribs, as far as lean meat, and trim off backbone. Shape
each piece in a semicircle, having ribs outside, and sew pieces
together to form a crown. Trim ends of bones evenly, care being
taken that they are not left too long, and wrap each bone in a thin
strip of fat salt pork or insert in cubes of fat salt pork to prevent
bone from burning; then cover with buttered paper. Roast one and
one-fourth hours.

Remove pork from bones before serving, and fill centre with Puree
of Chestnuts.

Lamb en Casserole

Wipe two slices of lamb cut one and one-fourth inches thick from
centre of leg. Put in hot frying-pan, and turn frequently until seared
and browned on both sides. Brush over with melted butter, season
with salt and pepper, and bake in casserole dish twenty minutes or
until tender. Parboil three-fourths cup carrot, cut in strips, fifteen
minutes; drain, and saute in one tablespoon bacon fat to which has
been added one tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add to lamb,
with one cup potato balls, two cups thin Brown Sauce, three
tablespoons Sherry wine, and pepper to taste. Cook until potatoes
are soft, then add twelve small onions cooked until soft, then
drained and sauted in two tablespoons butter to which is added one
tablespoon sugar. Onions need not be sauted unless they are
desired glazed. Serve from casserole dish.

Mutton Curry

Wipe and cut meat from fore-quarter of mutton in one-inch pieces;
there should be three cupfuls. Put in kettle, cover with cold water,
and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain in colander and pour over
one quart cold water. Return meat to kettle, cover with one quart
boiling water, add three onions cut in slices, one-half teaspoon
peppercorns, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley. Simmer until
meat is tender, remove meat, strain liquor, and thicken with
one-fourth cup each of butter and flour cooked together; to the
flour add one-half teaspoon curry powder, one-half teaspoon salt,
and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Add meat to gravy reheat, and
serve with border of steamed rice.

Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy

Order three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter, cut in pieces for
serving. Wipe meat, put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and
cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove from water, cool,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter
or mutton fat. Arrange on platter, and pour around one and
one-half cups Brown Sauce made from liquor in which meat was
cooked after removing all fat. It is better to cook meat the day
before serving, as then fat may be more easily removed.

Mutton Broth

3 lbs: mutton (from the neck)
Few grains pepper
2 quarts cold water
3 tablespoons rice or
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons barley

Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut in small pieces. Put into
kettle with bones, and cover with cold water. Heat gradually to
boiling-point, skim, then season with salt and pepper. Cook slowly
until meat is tender, strain, and remove fat. Reheat to
boiling-point, add rice or barley, and cook until rice or barley is
tender. If barley is used, soak over night in cold water. Some of the
meat may be served with the broth.

Irish Stew with Dumplings

Wipe and cut in pieces three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter.
Put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours
or until tender. After cooking one hour add one-half cup each
carrot and turnip cut in one-half inch cubes, and one onion cut in
slices. Fifteen minutes before serving add four cups potatoes cut in
one-fourth inch slices, previously parboiled five minutes in boiling
water. Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold
water to form a thin smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper,
serve with Dumplings. (See p. 205.)

Scotch Broth

Wipe three pounds mutton cut from fore-quarter. Cut lean meat in
one-inch cubes, put in kettle, cover with three pints cold water,
bring quickly to boiling-point, skim, and add one-half cup barley
which has been soaked in cold water over night; simmer one and
one-half hours, or until meat is tender. Put bones in a second
kettle, cover with cold water, heat slowly to boiling-point, skim,
and boil one and one-half hours. Strain water from bones and add
to meat. Fry five minutes in two tablespoons butter, one-fourth cup
each of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, cut in one-half inch dice,
add to soup with salt and pepper to taste, and cook until vegetables
are soft. Thicken with two tablespoons each of butter and flour
cooked together. Add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley
just before serving. Rice may be used in place of barley.

Lambs' Kidneys I

Soak, pare, and cut in slices six kidneys, and sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Melt two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, pu\??\ in
kidneys, and cook five minutes; dredge thoroughly with flour, and
add two-thirds cup boiling water or hot Brown Stock. Cook five
minutes, add more salt and pepper if needed. Lemon juice, onion
juice, or Madeira wine may be used for additional flavor. Kidneys
must be cooked a short time, or for several hours; they are tender
after a few minutes' cooking, but soon toughen, and need hours of
cooking to again make them tender.

Lambs' Kidneys II

Soak, pare, trim, and slice six kidneys. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, saute in butter, and remove to a hot dish. Cook one-half
tablespoon finely chopped onion in two tablespoons butter until
brown; add three tablespoons flour, and pour on slowly one and
one-half cups hot stock. Season with salt and pepper, strain, add
kidneys, and one tablespoon Madeira wine.

Ragout of Kidneys

Soak lambs' kidneys one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, clean, cut
in slices, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute
in butter. Fry one sliced onion and one-half shallot, finely chopped,
in three tablespoons butter until yellow; add three tablespoons
flour and one and one-fourth cups Brown Stock. Cook five
minutes, strain, and add one-half cup mushroom caps peeled and
cut in quarters; season with salt and pepper, add kidneys, and serve
as soon as heated. White wine may be added if desired.

Kidney Rolls

Mix one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one-half small onion, finely
chopped, and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Season
with salt and pepper and moisten with beaten egg. Spread mixture
on thin slices of bacon, fasten around pieces of lambs' kidney,
using skewers. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes.

WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB

Minced Lamb on Toast

Remove dry pieces of skin and gristle from remnants of cold roast
lamb, then chop meat. Heat in well-buttered frying-pan, season
with salt, pepper, and celery salt, and moisten with a little hot
water or stock; or, after seasoning, dredge well with flour, stir, and
add enough stock to make thin gravy. Pour over small slices of
buttered toast.

Scalloped Lamb

Remove skin and fat from thin slices of cold roast lamb, and
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover bottom of a buttered
baking-dish with buttered cracker crumbs; cover meat with boiled
macaroni, and add another layer of meat and macaroni. Pour over
Tomato Sauce, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in
hot oven until crumbs are brown. Cold boiled rice may be used in
place of macaroni.

Blanquette of Lamb

Cut remnants of cooked lamb in cubes or strips. Reheat two cups
meat in two cups sauce, sauce made of one-fourth cup each of
butter and flour, one cup White Stock, and one cup of milk which
has been scalded with two blades of mace. Season with salt and
pepper, and add one tablespoon Mushroom Catsup, or any other
suitable table sauce. Garnish with large crotons, serve around
green peas, or in a potato border, sprinkle with finely chopped
parsley.

Barbecued Lamb

Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices and reheat in sauce made by
melting two tablespoons butter, adding three-fourths tablespoon
vinegar, one-fourth cup currant jelly, one-fourth teaspoon French
mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste.

Rechauffe of Lamb

Brown two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons
flour, and stir until well browned; then add one-fourth teaspoon,
each, curry powder, mustard, and salt, and one-eighth teaspoon
paprika. Add, gradually, one cup brown stock and two tablespoons
sherry wine. Reheat cold roast lamb cut in thin slices in sauce.

Salmi of Lamb

Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices. Cook five minutes two
tablespoons butter with one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion.
Add lamb, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with one cup
Brown Sauce, or one cup cold lamb gravy seasoned with
Worcestershire, Harvey, or Elizabeth Sauce. Cook until thoroughly
heated. Arrange slices overlapping one another lengthwise of
platter, pour around sauce, and garnish with toast points. A few
sliced mushrooms or stoned olives improve this sauce.

Casserole of Rice and Meat

Line a mould, slightly greased, with steamed rice. Fill the centre
with two cups cold, finely chopped, cooked mutton, highly
seasoned with salt, pepper, cayenne, celery salt, onion juice and
lemon juice; then add one-fourth cup cracker crumbs, one egg
slightly beaten, and enough hot stock or water to moisten. Cover
meat with rice, cover rice with buttered paper to keep out moisture
while steaming, and steam forty-five minutes. Serve on a platter
surrounded with Tomato Sauce. Veal may be used in place of
mutton.

Breast of Lamb

Wipe a breast of lamb, put in kettle with bouquet of sweet herbs, a
small onion stuck with six cloves, one-half tablespoon salt,
one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and one-fourth cup each carrot and
turnip cut in dice. Cover with boiling water, and simmer until
bones will slip out easily. Take meat from water, remove bones,
and press under weight. When cool, trim in shape, dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Spanish
Sauce. Small pieces of cold lamb may be sprinkled with salt and
pepper, dipped in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fried in deep fat.

Chapter XIV. VEAL.

VEAL is the meat obtained from a young calf killed when six to
eight weeks old. Veal from a younger animal is very
unwholesome, and is liable to provoke serious gastric
disturbances. Veal contains a much smaller percentage of fat than
beef or mutton, is less nutritious, and (though from a young
creature) more difficult of digestion. Like lamb, it is not improved
by long hanging, but should be eaten soon after killing and
dressing. It should always be remembered that the flesh of young
animals does not keep fresh as long as that of older ones. Veal is
divided in same manner as lamb, into fore and hind quarters. The
fore-quarter is subdivided into breast, shoulder, and neck; the
hind-quarter into loin, leg, and knuckle. Cutlets, fillets (cushion),
and fricandeau are cut from the thick part of leg.

Good veal may be known by its pinkish-colored flesh and white
fat; when the flesh lacks color, it has been taken from a creature
which was too young to kill for food, or, if of the right age, was
bled before killing. Veal may be obtained throughout the year, but
is in season during the spring. Veal should be thoroughly cooked;
being deficient in fat and having but little flavor, pork or butter
should be added while cooking, and more seasoning is required
than for other meats.

Veal Cutlets

Use slices of veal from leg cut one-half inch thick. Wipe, remove
bone and skin, then cut in pieces for serving. The long,
irregular-shaped pieces may be rolled, and fastened with small
wooden skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in flour, egg,
and crumbs; fry slowly, until well browned, in salt pork fat or
butter; then remove cutlets to stewpan and pour over one and
one-half cups Brown Sauce. Place on back of range and cook
slowly forty minutes, or until cutlets are tender.

Veal may be cooked first in boiling water until tender, then
crumbed and fried. The water in which veal was cooked may be
used for sauce. Arrange on hot platter, strain sauce and pour
around cutlets, and garnish with parsley.

Brown Sauce. Brown three tablespoons butter, add three
tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned. Add gradually one
and one-half cups stock or water, or half stock and half stewed and
strained tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and
Worcestershire Sauce. The trimmings from veal (including skin
and bones) may be covered with one and one-half cups cold water,
allowed to heat slowly to boiling-point, then cooked, strained, and
used for sauce.

Veal Chops Bavarian

Wipe six loin chops and put in a stewpan with one-half onion,
eight slices carrot, two stalks celery, one-half teaspoon
peppercorns, four cloves, and two tablespoons butter. Cover with
boiling water and cook until tender. Drain, season with salt and
pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on
brown paper. Arrange chops on hot serving dish and surround with
boiled flat maccaroni to which Soubise Sauce is added.

Fricassee of Veal

Wipe two pounds sliced veal, cut from loin, and cover with boiling
water; add one small onion, two stalks celery, and six slices carrot.
Cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove meat, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in pork fat. Strain liquor
(there should be two cups). Melt four tablespoons butter, add four
tablespoons flour and strained liquor. Bring to boiling-point,
season with salt and pepper, and pour around meat. Garnish with
parsley.

Minuten Fleisch

11/2 lbs. veal cut in thin slices
Flour
11/3 cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper
Juice 1 lemon
2/3 cup claret wine
2 sprigs parsley

Pound veal until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces for
serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in bakingpan, pour over
wine, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip in flour, arrange in
two buttered pans, and pour over remaining ingredients and wine
which was drained from meat. Cover, and cook slowly until meat
is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour over sauce remaining
in pan.

Loin of Veal a la Jardiniere

Wipe four pounds loin of veal, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
dredge with flour. Put one-fourth cup butter in deep stewpan; when
melted, add veal and brown entire surface of meat, watching
carefully and turning often, that it may not burn. Add one cup hot
water, cover closely, and cook slowly two hours, or until meat is
tender, adding more water as needed, using in all about three cups.
Remove meat, thicken stock remaining in pan with flour diluted
with enough cold water to pour easily. Surround the meat with two
cups each boiled turnips and carrots, cut in half-inch cubes, and
potatoes cut in balls. Serve gravy in a tureen.

Braised Shoulder of Veal

Bone, stuff, and sew in shape five pounds shoulder of veal; then
cook same as Braised Beef, adding with vegetables two sprigs
thyme and one of marjoram.

English Meat Pie

Knuckle of veal
Blade of mace
1 slice onion
2 teaspoons salt
1 slice carrot
1/2 lb. lean raw ham
Bit of bay leaf
4 tablespoons flour
Sprig of parsley
4 tablespoons butter
12 peppercorns
2 doz. bearded oysters

Remove meat from bones. Cover bones with cold water, add
vegetables and seasonings, and heat slowly to boilingpoint. Add
meat, boil five minutes, and let simmer until meat is tender;
remove meat and reduce stock to two cups. Put ham in frying-pan,
cover with lukewarm water, and let stand on back of range one
hour. Brown butter, and flour, and when well browned add stock;
then add veal and ham each cut into cubes. Let simmer twenty
minutes and add oysters. Put in serving dish and cover with top
made of puff paste. It is much better to bake the paste separately
and cover pie just before sending to table.

Roast Veal

The leg, cushion (thickest part of leg), and loin, are suitable pieces
for roasting. When leg is to be used, it should be boned at market.
Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, stuff, and sew in shape.
Place on rack in dripping-pan, dredge meat and bottom of pan with
flour, and place around meat strips of fat salt pork. Bake three or
four hours in moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with
one-third cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water, until
used, then baste with fat in pan. Serve with brown gravy.

Fricandeau of Veal

Lard a cushion of veal and roast or braise.

India Curry

Wipe a slice of veal one-half inch thick, weighing one and
one-half pounds, and cook in frying-pan without butter, quickly
searing one side, then the other. Place on a board and cut in one
and one-half inch pieces. Fry two sliced onions in one-half cup
butter until brown, remove onions, and add to the butter, meat, and
one-half tablespoon curry powder, then cover with boiling water.
Cook slowly until meat is tender. Thicken with flour diluted with
enough cold water to pour easily; then add one teaspoon vinegar.
Serve with a border of steamed rice.

Veal Birds

Wipe slices of veal from leg, cut as thinly as possible, then remove
bone, skin, and fat. Pound until one-fourth inch thick and cut in
pieces two and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches
wide, each piece making a bird. Chop trimmings of meat, adding
for every three birds a piece of fat salt pork cut one inch square
and one-fourth inch thick; pork also to be chopped. Add to
trimmings and pork one-half their measure of fine cracker crumbs,
and season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne, poultry seasoning,
lemon juice, and onion juice. Moisten with beaten egg and hot
water or stock. Spread each piece with thin layer of mixture and
avoid having mixture come close to edge. Roll, and fasten with
skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry
in hot butter until a golden brown. Put in stewpan, add cream to
half cover meat, cook slowly twenty minutes or until tender. Serve
on small pieces of toast, straining cream remaining in pan over
birds and toast, and garnish with parsley. A Thin White Sauce in
place of cream may be served around birds.

Veal Loaf I

Separate a knuckle of veal in pieces b sawing through bone. Wipe,
put in kettle with one pound lean veal and one onion; cover with
boiling water, and cook slowly until veal is tender. Drain, chop
meat finely, and season highly with salt and pepper. Garnish
bottom of a mould with slices of "hard-boiled" eggs and parsley.
Put in layer of meat, layer of thinly sliced "hard-boiled" eggs,
sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and cover with remaining
meat. Pour over liquor, which should be reduced to one cupful.
Press and chill, turn on a dish, and garnish with parsley.

Veal Loaf II

Wipe three pounds lean veal, and remove skin and membrane.
Chop finely or force through meat chopper, then add one-half
pound fat salt pork (also finely chopped), six common crackers
(rolled), four tablespoons cream, two tablespoons lemon juice, one
tablespoon salt, one-half tablespoon pepper, and a few drops onion
juice. Pack in a small bread-pan, smooth evenly on top, brush with
white of egg, and bake slowly three hours, basting with one-fourth
cup pork fat. Prick frequently while baking, that pork fat may be
absorbed by meat. Cool, remove from pan, and cut in thin slices
for serving.

Broiled Veal Kidneys

Order veal kidneys with the suet left on. Trim, split, and broil ten
minutes. Arrange on pieces of toast and pour over melted butter
seasoned with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice.

Veal Kidneys a la Canfield

Trim kidneys, cook in Brown Stock ten minutes, drain, and cut in
slices. Arrange alternate slices of kidney and thinly sliced bacon
on skewers with a fresh mushroom cap at either end of each
skewer. Broil until bacon is crisp and arrange on pieces of toast.
Pour over sauce made from stock in which kidneys ere cooked,
seasoned with salt, cayenne, and Madeira wine.

WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL

Minced Veal on Toast

Prepare as Minced Lamb on Toast, using veal in place of lamb.

Blanquette of Veal

Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in small strips, in one and
one-half cups White Sauce I. Serve in a potato border and sprinkle
over all finely chopped parsley.

Ragot of Veal

Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in cubes, in one and one-half
cups Brown Sauce seasoned with one teaspoon Worcestershire
Sauce, few drops of onion juice, and a few grains of cayenne.

Chapter XV. SWEETBREADS.

A SWEETBREAD is the thymus gland of lamb or calf, but in
cookery, veal sweetbreads only are considered. It is prenatally
developed, of unknown function, and as soon as calf is taken from
liquid food it gradually disappears. Pancreas, stomach sweetbread,
is sold in some sections of the country, but in our markets this
custom is not practised. Sweetbreads are a reputed table delicacy,
and a valuable addition to the menu of the convalescent.

A sweetbread consists of two parts, connected by tubing and
membranes. The round, compact part is called the heart
sweetbread, as its position is nearer the heart; the other part is
called the throat sweetbread. When sweetbread is found in market
separated, avoid buying two of the throat sweetbreads, as the heart
sweetbread is more desirable.

Sweetbreads spoil very quickly. They should be removed from
paper as soon as received from market, plunged into cold water
and allowed to stand one hour, drained, and put into acidulated
salted boiling water then allowed to cook slowly twenty minutes;
again drained, and plunged into cold water, that they may be kept
white and firm. Sweetbreads are always parboiled in this manner
for subsequent cooking.

Broiled Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, split cross-wise, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and broil five minutes. Serve with Lemon Butter.

Creamed Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, and cut in one-half inch cubes, or separate in
small pieces. Reheat in one cup White Sauce II. Creamed
Sweetbread may be served on toast, or used as filling for patty
cases or Swedish Timbales.

Creamed Sweetbread and Chicken

Reheat equal parts of cold cooked chicken, and sweetbread cut in
dice, in White Sauce II.

Sweetbread a la Poulette

Reheat sweetbread, cut in cubes, in one cup Bechamel Sauce.

Sweetbreads, Country Style

Parboil sweetbreads, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge
with flour. Arrange in baking-dish, brush over with melted butter,
allowing two tablespoons to each pair of sweetbreads, and cover
with thin slices fat salt pork. Bake in a hot oven over twenty-five
minutes, basting twice during the cooking, and remove pork during
the last five minutes of the cooking.

Larded Sweetbread

Parboil a sweetbread, lard the upper side, and bake until well
browned, basting with Meat Glaze.

Sweetbreads a la Napoli

Parboil a large sweetbread and cut in eight pieces. Cook in hot
frying-pan with a small quantity of butter, adding enough beef
extract to give sweetbread a glazed appearance. Cut bread in
slices, shape with a circular cutter three and one-half inches in
diameter, and toast. Spread each piece with two tablespoons grated
Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and paprika and moistened
with two tablespoons heavy cream. Arrange one piece of
sweetbread on each piece of toast and season with salt and pepper.
Put in individual glass-covered dishes, having two tablespoons
cream in each dish. Cover each piece of sweetbread with sauted
mushroom cap, put on glass covers, and bake in a moderate oven
eight minutes.

Braised Sweetbreads Eugenie

Parboil a sweetbread in Sherry wine twelve minutes. Drain, cool,
cut in four pieces, and lard. Cook in frying-pan same as
Sweetbreads a la Napoli. Peel mushroom caps, cover with Sherry
wine, let stand one hour, drain, and saute in butter. Arrange on
circular pieces of toast, over each of which has been poured one
teaspoon wine drained from mushroom caps, and season with salt
and pepper. Pile five or six mushroom caps on each piece of
sweetbread, add two tablespoons heavy cream, and bake in a
moderate oven, eight minutes. Cook in individual glass-covered
dishes.

Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips

Parboil a sweetbread, split, and cut in pieces shaped like a small
cutlet, or cut in circular pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip
in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and saute in butter. Arrange in a circle
around Creamed Asparagus Tips.

Sweetbread with Tomato Sauce

Prepare as Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips, saute in butter
or fry in deep fat, and serve with Tomato Sauce.

Sweetbread and Bacon

Parboil a sweetbread, cut in small pieces, dip in flour, egg, and
crumbs, and arrange alternately with pieces of bacon on small
skewers, having four pieces sweetbread and three of bacon on each
skewer. Fry in deep fat, and drain. Arrange in a circle around
mound of green peas.

Chapter XVI. PORK.

PORK is the flesh and fat of pig or hog. Different parts of the
creature, when dressed, take different names.

The chine and spareribs, which correspond to the loin in lamb and
veal, are used for roasts or steaks. Two ribs are left on the chine.
The hind legs furnish hams. These are cured, salted, and smoked.
Sugar-cured hams are considered the best. Pickle, to which is
added light brown sugar, molasses, and saltpetre, is introduced
close to bone; hams are allowed to hang one week, then smoked
with hickory wood. Shoulders are usually corned, or salted and
smoked, though sometimes cooked fresh. Pigs' feet are boiled until
tender, split, and covered with vinegar made from white wine.
Hocks, the part just above the feet, are corned, and much used by
Germans. Heads are soused, and cooked by boiling. The flank,
which lies just below the ribs, is salted and smoked, and furnishes
bacon. The best pieces of fat salt pork come from the back, on
either side of backbone.

Fat, when separated from flesh and membrane, is tried out and
called lard. Leaf-lard is the best, and is tried out from the leaf
shaped pieces of solid fat which lie inside the flank. Sausages are
trimmings of lean and fat meat, minced, highly seasoned, and
forced into thin casings made of the prepared entrails. Little pigs
(four weeks old) are sometimes killed, dressed, and roasted whole.

Pork contains the largest percentage of fat of any meat. When
eaten fresh it is the most difficult of digestion, and although found
in market through the entire year, it should be but seldom served,
and then only during the winter months. By curing, salting, and
smoking, pork is rendered more wholesome. Bacon, next to butter
and cream, is the most easily assimilated of all fatty foods.

Pork Chops

Wipe chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a hot
frying-pan, and cook slowly until tender, and well browned on
each side.

Pork Chops with Fried Apples

Arrange Pork Chops on a platter, and surround with slices of
apples, cut one-half inch thick, fried in the fat remaining in pan.

Roast Pork

Wipe pork, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a rack in a
dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake
in a moderate oven three or four hours, basting every fifteen
minutes with fat in pan. Make a gravy as for other roasts.

Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes

Wipe tenderloins, put in a dripping-pan, and brown quickly in a
hot oven; then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake forty-five
minutes, basting every fifteen minutes.

Sweet Potatoes. Pare six potatoes and parboil ten minutes, drain,
put in pan with meat, and cook until soft, basting when basting
meat.

Breakfast Bacon
See Liver and Bacon,

Fried Salt Pork with Codfish

Cut fat salt pork in one-fourth inch slices, cut gashes one-third
inch apart in slices, nearly to rind. Try out in a hot frying-pan until
brown and crisp, occasionally turning off fat from pan. Serve
around strips of codfish which have been soaked in pan of
lukewarm water and allowed to stand on back of range until soft.
Serve with Drawn Butter Sauce, boiled potatoes, and beets.

Broiled Ham

Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, wipe,
and broil three minutes.

Fried Ham and Eggs

Wipe ham, remove one-half outside layer of fat, and place in
frying-pan. Cover with tepid water and let stand on back of range
thirty minutes; drain, and dry on a towel. Heat pan, put in ham,
brown quickly on one side, turn and brown other side; or soak ham
over night, dry, and cook in hot frying-pan. If cooked too long,
ham will become hard and dry. Serve with fried eggs cooked in the
tried-out ham fat.

Barbecued Ham

Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water; drain, wipe,
and cook in a hot frying-pan until slightly browned. Remove to
serving dish and add to fat in pan three tablespoons vinegar mixed
with one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one-half teaspoon sugar,
and one-eighth teaspoon paprika. When thoroughly heated pour
over ham and serve at once.

Boiled Ham
Soak several hours or over night in cold water to cover. Wash
thoroughly, trim off hard skin near end of bone, put in a kettle,
cover with cold water, heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly until
tender. See Time Table for Cooking, page 28. Remove kettle from
range and set aside, that ham may partially cool; then take from
water, remove outside skin, sprinkle with sugar and fine cracker
crumbs, and stick with cloves one-half inch apart. Bake one hour
in a slow oven. Serve cold, thinly sliced.

Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce

Place a whole baked ham in the oven fifteen minutes before
serving time, that outside fat may be heated. Remove to a hot
platter, garnish bone end with a paper ruffle, and serve with
Champagne Sauce.

Westphalian Ham

These hams are imported from Germany, and need no additional
cooking. Cut in very thin slices for serving.

Broiled Pigs' Feet

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil six to eight minutes.
Serve with Matre d'Htel Butter or Sauce Piquante.

Fried Pigs' Feet

Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Sausages

Cut apart a string of sausages. Pierce each sausage several times
with a carving fork. Put in frying-pan, cover with boiling water,
and cook fifteen minutes; drain, return to frying-pan, and fry until
well browned. Serve with fried apples. Sausages are often broiled
same as bacon and apples baked in pan under them.

Boston Baked Beans

Pick over one quart pea beans, cover with cold water, and soak
over night. In morning, drain, cover with fresh water, heat slowly
(keeping water below boiling-point), and cook until skins will
burst, which is best determined by taking a few beans on the tip of
a spoon and blowing on them, when skins will burst if sufficiently
cooked. Beans thus tested must, of course, be thrown away. Drain
beans, throwing bean-water out of doors, not in sink. Scald rind of
three-fourths pound fat salt pork, scrape, remove one-fourth inch
slice and put in bottom of bean-pot. Cut through rind of remaining
pork every one-half inch, making cuts one inch deep. Put beans in
pot and bury pork in beans, leaving rind exposed. Mix one
tablespoon salt, one tablespoon molasses, and three tablespoons
sugar; add one cup boiling water, and pour over beans; then add
enough more boiling water to cover beans. Cover bean-pot, put in
oven, and bake slowly six or eight hours, uncovering the last hour
of cooking, that rind may become brown and crisp. Add water as
needed. Many feel sure that by adding with seasonings one-half
tablespoon mustard, the beans are more easily digested. If pork
mixed with lean is preferred, use less salt.

The fine reputation which Boston Baked Beans have gained has
been attributed to the earthen bean-pot with small top and bulging
sides in which they are supposed to be cooked. Equally good beans
have often been eaten where a five-pound lard pail was substituted
for the broken bean pot.

Yellow-eyed beans are very good when baked.

Chapter XVII. POULTRY AND GAME.

POULTRY includes all domestic birds suitable for food except
pigeon and squab. Examples: chicken, fowl, turkey, duck, goose,
etc. Game includes such birds and animals suitable for food as are
pursued and taken in field and forest. Examples: quail, partridge,
wild duck, plover, deer, etc.

The flesh of chicken, fowl, and turkey has much shorter fibre than
that of ruminating animals, and is not intermingled with fat, the fat
always being found in layers directly under the skin, and
surrounding the intestines. Chicken, fowl, and turkey are
nutritious, and chicken is specially easy of digestion. The white
meat found on breast and wing is more readily digested than the
dark meat. The legs, on account of constant motion, are of a
coarser fibre and darker color.

Since incubators have been so much used for hatching chickens,
small birds suitable for broiling may be always found in market.
Chickens which appear in market during January weighing about
one and one-half pounds are called spring chickens.

Fowl is found in market throughout the year, but is at its best from
March until June.

Philadelphia, until recently, furnished our market with
Philadelphia chickens and capons, but now Massachusetts
furnishes equally good ones, which are found in market from
December to June. They are very large, plump, and superior
eating. At an early age they are deprived of the organs of
reproduction, penned, and specially fatted for killing. They are
recognized by the presence of head, tail, and wing feathers.

Turkeys are found in market throughout the year, but are best
during the winter months. Tame ducks and geese are very
indigestible on account of the large quantity of fat they contain.
Goose meat is thoroughly infiltrated with fat, containing
sometimes forty to forty-five per cent. Pigeons, being old birds,
need long, slow cooking to make them tender. Squabs (young
pigeons) make a delicious tidbit for the convalescent, and are often
the first meat allowed a patient by the physician.

The flesh of game, with the exception of wild duck and wild geese,
is tender, contains less fat than poultry, is of fine though strong
flavor, and easy of digestion. Game meat is usually of dark color,
partridge and quail being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare.
Venison, the flesh of deer, is short-fibred, dark-colored, highly
savored, tender, and easy of digestion; being highly savored, it
often disagrees with those of weak digestion.

Geese are in market throughout the year, Massachusetts and Rhode
Island furnishing specially good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is
known as a green goose. They may be found in market from May
to September. Young geese which appear in market September
first and continue through December are called goslings. They
have been hatched during May and June, and then fatted for
market.
Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called
ducklings. Canvasback Ducks have gained a fine reputation
throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of
November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks
earlier, and are about as good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and
much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is due to the wild
celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in
market during the fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard,
Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs.

Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first,
the law forbidding their being killed at any other time in the year.
The same is true of partridge, but both are frozen and kept in cold
storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large
numbers to Eastern markets. Grouse (prairie chicken) are always
obtainable, fresh ones in the fall; later, those kept in cold storage.
Plover may be bought from April until December.

To Select Poultry and Game. A chicken is known by soft feet,
smooth skin, and soft cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance
of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird, while the presence of
long hairs denotes age. In a fowl the feet have become hard and
dry with coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has
ossified. Cock turkeys are usually better eating than hen turkeys,
unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey
should be plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of
breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese abound in pinfeathers.
Small birds should be plump, have soft feet and pliable bills.

To Dress and Clean Poultry. Remove hairs and down by holding
the bird over a flame (from gas, alcohol, or burning paper) and
constantly changing position until all parts of surface have been
exposed to flame; this is known as singeing. Cut off the head and
draw out pinfeathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the
skin around the leg one and one-half inches below the leg joint,
care being taken not to cut tendons; place leg at this cut over edge
of board, press downward to snap the bone, then take foot in right
hand, holding bird firmly in left hand, and pull off foot, and with it
the tendons. In old birds the tendons must be drawn separately,
which is best accomplished by using a steel skewer. Make an
incision through skin below breastbone, just large enough to admit
the hand. With the hand remove entrails, gizzard, heart, and liver;
the last three named constitute what is known as giblets. The gall
bladder, lying on the under surface of the right lobe of the liver, is
removed with liver, and great care must be taken that it is not
broken, as a small quantity of the bile which it contains would
impart a bitter flavor to the parts with which it came in contact.
Enclosed by the ribs, on either side of backbone, may be found the
lungs, of spongy consistency and red color. Care must be taken
that every part of them is removed. Kidneys, lying in the hollow
near end of backbone, must also be removed. By introducing first
two fingers under skin close to neck, the windpipe may be easily
found and withdrawn; also the crop, which will he found adhering
to skin close to breast. Draw down neck skin, and cut off neck
close to body, leaving skin long enough to fasten under the back.
Remove oil bag, and wash bird by allowing cold water to run
through it, not allowing bird to soak in cold water. Wipe inside and
outside, looking carefully to see that everything has been
withdrawn. If there is disagreeable odor, suggesting that fowl may
have been kept too long, clean at once, wash inside and out with
soda water, and sprinkle inside with charcoal and place some
under wings.

Poultry dressed at market seldom have tendons removed unless so
ordered. It is always desirable to have them withdrawn, as they
become hard and bony during cooking. It is the practice of
market-men to cut a gash through the skin, to easier reach crop and
windpipe. This gash must be sewed before stuffing, and causes the
bird to look less attractive when cooked.

To Cut up a Fowl. Singe, draw out pinfeathers, cut off head,
remove tendons and oil bag. Cut through skin between leg and
body close to body, bend back leg (thus breaking ligaments), cut
through flesh, and separate at joint. Separate the upper part of leg,
second joint, from lower part of leg, drumstick, as leg is separated
from body. Remove wing by cutting through skin and flesh around
upper wing joint which lies next to body, then disjoint from body.
Cut off tip of wing and separate wing at middle joint. Remove leg
and wing from other side. Separate breast from back by cutting
through skin, beginning two inches below breastbone and passing
knife between terminus of small ribs on either side and extending
cut to collar-bone. Before removing entrails, gizzard, heart, liver,
lungs, kidneys, crop, and windpipe, observe their position, that the
anatomy of the bird may be understood. The back is sometimes
divided by cutting through the middle crosswise. The wishbone,
with adjoining meat, is frequently removed, and the breast meat
may be separated in two parts by cutting through flesh close to
breastbone with cleaver. Wipe pieces, excepting back, with
cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water. Back piece needs thorough
washing.
To Clean Giblets. Remove thin membrane, arteries, veins, and
clotted blood around heart. Separate gall bladder from liver,
cutting off any of liver that may have a greenish tinge. Cut fat and
membranes from gizzard. Make a gash through thickest part of
gizzard, and cut as far as inner lining, being careful not to pierce it.
Remove the inner sack and discard. Wash giblets and cook until
tender, with neck and tips of wings, putting them in cold water and
heating water quickly that some of the flavor may be drawn out
into stock, which is to be used for making gravy.

To Stuff Poultry. Put stuffing by spoonfuls in neck end, using
enough to sufficiently fill the skin, that bird may look plump when
served. Where cracker stuffing is used, allowance must be made
for the swelling of crackers, otherwise skin may burst during
cooking. Put remaining stuffing in body; if the body is full, sew
skin; if not full, bring skin together with a skewer.

To Truss Fowl. Draw thighs close to body and hold by inserting a
steel skewer under middle joint running it through body, coming
out under middle joint on other side. Cut piece three-fourths inch
wide from neck skin, and with it fasten legs together at ends; or
cross drumsticks, tie securely with a long string, and fasten to tail.
Place wings close to body and hold them by inserting a second
skewer through wing, body, and wing on opposite side. Draw neck
skin under back and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Turn bird
on its breast. Cross string attached to tail piece and draw it around
each end of lower skewer; again cross string and draw around each
end of upper skewer; fasten string in a knot and cut off ends. In
birds that are not stuffed legs are often passed through incisions
cut in body under bones near tail.

To Dress Birds for Broiling. Singe, wipe, and with a sharp-pointed
knife, beginning at back of neck, make a cut through backbone the
entire length of bird. Lay open the bird and remove contents from
inside. Cut out rib bones on either side of backbone, remove from
breastbone, then cut through tendons at joints.

To Fillet a Chicken. Remove skin from breast, and with a small
sharp knife begin at end of collar-bone and cut through flesh,
following close to wish and breast bones the entire length of meat.
Raise flesh with fingers, and with knife free the piece of meat
from bones which lie under it. Cut meat away from wing joint; this
solid piece of breast is meat known as a fillet. This meat is easily
separated in two parts. The upper, larger part is called the large
fillet; the lower part the mignon fillet. The tough skin on the
outside of large fillet should be removed, also the sinew from
mignon fillet. To remove tough skin, place large fillet on a board,
upper side down, make an incision through flesh at top of fillet,
and cut entire length of fillet, holding knife as close to skin as
possible. Trim edges, that fillet may look shapely.

Broiled Chicken

Dress for broiling, following directions on page 244. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and place in a well-greased broiler. Broil twenty
minutes over a clear fire, watching carefully and turning broiler so
that all parts may be equally browned. The flesh side must be
exposed to the fire the greater part of time, as the skin side will
brown quickly. Remove to a hot platter, spread with soft butter,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Chickens are so apt to burn
while broiling that many prefer to partially cook in oven. Place
chicken in dripping-pan, skin side down, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dot over with butter, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven;
then broil to finish cooking. Guinea chickens are becoming
popular cooked in this way.

Boiled Fowl

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl, tie in cheese-cloth, place
on trivet in a kettle, half surround with boiling water, cover, and
cook slowly until tender, turning occasionally. Add salt the last
hour of cooking. Serve with Egg, Oyster, or Celery Sauce. It is not
desirable to stuff a boiled fowl.

Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce

Prepare and cook a capon same as Boiled Fowl, and serve
surrounded with Cauliflower Sauce and garnished with parsley.

Chicken a la Providence

Prepare and boil a chicken, following recipe for Boiled Fowl. The
liquor should be reduced to two cups, and used for making sauce,
with two tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together. Add
to sauce one-half cup each of cooked carrot (cut in fancy shapes)
and green peas, one teaspoon lemon juice, yolks two eggs, salt and
pepper. Place chicken on hot platter, surround with sauce, and
sprinkle chicken and sauce with one-half tablespoon finely
chopped parsley.

Stewed Chicken with Onions

Dress, clean, and cut in pieces for serving, two chickens. Cook in a
small quantity of water with eighteen tiny young onions. Remove
chicken to serving-dish as soon as tender, and when onions are soft
drain from stock and reduce stock to one and one-half cups. Make
sauce of three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons flour, stock,
and one-half cup heavy cream; then add yolks three eggs, salt,
pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Pour sauce over chicken and
onions.

Chicken a la Stanley

Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one large onion thinly sliced, and
two broilers cut in pieces for serving; cover, and cook slowly ten
minutes; then add one cup Chicken Stock, and cook until meat is
tender. Remove chickens, rub stock and onions through a sieve,
and add one and one-half tablespoons each butter and flour cooked
together. Add cream to make sauce of the right consistency.
Season with salt and pepper. Arrange chicken on serving dish,
pour around sauce, and garnish dish with bananas cut in diagonal
slices dipped in flour and sauted in butter.

Chili Con Carni

Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens.
Season with salt and pepper, and saute in butter. Remove seeds
and veins from eight red peppers, cover with boiling water, and
cook until soft; mash, and rub through a sieve. Add one teaspoon
salt, one onion finely chopped, two cloves of garlic finely
chopped, the chicken, and boiling water to cover. Cook until
chicken is tender. Remove to serving dish, and thicken sauce with
three tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together; there
should be one and one-half cups sauce. Canned pimentoes may be
used in place of red peppers.

Roast Chicken

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a chicken. Place on its back on rack in
a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast and
legs with three tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed
with two tablespoons flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place
in a hot oven, and when flour is well browned, reduce the heat,
then baste. Continue basting every ten minutes until chicken is
cooked. For basting, use one-fourth cup butter, melted in
two-thirds cup boiling water, and after this is gone, use fat in pan,
and when necessary to prevent flour burning, add one cup boiling
water. During cooking, turn chicken frequently, that it may brown
evenly. If a thick crust is desired, dredge bird with flour two or
three times during cooking. If a glazed surface is preferred, spread
bird with butter, omitting flour, and do not dredge during baking.
When breast meat is tender, bird is sufficiently cooked. A
four-pound chicken requires about one and one-half hours.

Stuffing I

1 cup cracker crumbs
1/3 cup boiling water
1/3 cup butter
Salt and Pepper
Powdered sage, summer savory, or marjoram

Melt butter in water, and pour over crackers, to which seasonings
have been added.

Stuffing II

1 cup cracker crumbs
Salt
1/4 cup melted butter
Pepper
Sage of Poultry Seasoning
1 cup scalded milk

Make same as Stuffing I.

Gravy

Pour off liquid in pan in which chicken has been roasted. From
liquid skim off four tablespoons fat; return fat to pan, and brown
with four tablespoons flour; add two cups stock in which giblets,
neck, and tips of wings have been cooked. Cook five minutes,
season with salt and pepper, then strain. The remaining fat may be
used, in place of butter, for frying potatoes, or for basting when
roasting another chicken.

For Giblet Gravy, add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and
gizzard) finely chopped.

Braised Chicken

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl. Try out two slices fat
salt pork cut one-fourth inch thick; remove scraps, and add to fat
five slices carrot cut in small cubes, one-half sliced onion, two
sprigs thyme, one sprig parsley, and one bay leaf, then cook ten
minutes; add two tablespoons butter, and fry fowl, turning often
until surface is well browned. Place on trivet in a deep pan, pour
over fat, and add two cups boiling water or Chicken Stock. Cover,
and bake in slow oven until tender, basting often, and adding more
water if needed. Serve with a sauce made from stock in pan, first
straining and removing the fat.

Chicken Fricassee

Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling
water, and cook slowly until tender, adding salt to water when
chicken is about half done. Remove from water, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter or pork fat.
Arrange chicken on pieces of dry toast placed on a hot platter,
having wings and second joints opposite each other, breast in
centre of platter, and drumsticks crossed just below second joints.
Pour around White or Brown Sauce. Reduce stock to two cups,
strain, and remove the fat. Melt three tablespoons butter, add four
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups
stock. Just before serving, add one-half cup cream, and salt and
pepper to taste; or make a sauce by browning butter and flour and
adding two cups stock, then seasoning with salt and pepper.

Fowls, which are always made tender by long cooking, are
frequently utilized in this way. If chickens are employed, they are
sauted without previous boiling, and allowed to simmer fifteen to
twenty minutes in the sauce.

Fried Chicken

Fried chicken is prepared and cooked same as Chicken Fricassee,
with Brown Sauce, chicken always being used, never fowl.

Fried Chicken (Southern Style)

Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens.
Plunge in cold water, drain but do not wipe. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and coat thickly with flour, having as much flour adhere to
chicken as possible. Try out one pound fat salt pork cut in pieces,
and cook chicken slowly in fat until tender and well browned.
Serve with White Sauce made of half milk and half cream.

Maryland Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up two young chickens. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and soft crumbs, place in a
well-greased dripping-pan, and bake thirty minutes in a hot oven,
basting after first five minutes of cooking with one-third cup
melted butter. Arrange on platter and pour over two cups Cream
Sauce.

Blanketed Chicken

Split and clean two broilers. Place in dripping-pan and sprinkle
with salt, pepper, two tablespoons green pepper finely chopped,
and one tablespoon chives finely cut. Cover with strips of bacon
thinly cut, and bake in a hot oven until chicken is tender. Remove
to serving dish and pour around the following sauce:

To three tablespoons fat, taken from dripping-pan, add four
tablespoons flour and one and one-half cups thin cream, or half
chicken stock and half cream may be used. Season with salt and
pepper.

Chicken a la Merango

Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and saute in salt pork fat. Put in a stewpan,
cover with sauce, and cook slowly until chicken is tender. Add
one-half can mushrooms cut in quarters, and cook five minutes.
Arrange chicken on serving dish and pour around sauce; garnish
with parsley.

Sauce

1/4 cup butter
2 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1/2 cup stewed and strained tomato
1 slice carrot, cut in cubes
1 teaspoon salt
1 slice turnip, cut in cubes
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup flour
Few grains cayenne

Cook butter five minutes with vegetables. Add flour, with salt,
pepper, and cayenne, and cook until flour is well browned. Add
gradually water and tomato; cook five minutes, then strain.

Baked Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up two chickens. Place in a dripping-pan,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with
one-fourth cup butter. Bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting
every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one-fourth
cup boiling water. Serve with gravy made by using fat in pan,
one-fourth cup flour, one cup each Chicken Stock and cream, salt
and pepper.

Planked Chicken

1/4 cup butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
Red pepper
1/4 tablespoon each, finely chopped
Green pepper
&frac12; clove garlic, finely chopped
Parsley
Duchess potatoes
1 teaspoon lemon juice
8 mushroom caps

Cream the butter, add pepper, parsley, onion, garlic, and lemon
juice. Split a young chicken as for broiling, place in dripping-pan,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and bake in a
hot oven until nearly cooked. Butter plank, arrange a border of
Duchess Potatoes close to edge of plank, and remove chicken to
plank. Clean, peel, and saute mushroom caps, place on chicken,
spread over prepared butter, and put in a very hot oven to brown
potatoes and finish cooking chicken. Serve on the plank.

Chicken Gumbo

Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and saute in pork fat. Fry one-half finely
chopped onion in fat remaining in frying-pan. Add four cups sliced
okra, sprig of parsley, and one-fourth red pepper finely chopped,
and cook slowly fifteen minutes. Add to chicken, with one and
one-half cups tomato, three cups boiling water, and one and
one-half teaspoons salt. Cook slowly until chicken is tender, then
add one cup boiled rice.

Chicken Stew

Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a stewpan, cover with
boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding one-half
tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper when fowl is about
half cooked. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour diluted with
enough cold water to pour easily. Serve with Dumplings. If desired
richer, butter may be added.

Chicken Pie

Dress, clean, and cut up two fowls or chickens. Put in a stewpan
with one-half onion, sprig of parsley, and bit of bay leaf; cover
with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender. When chicken is
half cooked, add one-half tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon
pepper. Remove chicken, strain stock, skim off fat, and then cook
until reduced to four cups. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour
diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Place a small cup in
centre of baking-dish, arrange around it pieces of chicken,
removing some of the larger bones; pour over gravy, and cool.
Cover with pie-crust in which several incisions have been made
that there may be an outlet for escape of steam and gases. Wet
edge of crust and put around a rim, having rim come close to edge.
Bake in a moderate oven until crust is well risen and browned.
Roll remnants of pastry and cut in diamond-shaped pieces, bake,
and serve with pie when reheated. If puff paste is used, it is best to
bake top separately.

Chicken Curry

3 lb. chicken
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/3 cup butter
2 teaspoons salt
2 onions
1 teaspoon vinegar

Clean, dress, and cut chicken in pieces for serving. Put butter in a
hot frying-pan, add chicken, and cook ten minutes; then add liver
and gizzard and cook ten minutes longer. Cut onions in thin slices,
and add to chicken with curry powder and salt. Add enough
boiling water to cover, and simmer until chicken is tender.
Remove chicken; strain, and thicken liquor with flour diluted with
enough cold water to pour easily. Pour gravy over chicken, and
serve with a border of rice or Turkish Pilaf.

Chicken en Casserole

Cut two small, young chickens in pieces for serving. Season with
salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, and bake in a
casserole dish twelve minutes. Parboil one-third cup carrots cut in
strips five minutes, drain, and fry with one tablespoon finely
chopped onion and four thin slices bacon cut in narrow strips. Add
one and one-third cups Brown Sauce and two-thirds cup potato
balls. Add to chicken, with three tablespoons Sherry wine, salt and
pepper to taste. Cook in a moderate oven twenty minutes, or until
chicken is tender. If small casserole dishes are used allow but one
chicken to each dish.

Breslin Potted Chicken

Dress, clean, and truss two broilers. Put in a casserole dish, brush
over with two and one-half tablespoons melted butter, put on
cover, and bake twenty minutes; then add one cup stock and cook
until chicken is tender. Thicken stock with one tablespoon, each,
butter and flour cooked together, and add one-half cup cooked
potato balls, one-third cup canned string beans, cut in small pieces,
one-third cup cooked carrot, cut in fancy shapes, and six sauted
mushroom caps.

Jellied Chicken

Dress, clean, and cut up a four-pound fowl. Put in a stewpan with
two slices onion, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until
meat falls from bones. When half cooked, add one-half tablespoon
salt. Remove chicken; reduce stock to three-fourths cup, strain,
and skim off fat. Decorate bottom of a mould with parsley and
slices of hardboiled eggs. Pack in meat freed from skin and bone
and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Pour on stock and place mould
under heavy weight. Keep in a cold place until firm. In summer it
is necessary to add one teaspoon dissolved granulated gelatine to
stock.

Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce

Clean and separate livers, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge
with flour, and saute in butter. Brown two tablespoons butter, add
two and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add
gradually one cup Brown Stock; then add two tablespoons Madeira
wine, and reheat livers in sauce.

Chickens' Livers with Bacon

Clean livers and cut each liver in six pieces. Wrap a thin slice of
bacon around each piece and fasten with a small skewer. Put in a
broiler, place over a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until
bacon is crisp, turning once during cooking.
Sauted Chickens' Livers
Cut one slice bacon in small pieces and cook five minutes with
two tablespoons butter. Remove bacon, add one finely chopped
shallot, and fry two minutes; then add six chickens' livers cleaned
and separated, and cook two minutes. Add two tablespoons flour,
one cup Brown Stock, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one-fourth
cup sliced mushrooms. Cook two minutes, turn into a serving dish,
and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Chickens' Livers with Curry

Clean and separate livers. Dip in seasoned crumbs, egg, and
crumbs, and saute in butter. Remove livers, and to fat in pan add
two tablespoons butter, one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion,
and cook five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour mixed with
one-half teaspoon curry powder and one cup stock. Strain sauce
over livers, and serve around livers Rice Timbales.

Boiled Turkey

Prepare and cook same as Boiled Fowl. Serve with Oyster or
Celery Sauce.

Roast Turkey

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a ten-pound turkey . Place on its side
on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread
breast, legs, and wings with one-third cup butter, rubbed until
creamy and mixed with one-fourth cup flour. Dredge bottom of
pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour on turkey
begins to brown, reduce heat, and baste every fifteen minutes until
turkey is cooked, which will require about three hours. For basting
use one-half cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water and
after this is used baste with fat in pan. Pour water in pan during the
cooking as needed to prevent flour from burning. During cooking
turn turkey frequently, that it may brown evenly. If turkey is
browning too fast, cover with buttered paper to prevent burning.
Remove string and skewers before serving. Garnish with parsley,
or celery tips, or curled celery and rings and discs of carrots strung
on fine wire.

For stuffing, use double the quantities given in recipes under Roast
Chicken. If stuffing is to be served cold, add one beaten egg.
Turkey is often roasted with Chestnut Stuffing, Oyster Stuffing, or
Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style).

Chestnut Stuffing

3 cups French chestnuts
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup butter
1/4 cup cream
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup cracker crumbs

Shell and blanch chestnuts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft.
Drain and mash, using a potato ricer. Add one-half the butter, salt,
pepper, and cream. Melt remaining butter, mix with cracker
crumbs, then combine mixtures.

Oyster Stuffing

3 cups stale bread crumbs
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup melted butter
Few drops onion juice
1 pint oysters

Mix ingredients in the order given, add oysters, cleaned and
drained from their liquor.

Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style)

2 cups stale bread crumbs
1/2 cup English walnut meats, broken in pieces
2/3 cup melted butter
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
Salt and pepper
Sage

Mix ingredients in the order given.

Gravy

Pour off liquid in pan in which turkey has been roasted. From
liquid skim off six tablespoons fat; return fat to pan and brown
with six tablespoons flour; pour on gradually three cups stock in
which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked, or use
liquor left in pan. Cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper;
strain. For Giblet Gravy add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and
gizzard) finely chopped.

Chestnut Gravy

To two cups thin Turkey Gravy add three-fourths cup cooked and
mashed chestnuts.

To Carve Turkey

Bird should be placed on back, with legs at right of platter for
carving. Introduce carving fork across breastbone, hold firmly in
left hand, and with carving knife in right hand cut through skin
between leg and body, close to body. With knife pull back leg and
disjoint from body. Then cut off wing. Remove leg and wing from
other side. Separate second joints from drum-sticks and divide
wings at joints. Carve breast meat in thin crosswise slices. Under
back on either side of backbone may be found two small,
oyster-shaped pieces of dark meat, which are dainty tidbits.
Chicken and fowl are carved in the same way. For a small family
carve but one side of a turkey, that remainder may be left in better
condition for second serving.

Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing

Singe, remove pinfeathers, wash and scrub a goose in hot
soapsuds; then draw (which is removing inside contents). Wash in
cold water and wipe. Stuff, truss, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and lay six thin strips fat salt pork over breast. Place on rack in
dripping-pan, put in hot oven, and bake two hours. Baste every
fifteen minutes with fat in pan. Remove pork last half-hour of
cooking. Place on platter, cut string, and remove string and
skewers. Garnish with watercress and bright red cranberries. Serve
with Apple Sauce.

Potato Stuffing

2 cups hot mashed potato
1/3 cup butter
11/4 cups soft stale bread crumbs
1 egg
1/4 cup finely chopped fat salt pork
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 finely chopped onion
1 teaspoon sage

Add to potato, bread crumbs, butter, egg, salt, and sage; then add
pork and onion.

Goose Stuffing (Chestnut)

1/2 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
1 cup chestnut puree
1/3 cup stale bread crumbs
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/4 lb. sausage meat
12 canned mushrooms, finely chopped
24 French chestnuts cooked and left whole
Salt and pepper

Cook shallot with butter five minutes, add sausage meat, and cook
two minutes, then add mushrooms, chestnut puree, parsley, and
salt and pepper. Heat to boiling-point, add bread crumbs and
whole chestnuts. Cool mixture before stuffing goose.

To Truss a Goose

A goose, having short legs, is trussed differently from chicken,
fowl, and turkey. After inserting skewers, wind string twice around
one leg bone, then around other leg bone, having one inch space of
string between legs. Draw legs with both ends of string close to
back, cross string under back, then fasten around skewers and tie
in a knot.

Roast Wild Duck

Dress and clean a wild duck and truss as goose. Place on rack in
dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover breast with
two very thin slices fat salt pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a
very hot oven, basting every five minutes with fat in pan; cut string
and remove string and skewers. Serve with Orange or Olive Sauce.
Currant jelly should accompany a duck course. Domestic ducks
should always be well cooked, requiring little more than twice the
time allowed for wild ducks.
Ducks are sometimes stuffed with apples, pared, cored, and cut in
quarters, or three small onions may be put in body of duck to
improve flavor. Neither apples nor onions are to be served. If a
stuffing to be eaten is desired, cover pieces of dry bread with
boiling water; as soon as bread has absorbed water, press out the
water; season bread with salt, pepper, melted butter, finely
chopped onion, or use.

Duck Stuffing (Peanut)

3/4 cup cracker crumbs
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup shelled peanuts, finely chopped
Few drops onion juice
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Cayenne

Mix ingredients in the order given.

Braised Duck

Tough ducks are sometimes steamed one hour, and then braised in
same manner as chicken.

Broiled Quail

Follow recipe for Broiling Chicken, allowing eight minutes for
cooking. Serve on pieces of toast, and garnish with parsley and
thin slices of lemon. Currant jelly or Rice Croquettes with Jelly
should accompany this course.

Roast Quail

Dress, clean, lard, and truss a quail. Bake same as Larded Grouse,
allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for cooking.

Larded Grouse

Clean, remove pinions, and if it be tough the skin covering breast.
Lard breast and insert two lardoons in each leg. Truss, and place
on trivet in small shallow pan; rub with salt, brush over with
melted butter, dredge with flour, and surround with trimmings of
fat salt pork. Bake twenty to twenty-five minutes in a hot oven,
basting three times. Arrange on platter, remove string and skewers,
pour around Bread Sauce, and sprinkle bird and sauce with coarse
brown bread crumbs. Garnish with parsley.

Breast of Grouse Saute Chasseur

Remove breasts from pair of grouse, and saute in butter. When
partially cooked, season with salt and pepper. Break carcasses in
pieces, cover with cold water, add carrot, celery, onion, parsley,
and bay leaf, and cook until stock is reduced to three-fourths cup.
Arrange grouse on a serving dish, and pour around a sauce made of
three tablespoons butter, four and one-half tablespoons flour, stock
made from grouse, and three-fourths cup stewed and strained
tomatoes. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and add one
teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and one-half cup canned
mushrooms cut in slices.

Broiled or Roasted Plover

Plover is broiled or roasted same as quail.

Potted Pigeons

Clean, stuff, and truss six pigeons, place upright in a stewpan, and
add one quart boiling water in which celery has been cooked.
Cover, and cook slowly three hours or until tender; or cook in over
in a covered earthen dish. Remove from water, cool slightly,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire
surface in pork fat. Make a sauce with one-fourth cup, each, butter
and flour cooked together and stock remaining in pan; there should
be two cups. Place each bird on a slice of dry toast, and pour gravy
over all. Garnish with parsley.

Stuffing

1 cup hot riced potatoes
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup soft stale bread crumbs soaked in some of the celery water
and wrung in cheese-cloth
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon marjoram or summer savory
Few drops onion juice
Yolk 1 egg

Mix ingredients in order given.

Broiled Venison Steak

Follow recipe for Broiled Beefsteak. Serve with Matre d'Htel
Butter. Venison should always be cooked rare.

Venison Steaks, Sauted, Cumberland Sauce

Cut venison steaks in circular pieces and use trimmings for the
making of stock. Saute steaks in hot buttered frying-pan and serve
with.

Cumberland Sauce. Soak two tablespoons citron, cut in
julienne-shaped pieces, two tablespoons glaced cherries, and one
tablespoon Sultana raisins, in Port wine for several hours. Drain
and cook fruit five minutes in one-third cup Port wine. Add
one-half tumbler currant jelly, and, as soon as jelly is dissolved,
add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce, and two tablespoons
shredded almonds.

Venison Steak, Chestnut Sauce

Wipe steak, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a greased
broiler, and broil five minutes. Remove to hot platter and pour
over.

Chestnut Sauce. Fry one-half onion and six slices carrot, cut in
small pieces, in two tablespoons butter, five minutes, add three
tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one and
one-half cups Brown Stock, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf,
eight peppercorns, and one teaspoon salt. Let simmer twenty
minutes, strain, then add three tablespoons Madeira wine, one cup
boiled French chestnuts, and one tablespoon butter.

Venison Cutlets

Clean and trim slices of venison cut from loin. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper, brush over with melted butter or olive oil, and roll in
soft stale bread crumbs. Place in a broiler and broil five minutes,
or saute in butter. Serve with Port Wine Sauce.

Roast Leg of Venison

Prepare and cook as Roast Lamb, allowing less time that it may be
cooked rare.

Saddle of Venison

Clean and lard a saddle of venison. Cook same as Saddle of
Mutton. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.

Belgian Hare a la Maryland

Follow directions for Chicken a la Maryland . Bake forty minutes,
basting with bacon fat in place of butter.

Belgian Hare, Sour Cream Sauce

Clean and split a hare. Lard back and hind legs, and season with
salt and pepper. Cook eight slices carrot cut in small pieces and
one-half small onion in two tablespoons bacon fat five minutes.
Add one cup Brown Stock, and pour around hare in pan. Bake
forty-five minutes, basting often. Add one cup heavy cream and
the juice of one lemon. Cook fifteen minutes longer, and baste
every five minutes. Remove to serving dish, strain sauce, thicken,
season with salt and pepper, and pour around hare.

WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME

Creamed Chicken

2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
2 cup White Sauce II
1/8 teaspoon celery salt

Heat chicken dice in sauce, to which celery salt has been added.

Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms

Add to Creamed Chicken one-fourth cup mushrooms cut in slices.

Chicken with Potato Border

Serve Creamed Chicken in Potato Border.

Chicken in Baskets

To three cups hot mashed potatoes add three tablespoons butter,
one teaspoon salt, yolks of three eggs slightly beaten, and enough
milk to moisten. Shape in form of small baskets, using a
pastry-bag and tube. Brush over with white of egg slightly beaten,
and brown in oven. Fill with Creamed Chicken. Form handles for
baskets of parsley.

Chicken and Oysters a la Metropole

1/4 cup butter
2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 pint oysters, cleaned and drained
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 cups cream
1/3 cup finely chopped celery

Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add chicken dice and
oysters; cook until oysters are plump. Serve sprinkled with celery.

Luncheon Chicken

11/2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in small dice
1 cup Chicken Stock
Salt
2 tablespoons butter
Pepper
1 slice carrot, cut in small cubes
2/3 cup buttered cracker crumbs
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons flour
4 eggs

Cook butter five minutes with vegetables, add flour, and gradually
the stock. Strain, add chicken dice, and season with salt and
pepper. Turn on a slightly buttered platter and sprinkle with
cracker crumbs. Make four nests, and in each nest slip an egg;
cover eggs with crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until whites
of eggs are firm.

Blanquette of Chicken

2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in strips
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup White Sauce II
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons milk

Add chicken to sauce; when well heated, add yolks of eggs slightly
beaten, diluted with milk. Cook two minutes, then add parsley.

Scalloped Chicken

Butter a baking-dish. Arrange alternate layers of cold, cooked
sliced chicken and boiled macaroni or rice. Pour over White,
Brown, or Tomato Sauce, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and
bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

Mock Terrapin

11/2 cups cold cooked chicken or veal, cut in dice
Whites 2 "hard-boiled" eggs, chopped
1 cup White Sauce I
3 tablespoons Sherry wine
Yolks 2 "hard-boiled" eggs, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Add to sauce, chicken, yolks and whites of eggs, salt, and cayenne;
cook two minutes, and add wine.

Chicken Souffle

2 cups scalded milk
2 cups cold cooked chicken, finely chopped
1/3 cup butter
1/8 cup flour
Yolks 3 eggs, well beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon finely-chopped parsley
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup stale soft bread crumbs
Whites 3 eggs, beaten stiff

Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add bread crumbs, and cook
two minutes; remove from fire, add chicken, yolks of eggs, and
parsley, then fold in whites of eggs. Turn in a buttered
pudding-dish, and bake thirty-five minutes in a slow oven. Serve
with White Mushroom Sauce. Veal may be used in place of
chicken.

Chicken Hollandaise

11/2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup finely chopped celery
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons corn-starch
Few grains paprika
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup cold cooked chicken, cut in small cubes
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yolk 1 egg

Cook butter and onion five minutes, add corn-starch and stock
gradually. Add lemon juice, celery, salt, paprika, and chicken;
when well heated, add yolk of egg slightly beaten, and cook one
minute. Serve with buttered Graham toast.

Chicken Chartreuse

Prepare and cook same as Casserole of Rice and Meat, using
chicken in place of lamb or veal. Season chicken with salt, pepper,
celery salt, onion juice, and one-half teaspoon finely chopped
parsley.

Scalloped Turkey

Make one cup of sauce, using two tablespoons butter, two
tablespoons flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, few grains of pepper,
and one cup stock (obtained by cooking in water bones and skin of
a roast turkey). Cut remnants of cold roast turkey in small pieces;
there should be one and one-half cups. Sprinkle bottom of buttered
baking-dish with seasoned cracker crumbs, add turkey meat, pour
over sauce, and sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a
hot over until crumbs are brown. Turkey, chicken, or veal may be
used separately or in combination.

Minced Turkey

To one cup cold roast turkey, cut in small dice, add one-third cup
soft stale bread crumbs. Make one cup sauce, using two
tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup stock
(obtained by cooking bones and skin of a roast turkey). Season
with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Heat turkey and bread crumbs in
sauce. Serve on small pieces of toast, and garnish with poached
eggs and toast points.

Salmi of Duck

Cut cold roast duck in pieces for serving. Reheat in Spanish Sauce.

Spanish Sauce. Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one tablespoon
finely chopped onion, a stalk of celery, two slices carrot cut in
pieces, and two tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham. Cook
until butter is brown, then add one-fourth cup flour, and when well
browned add two cups Consomme, bit of bay leaf, sprig of parsley,
blade of mace, two cloves, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth
teaspoon pepper; cook five minutes. Strain, add duck, and when
reheated add Sherry wine, stoned olives, and mushrooms cut in
quarters. Arrange on dish for serving, and garnish with olives and
mushrooms. Grouse may be used in place of duck.

Chapter XVIII. FISH AND MEAT SAUCES.

THE French chef keeps always on hand four sauces, White,
Brown, Bechamel, and Tomato, and with these as a basis is able to
make kinds innumerable. Butter and flour are usually cooked
together for thickening sauces. When not browned, it is called
roux; when browned, brown roux. The French mix butter and flour
together, put in saucepan, place over fire, stir for five minutes; set
aside to cool, again place over fire, and add liquid, stirring
constantly until thick and smooth. Butter and flour for brown
sauces are cooked together mich longer, and watched carefully lest
butter should burn. The American cook makes sauce by stirring
butter in saucepan until melted and bubbling, adds flour and
continues stirring, then adds liquid, gradually stirring or beating
until the boiling-point is reached. For Brown Sauce, butter should
be stirred until well browned; flour should be added and stirred
until butter until both are browned before the addition of liquid.
The secret in making a Brown Sauce is to have butter and flour
well browned before adding liquid.

It is well worth remembering that a sauce of average thickness is
made by allowing two tablespoons each of butter and flour to one
cup liquid, whether it be milk, stock, or tomato. For Brown Sauce
a slightly larger quantity of flour is necessary, as by browning flour
its thickening property is lessened, its starch being changed to
dextrine. When sauces are set away, put a few bits of butter on top
to prevent crust from forming.

Thin White Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup scalded milk
11/2 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Put better in saucepan, stir until melted and bubbling; add flour
mixed with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly blended; then
pour on gradually while stirring constantly the milk, bring to the
boiling-point and let boil two minutes. If a wire whisk is used, all
the milk may be added at once.

Cream Sauce

Make same as Thin White Sauce, using cream instead of milk.

White Sauce I

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

White Sauce II

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

Thick White Sauce (for Cutlets and Croquettes)

21/2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk
1/4 cup corn-starch or
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup flour
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

Veloute Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup White Stock
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce.

Sauce Allemande

To Veloute Sauce add one teaspoon lemon juice and yolk one egg.

Soubise Sauce

2 cups sliced onions
1/2 cup cream or milk
1 cup Veloute Sauce
Salt and pepper

Cover onions with boiling water, cook five minutes, drain, again
cover with boiling water, and cook until soft; drain, and rub
through a sieve. Add to sauce with cream. Season with salt and
pepper. Serve with mutton, pork chops, or "hard boiled" eggs.

Drawn Butter Sauce

1/3 cup butter
11/2 cups hot water
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Melt one-half the butter, add flour with seasonings, and pour on
gradually hot water. Boil five minutes, and add remaining butter in
small pieces. To be served with boiled or baked fish.

Shrimp Sauce

To Drawn Butter Sauce add one egg yolk and one-half can shrimps
cleaned and cut in pieces.

Caper Sauce

To Drawn Butter Sauce add one-half cup capers drained from their
liquor. Serve with boiled mutton.

Egg Sauce I

To Drawn Butter Sauce add two "hard-boiled" eggs cut in
one-fourth inch slices.

Egg Sauce II

To Drawn Butter Sauce add beaten yolks of two eggs and one
teaspoon lemon juice.

Brown Sauce I

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup Brown Stock
1/2 slice onion
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons flour
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook onion in butter until slightly browned; remove onion and stir
butter constantly until well browned; add flour mixed with
seasonings, and brown the butter and flour; then add stock
gradually, bring to the boiling-point, and let boil two minutes.

Brown Sauce II (Espagnole)

1/4 cup butter
Sprig of parsley
1 slice carrot
6 peppercorns
1 slice onion
5 tablespoons flour
Bit of bay leaf
2 cups Brown Stock
Sprig of thyme
Salt and pepper

Cook butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and
peppercorns, until brown, stirring constantly, care being taken that
butter is not allowed to burn; add flour, and when well browned,
add stock gradually. Bring to boiling-point, strain, and season with
salt and pepper.

Brown Mushroom Sauce I

To one cup Brown Sauce add one-fourth can mushrooms, drained,
rinsed, and cut in quarters or slices.

Brown Mushroom Sauce II

1 can mushrooms
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup butter
2 cups Consomme or Brown Stock
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Drain and rinse mushrooms and chop finely one-half of same.
Cook five minutes with butter and lemon juice; drain; brown the
butter, add flour, and when well-browned, add gradually
Consomme. Cook fifteen minutes, skim, add remaining
mushrooms cut in quarters or slices, and cook two minutes. Season
with salt and pepper. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned
ones when possible.

Sauce Piquante

To one cup Brown Sauce add one tablespoon vinegar, one-half
small shallot finely chopped, one tablespoon each chopped capers
and pickle, and a few grains of cayenne.

Olive Sauce

Remove stones from ten olives, leaving meat in one piece. Cover
with boiling water and cook five minutes. Drain olivers, and add to
two cups Brown Sauce I or II.

Orange Sauce

1/4 cup butter
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup flour
Juice 2 oranges
11/3 cups Brown Stock
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
1/2 teaspoon salt
Rind of 1 orange, cut in fancy shapes

Brown the butter, add flour, with salt and cayenne, and stir until
well browned. Add stock gradually, and just before serving, orange
juice, Sherry, and pieces of rind.

Sauce a l'Italienne

Onion
2 tablespoons each, finely chopped
Sprig marjoram
Carrot
2 tablespoons butter
Lean raw ham
21/2 tablespoons flour
12 peppercorns
1 cup Brown Stock
2 cloves
11/4 cups white wine
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Cook first six ingredients with butter five minutes, add flour, and
stir until well browned; then add gradually stock and wine. Strain,
reheat, and after pouring around fish sprinkle with parsley.

Champagne Sauce

Simmer two cups Espagnole Sauce until reduced to one and
one-half cups. Add two tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half
cup champagne, and one tablespoon powdered sugar.

Tomato Sauce I (without Stock)

1/2 can tomatoes or
3 tablespoons butter
13/4 cups fresh stewed tomatoes
3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook onion with tomatoes fifteen minutes, rub through a strainer,
and add to butter and flour (to which seasonings have been added)
cooked together. If tomatoes are very acid, add a few grains of
soda. If tomatoes are to retain their red color it is necessary to
brown butter and flour together before adding the tomatoes.

Tomato Sauce II

1/2 can tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons butter
8 peppercorns
4 tablespoons flour
Bit of bay leaf
1 cup Brown Stock

Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with sugar, peppercorns, bay leaf,
and salt; rub through a strainer, and add stock. Brown the butter,
add flour, and when well browned, gradually add hot liquid.

Tomato Sauce III

1/4 cup butter
Sprig of parsley
1 slice carrot
1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1 slice onion
Bit of bay leaf
1 cup Brown Stock
Sprig of thyme
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup flour

Brown the butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley;
remove seasonings, add flour, stir until well browned, then add
tomatoes and stock. Bring to boiling-point, and strain.

Tomato and Mushroom Sauce

2 slices chopped bacon or small quantity uncooked ham
2 cloves
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1 slice onion
Few gratings nutmeg
6 slices carrot
3 tablespoons flour
Bit of bay leaf
1/2 can tomatoes
2 sprigs thyme
11/2 cups Brown Stock
Sprig of parsley
Salt and pepper
1/2 can mushrooms

Cook bacon, onion, and carrot five minutes; add bay leaf, thyme,
parsley, cloves, peppercorns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five
minutes. Add flour diluted with enough cold water to pour; as it
thickens, dilute with stock. Cover, and cook in oven one hour.
Strain, add salt and pepper to taste, and one-half can mushrooms,
drained from their liquor, rinsed, and cut in quarters; then cook
two minutes. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when
possible.

Tomato Cream Sauce

1/2 can tomatoes
Bit of bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
1 cup White Sauce I
1 stalk celery
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 slice onion
Few grains cayenne
1/4 teaspoon soda

Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with seasonings; rub through a
strainer, add soda, then White Sauce. Serve with Baked Fish or
Lobster Cutlets.
Spanish Sauce

2 tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
2 tablespoons chopped celery
11/3 cups Brown Stock
2 tablespoons chopped carrot
2/3 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped onion
Salt and pepper

Cook ham and vegetables with butter until butter is well browned;
add flour, stock, and tomatoes; cook five minutes, then strain.
Season with salt and pepper.

Bechamel Sauce

11/2 cups White Stock
6 peppercorns
1 slice onion
1/4 cup butter
1 slice carrot
1/4 cup flour
Bit of bay leaf
1 cup scalded milk
Sprig of parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook stock twenty minutes with onion, carrot, bay leaf, parsley,
and peppercorns, then strain; there should be one cupful. Melt the
butter, add flour, and gradually hot stock and milk. Season with
salt and pepper.

Yellow Bechamel Sauce

To two cups Bechamel Sauce add yolks of three eggs slightly
beaten, first diluting eggs with small quantity of hot sauce, then
adding gradually to remaining sauce. This prevents the sauce from
having a curdled appearance.

Olive and Almond Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon beef extract
3 tablespoons flour
8 olives (stoned and cut in quarters)

1 cup White Stock

1/2 cup cream
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 cup shredded almonds
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock. Just
before serving add remaining ingredients. Serve with boiled or
steamed fish.

Oyster Sauce

1 pint oysters
1 cup milk or Chicken Stock
1/4 cup butter
Salt
1/4 cup flour
Pepper
Oyster liquor

Wash oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, add oysters, and cook
until plump. Remove oysters, and make a sauce of butter, flour,
oyster liquor, and milk. Add oysters, and season with salt and
pepper.

Cucumber Sauce I

Grate two cucumbers, drain, and season with salt, pepper, and
vinegar. Serve with Broiled Fish.

Cucumber Sauce II

Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, and add one-fourth
teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and gradually two tablespoons
vinegar; then add one cucumber, pared, chopped, and drained.

Celery Sauce

3 cups celery, cut in thin slices
2 cups Thin White Sauce

Wash and scrape celery before cutting into pieces. Cook in boiling
salted water until soft, drain, rub through a sieve, and add to sauce.
Celery sauce is often made from the stock in which fowl or turkey
has been boiled, or with one-half stock and one-half milk.

Supreme Sauce

1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup hot cream
1/4 cup flour
1 tablespoon mushroom liquor
11/2 cups hot Chicken Stock
3/4 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce, and add seasonings.

Matre d'Htel Butter

1/4 cup butter
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
3/4 tablespoon lemon juice
Put butter in a bowl, and with small wooden spoon work until
creamy. Add salt, pepper, and parsley, then lemon juice very
slowly.

Tartar Sauce

1 tablespoon vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1/3 cup butter

Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worcestershire Sauce in a
small bowl, and heat over hot water. Brown the butter in an omelet
pan, and strain into first mixture.

Lemon Butter

1/4 cup butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Cream the butter, and add slowly lemon juice.

Anchovy Butter

1/4 cup butter
Anchovy sauce

Cream the butter and add Anchovy sauce to taste.

Lobster Butter

1/4 cup butter
Lobster coral

Clean, wipe, and force coral through a fine sieve. Put in a mortar
with butter, and pound until well blended. This butter is used in
Lobster Soup and Sauces to give color and richness,

Hollandaise Sauce I

1/2 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
Few grains cayenne
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/3 cup boiling water

Put butter in a bowl, cover with cold water, and wash, using a
spoon. Divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with
yolks of eggs and lemon juice, place saucepan in a larger one
containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk
until butter is melted; then add second piece of butter, and, as it
thickens, third piece. Add water, cook one minute, and season with
salt and cayenne. If mixture curdles, add two tablespoons heavy
cream.

Hollandaise Sauce II

1/2 cup butter
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 tablespoon vinegar or
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Few grains cayenne

French Chef

Wash butter, divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan
with vinegar or lemon juice and egg yolks; place saucepan in a
larger one containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire
whisk. Add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece.
Remove from fire, and add salt and cayenne. If left over fire a
moment too long it will separate. If a richer sauce is desired, add
one-half teaspoon hot water and one-half tablespoon heavy cream.

Anchovy Sauce

Season Brown, Drawn butter, or Hollandaise Sauce with anchovy
sauce.

Horseradish Hollandaise Sauce
To Hollandaise Sauce II add one-fourth cup grated horse-radish
root.

Lobster Sauce I

To Hollandaise Sauce I add one-third cup lobster meat cut in small
dice.

Lobster Sauce II

11/4 lb. lobster
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup flour
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
3 cups cold water

Remove meat from lobster, and cut tender claw-meat in one-half
inch dice. Chop remaining meat, add to body bones, and cover
with water; cook until stock is reduced to two cups, strain, and add
gradually to butter and flour cooked together, then add salt,
cayenne, lemon juice, and lobster dice.

If the lobster contains coral, prepare Lobster Butter, add flour, and
thicken sauce therewith.

Sauce Bearnaise

To Hollandaise Sauce II add one teaspoon each of finely chopped
parsley and fresh tarragon or one-half tablespoon tarragon vinegar.

Served with mutton chops, steaks, broiled squabs, smelts, or boiled
salmon.

Sauce Trianon

To Hollandaise Sauce II add gradually, while cooking, one and
one-half tablespoons Sherry wine.

Sauce Figaro

To Hollandaise Sauce II add two tablespoons tomato puree
(tomatoes stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick
pulp), one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and a few grains
cayenne.

Horseradish Sauce I

3 tablespoons grated horseradish root
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
1 tablespoon vinegar
4 tablespoons heavy cream

Mix first four ingredients, and add cream beaten stiff.

Horseradish Sauce II

3 tablespoons cracker crumbs
3 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup grated horseradish root
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups milk
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Cook first three ingredients twenty minutes in double boiler. Add
butter, salt, and pepper.

Bread Sauce

2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup fine stale bread crumbs
Few grains cayenne
1 onion
3 tablespoons butter
6 cloves
1/2 cup coarse stale bread crumbs

Cook milk thirty minutes in double boiler, with fine bread crumbs
and onion stuck with cloves. Remove onion, add salt, cayenne, and
two tablespoons butter. Usually served poured around roast
partridge or grouse, and sprinkled with coarse crumbs browned in
remaining butter.
Rice Sauce

3 tablespoons rice
3 cloves
2 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 onion
Salt and pepper

Wash rice, add to milk, and cook in double boiler until soft. Rub
through a fine strainer, return to double boiler, add onion stuck
with cloves, and cook fifteen minutes. Remove onion, add butter,
salt, and pepper.

Cauliflower Sauce

1/4 cup butter
Cooked flowerets from a small cauliflower
1/4 cup flour
1 cup White Stock III
Salt
1 cup scalded milk
Pepper

Make same as Thin White Sauce and add flowerets.

Mint Sauce

1/4 cup finely chopped mint leaves
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
1/2 cup vinegar

Add sugar to vinegar; when dissolved, pour over mint and let stand
thirty minutes on back of range to infuse. If vinegar is very strong,
dilute with water.

Currant Jelly Sauce

To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add
one-fourth tumbler current jelly and one tablespoon Sherry wine;
or, add currant jelly to one cup gravy made to serve with roast
lamb. Currant Jelly Sauce is suitable to serve with lamb.

To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add
one-eighth tumbler current jelly, two tablespoons Port wine, and a
few grains cayenne.

Vinaigrette Sauce

1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon chopped pickles
Few grains pepper
1 tablespoon chopped green pepper
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped chives

Mix ingredients in order given.

Sauce Tartare

1/2 teaspoon mustard
11/2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
Capers
1/2 tablespoon each, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pickles
Few grains cayenne
Olives
Yolks 2 eggs
Parsley
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 shallot, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon powdered tarragon or 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar.

Mix mustard, sugar, salt, and cayenne; add yolks of eggs, and stir
until thoroughly mixed, setting bowl in pan of ice-water. Add oil,
at first drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or wire whisk.
As mixture thickens, dilute with vinegar, when oil may be added
more rapidly. Keep in cool place until ready to serve, then add
remaining ingredients.

Hot Sauce Tartare

1/2 cup White Sauce I
Capers
1/2 tablespoon each, finely chopped
1/3 cup Mayonnaise
Pickles
1/2 shallot, finely chopped
Olives
1/2 teaspoon vinegar
Parsley

To white sance add remaining ingredients. Stir constantly until
mixture is thoroughly heated, but do not let it come to the
boiling-point. Served with boiled, steamed, or fried fish.

Hot Mayonnaise

Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 cup hot water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
1 tablespoon vinegar
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Add oil slowly to egg yolks, then pour on gradually vinegar and
water. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add
seasonings and parsley.

Sauce Tyrolienne

To three-fourths cup Mayonnaise add one-half tablespoon each
finely chopped capers and parsley, one finely chopped gherkin,
and one-half can tomatoes, stewed, strained, and cooked until
reduced to two tablespoons. Serve with any kind of fried fish.

Creole Sauce

2 tablespoons chopped onion
1/4 cup sliced mushrooms
4 tablespoons green pepper, finely chopped
6 olives, stoned
11/3 cups Brown Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
2 tomatoes
Sherry wine

Cook onion and pepper with butter five minutes; add tomatoes,
mushrooms, and olives, and cook two minutes, then add Brown
Sauce. Bring to boiling-point, and add wine to taste. Serve with
broiled beefsteak or fillet of beef. Boiled rice should accompany
the beef, and be served on same platter.

Russian Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon made mustard
1 cup White Stock III
1 teaspoon grated horseradish
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cream
Few grains pepper
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock; then
add salt, pepper, mustard, chives, and horseradish. Cook two
minutes, strain, add cream and lemon juice. Reheat before serving.
Serve with Beef Tenderloins or Hamburg Steaks.

Sauce Finiste

3 tablespoons butter
11/2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
3/4 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Cook butter until well browned, and add remaining ingredients.

Chapter XIX. VEGETABLES.

Table showing Composition of Vegetables

Articles
Proteid
Fat
Carbohydrates
Mineral matter
Water

Artichokes
2.6
.2
16.7
1.
79.5

Asparagus
1.8
.2
3.3
1.
94.

Beans, Lima, green
7.1
.7
22.
1.7
68.5

Beans, green string
2.2
.4
9.4
.7
87.3

Beets
1.6
.1
9.6
1.1
87.6

Brussels sprouts
4.7
1.1
4.3
1.7
88.2

Cabbage
2.1
.4
5.8
1.4
90.3

Carrots
1.1
.4
9.2
1.1
88.2

Cauliflower
1.6
.8
6.
.8
90.8

Celery
1.4
.1
3.
1.1
94.4

Corn, green, sweet
2.8
1.1
14.1
.7
81.3

Cucumbers
.8
.2
2.5
.5
96.

Egg-plant
1.2
.3
5.1
.5
92.9

Kohl-rabi
2.
.1
5.5
1.3
91.1

Lettuce
1.3
.4
3.3
1.
94.

Okra
2.
.4
9.5
.7
87.4

Onions
4.4
.8
.5
1.2
93.5

Parsnips
1.7
.6
16.1
1.7
79.9

Peas, green
4.4
.5
16.1
.9
78.1

Potatoes, sweet
1.8
.7
27.1
1.1
69.3

Potatoes, white
2.1
.1
18.
.9
78.9

Spinach
2.1
.5
3.1
1.9
92.4

Squash
1.6
.6
10.4
.9
86.5

Tomatoes
.8
.4
3.9
.5
94.4

Turnips
1.4
.2
8.7
.8
88.9

W.O. Atwaler, Ph. D.

Vegetables include, commonly though not botanically speaking,
all plants used for food except grains and fruits. With exception of
beans, peas, and lentils, which contain a large amount of proteid,
they are chiefly valuable for their potash salts, and should form a
part of each day's dietary. Many contain much cellulose, which
gives needed bulk to the food. The legumes, peas, beans, and
lentils may be used in place of flesh food.

For the various vegetables different parts of the plant are used.
Some are eaten in the natural state, others are cooked.

Tubers
White potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes

Roots
Beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, sweet potatoes, salsify or oyster
plant, and turnips

Bulbs
Garlic, onions, and shallots

Stems
Asparagus, celery, and chives

Leaves
Brussels sprouts, beet greens, cabbages, dandelions, lettuce, sorrel,
spinach, and watercress

Flowers
Cauliflower

Fruit
Beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, egg-plant, peas, lentils, squash, and
tomatoes.

Young tender vegetables, as lettuce, radishes, cucumbers,
water-cress, and tomatoes, eaten uncooked, served separately or
combined in salads, help to stimulate a flagging appetite, and
when dressed with oil furnish considerable nutriment.

Beans, and peas when old, should be employed in making purees
and soups; by so doing, the outer covering of cellulose, so
irritating to the stomach, is removed.

Care of Vegetables

Summer vegetables should be cooked as soon after gathering as
possible; in case they must be kept, spread on bottom of cool, dry,
well-ventilated cellar, or place in ice-box. Lettuce may be best
kept by sprinkling with cold water and placing in a tin pail closely
covered. Wilted vegetables may be freshened by allowing to stand
in cold water. Vegetables which contain sugar lose some of their
sweetness by standing; corn and peas are more quickly affected
than others. Winter vegetables should be kept in a cold, dry place.
Beets, carrots, turnips, potatoes, etc., should be put in barrels or
piled in bins, to exclude as much air as possible. Squash should be
spread, and needs careful watching; when dark sports appear, cook
at once.
In using canned goods, empty contents from can as soon as
opened, lest the acid therein act on the tin to produce poisonous
compounds, and let stand one hour, that it may become
reoxygenated. Beans, peas, asparagus, etc., should be emptied into
a strainer, drained, and cold water poured over them and allowed
to run through. In using dried vegetables, soak in cold water
several hours before cooking. A few years ago native vegetables
were alone sold; but now our markets are largely supplied from the
Southern States and California, thus allowing us fresh vegetables
throughout the year.

Cooking of Vegetables

A small scrubbing-brush, which may be bought for five cents, and
two small pointed knives for preparing vegetables should be found
in every kitchen.

Vegetables should be washed in cold water, and cooked until soft
in boiling salted water; if cooked in an uncovered vessel, their
color is better kept. For peas and beans add salt to water last half
hour of cooking. Time for cooking the same vegetable varies
according to freshness and age, therefore time-tables for cooking
serve only as guides.

Mushrooms and Truffles

These are classed among vegetables. Mushrooms, which grow
about us abundantly, may be easily gathered, and as they contain
considerable nutriment, should often be found on the table. While
there are hundreds of varieties, one by a little study may acquaint
herself with a dozen or more of the most common ones which are
valuable as food. Consult W. Hamilton Gibson, "Our Edible
Toadstools and Mushrooms." Many might cause illness, but only a
few varieties of the Amanita family are deadly poison. Mushrooms
require heat and moisture, a severe drought or very wet soil being
unfavorable for their growth. Never gather mushrooms in the
vicinity of decaying matter. They appear the middle of May, and
last until frost comes. Campestris is the variety always found in
market; French canned are of this family. Boleti are dried, canned,
and sold as cepes.

Truffles

Truffles belong to the same family as mushrooms, and are grown
underground. France is the most famous field for their production,
from which country they are exported in tin cans, and are too
expensive for ordinary use.

Artichokes

French artichokes, imported throughout the year, are the ones
principally used. They retail from thirty to forty cents each, and are
cheapest and best in November, December, and January.
Artichokes are appearing in market from California and are
somewhat cheaper in price than the French Artichoke. Jerusalem
artichokes are employed for pickling, and can be bought for fifteen
cents per quart.

Boiled Artichokes

Cut off stem close to leaves, remove outside bottom leaves, trim
artichoke, cut off one inch from top of leaves, and with a sharp
knife remove choke; then tie artichoke with a string to keep its
shape. Soak one-half hour in cold water. Drain, and cook thirty to
forty-five minutes in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Remove
from water, place upside down to drain, then take off string. Serve
with Bechamel or Hollandaise Sauce. Boiled Artichokes often
constitute a course at dinner. Leaves are drawn out separately with
fingers, dipped in sauce, and fleshy ends only eaten, although the
bottom is edible. Artichokes may be cut in quarters, cooked,
drained, and served with Sauce Bearnaise. When prepared in this
way they are served with mutton.

Fried Artichokes

Sprinkle Boiled Artichokes cut in quarters with salt, pepper, and
finely chopped parsley. Dip in Batter I, fry in deep fat, and drain.
In preparing artichokes, trim off tops of leaves closer than when
served as Boiled Artichokes.

Artichoke Bottoms

Remove all leaves and the choke. Trim bottoms in shape, and cook
until soft in boiling, salted, acidulated water. Serve with
Hollandaise or Bechamel Sauce.

Stuffed Artichokes

Prepare and cook as Boiled Artichokes, having them slightly
underdone. Fill with Chicken Force-meat I or II, and bake thirty
minutes in a moderate oven, basting twice with Thin White Sauce.
Remove to serving dish and pour around Thin White Sauce.

Asparagus

Hothouse asparagus is found in market during winter, but is not
very satisfactory, and is sold for about one dollar per bunch. Oyster
Bay (white asparagus) appears first of May, and commands a very
high price. Large and small green stalk asparagus is in season from
first of June to middle of July, and cheapest the middle of June.

Boiled Asparagus

Cut off lower parts of stalks as far down as they will snap, untie
bunches, wash, remove scales, and retie. Cook in boiling salted
water fifteen minutes or until soft, leaving tips out of water first
ten minutes. Drain, remove string, and spread with soft butter,
allowing one and one-half tablespoons butter to each bunch
asparagus. Asparagus is often broken or cut in inch pieces for
boiling, cooking tips a shorter time than stalks.

Asparagus on Toast

Serve Boiled Asparagus on Buttered or Milk Toast.

Asparagus in White Sauce

Boil asparagus cut in one-inch pieces, drain, and add to White
Sauce I, allowing one cup sauce to each bunch asparagus. Serve in
Croustades of Bread for a vegetable course.

Asparagus a la Hollandaise

Pour Hollandaise Sauce I over Boiled Asparagus.

Asparagus in Crusts

Remove centres from small rolls, fry shells in deep fat, drain, and
fill with Asparagus in White Sauce.

Beans

String Beans that are obtainable in winter come from California;
natives appear in market the last of June and continue until the last
of September. There are two varieties, green (pole cranberry being
best flavored) and yellow (butter bean).

Shell Beans, including horticultural and sieva, are sold in the pod
or shelled, five quarts in pod making one quart shelled. They are
found in market during July and August. Common lima and
improved lima shell beans are in season in August and September.
Dried lima beans are procurable throughout the year.

String Beans

Remove strings, and snap or cut in one-inch pieces; wash, and
cook in boiling water from one to three hours, adding salt last
half-hour of cooking. Drain, season with butter and salt.

Shell Beans

Wash, and cook in boiling water from one to one and a half hours,
adding salt last half-hour of cooking. Cook in sufficiently small
quantity of water, that there may be none left to drain off when
beans are cooked. Season with butter and salt.

Cream of Lima Beans

Soak one cup dried beans over night, drain, and cook in boiling
salted water until soft; drain, add three-fourths cup cream, and
season with butter and salt. Reheat before serving.

Boiled Beets

Wash, and cook whole in boiling water until soft; time required
being from one to four hours. Old beets will never be tender, no
matter how long they may be cooked. Drain, and put in cold water
that skins may be easily removed. Serve cut in quarters or slices.

Sugared Beets

4 hot boiled beets
11/2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cut beets in one-fourth inch slices, add butter, sugar, and salt;
reheat for serving.

Pickled Beets

Slice cold boiled beets and cover with vinegar.

Beets, Sour Sauce

Wash beets, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and
reserve one-half cup water in which beets were cooked. Plunge
into cold water, rub off skins and cut into cubes. Reheat in

Sour Sauce. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons
flour, and pour on the beet water. Add one-fourth cup, each,
vinegar and cream, one teaspoon sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, and
a few grains pepper.

Harvard Beets

Wash twelve small beets, cook in boiling water until soft, remove
skins, and cut beets in thin slices, small cubes, or fancy shapes,
using French vegetable cutter. Mix one-half cup sugar and one-half
tablespoon corn-starch. Add one-half cup vinegar and let boil five
minutes. Pour over beets, and let stand on back of range one-half
hour. Just before serving add two tablespoons butter.

Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts belong to the same family as cabbage, and the
small heads grow from one to two inches apart. on the axis of the
entire stem, one root yielding about two quarts. They are imported,
and also grow in this country, being cheapest and best in
December and January.

Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water fifteen
minutes. Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until
easily pierced with a skewer. Drain, and to each pint add one cup
White Sauce I.

Scalloped Brussels Sprouts

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in cold water one quart
sprouts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, then drain. Wash
celery and cut in pieces; there should be one and one-half cups.
Melt three tablespoons butter, add celery, cook two minutes, add
three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half
cups scalded milk; add sprouts and turn mixture into a
baking-dish. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven
until crumbs are brown.

Cabbage


There are four kinds of cabbage in the market, drumhead,
sugar-loaf, Savoy, and purple; and some variety may be found
throughout the year. The Savoy is best for boiling; drum-head and
purple for Cole-Slaw. In buying, select heavy cabbages.

Boiled Cabbage

Take off outside leaves, cut in quarters, and remove tough stalk.
Soak in cold water and cook in an uncovered vessel in boiling
salted water, to which is added one-fourth teaspoon soda; this
prevents disagreeable odor during cooking. Cook from thirty
minutes to one hour, drain, and serve; or chop, and season with
butter, salt, and pepper.

Escalloped Cabbage

Cut one-half boiled cabbage in pieces; put in buttered baking-dish,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add one cup White Sauce I. Lift
cabbage with fork, that it may be well mixed with sauce, cover
with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

German Cabbage

Slice red cabbage and soak in cold water. Put one quart in stewpan
with two tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon
finely chopped onion, few gratings of nutmeg, and few grains
cayenne; cover, and cook until cabbage is tender. Add two
tablespoons vinegar and one-half tablespoon sugar, and cook five
minutes.

Cole-Slaw

Select a small, heavy cabbage, take off outside leaves, and cut in
quarters; with a sharp knife slice very thinly. Soak in cold water
until crisp, drain, dry between towels, and mix with Cream Salad
Dressing.

Hot Slaw

Slice cabbage as for Cole-Slaw, using one-half cabbage. Heat in a
dressing made of yolks of two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cup
cold water, one tablespoon butter, one-fourth cup hot vinegar, and
one-half teaspoon salt, stirred over hot water until thickened.

Carrots

Carrots may always be found in market. New carrots appear last of
April, and are sold in bunches; these may be boiled and served, but
carrots are chiefly used for flavoring soups, and for garnishing, on
account of their bright color. To prepare carrots for cooking, wash
and scrape, as best flavor and brightest color are near the skin.

Carrots and Peas

Wash, scrape, and cut young carrots in small cubes or fancy
shapes; cook until soft in boiling salted water or stock. Drain, add
an equal quantity of cooked green peas, and season with butter,
salt, and pepper.

Carrots, Poulette Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut carrots in strips, cubes, or fancy shapes,
cover with boiling water, let stand five minutes; drain, and cook in
boiling salted water, to which is added one-half tablespoon butter,
until soft. Add to recipe for sauce given under Macedoine of
Vegetables a la Poulette .

Cauliflower

Cauliflowers comprise the stalks and flowerets of a plant which
belongs to the same family as Brussels sprouts and cabbage; they
may be obtained throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in
September and October. In selecting cauliflowers, choose those
with white heads and fresh green leaves; if dark spots are on the
heads, they are not fresh.

Creamed Cauliflower

Remove leaves, cut off stalk, and soak thirty minutes (head down)
in cold water to cover. Cook (head up) twenty minutes or until soft
in boiling salted water; drain, separate flowerets, and reheat in one
and one-half cups White Sauce I.

Cauliflower a la Hollandaise

Prepare as for Creamed Cauliflower, using Hollandaise Sauce I
instead of White Sauce.

Cauliflower au Gratin

Place a whole cooked cauliflower on a dish for serving, cover with
buttered crumbs, and place on oven grate to brown crumbs;
remove from oven and pour one cup Thin White Sauce around
cauliflower.

Cauliflower a la Parmesan

Prepare as Cauliflower au Gratin. Sprinkle with grated cheese
before covering with crumbs.

Cauliflower a la Huntington

Prepare cauliflower as for boiled cauliflower, and steam until soft.
Separate in pieces and pour over the following sauce:

Mix one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one and one-fourth
teaspoons salt, one teaspoon powdered sugar, and one-fourth
teaspoon paprika. Add yolks three eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth
cup olive oil, and one-half cup vinegar in which one-half teaspoon
finely chopped shallot has infused five minutes. Cook over hot
water until mixture thickens. Remove from range, and add
one-half tablespoon curry powder, two tablespoons melted butter,
and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.

Celery

Celery may be obtained from last of July until April. It is best and
cheapest in December. Celery stalks are green while growing; but
the white celery seen in market has been bleached, with the
exception of Kalamazoo variety, which grows white. To prepare
celery for table, cut off roots and leaves, separate stalks, wash,
scrape, and chill in ice-water. By adding a slice of lemon to
ice-water celery is kept white and made crisp. If tops of stalks are
gashed several times before putting in water, they will curl back
and make celery look more attractive.

Celery in White Sauce

Wash, scrape, and cut celery stalks in one-inch pieces; cook twenty
minutes or until soft in boiling salted water; drain, and to two cups
celery add one cup White Sauce I. This is a most satisfactory way
of using the outer stalks of celery.

Fried Celery, Tomato Sauce

Wash and scrape celery, cut in three-inch pieces, dip in batter, fry
in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce.

Batter. Mix one-half cup bread flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, a
few grains pepper, one-third cup milk, and one egg well beaten.

Chiccory or Endive

Chiccory or endive may be obtained throughout the year, but
during January, February, March and April supply is imported. It is
used only for salads.

Corn

Corn may be found in market from first of June to first of October.
Until native corn appears it is the most unsatisfactory vegetable.
Native corn is obtainable the last of July, but is most abundant and
cheapest in August. Among the best varieties are Crosby for early
corn and Evergreen for late corn.

Boiled Green Corn

Remove husks and silky threads. Cook ten to twenty minutes in
boiling water. Place on platter covered with napkin; draw corners
of napkin over corn; or cut from cob and season with butter and
salt.

Succotash

Cut hot boiled corn from cob, add equal quantity of hot boiled
shelled beans; season with butter and salt; reheat before serving.

Corn Oysters

Grate raw corn from cobs. To one cup pulp add one well-beaten
egg, one-fourth cup flour, and season highly with salt and pepper.
Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep fat, or cook on a hot,
well-greased griddle. They should be made about the size of large
oysters.

Corn Fritters

1 can corn
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs

Chop corn, drain, and add dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then
add yolks of eggs, beaten until thick, and fold in whites of eggs
beaten stiff. Cook in a frying-pan in fresh hot lard. Drain on paper.

Corn a la Southern

To one can chopped corn add two eggs slightly beaten, one
teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, one and one-half
tablespoons melted butter, and one pint scalded milk; turn into a
buttered pudding-dish and bake in slow oven until firm.

Chestnuts

French and Italian chestnuts are served in place of vegetables.

Chestnut Puree

Remove shells from chestnuts, cook until soft in boiling salted
water; drain, mash, moisten with scalded milk, season with salt
and pepper, and beat until light. Chestnuts are often boiled, riced,
and piled lightly in centre of dish, then surrounded by meat.

Baked Chestnuts

Remove shells from one pint chestnuts, put in a baking-dish, cover
with Chicken Stock highly seasoned with salt and cayenne, and
bake until soft, keeping covered until nearly done. There should be
a small quantity of stock in pan to serve with chestnuts.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers may be obtained throughout the year, and are generally
served raw. During the latter part of the summer they are gathered
and pickled for subsequent use. Small pickled cucumbers are
called gherkins.

Sliced Cucumbers

Remove thick slices from both ends and cut off a thick paring, as
the cucumber contains a bitter principle, a large quantity of which
lies near the skin and stem end. Cut in thin slices and keep in cold
water until ready to serve. Drain, and cover with crushed ice for
serving.

Boiled Cucumbers

Old cucumbers may be pared, cut in pieces, cooked until soft in
boiling salted water, drained, mashed, and seasoned, with butter,
salt, and pepper.

Fried Cucumbers

Pare cucumbers and cut lengthwise in one-third inch slices. Dry
between towels, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg,
and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Stuffed Cucumbers

Pare three cucumbers, cut in halves crosswise, remove seeds, and
let stand in cold water thirty minutes. Drain, wipe, and fill with
force meat, using recipe for Chicken Force meat I or II,
substituting veal for chicken. Place upright on a trivet in a
saucepan. Half surround with White Stock, cover, and cook forty
minutes. place on thin slices of dry toast, cut in circular shapes,
and pour around one and one-half cups Bechamel Sauce. Serve as
a vegetable course or an entree.

Fried Eggplant I

Pare an egg plant and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle slices with
salt and pile on a plate. Cover with a weight to express the juice,
and let stand one and one-half hours. Dredge with flour and sautee
slowly in butter until crisp and brown. Eggplant is in season from
September to February.

Fried Eggplant II

Pare an egg plant, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and soak over night
in cold salted water. Drain, let stand in cold water one-half hour,
drain again, and dry between towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dip in batter, or dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

Stuffed Eggplant

Cook eggplant fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Cut
a slice from top, and with a spoon remove pulp, taking care not to
work too closely to skin. Chop pulp, and add one cup soft stale
bread crumbs. Melt two tablespoons butter, add one-half
tablespoon finely chopped onion, and cook five minutes, or try out
three slices of bacon, using bacon fat in place of butter. Add to
chopped pulp and bread, season with salt and pepper. Add to
chopped pulp and bread, season with salt and pepper, and if
necessary moisten with a little stock or water; cook five minutes,
cool slightly, and add one beaten egg. Refill eggplant, cover with
buttered bread crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.

Scalloped Eggplant

Pare an eggplant and cut in two-thirds inch cubes, Cook in a small
quantity of boiling water until soft, then drain. Cook two
tablespoons butter with one-half onion, finely chopped, until
yellow, add three-fourths tablespoon finely chopped parsley and
eggplant. Turn into a buttered baking-dish. Cover with buttered
crumbs and bake until crumbs are brown.

Greens

Hothouse beet greens and dandelions appear in market the first of
March, when they command a high price. Those grown out of
doors are in season from middle of May to first of July.

Boiled Beet Greens

Wash thoroughly and scrape roots, cutting off ends. Drain, and
cook one hour or until tender in a small quantity boiling salted
water. Season with butter, salt, and pepper, Serve with vinegar.

Dandelions

Wash thoroughly, remove roots, drain, and cook one hour or until
tender in boiling salted water. Allow two quarts water to on peck
dandelions. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with
vinegar.

Lettuce

Lettuce is obtainable all the year, and is especially valuable during
the winter and spring, when other green vegetables in market
command a high price. Although containing but little nutriment, it
is useful for the large quantity of water and potash salts that it
contains, and assists in stimulating the appetite. Curly lettuce is of
less value than Tennis Ball, but makes an effective garnish.

Lettuce should be separated by removing leaves from stalk
(discarding wilted outer leaves), washed, kept in cold water until
crisp, drained, and so placed on a towel that water may drop from
leaves. A bag made from white mosquito netting is useful for
drying lettuce. Wash lettuce leaves, place in bag, and hand in
lower part of ice-box to drain. Wire baskets are used for the same
purpose. Arrange lettuce for serving in nearly its original shape.

Leeks on Toast

Wash and trim leeks, cook in boiling salted water until soft, and
drain. Arrange on pieces of buttered toast and pour over melted
butter, seasoned with salt and pepper.

Onions

The onion belongs to the same family (Lily) as do shallot, garlic,
leek, and chive. Onions are cooked and served as a vegetable.
They are wholesome, and contain considerable nutriment, but are
objectionable on account of the strong odor they impart to the
breath, due to volatile substances absorbed by the blood, and by
the blood carried to the lungs, where they are set free. The
common garden onion is obtainable throughout the year, the new
ones appearing in market about the first of June. In large centres
Bermuda and Spanish onions are procurable from March 1st to
June 1st, and are of delicate flavor.

Shallot, leek, garlic, and chive are principally used to give
additional flavor to food. Shallot, garlic, and chive are used, to
some extent, in making salads.

Boiled Onions

Put onions in cold water and remove skins while under water.
Drain, put in a saucepan, and cover with boiling salted water; boil
five minutes, drain, and again cover with boiling salted water.
Cook one hour or until soft, but no broken. Drain, add a small
quantity of milk, cook five minutes, and season with butter, salt,
and pepper.

Onions in Cream

Prepare and cook as Boiled Onions, changing the water twice
during boiling; drain, and cover with Cream or Thin White Sauce.

Scalloped Onions

Cut Boiled Onions in quarters. Put in a buttered baking-dish cover
with White Sauce I, sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs, and
place on centre grate in oven to brown crumbs.

Glazed Onions

Peel small silver skinned onions, and cook in boiling water fifteen
minutes. Drain, dry on cheese-cloth, put in a buttered baking-dish,
add highly seasoned brown stock to cover bottom of dish, sprinkle
with sugar, and bake until soft, basting with stock in pan.

Fried Onions

Remove skins from four medium-sized onions. Cut in thin slices
and put in a hot omelet pan with one and one-half tablespoons
butter. Cook until brown, occasionally shaking pan that onions
may not burn, or turn onions, using a fork. Sprinkle with salt one
minute before taking from fire.

French Fried Onions

Peel onions, cut in one-fourth inch slices, and separate into rings.
Dip in milk, drain, and dip in flour. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown
paper, and sprinkle with salt.

Stuffed Onions

Remove skins from onions, and parboil ten minutes in boiling
salted water to cover. Turn upside down to cool, and remove part
of centres. Fill cavities with equal parts of finely chopped cooked
chicken, stale soft bread crumbs, and finely chopped onion which
was removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, and moistened with
cream or melted butter. Place in buttered shallow baking-pan,
sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until
onions are soft.

Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify)

Wash, scrape, and put at once into cold acidulated water to prevent
discoloration. Cut in inch slices, cook in boiling salted water until
soft, drain, and add to White Sauce I. Oyster plant is in season
from October to March.

Salsify Fritters

Cook oyster plant as for Creamed Oyster Plant. Mash, season with
butter, salt, and pepper. Shape in small flat cakes, roll in flour, and
saute in butter.

Parsnips

Parsnips are not so commonly served as other vegetables;
however, they often accompany a boiled dinner. They are raised
mostly for feeding cattle. Unless young they contain a large
amount of woody fibre, which extends through centre of roots and
makes them undesirable as food.

Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce

Wash and scrape parsnips, and cut in pieces two inches long and
one-half inch wide and thick. Cook five minutes in boiling salted
water, or until soft. Drain, and to two cups add one cup Drawn
Butter Sauce.

Parsnip Fritters

Wash parsnips and cook forty-five minutes in boiling salted water.
Drain, plunge into cold water, when skins will be found to slip off
easily. Mash, season with butter, salt, and pepper, shape in small
flat round cakes, roll in flour, and saute in butter.

Peas

Peas contain, next to beans, the largest percentage of proteid of
any of the vegetables, and when young are easy of digestion. They
appear in market as early as April, coming from Florida and
California, and although high in price are hardly worth buying,
having been picked so long. Native peas may be obtained the
middle of June, and last until the first of September. The early
June are small peas, contained in a small pod. McLean, the best
peas, are small peas in large flat pods. Champion peas are large,
and the pods are well filled, but they lack sweetness. Marrowfat
peas are the largest in the market, and are usually sweet.

Boiled Peas

Remove peas from pods, cover with cold water, and let stand
one-half hour. Skim off undeveloped peas which rise to top of
water, and drain remaining peas. Cook until soft in a small
quantity of boiling water, adding salt the last fifteen minutes of
cooking. (Consult Time Table for Cooking, p.28). There should be
but little, if any, water to drain from peas when they are cooked.
Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If peas have lost much of
their natural sweetness, they are improved by the addition of a
small amount of sugar.

Creamed Peas

Drain Boiled Peas, and to two cups pea add three-fourths cup
White Sauce II. Canned peas are often drained, rinsed, and
reheated in this way.

Pea Timbales

Drain and rinse on can peas, and rub through a sieve. To one cup
pea pulp add two beaten eggs, two tablespoons melted butter,
two-thirds teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, few grains
cayenne, and few drops onion juice. Turn into buttered moulds, set
in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm.
Serve with one cup white sauce to which is added one-third cup
canned peas drained and rinsed.

Stuffed Peppers I

6 green peppers
1/3 cup Brown Sauce
6 green peppers
1/3 cup Brown Sauce
1 onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
2 tablespoons butter
Salt ad pepper
4 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
Buttered bread crumbs
4 tablespoons lean raw ham, finely chopped

Cut a slice from stem end of each pepper, remove seeds, and
parboil peppers, fifteen minutes.

Cook onion in butter three minutes; add mushrooms and ham, and
cook one minute, then add Brown Sauce and bread crumbs. Cool
mixture, sprinkle peppers with salt, fill with cooked mixture, cover
with buttered bread crumbs and bake ten minutes. Serve on toast
with Brown Sauce.

Stuffed Peppers II

Prepare peppers as for Stuffed Peppers I. Fill with equal parts of
finely chopped cold cooked chicken or veal, and softened bread
crumbs, seasoned with onion juice, salt, and pepper.
Pumpkins

Pumpkins are boiled or steamed same as squash, but require longer
cooking. They are principally used for making pies.

Radishes

Radishes may be obtained throughout the year. There are round
and long varieties, the small round ones being considered best.
They are bought in bunches, six or seven constituting a bunch.
Radishes are used merely for a relish, and are served uncooked. To
prepare radishes for table, remove leaves, stems, and tip end of
root, scrape roots, and serve on crushed ice. Round radishes look
very attractive cut to imitate tulips, when they should not be
scraped; to accomplish this, begin at root end and make six
incisions through skin running three-fourths length of radish. Pass
knife under sections of skin, and cut down as far as incisions
extend. Place in cold water, and sections of skin will fold back,
giving radish a tulip-like appearance.

Spinach

Spinach is cheapest and best in early summer, but is obtainable
throughout the year. It gives variety to winter diet, when most
green vegetables are expensive and of inferior quality.

Boiled Spinach

Remove roots, carefully pick over (discarding wilted leaves), and
wash in several waters to be sure that it is free from all sand. When
young and tender put in a stewpan, allow to heat gradually, and
boil twenty-five minutes, or until tender, in its own juices. Old
spinach is better cooked in boiling salted water, allowing two
quarts water to one peck spinach. Drain thoroughly, chop finely,
reheat, and season with butter, salt and pepper. Mound on a
serving dish and garnish with slices of "hard-boiled" eggs and toast
points. The green color of spinach is better retained by cooking in
an uncovered vessel, in a large quantity of water to which has been
added one-third teaspoon soda.

Spinach a Ia Bechamel

Prepare one-half peck Boiled Spinach. Put three table spoons
butter in hot omelet pan; when melted, add chopped spinach, cook
three minutes. Sprinkle with two tablespoons flour, stir thoroughly,
and add gradually three-fourths cup milk; cook five minutes.

Puree of Spinach

Wash and pick over one-half peck spinach. Cook in an uncovered
vessel with a large quantity of boiling salted water to which is
added one-third teaspoon soda and one-half teaspoon sugar. Drain,
chop finely, and rub through a sieve. Reheat, add three tablespoons
butter, one tablespoon flour, and one-half cup cream. Arrange one
serving dish and garnish with yolk and white of "hard-boiled" egg
and fried bread cut in fancy shapes.

Spinach (French Style)

Pick over and wash one peck spinach, and cook in boiling salted
water twenty-five minutes. Drain, and finely chop. Reheat in hot
pan with four tablespoons butter to which have been added three
tablespoons flour and two-thirds cup Chicken Stock. Season with
one teaspoon powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a few gratings each
of nutmeg and lemon rind.

Squash

Summer squash, which are in market during the summer months,
should be young, tender, and thin skinned. The common varieties
are the white round and yellow crook-neck. Some of the winter
varieties appear in market as early as the middle of August; among
the most common are Marrow, Turban, and Hubbard. Turban and
Hubbard are usually drier than Marrow. Marrow and Turban have
a thin shell, which may be pared off before cooking. Hubbard
Squash has a very hard shell, which must be split in order to
separate squash in pieces, and squash then cooked in the shell. In
selecting winter squash, see that it is heavy in proportion to its
size.

Boiled Summer Squash

Wash squash and cut in thick slices or quarters. Cook twenty
minutes in boiling salted water, or until soft. Turn in a cheese cloth
place over a colander, drain, and wring in cheese-cloth. Mash, and
season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Fried Summer Squash I

Wash, and cut in one-half inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in hot fat, and
drain.

Fried Summer Squash II

Follow recipe for Fried Eggplant I.

Steamed Winter Squash

Cut in pieces, remove seeds and stringy portion, and pare. Place in
a strainer and cook thirty minutes, or until soft, over boiling water.
Mash, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. If lacking in
sweetness, add a small quantity of sugar.

Boiled Winter Squash

Prepare as for Steamed Winter Squash. Cook in boiling salted
water, drain, mash, and season. Unless squash is very dry, it is
much better steamed than boiled.

Baked Winter Squash I

Cut in pieces two inches square, remove seeds and stringy portion,
place in a dripping pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and allow
for each square one-half teaspoon molasses and one-half teaspoon
melted butter. Bake fifty minutes, or until soft, in a moderate oven,
keeping covered the first half-hour of cooking. Serve in the shell.

Backed Winter Squash II

Cut squash in halves, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a
dripping-pan, cover, and bake two hours, or until soft, in a slow
oven. Remove from shell, mash, and season with butter, salt and
pepper.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are obtainable throughout the year, but are cheapest and
best in September. Hothouse tomatoes are in market during the
winter, and command a very high price, sometimes retailing for
one and one-half dollars a pound.

Southern tomatoes appear as early as May 1st, and although of
good color, lack flavor. Of the many varieties of tomatoes, Acme
is among the best.

Sliced Tomatoes

Wipe, and cover with boiling water; let stand one minute, when
they may be easily skinned. Chill thoroughly, and cut in one-third
inch slices.

Stewed Tomatoes

Wipe, pare, cut in pieces, put in stewpan, and cook slowly twenty
minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with butter, salt, and pepper.

Scalloped Tomatoes

Remove contents from one can tomatoes and drain tomatoes from
some of their liquor. Season with salt, pepper, a few drops of
onion juice, and sugar if preferred sweet. Cover the bottom of a
buttered baking-dish with buttered bread crumbs, cover with
tomatoes, and sprinkle top thickly with buttered crumbs. Bake in a
hot oven until crumbs are brown.

Broiled Tomatoes

Wipe and cut in halves crosswise, cut off a thin slice from
rounding part of each half. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, place in a well-buttered broiler,
and broil six to eight minutes.

Tomatoes  la Crme

Wipe, peel, and slice three tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter. Place on a hot
platter and pour over them one cup White Sauce I.

Devilled Tomatoes

3 tomatoes
1 teaspoon mustard
Salt and pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
Flour
Few grains cayenne
Butter for sauteing
Yolk 1 "hard-boiled" egg
4 tablespoons butter
1 egg
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar

Wipe, peel, and cut tomatoes in slices. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter. Place on a hot
platter and pour over the dressing made by creaming the butter,
adding dry ingredients, yolk of egg rubbed to a paste, egg beaten
slightly, and vinegar, then cooking over hot water, stirring
constantly until it thickens.

Baked Tomatoes I

Wipe, and remove a thin slice from stem end of six smooth,
medium-sized tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp, and drain off
most of the liquid. Add and equal quantity of bread crumbs, season
with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice, and refill tomatoes
with mixture. Place in a buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered
crumbs, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Two tablespoons,
each, chopped green pepper and onion are an improvement.

Baked Tomatoes II

Wipe six small, selected tomatoes and make two one-inch gashes
on blossom end of each, having gashes cross each other at right
angles. Place in granite-ware pan and bake until thoroughly heated.
Serve with sauce for Devilled Tomatoes, adding, just before
serving, one tablespoon heavy cream.

Stuffed Tomatoes

Wipe, and remove thin slices from stem end of six medium-sized
tomatoes. Take out seeds and pulp, sprinkle inside of tomatoes
with salt, invert, and let stand one-half hour. Cook five minutes
two tablespoons butter with one-half tablespoon finely chopped
onion. Add one-half cup finely chopped cold cooked chicken or
veal, one cup stale soft bread crumbs, tomato pulp, and salt and
pepper to taste. Cook five minutes, then add one egg slightly
beaten, cook one minute, and refill tomatoes with mixture. Place
in buttered pan, sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake
twenty minutes in a hot oven.

Turnips

Turnips are best during the fall and winter; towards spring they
become corky, and are then suitable only for stews and flavoring.
The Ruta-baga, a large yellow turnip, is one of the best varieties;
the large French turnip and the small flat Purple Top are also used.

Mashed Turnip

Wash and pare turnips, cut in slices or quarters, and cook in
boiling salted water until soft. Drain, mash, and season with butter,
salt, and pepper.

Creamed Turnip

Wash turnips, and cut in one-half inch cubes. Cook three cups
cubes in boiling salted water twenty minutes, or until soft. Drain,
and add one cup White Sauce I.

Turnip Croquettes

Wash, pare, and cut in quarters new French turnips. Steam until
tender, mash, pressing out all water that is possible. This is best
accomplished by wringing in cheese-cloth. Season one and
one-fourth cups with salt and pepper, then add yolks of two eggs
slightly beaten. Cool, shape in small croquettes, dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Stewed Mushrooms

Brush one-half pound mushrooms. Remove Stems, scrape, and cut
in pieces. Peel caps, and break in pieces. Melt three tablespoons of
butter, add mushrooms, cook two minutes; sprinkle with salt and
pepper, dredge with flour, and add one-half cup hot water or stock.
Cook slowly five minutes.

Stewed Mushrooms in Cream

Prepare mushrooms as for Stewed Mushrooms. Cook with
three-fourths cup cream instead of using water or stock. Add a
slight grating of nutmeg, pour over small finger-shaped pieces of
dry toast, and garnish with toast points and parsley.

Broiled Mushrooms

Brush mushrooms, remove stems, and place caps in a buttered
broiler, and broil five minutes, having cap side down first half of
broiling. Serve on circular pieces of buttered dry toast. Put a small
piece of butter in each cap, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
serve as soon as butter has melted. Care must be taken, in
removing from broiler, to keep mushrooms cap side up, to prevent
loss of juices.

Baked Mushrooms in Cream

Brush twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, and peel caps. Put
in a shallow buttered pan, cap side up. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and dot over with butter; add two-thirds cup cream. Bake
ten minutes in a hot oven Place on pieces of dry toast, and pour
over them cream remaining in pan.

Sauted Mushrooms

Brush, remove stems, peel caps, and break in pieces; there should
be one cup of mushrooms. Put two tablespoons butter in a hot
omelet pan; when melted, add mushrooms which have been
dredged with flour, few drops onion juice, one-fourth teaspoon
salt, a few grains pepper, and cook five minutes. Add one teaspoon
finely chopped parsley and one-fourth cup boiling water. Cook two
minutes, and serve on dry toast.
Mushrooms a la Sabine
Wash one-half pound mushrooms, remove stems, and peel caps.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cook three
minutes in a hot frying-pan, with two tablespoons butter. Add one
and one-third cups Brown Sauce, and cook slowly five minutes.
Sprinkle with three tablespoons grated cheese. As soon as cheese
is melted, arrange mushrooms on pieces of toast, and pour over
sauce. Garnish with parsley.

Mushrooms a l'Algonquin

Brush large selected mushrooms. Remove stems, peel caps, and
saute caps in butter. Place in a small buttered shallow pan, cap side
being up; place on each a large oyster, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and place on each a bit of butter. Cook in a hot oven until
oysters are plump. Serve with Brown or Bechamel Sauce.

Mushrooms Allamande

Brush mushroom caps, and saute in butter. Put together in pairs,
cover with Allamande Sauce, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs
again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Allamande Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-third cup
flour, and pour on gradually one cup White Stock; then add one
egg yolk and season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Stuffed Mushrooms

Brush twelve large mushrooms. Remove stems, chop finely, and
peel caps. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one-half tablespoon
finely chopped shallot and chopped stems, then cook ten minutes.
Add one and one-half tablespoons flour, chicken stock to moisten,
a slight grating of nutmeg, one-half teaspoon finely chopped
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Cool mixture and fill caps,
well rounding over top. Cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and
bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

Mushrooms under Glass I

Cover the bottom of an individual baking-dish with circular pieces
of toasted bread. Arrange mushroom caps on toast, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and pour over a small
quantity of hot cream. Cover, and bake twenty minutes.

Individual dishes with bell-shaped glass covers may be bought at
first-class kitchen furnishers. These dishes are sent to table with
covers left on, that the fine flavor of the prepared viand may all be
retained.
Mushrooms under Glass II

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
Bread
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup heavy cream
Few grains pepper
Sherry wine
Mushrooms

Cream the butter, add lemon juice drop by drop, salt, pepper, and
parsley. Cut bread in circular piece three-eighths inch thick, then
toast. Put one-half of the sauce on the under side of toast; put toast
on a small baking dish, pile mushroom caps cleaned and pealed in
conical shape on toast, and pour over cream. Cover with glass and
bake about twenty-five minutes, adding more cream if necessary.
Just before serving add one teaspoon Sherry wine.

Vegetable Souffle

1/4 cup butter
1 cup cooked vegetables rubbed through a sieve, carrots, turnips,
or onions
1/4 cup flour
1/3 cup cream
1/3 cup water in which vegetables were cooked
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs
Salt and pepper

Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually cream and water; add
vegetable, yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon colored, and
fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff; then add seasonings. Turn
in a buttered baking-dish and bake in a slow oven.
Curried Vegetables
Cook one cup each potatoes and carrots, and one-half cup turnip,
cut in fancy shapes, in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, add
one-half cup canned peas, and pour over a sauce made by cooking
two tablespoons butter with two slices onion five minutes,
removing onion, adding two tablespoons flour, three-fourths
teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon curry powder, one-fourth
teaspoon pepper, few grains celery salt, and pouring on gradually
one cup scalded milk. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Macedoine of Vegetables a la Poulette

Clean carrots and turnips and cut into strips or fancy shapes; there
should be one and one-fourth cups carrots and one-half cup
turnips. Cook separately in boiling salted water until soft. Drain,
and add one and one-fourth cups cooked peas. Reheat in a sauce
made of three tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, one cup
chicken stock, and one-half cup cream. Season to taste with pepper
and salt, and just before serving add yolks two eggs and one-half
tablespoon lemon juice.

Chapter XX. POTATOES.

COMPOSITION

Water, 78.9%
Proteid, 2.1%
Starch, 18%
Mineral matter, .9%
Fat 1.%

POTATOES stand pre-eminent among the vegetables used for
food. They are tubers belonging to the Nightshade family; their
hardy growth renders them easy of cultivation in almost any soil or
climate, and, resisting early frosts, they may be raised in a higher
latitude than the cereals.

They give needed bulk to food rather than nutriment, and, lacking
in proteid, should be used in combination with meat, fish, or eggs.

Potatoes contain an acrid juice, the greater part of which lies near
the skin; it passes into the water during boiling of potatoes, and
escapes with the steam from a baked potato.

Potatoes are best in the fall, and keep well through the winter. By
spring the starch is partially changed to dextrin, giving the potatoes
a sweetness, and when cooked a waxiness. The same change takes
place when potatoes are frozen. To prevent freezing, keep a pail of
cold water standing near them.

Potatoes keep best in a cool dry cellar, in barrels or piled in a bin.
When sprouts appear they should be removed; receiving their
nourishment from the starch, they deteriorate the potato.

New potatoes may be compared to unripe fruit, the starch grains
not having reached maturity; therefore they should not be given to
children or invalids.

Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes, although analogous to white potatoes, are fleshy
roots of the plant, belong to a different family (Convolvulus), and
contain a much larger percentage of sugar. Our own country
produces large quantities of sweet potatoes, which may be grown
as far north as New Jersey and Southern Michigan. Kiln-dried
sweet potatoes are the best, as they do not so quickly spoil.

Baked Potatoes

Select smooth, medium-sized potatoes. Wash, using a vegetable
brush, and place in dripping-pan. Bake in hot oven forty minutes or
until soft, remove from oven, and serve at once. If allowed to
stand, unless the skin is ruptured for escape of steam, they become
soggy. Properly baked potatoes are more easily digested than
potatoes cooked in any other way, as some of the starch is changed
to dextrin by the intense heat. They are better cooked in boiling
water than baked in a slow oven.

Boiled Potatoes

Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, and drop at once in
cold water to prevent discoloration; soak one-half hour in the fall,
and one to two hours in winter and spring. Cook in boiling salted
water until soft, which is easily determined by piercing with a
skewer. For seven potatoes allow one tablespoon salt, and boiling
water to cover. Drain from water, and keep uncovered in warm
place until serving time. Avoid sending to table in a covered
vegetable dish. In boiling large potatoes, it often happens that
outside is soft, while centre is underdone. To finish cooking
without potatoes breaking apart, add one pint cold water, which
drives heat to centre, thus accomplishing the cooking.

Riced Potatoes

Force hot boiled potatoes through a potato ricer or coarse strainer.
Serve lightly piled in a hot vegetable dish.

Mashed Potatoes

To five riced potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon
salt, few grains pepper, and one-third cup hot milk; beat with fork
until creamy, reheat, and pile lightly in hot dish.

Potato Omelet

Prepare Mashed Potatoes, turn in hot omelet pan greased with one
tablespoon butter, spread evenly, cook slowly until browned
underneath, and fold as an omelet.

Potato Border

Place a buttered mould on platter, build around it a wall of hot
Mashed Potatoes, using nine potatoes, three and one-half inches
high by one inch deep, smooth, and crease with case knife.
Remove mould, fill with creamed meat or fish, and reheat in oven
before serving.

Escalloped Potatoes

Wash, pare, soak, and cut four potatoes in one-forth inch slices.
Put a layer in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and dot over with one-half tablespoon butter;
repeat. Add hot milk until it may be seen through top layer, bake
one and one-fourth hours or until potato is soft.

Potatoes a la Hollandaise

Wash, pare, soak, and cut potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, shape
with French vegetable cutters; or cut in one-half inch cubes. Cover
three cups potato with White Stock, cook until soft, and drain.
Cream one-third cup butter, add one tablespoon lemon juice,
one-half teaspoon salt, and few grains of cayenne. Add to potatoes,
cook three minutes, and add one-half tablespoon finely chopped
parsley.

Chambery Potatoes

Wash, pare, and thinly slice potatoes, using vegetable slicer. Let
stand one-half hour in cold water, then drain, and dry between
towels. Arrange in layers in a well buttered iron frying-pan, having
pan three-fourths full. seasoning each layer with salt and pepper,
and brushing over with melted butter. Cook in a moderate oven
until soft and well browned.

Potatoes Baked in Half Shell

Select six medium-sized potatoes and bake, following recipe for
Baked Potatoes. Remove from oven, cut slice from side of each,
and scoop out inside. Mash, add two tablespoons butter, salt,
pepper, and three tablespoons hot milk; then add whites two eggs
well beaten. Refill skins, and bake five to eight minutes in very hot
oven. Potatoes may be sprinkled with grated cheese before putting
in oven.

Duchess Potatoes

To two cups hot riced potatoes add two tablespoons butter,
one-half teaspoon salt, and yolks of three eggs slightly beaten.
Shape, using pastry bag and tube, in form of baskets, pyramids,
crowns, leaves, roses, etc. Brush over with beaten egg diluted with
one teaspoon water, and brown in a hot oven.

Matre d'Htel Potatoes

Wash, pare, and shape potatoes in balls, using a French vegetable
cutter, or cut potatoes in one-half inch cubes. There should be two
cups. Soak fifteen minutes in cold water, and cook in boiling
salted water to cover until soft. Drain, and add Matre d'Htel
Butter.

Matre d'Htel Butter

Cream three tablespoons butter, add one teaspoon lemon juice very
slowly, one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and
one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

Franconia Potatoes

Prepare as for Boiled Potatoes, and parboil ten minutes; drain, and
place in pan in which meat is roasting; bake until soft, basting with
fat in pan when basting meat. Time required for baking about forty
minutes. Sweet potatoes may be prepared in the same way.

Brabant Potatoes

Prepare same as for Boiled Potatoes, using small potatoes, and
trim egg-shaped; parboil ten minutes, drain, and place in
baking-pan and bake until soft, basting three times with melted
butter.

Anna Potatoes

Wash and pare medium-sized potatoes. Cut lengthwise in
one-fourth inch slices, and fasten in fan shapes, with small wooden
skewers, allowing five slices of potato to each skewer. Parboil ten
minutes, drain, then place in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot
oven until soft, basting every three minutes with butter or some
other fat.

Persillade Potatoes

Wash and pare small potatoes, and cut in shapes of large olives.
Cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and let stand to dry
off. Turn into hot serving dish, pour over clarified butter, sprinkle
generously with paprika, and send to table at once.

Potato Bells

Select large potatoes, wash, pare, and soak. Shape in balls with a
French vegetable cutter. Cook in boiling salted water until soft;
drain, and to one pint potatoes add one cup Thin White Sauce.
Turn into hot dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Hongroise Potatoes

Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in one-third inch cubes, there should
be three cups; parboil three minutes, and drain. Add one-third cup
butter, and cook on back of range until potatoes are soft and
slightly browned. Melt two tablespoons butter, add a few drops
onion juice, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one cup
hot milk. Season with salt and paprika, then add one egg yolk.
Pour sauce over potatoes, and sprinkle with finely chopped
parsley.

FRIED POTATOES

Shadow Potatoes (Saratoga Chips)

Wash and pare potatoes. Slice thinly (using vegetable slicer) into a
bowl of cold water. Let stand two hours, changing water twice.
Drain, plunge in a kettle of boiling water, and boil one minute.
Drain again, and cover with cold water. Take from water and dry
between towels. Fry in deep fat until light brown, keeping in
motion with a skimmer. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with
salt.

Shredded Potatoes

Wash, pare and cut potatoes in one-eighth inch slices. Cut slices in
one-eighth inch strips. Soak one hour in cold water. Take from
water, dry between towels, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown
paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve around fried or baked fish.
Lattice Potatoes
Wash and pare potatoes. Slice, using a vegetable slicer which
comes for this purpose, and let stand in a bowl of cold water two
hours. Drain, and dry between towels. Fry in deep fat, drain on
brown paper, and sprinkle with salt.

Potato Nests

Wash, pare and cut potatoes in thin strips, using same slicer as for
Lattice Potatoes. Soak in cold water fifteen minutes, drain, and dry
between towels. Line a fine wire strainer of four-inch diameter,
and having a wire handle, with potatoes, place a similar strainer,
having a two and one-half inch diameter, in larger strainer, thus
holding potatoes in nest shapes. Fry in deep fat, taking care that the
fat does not reach too high a temperature at first. Keep the small
strainer in place during frying with a long handled spoon.
Carefully remove nests from strainers. Drain on brown paper, and
sprinkle with salt. Fill with small fillets of fried fish or fried
smelts.

French Fried Potatoes

Wash and pare small potatoes, cut in eighth lengthwise, and soak
one hour in cold water. Take from water, dry between towels, and
fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with fat.

Care must be taken that fat is not too hot, as potatoes must be
cooked as well as browned.

O'Brion Potatoes

Fry three cups potato cubes or balls in deep fat, drain on brown
paper, and sprinkle with salt. Cook one slice onion in one and
one-half tablespoons butter three minutes, remove onion, and add
to butter three canned pimentoes cut in small pieces. When
thoroughly heated add potatoes; stir until well mixed, turn into
serving dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Potato Marbles

Wash and pare potatoes. Shape in balls, using a French vegetable
cutter. Soak fifteen minutes in cold water; take from water and dry
between towels. Fry in deep fat, drain and sprinkle with salt.

Fried Potato Balls

To one cup hot riced potatoes add one tablespoon butter,
one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon celery salt, and few
grains cayenne. Cool slightly, and add one-half beaten egg and
one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley. Shape in small balls, roll
in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Potatoes, Somerset Style

To two cups hot riced potatoes add two tablespoons butter,
one-half cup grated mild cheese, yolks three eggs, slightly beaten,
one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Shape in form of
birds, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, insert slices of raw potato
cut to represent wings and tail, and cloves to represent eyes. Fry in
deep fat and drain on brown paper.

Potato Fritters

2 cups hot riced potatoes
Few gratings nutmeg
2 tablespoons cream
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons wine
3 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 cup flour

Add cream, wine, and seasonings to potatoes; then add eggs well
beaten, having bowl containing mixture in pan of ice-water, and
beat until cold. Add flour, and when well mixed, drop by spoonfuls
in deep fat, fry until delicately browned, and drain on brown paper.

Potato Curls

Wash and pare large long potatoes. Shape with a potato curler,
soak one hour in cold water, drain, dry between towels, fry in deep
fat, drain, and sprinkle with salt.

Potato Croquettes

2 cups hot riced potatoes
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
Few drops onion juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
Yolk 1 egg
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon celery salt

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry one minute in deep fat, and
drain on brown paper. Croquettes are shaped in a variety of forms.
The most common way is to first form a smooth ball by rolling one
rounding tablespoon of mixture between hands. Then roll on a
board until of desired length, and flatten ends.

French Potato Croquettes

2 cups hot riced potatoes
Yolks 3 eggs
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in
balls, then in rolls, pointed at ends. Roll in flour, mark in three
places on top of each with knife-blade to represent a small French
loaf. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Potato Apples

2 cups hot riced potatoes
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
Slight grating nutmeg
1/3 cup grated cheese
2 tablespoons thick cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs

Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in form
of small apples, roll in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and
drain on brown paper. Insert a clove at both stem and blossom end
of each apple.

Potatoes en Surprise

Makes Potato Croquette mixture, omitting parsley. Shape in small
nests and fill with Creamed Chicken, Shrimp, or peas. Cover nests
with Croquette mixture, then roll in form of croquettes. Dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again; fry in deep fat, and drain on brown
paper.

SWEET POTATOES

Bakes Sweet Potatoes

Prepare and bake same as white potatoes.

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style

Bake six medium sized sweet potatoes, remove from oven, cut in
halves lengthwise, and scoop out inside. Mash, add two
tablespoons butter, and cream to moisten. Season with salt and
Sherry wine. Refill skins and bake five minutes in a hot oven.

Boiled Sweet Potatoes

Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, and cook twenty
minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Many boil sweet potatoes
with the skins on.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes

To two cups rices sweet potatoes add three tablespoons butter,
one-half teaspoon salt, and hot milk to moisten. Beat until light,
and pile on a Vegetable dish.

Sweet Potatoes, Georgian Style

Season mashed boiled sweet potatoes with butter, salt, pepper, and
Sherry wine. Moisten with cream, and beat five minutes. Put in a
buttered baking-dish, leaving a rough surface. Pour over a syrup
made by boiling two tablespoons molasses and one teaspoon butter
five minutes. Bake in the oven until delicately browned.

Glazed Sweet Potatoes

Wash and pare six medium-sized potatoes. Cook in boiling salted
water until soft. Drain, cut in halves lengthwise, and put in a
buttered pan. Make a syrup by boiling three minutes one-half cup
sugar and four tablespoons water; add one tablespoon butter.
Brush potatoes with syrup and bake until brown, basting twice
with remaining syrup.

Sweet Potatoes au Gratin

Cut five medium-sized cold boiled sweet potatoes in one-third
inch slices. Put a layer in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with salt,
pepper, and three tablespoons brown sugar, dot over with one
tablespoon butter. Repeat, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and
bake until the crumbs are brown.

Sweet Potatoes en Brochettte

Wash and pare potatoes, and cut in one-third inch slices. Arrange
on skewers in groups of three or four, parboil six minutes, and
drain. Brush over with melted butter, sprinkle with brown sugar,
and bake in a hot oven until well browned.

Sweet Potato Balls

To two cups hot rices sweet potatoes add three tablespoons butter,
one-half teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and one beaten egg.
Shape in small balls, roll in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain. If
potatoes are very dry, it will be necessary to add hot milk to
moisten.

Sweet Potato Croquettes

Prepare mixture for sweet Potato Balls. Shape in Croquettes, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

WARMED-OVER POTATOES

Potato Cakes

Shape cold mashed potato in small cakes, and roll in flour. Butter
hot omelet pan, put in cakes, brown one side, turn and brown other
side, adding butter as needed to prevent burning; or pack potato in
small buttered pan as soon as it comes from table, and set aside
until ready for use. Turn from pan, cut in pieces, roll in flour, and
cook same as Potato Cakes.

Creamed Potatoes

Put two cups cold boiled potatoes, cut in dice, in one and one-half
cups White Sauce I.

Potatoes au Gratin

Put Creamed Potatoes in buttered baking-dish, cover with buttered
crumbs, and bake on centre grate until crumbs are brown.

Delmonico Potatoes

To Potatoes an Gratin add one-third cup grated mild cheese,
arranging potatoes and cheese in alternate layers before covering
with crumbs.

Potatoes  l'Antlers

Cook potatoes with jackets on, drain, and let stand twenty-four
hours. Peel, and cut in small cubes. Put into a saucepan with two
tablespoons butter to each two cups potatoes. Sprinkle with salt,
and generously with paprika. Add one cup cream, and cook slowly,
forty minutes.

Hashed Brown Potatoes

Try out fat salt pork cut in small cubes, remove scraps; there
should be about one-third cup of fat. Add two cups cold boiled
potatoes finely chopped, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and salt if
needed. Mix potatoes thoroughly with fat; cook three minutes,
stirring constantly; let stand to brown underneath. Fold as an
omelet and turn on hot platter.

Sauted Potatoes

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, season with salt
and pepper, put in a hot, well-greased frying-pan, brown on one
side, turn and brown on other side.

Chartreuse Potatoes

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-fourth inch slices, sprinkle with
salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice, put together in pairs, dip
in Batter I, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Lyonnaise Potatoes I

Cook five minutes three tablespoons butter with one small onion
cut in thin slices; add three cold boiled potatoes cut in one-fourth
inch slices and sprinkled with salt and pepper; stir until well mixed
with onion and butter; let stand until potato is brown underneath,
fold, and turn on a hot platter. This dish is much improved and
potatoes brown better by addition of two tablespoons Brown
Stock. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley if desired.

Lyonnaise Potatoes II

Slice cold boiled potatoes to make two cups. Cook five minutes
one and one-half tablespoons butter with one tablespoon finely
chopped onion. Melt two tablespoons butter, season with salt and
pepper, and potatoes, and cook until potatoes have absorbed
butter, occasionally shaking pan. Add butter and onion, and when
well mixed, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
French Chef

Oak Hill Potatoes

Cut four cold boiled potatoes and six "hard-boiled" eggs in
one-fourth inch slices. Put layer of potatoes in buttered
baking-dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with layer of
eggs; repeat, and pour over two cups Thin White Sauce. Cover
with buttered cracker crumbs and bake until the crumbs are brown.

Curried Potatoes

Cook one-fourth cup butter with one small onion, finely chopped
until yellow; add three cups cold boiled potato cubes, and cook
until potatoes have absorbed butter, then add from one-half to
three-fourths cup White Stock, one half tablespoon each curry
powder and lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until
potatoes have absorbed stock.

Chapter XXI. SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS.

SALADS, which constitute a course in almost every dinner, but a
few years since seldom appeared on the table. They are now made
in an endless variety of ways, and are composed of meat, fish,
vegetables (alone or in combination) or fruits, with the addition of
a dressing. The salad plants, lettuce, watercress, chiccory,
cucumbers, etc., contain but little nutriment, but are cooling,
refreshing, and assist in stimulating the appetite. They are valuable
for the water and potash salts they contain. The olive oil, which
usually forms the largest part of the dressing, furnishes nutriment,
and is of much value to the system.

Salads made of greens should always be served crisp and cold. The
vegetables should be thoroughly washed, allowed to stand in cold
or ice-water until crisp, then drained and spread on a towel and set
aside in a cold place until serving time. See Lettuce, page 294.
Dressing may be added at table or just before sending to table. If
greens are allowed to stand in dressing they will soon wilt. It
should be remembered that winter greens are raised under glass
and should be treated as any other hothouse plant. Lettuce will be
affected by a change of temperature and wilt just as quickly as
delicate flowers.

Canned or cold cooked left-over vegetables are well utilized in
salads, but are best mixed with French Dressing and allowed to
stand in a cold place one hour before serving. Where several
vegetables are used in the same salad they should be marinated
separately, and arranged for serving just before sending to table.

Meat for salads should be freed from skin and gristle, cut in small
cubes, and allowed to stand mixed with French Dressing before
combining with vegetables. Fish should be flaked or cut in cubes.

Where salads are dressed at table, first sprinkle with salt and
pepper, add oil, and lastly vinegar. If vinegar is added before oil,
the greens will become wet, and oil will not cling, but settle to
bottom of bowl.

A Chapon. Remove a small piece from end of French loaf and rub
over with a clove of garlic, first dipped in salt. Place in bottom of
salad bowl before arranging salad. A chapon is often used in
vegetable salads, and gives an agreeable additional flavor.

To Marinate. The word marinate, as used in cookery, means to add
salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar to a salad ingredient or mixture, then
allow to let stand until well seasoned.

SALAD DRESSINGS

French Dressing

1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vinegar
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil

Put ingredients in small cream jar and shake. Some prefer the
addition of a few drops onion juice. French dressing is more easily
prepared and largely used than any other dressing. One tablespoon,
each, lemon juice and vinegar may be used.

Parisian French Dressing

1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
5 tablespoons vinegar
1/2 teaspoon powdered sugar
4 red peppers
1 tablespoon finely chopped Bermuda onion
8 green peppers
1 teaspoon salt

Mix ingredients in the order given. Let stand one hour, then stir
vigorously for five minutes. This is especially fine with lettuce,
romaine, chiccory, or endive. The red and green peppers are the
small ones found in pepper sauce.

Club French Dressing

1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons Tarragon vinegar
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons olive oil

Mix ingredients and stir until well blended.

Curry Dressing

3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given and stir until well blended.

Cream Dressing I

1/4 tablespoon salt
1 egg slightly beaten
1/2 tablespoon mustard
21/2 tablespoons melted butter
3/4 tablespoon sugar
3/4 cup cream
1/4 cup vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given, adding vinegar very slowly. Cook
over boiling water, stirring constantly until mixture thickens, strain
and cool.

Cream Dressing II

1 teaspoon mustard
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon butter
2 teaspoons flour
Yolk 1 egg
11/2 teaspoons powdered sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
1/2 cup thick cream, sweet or sour

Mix dry ingredients, add butter, egg, and vinegar slowly. Cook
over boiling water, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens; cool,
and add to heavy cream, beaten until stiff.

Boiled Dressing I

1/4 tablespoon salt
11/2 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon mustard
Yolks 2 eggs
11/2 tablespoons sugar
11/2 tablespoons melted butter
Few grains cayenne
3/4 cup milk
1/4 cup vinegar

Mix dry ingredients, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, butter, milk,
and vinegar very slowly. Cook over boiling water until mixture
thickens; strain and cool.

Boiled Dressing II

Yolks 4 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
11/2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons vinegar
3 teaspoons powdered sugar
1 pint whipped cream

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add gradually one-half of the oil and
lemon juice. Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens; chill,
and add gradually remaining oil, salt, and sugar. Just before
serving add cream.

German Dressing

1/2 cup thick cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons vinegar
Few grains pepper

Beat cream until stiff, using Dover Egg-beater. Add salt, pepper,
and vinegar very slowly, continuing the beating.

Chicken Salad Dressing

1/2 cup rich chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup vinegar
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Yolks 5 eggs
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons mixed mustard
1/2 cup thick cream
1/3 cup melted butter

Reduce stock in which a fowl has been cooked to one-half cupful.
Add vinegar, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, mustard, salt, pepper,
and cayenne. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until
mixture thickens. Strain, add cream and melted butter, then cool.

Oil Dressing I

4 "hard-boiled" eggs
1/2 teaspoon mustard
4 tablespoons oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons vinegar
Few grains cayenne
1/2 tablespoon sugar
White 1 egg

Force yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs through a strainer, then work,
using a silver or wooden spoon, until smooth. Add sugar, mustard,
salt, and cayenne, and when well blended add gradually oil and
vinegar, stirring and beating until thoroughly mixed; then cut and
fold in white of egg beaten until stiff.

Oil Dressing II

11/2 teaspoons mustard
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup vinegar diluted with cold water to make one-half cup
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
Few grains cayenne
2 eggs, slightly beaten

Mix dry ingredients, add egg and oil gradually, stirring constantly
until thoroughly mixed; then add diluted vinegar. Cook over
boiling water until mixture thickens; strain and cool.

Mayonnaise Dressing I

1 teaspoon mustard
Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar
Few grains cayenne
11/2 cups olive oil

Mix dry ingredients, add egg yolks, and when well mixed add
one-half teaspoon of vinegar. Add oil gradually, at first drop by
drop, and stir constantly. As mixture thickens, thin with vinegar or
lemon juice. Add oil, and vinegar or lemon juice alternately, until
all is used, stirring or beating constantly. If oil is added too rapidly,
dressing will have a curdled appearance. A smooth consistency
may be restored by taking yolk of another egg and adding curdled
mixture slowly to it. It is desirable to have bowl containing
mixture placed in a larger bowl of crushed ice, to which a small
quantity of water has been added. Olive oil for making
Mayonnaise should always be thoroughly chilled. A silver fork,
wire-whisk, small wooden spoon, or egg-beater may be used as
preferred. Mayonnaise should be stiff enough to hold its shape. It
soon liquefies when added to meat or vegetables; therefore it
should be added just before serving time.

Mayonnaise Dressing II
Use same ingredients as for Mayonnaise Dressing I, adding
mashed yolk of a "hard-boiled" egg to dry ingredients. French Chef

Cream Mayonnaise Dressing

To Mayonnaise Dressing I or II add one-third cup thick cream,
beaten until stiff. This recipe should be used only when dressing is
to be eaten the day it is made.

Green Mayonnaise

Color Mayonnaise Dressing I with juices expressed from parsley
and watercress, using one-half as much parsley as watercress. To
obtain coloring, break greens in pieces, pound in a mortar until
thoroughly macerated, then squeeze through cheese-cloth. Lobster
coral, rubbed through a fine sieve, added to Mayonnaise, makes
Red Mayonnaise.

Potato Mayonnaise

Very small baked potato
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
1 teaspoon mustard
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup olive oil

Remove and mash the inside of potato. Add mustard, salt, and
powdered sugar; add one tablespoon vinegar, and rub mixture
through a fine sieve. Add slowly oil and remaining vinegar. By the
taste one would hardly realize eggs were not used in the making.

SALADS

Dressed Lettuce

Prepare lettuce as directed. Serve with French Dressing.

Lettuce and Cucumber Salad

Place a chapon in bottom of salad bowl. Wash, drain, and dry one
head lettuce, arrange in bowl, and place between leaves one
cucumber cut in thin slices. Serve with French Dressing.

Lettuce and Radish Salad

Prepare and arrange as for Dressed Lettuce. Place between leaves
six radishes which have been washed, scraped, and cut in thin
slices. Garnish with round radishes cut to represent tulips.
Serve with French Dressing.

Lettuce and Tomato Salad

Peel and chill three tomatoes. Cut in halves crosswise, arrange
each half on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with Mayonnaise Dressing
forced through a pastry bag and tube. If tomatoes are small, cut in
quarters, and allow one tomato to each lettuce leaf.

Dressed Watercress

Wash, remove roots, drain, and chill watercress. Arrange in salad
dish, and serve with French Dressing.

Cucumber Salad

Remove thick slices from both ends of a cucumber, cut off a thick
paring, and with a sharp pointed knife cut five parallel grooves
lengthwise of cucumber at equal distances; then cut in thin parallel
slices crosswise, keeping cucumber in its original shape. Arrange
on lettuce leaves, and pour over Parisian French Dressing. Serve
with fish course.

Watercress and Cucumber Salad

Prepare watercress and add one cucumber, pared, chilled, and cut
in one-half inch dice. Serve with French Dressing.

Cucumber and Tomato Salad

Arrange sliced tomatoes on a bed of lettuce leaves. Pile on each
slice, cucumber cubes cut one-half inch square. Serve with French
or Mayonnaise Dressing.

Cucumber Cups with Lettuce

Pare cucumbers, cut in quarters crosswise, remove centres from
pieces, arrange on lettuce leaves, and fill cups with Sauce Tartare .

Cucumber Baskets

Select three long, regular-shaped cucumbers; cut a piece from both
the stem and blossom end of each; then cut in halves crosswise.
Cut two pieces from each section, leaving remaining piece in
shape of basket with handle. Remove pulp and seeds, in
sufficiently large pieces to cut in cubes for refilling one-half the
baskets, the remaining half being filled with pieces of tomatoes.
Arrange baskets on lettuce leaves, alternating the fillings, and pour
over French Dressing.

Dressed Celery

Wash, scrape, and cut stalks of celery in thin slices. Mix with
Cream Dressing I.

Celery and Cabbage Salad

Remove outside leaves from a small solid white cabbage, and cut
off stalk close to leaves. Cut out centre, and with a sharp knife
shred finely. Let stand one hour in cold or ice water. Drain, wring
in double cheese-cloth, to make as dry as possible. Mix with equal
parts celery cut in small pieces. Moisten with Cream Dressing and
refill cabbage. Arrange on a folded napkin and garnish with celery
tips and parsley between folds of napkin and around top of
cabbage.

Asparagus Salad

Drain and rinse stalks of canned asparagus. Cut rings from a bright
red pepper one-third inch wide. Place three or four stalks in each
ring. Arrange on lettuce leaves and serve with French Dressing, to
which has been added one-half tablespoon tomato catsup.

Corn Salad
               
Drain one can corn and season with mustard and onion juice.
Marinate with French Dressing, let stand one hour, then drain.
Arrange on a bed of lettuce or chiccory.

String Bean Salad

Marinate two cups cold string beans with French Dressing. Add
one teaspoon finely cut chives. Pile in centre of salad dish and
arrange around base thin slices of radishes overlapping one
another. Garnish top with radish cut to represent a tulip.

Potato Salad I

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-half inch cubes. Sprinkle four
cupfuls with one-half tablespoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon
pepper. Add four tablespoons oil and mix thoroughly; then add
two tablespoons vinegar. A few drops of onion juice may be
added, or one-half tablespoon chives finely cut. Arrange in a
mound and garnish with whites and yolks of two "hard-boiled"
eggs, cold boiled red beets, and parsley. Chop whites and arrange
on one-fourth of the mound; chop beets finely, mix with one
tablespoon vinegar, and let stand fifteen minutes; then arrange on
fourths of mounds next to whites. Arrange on remaining fourth of
mound yolks chopped or forced through a potato ricer. Put small
sprigs of parsley in lines dividing beets from eggs; also garnish
with parsley at base.

Potato Salad II

Mix two cups cold boiled riced potatoes and one cup pecan nut
meats broken in pieces. Marinate with French Dressing, and
arrange on a bed of watercress.

Hot Potato Salad

Wash six medium sized potatoes, and cook in boiling salted water
until soft. Cool, remove skins, and cut in very thin slices. Cover
bottom of baking-dish with potatoes, season with salt and pepper,
sprinkle with finely chopped celery, then with finely chopped
parsley. Mix two tablespoons each tarragon and cider vinegar and
four tablespoons olive oil, and add one slice lemon cut one third
inch thick. Bring to boiling-point, pour over potatoes, cover, and
let stand in oven until thoroughly warmed.

Potato and Celery Salad

To two cups boiled potatoes cut in one-half inch cubes add
one-half cup finely cut celery and a medium-sized apple, pared,
cut in eighths, then eighths cut in thin slices. Marinate with French
Dressing. Arrange in a mound and garnish with celery tip and
sections of bright red apple.

Bolivia Salad

Cut cold boiled potatoes in one-half inch cubes; there should be
one and one-half cups. Add three "hard-boiled" eggs finely
chopped, one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped red peppers,
and one-half tablespoon chopped chives. Pour over Cream
Dressing I and serve in nests of lettuce leaves.

Lettuce Salad

Wash one head romaine and cut in pieces, using scissors. Mix two
cups cold riced potatoes, one-half pound white mushroom caps
peeled and cut in eighths, and one pound Brazil nut meats (from
which skins have been removed) cut in pieces. Moisten with
French Dressing, made by allowing one-third tarragon vinegar to
two-thirds olive oil. Arrange on salad dish, surround with romaine,
and garnish with three peeled mushroom caps and six Brazil nut
meats.

Macedoine Salad

Marinate separately cold cooked cauliflower, peas, and carrots cut
in small cubes, and outer stalks of celery finely cut. Arrange peas
and carrots in alternate piles in centre of a salad dish. Pile
cauliflower on top. Arrange celery in four piles at equal distances.
At top of each pile place a small gherkin cut lengthwise in very
thin slices, beginning at blossom end and cutting nearly to stem
end. Open slices to represent a fan. Place between piles of celery a
slice of tomato.

Almost any cold cooked vegetables on hand may be used for a
Macedoine Salad, and if care is taken in arrangement, they make a
very attractive dish.

Russian Salad

Mix one cup each cold cooked carrot cubes and potato cubes, one
cup cold cooked peas, and one cup cold cooked beans, and
marinate with French Dressing. Arrange on lettuce leaves in four
sections, and cover each section with Mayonnaise Dressing.
Garnish two sections with small pieces of smoked salmon, one
section with finely chopped whites of "hard boiled" eggs, and one
section with yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs forced through a strainer.
Put small sprigs of parsley or shrimps in lines dividing sections.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple

Peel medium-sized tomatoes. Remove thin slice from top of each,
and take out seeds and some of pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt,
invert, and let stand one-half hour. Fill tomatoes with fresh
pineapple cut in small cubes or shredded, and nut meats, using
two-thirds pineapple and one third nut meats. Mix with
Mayonnaise Dressing, garnish with Mayonnaise, halves of nut
meats, and slices cut from tops cut square. Serve on a bed of
lettuce leaves.

Stuffed Tomato Salad I

Peel medium-sized tomatoes. Remove thin slice from top of each
and take out seeds and some of pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt,
invert, and let stand one-half hour. Fill tomatoes with cucumbers
cut in small cubes and mixed with Mayonnaise Dressing. Arrange
on lettuce leaves, and garnish top of each with Mayonnaise
Dressing forced through a pastry-bag and tube.

Stuffed Tomato Salad II

Prepare tomatoes same as for Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple.
Refill with finely cut celery and apple, using equal parts. Serve
with Mayonnaise, and garnish with shredded lettuce.

Stuffed Tomato Salad (German Style)

Prepare tomatoes same as Tomatoes Stuffed with Pineapple. Shred
finely one-half a cabbage. Let stand two hours in salted water,
allowing two tablespoons salt to one quart water. Cook slowly
thirty minutes one-half cup each cold water and vinegar, with a bit
of bay leaf, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, one-fourth teaspoon
mustard seed, and six cloves. Strain, and pour over cabbage
drained from salt water. Let stand two hours, again drain, and refill
tomatoes.

Tomato and Horseradish Salad

Peel and chill tomatoes, cut in halves crosswise, arrange on lettuce
leaves, and garnish with Horseradish Sauce I.

Hindoo Salad

Arrange four slices tomato on a bed of shredded lettuce. On two of
the slices pile shaved celery, on the opposite slices, finely cut
watercress. Garnish with small pieces of tomato shaped with
circular cutter, and serve with French Dressing.

Tomato Ciboulettes

Remove skins from four small tomatoes, and cut in halves
crosswise. Cover with Mayonnaise, and sprinkle with finely
chopped chives. Serve on lettuce leaves.

Tomato and Watercress Salad

Peel and chill large tomatoes, cut in slices one-third inch thick,
and slices in strips one-third inch wide. Arrange on a flat dish to
represent lattice work, and fill in the spaces with watercress. Serve
with French Dressing.

Tomato and Cucumber Salad

Arrange alternate slices of tomato and cucumber until six slices
have been piled one on top of another. Place on lettuce leaves,
garnish with strips of red and green peppers. Serve with French
and Mayonnaise Dressing. Remove seeds from peppers and parboil
two minutes before using.

Salad Chiffonade

Cook two green peppers in boiling water to which one-fourth
teaspoon soda has been added one minute; cool, and shred. Shred
one head of romaine, remove pulp from one large grape fruit, and
cut three small ripe tomatoes in quarters lengthwise. Arrange in
salad dish and serve with French Dressing.

Wiersbick's Salad

Peel small tomatoes of uniform size and scoop out a portion of
centres. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves and garnish top of each
with a slice of cucumber, slice of truffle cut in fancy shape, and
ring of green pepper. Serve with the following dressing:

Mix three tablespoons Louit Frres mustard, one-fourth teaspoon
salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, one tablespoon vinegar, and
one-half teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce; then add slowly, while
stirring constantly, one-half cup olive oil.

Tomato and Cheese Salad

Peel six medium-sized tomatoes, chill, and scoop out a small
quantity of pulp from the centre of each. Fill cavities, using equal
parts of Roquefort and Neufchtel cheese worked together and
moistened with French Dressing. Arrange on lettuce leaves and
serve with French Dressing.

Tomato Jelly Salad

To one can stewed and strained tomatoes add one teaspoon each of
salt and powdered sugar, and two-thirds box gelatine which has
soaked fifteen minutes in one-half cup cold water. Pour into small
cups, and chill. Run a knife around inside of moulds, so that when
taken out shapes may have a rough surface, suggesting a fresh
tomato. Place on lettuce leaves and garnish top of each with
Mayonnaise Dressing.

Frozen Tomato Salad

Open one quart can tomatoes, turn from can, and let stand one
hour that they may be re-oxygenated. Add three tablespoons sugar,
and season highly with salt and cayenne; then rub through a sieve.
Turn into one-half pound breakfast-cocoa boxes, cover tightly,
pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand three hours.
Remove from mould, arrange on lettuce leaves, and serve with
Mayonnaise Dressing.

Salad a la Russe

Peel six tomatoes, remove thin slices from top of each, and take
out seeds and pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, invert, and let stand
one-half hour. Place seeds and pulp removed from tomatoes in a
strainer to drain. Mix one-third cup cucumbers cut in dice,
one-third cup cold cooked peas, one-fourth cup pickles finely
chopped, one-third cup tomato pulp, and two tablespoons capers.
Season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Put in a cheese-cloth and
squeeze; then add one-half cup cold cooked chicken cut in very
small dice. Mix with Mayonnaise Dressing, refill tomatoes,
sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and place each on a lettuce
leaf.

Spinach Salad

Pick over, wash, and cook one-half peck spinach. Drain, and chop
finely. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add one
tablespoon melted butter. Butter slightly small tin moulds and
pack solidly with mixture. Chill, remove from moulds, and arrange
on thin slices of cold boiled tongue cut in circular pieces. Garnish
base of each with a wreath of parsley, and serve on top of each
Sauce Tartare.

Moulded Russian Salad

Reduce strong consomme so that when cold it will be jelly-like in
consistency. Set individual moulds in pan of ice-water, pour in
consomme one-fourth inch deep; when firm, decorate bottom and
sides of moulds with cold cooked carrots, beets and potatoes cut in
fancy shapes. Add consomme to cover vegetables, and as soon as
firm fill moulds two-thirds full of any cooked vegetable that may
be at hand. Add consomme by spoonfuls, allowing it to become
firm between the additions, and put in enough to cover vegetables.
Chill thoroughly, remove from moulds, and arrange on lettuce
leaves. Serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

Mexican Jelly

Peel four large cucumbers and cut in thin slices. Put in saucepan
with one cup cold water, bring to boiling-point, and cook slowly
until soft; then force through a puree strainer. Add two and
one-half tablespoons granulated gelatine dissolved in three-fourths
cup boiling water, few drops onion juice, one tablespoon vinegar,
few grains cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. Color with leaf
green, strain through cheese-cloth, and mould same as Fruit
Chartreuse . After removing small mould fill space with Tomato
Mayonnaise. Garnish sides of mould with thin slices of cucumber
shaped with a small round fluted cutter, and on the centre of each
slice place a circular piece of truffle. Garnish around base of
mould with small tomatoes peeled, chilled, and cut in halves
crosswise. On each slice of tomato place a circular fluted slice of
cucumber, and over all a circular piece of truffle. Serve with.

Tomato Mayonnaise. Color mayonnaise red with tomato puree.

Egg Salad I

Cut six "hard-boiled" eggs in halves crosswise, keeping whites in
pairs. Remove yolks, and mash or put through a potato ricer. Add
slowly enough Oil Dressing II to moisten. Make into balls the size
of original yolks and refill whites. Arrange on a bed of lettuce, and
pour Oil Dressing No. II around eggs.

Egg Salad II

Cut four "hard-boiled" eggs in halves crosswise in such a way that
tops of halves may be cut in small points. Remove yolks, mash,
and add an equal amount of finely chopped cooked chicken.
Moisten with Oil Dressing I, shape in balls size of original yolks,
and refill whites. Arrange on lettuce leaves, garnish with radishes
cut in fancy shapes, and serve with Oil Dressing I.

Lenten Salad

Separate yolks and whites of four "hard-boiled" eggs. Chop whites
finely, marinate with French Dressing, and arrange on lettuce
leaves. Force yolks through a potato ricer and pile on the centre of
whites. Serve with French Dressing.

Crackers and Cheese

Mash a cream cheese, season, and shape in balls, then flatten balls,
and serve on butter-thin crackers.

NOTE. Cream cheese is very acceptable served with zephyrettes or
butter-thins and Bar le Duc currants.

Cottage Cheese I

Heat one quart sour milk to 100 degrees F., and turn into a strainer
lined with cheese-cloth. Pour over one quart hot water, and as soon
as water has drained through, pour over another quart; then repeat.
Gather cheese-cloth around curd to form a bag and let hang until
curd is free from whey. Moisten with melted butter and heavy
cream, and add salt to taste. Shape into small balls.

Cottage Cheese II

Heat one quart sweet milk to 100 degrees F., and add one junket
tablet reduced to a powder. Let stand in warm place until set. Beat
with a fork to break curd, turn into a bag made of cheese-cloth,
and let hang until whey has drained from curd; then proceed as
with Cottage Cheese I.

Cheese Salad

Arrange one head lettuce on salad dish, sprinkle with Edam cheese
broken in small pieces, and pour over French Dressing.

Neufchtel Salad I

Cut cheese in dice, arrange on lettuce leaves, and garnish with
radishes. Serve with French Dressing.

Neufchtel Salad II

Mash one Neufchtel cheese and moisten with milk or cream.
Shape into forms the size of robins' eggs. Sprinkle with finely
chopped parsley, which has been dried. Arrange in nests of lettuce
leaves, and garnish with radishes. Serve with French Dressing.

Cheese and Olive Salad

Mash a cream cheese, moisten with cream, and season with salt
and cayenne. Add six olives finely chopped, lettuce finely cut, and
one-half a pimento cut in strips. Press in original shape of cheese
and let stand two hours. Cut in slices, separate in pieces, and serve
on lettuce leaves with Mayonnaise Dressing.
Cheese and Currant Salad
Mash a cream cheese and mix with finely chopped lettuce. Shape
in balls, arrange on lettuce leaves, pour over French Dressing, and
over all Bar le Duc currants.

East India Salad

Work two ten cent cream cheeses until smooth. Moisten with milk
and cream, using equal parts. Add one-half cup grated Young
America cheese, one cup whipped cream, and three-fourths
tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in one tablespoon cold
water and dissolved in one tablespoon boiling water. Season highly
with salt and paprika, and turn into a border mould. Chill, remove
from mould, arrange on lettuce leaves, fill centre with lettuce
leaves, and serve with Curry Dressing .

Nut Salad

Mix one cup chopped English walnut meat and two cups shredded
lettuce. Arrange on lettuce leaves and garnish with Mayonnaise
Dressing.

Nut and Celery Salad I

Mix equal parts of English walnut or pecan nut meat cut in pieces,
and celery cut in small pieces. Marinate with French Dressing.
Serve with a border of shredded lettuce.

Nut and Celery Salad II

Mix one and one-half cups finely cut celery, one cup pecan nut
meats broken in pieces, and one cup shredded cabbage. Moisten
with Cream Dressing, and serve in a salad bowl made of a small
white cabbage.

Banana Salad

Remove one section of skin from each of four bananas. Take out
fruit, scrape, and cut fruit from one banana in thin slices, fruit
from other three bananas in one-half inch cubes. Marinate cubes
with French Dressing. Refill skins and garnish each with slices of
banana. Stack around a mound of lettuce leaves.

Orange Salad

Cut five thin-skinned sour oranges in very thin slices, and slices in
quarters. Marinate with a dressing made by mixing one-third cup
olive oil, one and one-half tablespoons each lemon juice and
vinegar, one-third teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon paprika, and
a few grains mustard. Serve on a bed of watercress.

Orange Mint Salad

Remove pulp from four large oranges, by cutting fruit in halves
crosswise and using a spoon. Sprinkle with two tablespoons
powdered sugar, and add two tablespoons finely chopped mint,
and one tablespoon each lemon juice and Sherry wine. Chill
thoroughly, serve in glasses, and garnish each with a sprig of mint.
Should the oranges be very juicy, pour off a portion of the juice
before turning the mixture into glasses.

French Fruit Salad

2 oranges
12 English walnut meats
3 bananas
1 head lettuce
1/2 lb. Malaga grapes
French Dressing

Peel oranges, and remove pulp separately from each section. Peel
bananas, and cut in one-fourth inch slices. Remove skins and seeds
from grapes. Break walnut meats in pieces. Mix prepared
ingredients and arrange on lettuce leaves. Serve with French
Dressing.

Hungarian Salad

Mix equal parts shredded fresh pineapple, bananas cut in pieces,
and sections of tangerines, and marinate with French dressing. Fill
banana skins with mixture, sprinkle generously with paprika, and
arrange on lettuce leaves.

Waldorf Salad

Mix equal quantities of finely cut apple and celery, and moisten
with Mayonnaise Dressing. Garnish with curled celery and canned
pimentoes cut in strips or fancy shapes. An attractive way of
serving this salad is to remove tops from red or green apples,
scoop out inside pulp, leaving just enough adhering to skin to keep
apples in shape. Refill shells thus made with the salad, replace
tops, and serve on lettuce leaves.

Malaga Salad

Remove skins and seeds from white grapes; add an equal quantity
of English walnut meats, blanched and broken in pieces. Marinate
with French Dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves and garnish with
Maraschino cherries.

Brazilian Salad

Remove skin and seeds from white grapes and cut in halves
lengthwise. Add an equal quantity of shredded fresh pineapple,
apples pared, cored, and cut in small pieces, and celery cut in
small pieces; then add one-fourth the quantity of Brazil nuts
broken in pieces. Mix thoroughly, and season with lemon juice.
Moisten with Cream Mayonnaise Dressing .

De John's Salad

Pare six Bartlett pears, care being taken not to remove stems. Cut
in thin slices, and serve in original shapes on lettuce leaves. Serve
with French Dressing.

Pear Salad

Wipe, pare, and cut pears in eighths lengthwise; then remove
seeds. Arrange on lettuce leaves, pour over French dressing, and
garnish with ribbons of red pepper. See Canned Red Peppers p.
581.

Game Salad

Drain the syrup from one can peaches. Arrange halves of fruit on
lettuce leaves, and pour over all a dressing made by mixing two
teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon celery salt, one-fourth teaspoon salt,
one eighth teaspoon pepper, a few grains cayenne, five drops
Tabasco, and adding gradually four tablespoons olive oil and two
tablespoons fresh lime juice. Use fresh fruit when in season.

Pepper and Grape Fruit Salad

Cut slices from stem ends of six green peppers, and remove seeds.
Refill with grape fruit pulp, finely cut celery, and English walnut
meats broken in pieces, allowing twice as much grape fruit as
celery, and two nut meats to each pepper. Arrange on chicory or
lettuce leaves, and serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

Grape Fruit and Celery Salad

Cut medium-sized grape fruits in fourths lengthwise. Remove the
pulp, and add to it an equal quantity of finely cut celery. Refill
sections with mixture, mask with Mayonnaise Dressing, and
garnish with celery tips or curled celery and canned pimentoes cut
in strips.

Monte Carlo Salad

Remove pulp from four large grape fruits, and drain. Add an equal
quantity of finely cut celery, and apple cut in small pieces. Moisten
with Mayonnaise, pile on a shallow salad dish, arrange around a
border of lettuce leaves, and mask with Mayonnaise. Outline,
Using green Mayonnaise, four oblongs to represent playing cards,
and denote spots on cards by canned pimentoes or truffles;
pimentoes cut in shapes of hearts and diamonds, truffles cut in
shapes of spades and clubs. Garnish with cold cooked carrot and
turnip, shaped with a small round cutter to suggest gold and silver
coin.

Salmon Salad

Flake remnants of cold boiled salmon. Mix with French,
Mayonnaise, or Cream Dressing. Arrange on nests of lettuce
leaves. Garnish with the yolk of a "hard-boiled" egg forced through
a potato ricer, and white of egg cut in strips.

Shrimp Salad

Remove shrimps from can, cover with cold or ice water, and let
stand twenty minutes. Drain, dry between towels, remove
intestinal veins, and break in pieces, reserving six of the finest.
Moisten with Cream Dressing II, and arrange on nests of lettuce
leaves. Put a spoonful of dressing on each, and garnish with a
whole shrimp, capers, and an olive cut in quarters.

Sardine Salad

Remove skin and bones from sardines, and mix with an equal
quantity of the mashed yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs. Arrange in
nests of lettuce leaves and serve with Mayonnaise Dressing.

Lobster Salad I

Remove lobster meat from shell, cut in one-half inch cubes, and
marinate with a French Dressing. Mix with a small quantity of
Mayonnaise Dressing and arrange in nests of lettuce leaves. Put a
spoonful of Mayonnaise on each, and sprinkle with lobster coral
rubbed through a fine sieve. Garnish with small lobster claws
around outside of dish. Cream Dressing I or II may be used in
place of Mayonnaise Dressing.

Lobster Salad II

Prepare lobster as for Lobster Salad I. Add an equal quantity of
celery cut in small pieces, kept one hour in cold or ice water, then
drained and dried in a towel. Moisten with any cream or oil
dressing. Arrange on a salad dish, pile slightly in centre, cover
with dressing, sprinkle with lobster coral forced through a fine
sieve, and garnish with a border of curled celery and watercress.

To Curl Celery. Cut Thick stalks of celery in two-inch pieces.
With a sharp knife, beginning at outside of stalks, make five cuts
parallel with each other, extending one-third the length of pieces.
Make six cuts at right-angles to cuts already made. Put pieces in
cold or ice water and let stand over night or for several hours,
when they will curl back and celery will be found very crisp. Both
ends of celery may be curled if one cares to take the trouble.

Lobster Salad III

Remove large claws and split a lobster in two lengthwise by
beginning the cut on inside of tail end and cutting through entire
length of tail and body. Open lobster, remove tail meat, liver, and
coral, and set aside. Discard intestinal vein, stomach, and fat, and
wipe inside thoroughly with cloth wrung out of cold water. Body
meat and small claws are left on shell. Remove meat from upper
parts of large claws and cut off (using scissors or can opener)
one-half the shell from lowers parts, taking out meat and leaving
the parts in suitable condition to refill. Cut lobster meat in one-half
inch cubes and mix with an equal quantity of finely cut celery.
Season with salt, pepper, and vinegar, and moisten with
Mayonnaise Dressing. Refill tail, body, and under half of large
claw shells. Mix liver and coral, rob through a sieve, add one
tablespoon Mayonnaise Dressing and a few drops anchovy sauce
with enough more Mayonnaise Dressing to cover lobster already in
shell. Arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves.

Fish Salad with Cucumbers

Season one and one-half cups cold cooked flaked halibut,
haddock, or cod, with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice. Cover, and
let stand one hour. To Cream Dressing II add one-third tablespoon
granulated gelatine soaked in one and one-half tablespoons cold
water. As soon as dressing begins to thicken, add one-half cup
heavy cream beaten until stiff, then fold in the fish. Turn into
individual moulds, chill, remove from moulds, arrange on lettuce
leaves, garnish each with a thin slice of cucumber, and serve with.

Cucumber sauce. Pare two cucumbers, chop, drain off most of
liquor, and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar.

Crab and Tomato Salad

Remove meat from hard-shelled crabs; there should be one cup.
Add two-thirds cup celery, cut in small pieces, and six small
tomatoes peeled, chilled, and cut in quarters. Moisten with
Mayonnaise. Serve on lettuce leaves, and garnish with
Mayonnaise, curled celery, and small pieces of tomato.

Scallop and Tomato Salad

Clean one pint scallops, parboil, and drain. Add juice of one
lemon, cover, and let stand one hour. Drain, dry between towels,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and stale bread
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Cool, cut in
halves, marinate with dressing, and serve garnished with sliced
tomatoes and watercress.

Dressing. Mix one teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three-fourths
teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, two tablespoons lemon
juice, and four tablespoons olive oil.

Salmon a la Martin, Ravigte Mayonnaise

Drain one can salmon, rinse, dry, and separate in flakes. Moisten
with Ravigte Mayonnaise, arrange on a bed of lettuce, mask with
mayonnaise, and garnish with canned pimentoes cut in triangles,
and truffles cut in fancy shapes.

Ravigte Mayonnaise. Mix two tablespoons cooked spinach, one
tablespoon capers, one-half shallot finely chopped, three
anchovies, one-third cup parsley, and one-half cup watercress.
Pound in mortar until thoroughly macerated, then force through a
very fine strainer. Add to one-half the recipe for Mayonnaise
Dressing I .

Oyster and Grape Fruit Salad

Parboil one and one-half pints oysters, drain, cool, and remove
tough muscles. Cut three grape fruits in halves crosswise, remove
pulp, and drain. Mix oysters with pulp, and season with six
tablespoons tomato catsup, four tablespoons grape fruit juice, one
tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce, eight drops Tabasco sauce, and
one-half teaspoon salt. Refill grape fruit skins with mixture, and
garnish with curled celery.

Chicken Salad I

Cut cold boiled fowl or remnants of roast chicken in one-half inch
cubes, and marinate with French Dressing. Add an equal quantity
of celery, washed, scraped, cut in small pieces, chilled in cold or
ice-water, drained, and dried in a towel. Just before serving
moisten with Cream, Oil, or Mayonnaise Dressing. Mound on a
salad dish, and garnish with yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs forced
through a potato ricer, capers, and celery tips.
Chicken Salad II
Cut cold boiled fowl or remnants of roast chicken in one-half inch
dice. To two cups add one and one-half cups celery cut in small
pieces, and moisten with Cream Dressing II. Mound on a salad
dish, cover with dressing, and garnish with capers, thin slices cut
from small pickles, and curled celery.

Individual Chicken Salads in Aspic

Cover bottom of individual moulds set in ice-water with aspic jelly
mixture. When jelly is firm decorate with yolks and whites of
"hard-boiled" eggs cooked as for Harlequin Slices and truffles cut
in fancy shapes, or pistachio nuts blanched and cut in halves.
Cover decorations with aspic mixture, being careful not to
disarrange the designs. Finely chop cold cooked fowl (Preferably
breastmeat), moisten with Mayonnaise to which is added a small
quantity of dissolved granulated gelatine, shape in balls, put a ball
in each mould, and add gradually aspic mixture to fill moulds.
Chill thoroughly, remove to lettuce leaves, and arrange around a
dish of Mayonnaise Dressing.

Swiss Salad

Mix one cup cold cooked chicken cut in cubes, one cucumber
pared and cut in cubes, one cup chopped English walnut meats,
and one cup French Peas. Marinate with French Dressing, arrange
on serving dish, and garnish with Mayonnaise Dressing.

Nile Salad

Cut cold boiled or roasted chicken in cubes (there should be one
and one-half cups). Put one-half cup English walnut meats in pan,
sprinkle sparingly with salt, and add three-fourths tablespoon
butter. Cook in a slow oven until thoroughly heated, stirring
occasionally; remove from oven and break in pieces.

Mix chicken and nuts and marinate with French Dressing. Add
three-fourths cup celery cut in small pieces. Arrange on a bed of
lettuce, and mask with Ravigte Mayonnaise .

Berkshire Salad in Boxes

Marinate one cup cold boiled fowl cut into dice and one cup
cooked French chestnuts broken in pieces with French Dressing.
Add one finely chopped red pepper from which seeds have been
removed, one cup celery cut into small pieces, and Mayonnaise to
moisten. Trim crackers (four inches long by one inch wide, slightly
salted) at ends, using a sharp knife; arrange on plate in form of
box, keep in place with red ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten
at one corner by tying ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner
with a sprig of holly berries. Line box with lettuce leaves, put in a
spoonful of salad, and mask with Mayonnaise. Any colored ribbon
may be used, and flowers substituted for berries.

Chicken and Oyster Salad

Clean, parboil, and drain one pint oysters. Remove tough muscles,
and mix soft parts with an equal quantity of cold boiled fowl cut in
one-half inch dice. Moisten with any salad dressing, and serve on a
bed of lettuce leaves.

Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad I

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads twenty minutes; drain, cool, and cut
in one-half inch cubes. Mix with an equal quantity of cucumber
cut in one-half inch dice. Season with salt and pepper, and moisten
with German Dressing. Arrange in nests of lettuce leaves or in
cucumber cups, and garnish with watercress. To prepare cucumber
cups, pare cucumbers, remove thick slices from each end, and cut
in halves crosswise. Take out centres, put cups in cold water, and
let stand until crisp; drain, and dry for refilling. Small cucumbers
may be pared, cut in halves lengthwise, centres removed, and cut
pointed at ends to represent a boat.

Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad II

Parboil a sweetbread, adding to water a bit of bay leaf, a slice of
onion, and a blade of mace. Cool, and cut in small cubes; there
should be three-fourths cup. Add an equal quantity of cucumber
cubes. Beat one-half cup thick cream until stiff; add one-fourth
tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in one-half tablespoon cold
water and dissolved in one and one-half tablespoons boiling water,
then add one and one-half tablespoons vinegar. Add sweetbread
and cucumber season highly with salt and paprika, mould, and
chill. Arrange on lettuce leaves, and serve with French Dressing.

Sweetbread and Celery Salad

Mix equal parts of parboiled sweetbreads cut in one-half inch
cubes and celery finely cut. Moisten with Cream Dressing, and
arrange on lettuce leaves.

Harvard Salad

Make lemon baskets, following directions for Orange Baskets .
With a small wooden skewer make an incision in centre of each
handle and insert a small sprig of parsley. Fil baskets with equal
parts of cold cooked sweetbread and cucumber cut in small cubes,
and one-fourth the quantity of finely cut celery, moistened with
Cream Dressing II . Pare round red radishes as thinly as possible
and finely chop parings. Smooth top of baskets and cover with
dressing. Sprinkle top of one-half the baskets with chopped
parings, the remaining half with finely chopped parsley. Arrange
red and green baskets alternately on serving dish, and garnish with
watercress.

Chapter XXII. ENTREES.

Batters and Fritters

Batter I

1 cup bread flour
Few grains pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup milk
2 eggs

Mix flour, salt, and pepper. Add milk gradually, and eggs well
beaten.

Batter II

1 cup bread flour
2/3 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
White 1 egg

Mix flour, sugar, and salt. Add water gradually, then olive oil and
white of egg beaten until stiff.

Batter III

11/3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
2/3 cup milk
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and egg well
beaten.

Batter IV

1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup milk
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 egg

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and egg well
beaten.

Batter V

1 cup flour
Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
Whites 2 eggs
2/3 cup milk or water
1 tablespoon melted butter or olive oil

Mix salt and flour, add milk gradually, yolks of eggs beaten until
thick, butter, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff.

Apple Fritters I

2 medium-sized sour apples

Batter III

Powdered sugar

Pare, core, and cut apples in eighths, then cut eighths in slices, and
stir into batter. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep fat . Drain on
brown paper, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve hot on a
folded napkin.

Apple Fritters II

2 medium-sized sour apples
Batter IV

Prepare and cook as Apple Fritters I.

Apple Fritters III

Sour apples
Lemon juice
Powdered sugar
Batter II

Core, pare, and cut apples in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar and few drops lemon juice; cover, and let stand
one-half hour. Drain, dip pieces in batter, fry in deep fat, and
drain. Arrange on a folded napkin in form of a circle, and serve
with Sabyon or Hard Sauce.

Banana Fritters I

4 bananas
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
Powdered sugar
3 tablespoons Sherry wine
1/2 rule Batter V

Remove skins from bananas. Scrape bananas, cut in halves
lengthwise, and cut halves in two pieces crosswise. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar, lemon juice, and wine; cover, and let stand thirty
minutes; drain, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown
paper. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve on a folded
napkin.

Banana Fritters II

3 bananas
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup bread flour
1/4 cup milk
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Beat egg until light, add milk, and
combine mixtures; then add lemon juice and banana fruit forced
through a sieve. Drop by spoonfuls, fry in deep fat, and drain.
Serve with Lemon Sauce.

Orange Fritters
Peel two oranges and separate into sections. Make an opening in
each section just large enough to admit of passage for seeds, which
should be removed. Dip sections in Batter II, III, IV, or V, and fry
and serve same as other fritters.

Fruit Fritters

Fresh peaches, apricots, or pears may be cut in pieces, dipped in
batter, and fried same as other fritters. Canned fruits may be used,
after draining from their syrup.

Cauliflower Fritters

Cold cooked cauliflower
Batter V
Salt and pepper

Sprinkle pieces of cauliflower with salt and pepper and dip in
Batter I or V. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Fried Celery

Celery cut in three-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
Batter I, III, or V

Parboil celery until soft, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in
batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with
Tomato Sauce.

Sardines Fried in Batter

Drain fish and pour over boiling water to free from oil, then
remove skins. Dip in Batter III, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown
paper. Serve with Hot Tartare Sauce.

Tomato Fritters

1 can tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
6 cloves
Few grains cayenne
1/8 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter
3 slices onion
1/2 cup corn-starch
1 egg

Cook first four ingredients twenty minutes, rub all through a sieve
except seeds, and season with salt and pepper. Melt butter, and
when bubbling, add corn-starch and tomato gradually; cook two
minutes, then add egg slightly beaten. Pour into a buttered shallow
tin, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or strips.
Roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Cherry Fritters

2 cups scalded milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup corn-starch
1/4 cup cold milk
1/4 cup flour
Yolks 3 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup Maraschino cherries, cut in halves

Mix corn-starch, flour, sugar, and salt. Dilute with cold milk and
add beaten yolks; then add gradually to scalded milk and cook
fifteen minutes in double boiler. Add cherries, pour into a buttered
shallow tin, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, dip in flour,
egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Maraschino
Sauce.

Maraschino Sauce

2/3 cup boiling water
1/4 cup Maraschino cherries, cut in halves
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons corn-starch
1/2 cup Maraschino syrup
1/2 tablespoon butter

Mix sugar and corn-starch, add gradually to boiling water, stirring
constantly. Boil five minutes, and add cherries, syrup, and butter.

Farina Cakes with Jelly

2 cups scalded milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup farina (scant)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg

Mix farina, sugar, and salt, add to milk, and cook in double boiler
twenty minutes, stirring constantly until mixture has thickened.
Add egg slightly beaten, pour into a buttered shallow pan, and
brush over with one egg slightly beaten and diluted with one
tablespoon milk. Brown in a moderate oven. Cut in squares, and
serve with a cube of jelly on each square.

Gnocchi a la Romana

1/4 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup flour
2 cups scalded milk
1/4 cup corn-starch
Yolks 2 eggs
3/4 cup grated cheese

Melt butter, and when bubbling, add flour, corn-starch, salt, and
milk, gradually. Cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add yolks
of eggs slightly beaten, and one-half cup cheese. Pour into a
buttered shallow pan, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares,
diamonds, or strips. Place on a platter, sprinkle with remaining
cheese, and brown in oven.

Queen Fritters

1/4 cup butter (scant)
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup boiling water
2 eggs

Fruit preserve or marmalade

Put butter in small saucepan and pour on water. As soon as water
again reaches boiling-point, add flour all at once and stir until
mixture leaves sides of saucepan, cleaving to spoon. Remove from
fire and add eggs unbeaten, one at a time, beating mixture
thoroughly between addition of eggs. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in
deep fat until well puffed and browned. Drain, make an opening,
and fill with preserve or marmalade. Sprinkle with powdered sugar
and serve on a folded napkin.

Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce

Make Queen Fritters, fill with Chocolate Cream Filling, and serve
with Vanilla Sauce; filling to be cold and sauce warm.

Coffee Fritters, Coffee Cream Sauce

Cut stale bread in one-half inch slices, remove crusts, and cut
slices in one-half inch strips. Mix three-fourths cup coffee
infusion, two tablespoons sugar, one-fourth cup teaspoon salt, one
egg slightly beaten, and one-fourth cup cream. Dip bread in
mixture, crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. Fry in deep fat and drain.
Serve with

Coffee Cream Sauce. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add four
tablespoons sugar and one-eighth teaspoon salt, then add gradually
one cup coffee infusion. Cook in double boiler until mixture
thickens. Cool, and fold in one-third cup heavy cream beaten until
stiff.

Sponge Fritters

22/3 cups flour
1/3 cup melted butter
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
7/8 cup scalded milk
2 eggs
1/3 yeast cake, dissolved in 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
Quince marmalade

Currant jelly

Make a sponge of one-half the flour; sugar, milk, and dissolved
yeast cake; let rise to double its bulk. Add remaining ingredients
and let rise again. Toss on a floured board, roll to one-fourth inch
thickness, shape with a small biscuit cutter (first dipped in flour),
cover, and let rise on board. Take each piece and hollow in centre
to form a nest. In one-half the pieces put one-half teaspoon of
currant jelly and quince marmalade mixed in the proportion of one
part jelly to two parts marmalade. Brush with milk edges of filled
pieces. Cover with unfilled pieces and press edges closely together
with fingers first dipped in flour. If this is not carefully done
fritters will separate during frying. Fry in deep fat, drain on brown
paper, and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Calf's Brains Fritters

Clean brains, and cook twenty minutes in boiling water, to which
is added one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, three
cloves, two slices onion, and one-half bay leaf. Remove from
range, and let stand in water until cold; drain, dry between towels,
and separate into pieces. Make a better of one-half cup flour, one
teaspoon baking powder, one-fourth cup salt, a few grains pepper,
one egg well beaten, and one-fourth cup milk. Add brains, and
drop mixture by spoonfuls into greased muffin rings, placed in a
frying-pan in which there is a generous supply of hot lard. Cook on
one side until well browned, turn, and cook other side. Arrange on
serving dish and pour around Sauce Finiste .

Clam Fritters

1 pint clams
11/3 cups flour
2 eggs
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup milk
Salt
Pepper

Clean clams, drain from their liquor, and chop. Beat eggs until
light, add milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder,
then add chopped clams, and season highly with salt and pepper.
Drop by spoonfuls, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper, and
serve at once on a folded napkin.

Croquettes

Before making Croquettes, consult Rules for Testing Fat for
Frying, Egging and Crumbing, Uses for Stale Bread, and Potato
Croquettes.

Banana Croquettes

Remove skins from bananas, scrape, using a silver knife to remove
the astringent principle which lies close to skin, and cut in halves
crosswise; then remove a slice from each end. Dip in crumbs, egg,
and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Cheese Croquettes

3 tablespoons butter
1 cup mild cheese, cut in very small cubes
1/4 cup flour
2/3 cup milk
1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper
Few grains cayenne

Make a thick white sauce, using butter, flour, and milk, add yolks
of eggs without first beating, and stir until well mixed; then add
grated cheese. As soon as cheese melts, remove from fire, fold in
cheese cubes, and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Spread in
a shallow pan, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in small squares or
strips, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and
drain on brown paper. Serve for a cheese course.

Chestnut Croquettes

1 cup mashed French chestnuts
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons thick cream
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Mix ingredients in order given. Shape in balls, dip in crumbs, egg,
and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Chestnut Roulettes

1 cup chestnut puree
2 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Few drops onion juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains paprika

Mix ingredients in order given, cook two minutes, and cool. Shape
a little larger than French chestnuts, dip in crumbs, egg, and
crumbs again. Fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Lenten Croquettes
Soak one-half cup lentils and one-fourth cup dried lima beans over
night, in cold water to cover; drain, add three pints water, one-half
small onion, one stalk celery, three slices carrot, and a sprig of
parsley. Cook until lentils are soft, remove seasonings, drain, and
rub through a sieve. To pulp add one-half cup stale bread crumbs,
one egg slightly beaten, and salt and pepper to taste. Melt one
tablespoon butter, add one tablespoon flour, and pour on gradually
one-third cup hot cream; combine mixtures, and cool. Shape, dip
in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain on
brown paper. Serve with Tomato Sauce I.

Rice Croquettes with Jelly

1/2 cup rice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup boiling water
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup scalded milk
1 tablespoon butter

Wash rice, add to water with salt, cover, and steam until rice has
absorbed water. Then add milk, stir lightly with a fork, cover, and
steam until rice is soft. Remove from fire, add egg yolks and
butter; spread on a shallow plate to cool. Shape in balls, roll in
crumbs, fry then shape in form of nests. Dip in egg, again in
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Put a cube of jelly in each
croquette. Arrange on a folded napkin, and garnish with parsley, or
serve around game.

Sweet Rice Croquettes

To rice croquette mixture add two tablespoons powdered sugar
and grated rind one-half lemon. Shape in cylinder forms, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Rice and Tomato Croquettes

1/2 cup rice
2 cloves
3/4 cup stock
1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
1/2 can tomatoes
1 teaspoon sugar
1 slice onion
1 egg
1 slice carrot
1/4 cup grated cheese
1 sprig parsley
1 tablespoon butter
1 sprig thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Wash rice, and steam in stock until rice has absorbed stock; then
add tomatoes which have been cooked twenty minutes with onion,
carrot, parsley, thyme, cloves, peppercorns, and sugar, and then
rubbed through a strainer. Remove from fire add egg slightly
beaten, cheese, butter, salt, and cayenne. Spread on a plate to cool.
Shape in form of cylinders, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again,
fry in deep fat, and drain.

Oyster Crabs a la Newburg

1 cup oyster crabs
Salt
1 cup mushroom caps
Cayenne
1/3 cup Sherry wine
Nutmeg
1/4 cup butter
3/4 cup cream
1 tablespoon flour
Yolks two eggs
1 tablespoon brandy

Peel mushroom caps and break in pieces. Add oyster crabs and
wine, cover, and let stand one hour. Melt butter, add first mixture,
and cook eight minutes. Add flour, and cook two minutes. Season
with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg; then add heavy cream. Just before
serving add egg yolks, slightly beaten, and brandy.

Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes

1/3 cup macaroni, broken in 1/2 inch pieces
Few grains cayenne
Few grains mace
1 pint oysters
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1 cup Thick White Sauce
1/4 cup grated cheese.

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft, drain in a
colander, and pour over macaroni two cups cold water. Clean and
parboil oysters, remove tough muscles, and cut soft parts in pieces.
Reserve one-half cup oyster liquor and use in making Thick White
Sauce in place of all milk. Mix macaroni and oysters, add Thick
White Sauce and seasonings. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape, dip
in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, again, fry in deep fat, and drain.

Oysters a la Somerset

1 pint selected oysters
1/3 cup oyster liquor
1 tablespoon chopped onion
1/3 cup Chicken Stock
2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
Salt
Pepper
3 tablespoons butter
Cayenne
4 tablespoons flour

Parboil and drain oysters. Reserve liquor, strain, and set aside for
sauce. Cook onion and mushroom in butter five minutes, add flour,
and pour on gradually oyster liquor and chicken stock. Season with
salt, pepper, and cayenne. Remove tough muscles from oysters,
and discard. Shape oysters, cover with sauce, and coll on a plate
covered with stale bread crumbs. Dip in egg and stale bread
crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper.

Salmon Croquettes

13/4 cups cold flaked salmon
Few grains cayenne
1 cup Thick White Sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt

Add sauce to salmon, then add seasonings. Spread on a plate to
cool. Shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat,
and drain.

Salmon Cutlets

Mix equal parts of cold flaked salmon and hot mashed potatoes.
Season with salt and pepper. Shape in form of cutlets, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Arrange
in a circle, having cutlets overlap one another, on a folded napkin.
Garnish with parsley.

Lobster Croquettes

2 cups chopped lobster meat
Few grains cayenne
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon
1/4 teaspoon mustard
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Add seasonings to lobster, then add Thick White Sauce. Cool,
shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and
drain. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce.

Lobster Cutlets

2 cups chopped lobster meat
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
Yolk 1 egg
Few grains cayenne
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Few gratings nutmeg
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Mix ingredients in order given, and cool. Shape in form of cutlets,
crumb, and fry same as croquettes. Make a cut at small end of each
cutlet, and insert in each the tip end of a small claw. Stack around
a mound of parsley. Serve with Sauce Tartare.

Beef and Rice Croquettes

1 cup chopped beef (cut from top of round)
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Few grains cayenne
1/3 cup rice
Cabbage
1/2 teaspoon salt
Tomato Sauce

Mix beef and rice, and add salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook
cabbage leaves two minutes in boiling water to cover. In each leaf
put two tablespoons mixture, and fold leaf to enclose mixture.
Cook one hour in Tomato Sauce.

Tomato Sauce. Brown four tablespoons butter, add five
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups
each Brown Stock and stewed and strained tomatoes. Add one
slice onion, one slice carrot, a bit of bay leaf, a sprig of parsley,
four cloves, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon
pepper, and a few grains cayenne. Cook ten minutes, and strain.

Lamb Croquettes

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 cup cold cooked lamb, cut in small cubes
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup boiled potato cubes
1/4 cup flour
Salt and pepper
1 cup stock
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley

Fry onion in butter five minutes, then remove onion. To butter add
flour and stock, and cook two minutes. Add meat, potato, salt, and
pepper. Simmer until meat and potato have absorbed sauce. Add
parsley, and spread on a shallow dish to cool. Shape, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve
with Tomato Sauce.

Veal Croquettes

2 cups chopped cold cooked veal
Few grains cayenne
1/2 teaspoon salt
Few drops onion juice
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Yolk 1 egg
1 cup thick sauce made of White Soup Stock

Mix ingredients in order given. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same
as other croquettes.

Chicken Croquettes I

13/4 cups chopped cold cooked fowl
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Few drops onion juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon celery salt
Few grains cayenne
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Mix ingredients in order given. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same
as other croquettes.

White meat of fowl absorbs more sauce than dark meat. This must
be remembered if dark meat alone is used. Croquette mixtures
should always be as soft as can be conveniently handled, when
croquettes will be soft and creamy inside.

Chicken Croquettes II

Clean and dress a four-pound fowl. Put into a kettle with six cups
boiling water, seven slices carrot, two slices turnip, one small
onion, one stalk celery, one bay leaf, and three sprigs thyme. Cook
slowly until fowl is tender. Remove fowl; strain liquor, cool, and
skim off fat. Make a thick sauce, using one-fourth cup butter,
one-half cup flour, one cup chicken stock, and one-third cup
cream. Remove meat from chicken, chop, and moisten with sauce.
Season with salt, cayenne, and slight grating of nutmeg; then add
one beaten egg, cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other
croquettes. Arrange around a mound of green peas, and serve with
Cream Sauce or Wine Jelly.

Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes

Make as Chicken Croquettes I, using one and one-third cups
chicken meat and two-thirds cup chopped mushrooms.

Maryland Croquettes

Season one cup chopped cold cooked fowl with salt, celery salt,
cayenne, lemon juice, and onion juice; moisten with sauce, and
cool. Parboil one pint selected oysters, drain, and cover each oyster
with chicken mixture. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs; fry in deep
fat, and drain.

Sauce. Melt one and one-half tablespoons butter, add three
tablespoons flour, and gradually one-third cup oyster liquor and
two tablespoons cream. Season with salt and cayenne.

Lincoln Croquettes

Mix one cup each bread crumbs, walnut meats cut in pieces, and
cold cooked chicken cut in cubes. Moisten with a sauce made by
melting one and one-half tablespoons butter, adding one and
one-half tablespoons flour, and pouring on gradually, while stirring
constantly, one-half cup chicken stock. Season with salt, celery
salt, paprika, nutmeg, and Sherry wine. Shape in balls, dip in
crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown
paper. Serve with a sauce made of one-half chicken stock and
one-half cream and flavored with Sherry wine.

Cutlets of Sweetbreads a la Victoria

2 pairs parboiled sweetbreads
Slight grating nutmeg
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 egg
1 cup Thick White Sauce

Chop the sweetbreads, of which there should be two cups; if not
enough, add chopped mushrooms to make two cups, then season.
Add egg, slightly beaten, to sauce, and combine mixtures. Cool,
shape, crumb, and fry. Make a cut in small end of each cutlet, and
insert in each a piece of cold boiled macaroni one and one-half
inches long. Serve with Allemande Sauce.

Epigrams of Sweetbreads

Parboil a sweetbread, drain, place in a small mould, cover, and
press with a weight. Cut in one-half inch slices, and spread with
the following mixture: Fry one-third teaspoon finely chopped
shallot in one and one-half tablespoons butter three minutes, add
three tablespoons chopped mushrooms, and cook three minutes;
then add two and one-half tablespoons flour, one-half cup stock,
two tablespoons cream, one tablespoon Sherry wine, one egg yolk,
and salt and pepper to taste. Cool, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs,
fry in deep fat, and drain.

Swedish Timbales

3/4 cup flour
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil

Mix dry ingredients, add milk gradually, and egg slightly beaten;
then add olive oil. Shape, using a hot timbale iron, fry in deep fat
until crisp and brown; take from iron and invert on brown paper to
drain.

To Heat Timbale Iron. Heat fat until nearly hot enough to fry
uncooked mixtures. Put iron into hot fat, having fat deep enough to
more than cover it, and let stand until heated. The only way of
knowing when iron is of right temperature is to take it from fat,
shake what fat may drip from it, lower in batter to three-fourths its
depth, raise from batter, then immerse in hot fat. If batter does not
cling to iron, or drops from iron as soon as immersed in fat, it is
either too hot or not sufficiently heated.

To Form Timbales. Turn timbale batter into a cup. Lower hot iron
into cup, taking care that batter covers iron to only three-fourths its
depth. When immersed in fat, mixture will rise to top of iron, and
when crisp and brown may be easily slipped off. If too much batter
is used, in cooking it will rise over top of iron, and in order to
remove timbale it must be cut around with a sharp knife close to
top of iron. If the cases are soft rather than crisp, batter is too thick
and must be diluted with milk.

Fill cases with Creamed Oysters, Chicken, Sweetbreads, or
Chicken and Sweetbreads in combination with Mushrooms.

Bunuelos

Use recipe for and fry same as Swedish Timbales, using a
Bunuelos iron. Serve with cooked fruit and with or without
whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

Strawberry Baskets

Fry Swedish Timbales, making cases one inch deep. Fill with
selected strawberries, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Serve as a
first course at a ladies' luncheon.

Rice Timbales

Pack hot boiled rice in slightly buttered small tin moulds. Let stand
in hot water ten minutes. Use as a garnish for curried meat,
fricassee, or boiled fowl.

Macaroni Timbales

Line slightly buttered Dario moulds with boiled macaroni. Cut
strips the length of height of mould, and place closely together
around inside of mould. Fill with Chicken, or Salmon Force-meat.
Put in a pan, half surround with hot water, cover with buttered
paper, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with
Lobster, Bechamel, or Hollandaise Sauce I.

Spaghetti Timbales

Line bottom and sides of slightly buttered Dario moulds with long
strips of boiled spaghetti coiled around the inside. Fill and bake
same as Macaroni Timbales.

Pimento Timbales

Line small timbale moulds with canned pimentoes. Fill with
Chicken Timbale II mixture , and bake until firm. Remove from
moulds, insert a sprig of parsley in top of each, and serve with

Brown Mushroom Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
1/2 lb. mushrooms
Few drops onion juice
1 teaspoon beef extract
31/2 tablespoons flour
Salt
1 cup cream
Paprika

Melt butter, add onion juice, and cook until slightly browned; then
add flour and continue the browning. Pour on, gradually, while
stirring constantly, the cream. Clean mushrooms, peal caps, cut in
slices lengthwise, and saute in butter five minutes. Break stems in
pieces, cover with cold water, and cook slowly until liquor is
reduced to one-third cup; then strain. Dissolve beef extract in
mushroom liquor. Add to sauce, and season with salt and paprika.
Just before serving, add sauted caps.

Halibut Timbales I

1 lb. halibut
Few grains cayenne
1/3 cup thick cream
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
3/4 teaspoon salt
Whites 3 eggs

Cook halibut in boiling salted water, drain, and rub through a
sieve. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice; add cream
beaten until stiff, then beaten whites of eggs. Turn into small,
slightly buttered moulds, put in a pan, half surround with hot
water, cover with buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven. Remove from moulds, arrange on a serving dish,
pour around Bechamel Sauce or Lobster Sauce II, and garnish with
parsley.

Halibut Timbales II

1 lb. halibut
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2/3 cup milk
Few grains cayenne
Yolk 1 egg
2/3 teaspoon corn-starch
11/4 teaspoons salt
1/3 cup thick cream

Force fish twice through a meat chopper, then rub through a sieve.
Add yolk of egg, seasonings, corn-starch, milk, gradually, and
cream beaten until stiff. Cook same as Halibut Timbales I and
serve with Cream or Lobster Sauce.

Lobster Timbales I

Sprinkle slightly buttered Dario or timbale moulds with lobster
coral rubbed through a strainer. Line moulds with Fish Force-meat
I, fill centres with Creamed Lobster, and cover with force-meat.
Put in a pan, half surround with hot water, place over moulds
buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve
with Lobster or Bechamel Sauce.

Lobster Timbales II

2 lb. live lobster
2 eggs
1/4 cup stale bread crumbs
Sherry wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper

Split lobster, remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach. Crack
claw shells with mallet, then remove all meat, scraping as close to
shell as possible to obtain the color desired. Force meat through a
sieve, add bread crumbs, cream, eggs slightly beaten, and salt,
pepper, and Sherry wine to taste. Fill small timbale moulds
two-thirds full, place in iron frying-pan, and pour in boiling water
to two-thirds the depths of the moulds. Place over moulds buttered
paper and cook on the range until firm, keeping water below the
boiling-point. Remove from moulds and serve with Hot
Mayonnaise .

Lobster Cream I

2 lb. lobster
2 teaspoons Anchovy sauce
1/2 cup soft stale bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup cream
Whites 3 eggs

Remove lobster meat from shell and chop finely. Cook bread and
milk ten minutes. Add cream, seasonings, and whites of eggs
beaten until stiff. Turn into one slightly buttered timbale mould
and two slightly buttered Dario moulds. Bake as Lobster Timbales.
Remove to serving dish, having larger mould in centre, smaller
moulds one at either end. Pour around Lobster Sauce I, sprinkle
with coral rubbed through a sieve, and garnish with pieces of
lobster shell from tail, and parsley.

Lobster Cream II

1 cup chopped lobster meat
Few drops onion juice
1 tablespoon butter
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon flour
1/3 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon paprika
White one egg, beaten stiff

Cook lobster meat with butter five minutes. Add flour, seasonings,
egg yolks, milk, cream beaten until stiff, and white of egg. Fill
buttered timbale moulds three-fourths full, set in pan of hot water,
cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with Lobster
Sauce.

Chicken Timbales I

Garnish slightly buttered Dario moulds with chopped truffles or
slices of truffles cut in fancy shapes. Line with Chicken
Force-meat I, fill centres with Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms,
to which has been added a few chopped truffles. Cover with
Force-meat, and bake same as Lobster Timbales Serve with
Bechamel or Yellow Bechamel Sauce.

Chicken Timbales II

2 tablespoons butter
1/2 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/4 cup stale bread crumbs
2/3 cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup chopped cooked chicken
Salt
Pepper

Melt butter, add bread crumbs and milk, and cook five minutes,
stirring constantly. Add chicken, parsley, and eggs slightly beaten.
Season with salt and pepper. Turn into buttered individual moulds,
having moulds two-thirds full set in pan of hot water, cover with
buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes. Serve with Bechamel
Sauce.

Chicken Timbales III

Soak one-half tablespoon granulated gelatine in one and one-half
tablespoons cold water, and dissolve in three-fourths cup chicken
stock. Add one cup chopped cooked chicken, and stir until the
mixture begins to thicken, then add one cup cream beaten until
thick. Add one tablespoon Sherry wine and a few grains cayenne.
Mould, chill, and serve on lettuce leaves.

Ham Timbales

Make and bake same as Chicken Timbales II, using chopped
cooked ham in place of chicken. Serve with Bechamel Sauce.

Sweetbread and Mushroom Timbales

Cook two tablespoons butter with one sliced onion five minutes.
Add one and one-half cups mushroom caps finely chopped, and
one small parboiled sweetbread, finely chopped; then add one cup
White Sauce II, one-fourth cup stale bread crumbs, one red pepper
chopped, one-half teaspoon salt, yolks two eggs, well beaten, and
whites two eggs, beaten until stiff. Fill buttered timbale moulds,
set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake fifteen
minutes. Remove to serving dish and pour around

Mushroom Sauce. Clean five large mushroom caps, cut in halves
crosswise, then in slices. Saute in three tablespoons butter five
minutes; dredge with two tablespoons flour, add one-third cup
cream and one cup chicken stock, and cook two minutes. Season
with salt and paprika, and add one chopped truffle.

Sweetbread Mousse

Parboil a sweetbread ten minutes, chop, and rub through sieve;
there should be one-half cup. Mix with one-third cup breast meat
of a raw chicken, and rub through sieve. Pound in mortar, add
gradually white of one egg, and work until smooth, then add
three-fourths cup heavy cream. Line buttered timbale moulds with
mixture, fill centres, cover with mixture, place in a pan of hot
water, cover with buttered paper and bake until firm. Remove to
serving dish, and pour around sauce.

Filling. Melt one tablespoon butter, add one tablespoon
corn-starch, and pour on gradually one-fourth cup White Stock;
then add one-third cup parboiled sweetbread cut in cubes, one
tablespoon Sherry wine, and salt and pepper to taste.

Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour,
and pour on one cup rich chicken stock and one-half cup heavy
cream. Season with one tablespoon Sherry wine, one-fourth
teaspoon beef extract, and salt and pepper to taste.


Suprme of Chicken

Breast and second joints of uncooked chicken weighing 4 lbs.
4 eggs
11/3 cups thick cream
Salt and pepper

Force chicken through a meat chopper, or chop very finely. Beat
eggs separately, add one at a time, stirring until mixture is smooth.
Add cream, and season with salt and pepper. Turn into slightly
buttered Dario moulds, and bake same as Lobster Timbales,
allowing thirty minutes for baking. Serve with Suprme or
Bechamel Sauce.

Devilled Oysters

1 pint oysters
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup milk
Few grains cayenne
Yolk 1 egg
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Buttered cracker crumbs

Clean, drain, and slightly chop oysters. Make a sauce of butter,
flour, and milk; add egg yolk, seasonings, and oysters. Arrange
buttered scallop shells in a dripping-pan, half fill with mixture,
cover with buttered crumbs, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in
a hot oven. Deep oyster shells may be used in place of scallop
shells.

Crab meat, Indienne

2 tablespoons butter
2/3 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
1 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup crab meat
Salt

Cook butter with onion three minutes, add flour mixed with curry
powder and chicken stock. When boiling-point is reached add crab
meat and season with salt.

Devilled Crabs

1 cup chopped crab meat
Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 cup mushrooms, finely chopped
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour
2/3 cup White Stock
Salt and pepper

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and stock; add yolks of eggs,
seasonings (except parsley), crab meat, and mushrooms. Cook
three minutes, add parsley, and cool mixture. Wash and trim crab
shells, fill rounding with mixture, sprinkle with stale bread crumbs
mixed with a small quantity of melted butter. Crease on top with a
case knife, having three lines parallel with each other across shell
and three short lines branching from outside parallel lines. Bake
until crumbs are brown.

Devilled Scallops

1 quart scallops
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup butter
Few grains cayenne
1/3 teaspoon made mustard
2/3 cup buttered cracker crumbs

Clean scallops, drain, and heat to the boiling-point; drain again,
and reserve liquor. Cream the butter, add mustard, salt, cayenne,
two-thirds cup reserved liquor, and scallops chopped. Let stand
one-half hour. Put in a baking-dish, cover with crumbs, and bake
twenty minutes.

Fried Oyster Crabs

Wash and drain crabs. Roll in flour, and shake in a sieve to remove
superfluous flour. Fry in a basket in deep fat, having fat same
temperature as for cooked mixtures. Drain, and place on a napkin,
and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with Sauce
Tyrolienne.

Bouchees of Oyster Crabs

Pick over oyster crabs, dip in flour, cold milk, and crumbs, fry in
deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Fill bouchee cases with crabs.

Halibut Marguerites

Line a buttered tablespoon with Fish Force-meat II. Fill with
Creamed Lobster, cover with force-meat, and garnish with
force-meat, forced through a pastry bag and tube, in the form of a
marguerite, having the centre colored yellow. Slip from spoon into
boiling water, and cook eight minutes. Serve with Bechamel or
Lobster Sauce.

Cromesquis a la Russe

Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour
on gradually one-half cup milk; then add one-half cup finnan
haddie which has been parboiled, drained, and separated into small
pieces. Season with cayenne, and spread on a plate to cool. Cut
French pancakes in pieces two by four inches. On lower halves of
pieces put one tablespoon mixture. Brush edges with beaten egg,
fold over upper halves, press edges firmly together, dip in crumbs,
egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve garnished with
parsley.

French Pancakes. To one-fourth cup bread flour add one-third cup
milk, one egg, and one-fourth teaspoon salt; beat thoroughly. Heat
an omelet pan, butter generously, cover bottom of pan with
mixture, cook until browned on one side, turn, and cook on other
side.

Shad Roe with Celery

Clean a shad roe, cook in boiling, salted, acidulated water twenty
minutes, and drain. Plunge into cold water, drain, remove
membrane, and separate roe into pieces. Melt three tablespoons
butter, add roe, and cook ten minutes; then add one tablespoon
butter, one-half cup chopped celery, few drops each onion and
lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Serve on pieces of toasted bread.

Stuffed Clams

Cover bottom of dripping-pan with rock salt. Arrange two quarts
large-sized soft-shelled clams on salt, in such a manner that liquor
will not run into pan as clam shells open. As soon as shells begin
to open, remove clams from shells, and chop. Reserve liquor,
strain, and use in making a thick sauce (follow directions for thick
White Sauce for Croquettes, p. 266), making one-half rule, and
using one-fourth cup each clam liquor and cream. Season highly
with lemon juice and cayenne. Moisten clams with sauce, fill
shells, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with buttered soft stale
bread crumbs, and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.

Crab Meat, Terrapin Style

1 cup crab meat
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/2 small onion, thinly sliced
Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and cayenne

Cook butter and onion until yellow; remove onion, add crab meat
and wine. Cook three minutes, add cream, yolks of eggs, salt, and
cayenne.

Mock Crabs

4 tablespoons butter
11/2 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup flour
1 can Kornlet
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 egg
3/4 teaspoon mustard
3 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 cup buttered cracker crumbs

Melt butter, add flour mixed with dry seasonings, and pour on
gradually the milk. Add Kornlet, egg slightly beaten, and
Worcestershire Sauce. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, cover with
crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Martin's Specialty

1/2 tablespoon onion (finely chopped)
Stock
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg yolk
1 cup chopped cooked chicken or veal
Salt and pepper
1 cup soft bread crumbs
Lettuce

Cook onion in butter three minutes. Add meat and bread crumbs,
moisten with stock, and add egg yolk and seasonings. Wrap in
lettuce leaves, allowing two tablespoons mixture to each portion.
Tie in cheese-cloth and steam. Remove to serving dish and pour
around Tomato Sauce.
Sweetbread Ramequins
Clean and parboil a sweetbread and cut in cubes. Melt two
tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on
gradually one cup chicken stock. Reheat sweetbread in sauce and
add one-fourth cup heavy cream and one and one-half teaspoons
beef extract. Season with salt, paprika, and lemon juice. Fill
ramequin dishes, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until
crumbs are brown.

Sweetbread a la Mont Vert

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, and gash. Decorate in gashes with
truffles cut in thin slices, and slice in fancy shapes. Melt three
tablespoons butter, add two slices onion, six slices carrot, and
sweetbreads; fry five minutes. Pour off butter, and add one-fourth
cup brown stock and two tablespoons Sherry wine. Cook in oven
twenty-five minutes, basting often until well glazed. Serve in nests
of peas, and pour around Mushroom Sauce.

Nests. Drain and rinse one can peas, and rub through a sieve. Add
three tablespoons butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Heat to
boiling-point, and shape in nests, using pastry bag and tube.

Mushroom Sauce. Clean three large mushroom caps, cut in halves
crosswise, then in slices. Saute in two tablespoons butter five
minutes. Dredge with one tablespoon flour, and add one cup cream
and liquor left in pan in which sweetbreads were cooked. Cook
two minutes.

Sweetbread in Peppers

Parboil sweetbread, cool, and cut in small pieces; there should be
one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour,
and pour on gradually one-half cup chicken stock; then add two
tablespoons heavy cream, and one-third cup mushroom caps
broken in small pieces. Season with salt, paprika, and
Worcestershire Sauce. Cut a slice from stem end of six peppers,
remove seeds, and parboil peppers five minutes. Cool, fill, cover
with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Break
stems of mushrooms, cover with cold water, and cook slowly
twenty minutes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add a few drops
onion juice, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the water
drained from mushroom stems, and enough chicken stock to make
one cup. Add one-fourth cup heavy cream, and season with salt
and paprika. Pour sauce around peppers. When parboiling peppers
add one-fourth teaspoon soda to water.

Cutlets of Chicken

Remove fillets from two chickens; for directions, see page 245.
Make six parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet and
insert in each a slice of truffle, having the part of truffle exposed
cut in points on edge. Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Garnish
with truffles cut in small shapes, and Chicken Force-meat forced
through a pastry bag and tube. Place in a greased pan, add
one-third cup White Stock, cover with buttered paper, and bake
fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with Suprme or Bechamel
Sauce.

Fillets of Game

Remove skin from breasts of three partridges. Cut off breasts,
leaving wing joints attached. Separate large from mignon fillets.
Make five parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet, and
insert in each a slice of truffle, having part of truffle exposed cut in
points on edge. Beginning at outer edge of large fillets make deep
cuts, nearly separating fillets in two parts, and stuff with Chicken
Force-meat I or II. Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Place in a
greased baking-pan, brush over with butter, add one tablespoon
Madeira wine and two tablespoons mushroom liquor. Cover with
buttered paper, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven. Serve with
Suprme Sauce.

Chicken Cutlets

Remove fillets from two chickens; for directions, see page 245.
Dip each in thick cream, roll in flour, and saute in lard three
minutes. Place in a pan, dot over with butter, and bake ten
minutes. Serve with White Sauce I, to which is added one
tablespoon meat extract.

Russian Cutlets

Cover bottom of cutlet moulds with Russian Pilaf and cover Pilaf
with Chicken Force-meat II , doubling the recipe and omitting
nutmeg. Set moulds in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper,
and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Remove from
moulds to serving dish, surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce,
and garnish with parsley.

Russian Pilaf. Wash one-half cup rice. Mix one cup highly
seasoned chicken stock with three-fourths cup stewed and strained
tomato, and heat to boiling-point. Add rice, and steam until rice is
soft. Add two tablespoons butter, stirring lightly with a fork that
kernels may not be broken, and season with salt.

Brown Mushroom Sauce

3 tablespoons butter
11/4 cups brown stock
1 slice carrot
1/2 lb. mushrooms
1 slice onion
1 cup cold water
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped
1 teaspoon beef extract
Salt
5 tablespoons flour
Pepper

Cook butter with vegetables and ham until brown, add flour, and
when well browned add stock, gradually, then strain. Clean
mushroom stems, break in pieces, cover with water, and cook
slowly until stock is reduced to one-third cup. Strain, and add to
sauce with beef extract and seasonings. Just before serving add
mushroom caps peeled, cut in slices lengthwise, and sauted in
butter five minutes.

Chicken a la McDonald

1 cup cold cooked chicken, cut in strips
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
3 cold boiled potatoes, cut in one-third inch slices
11/2 cups scalded milk
Salt
1 truffle cut in strips
Pepper

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Add chicken, potatoes,
and truffle, and, as soon as heated, add seasoning.

Chicken Mousse

Make a chicken force-meat of one-half the breast of a raw chicken
pounded and forced through a puree strainer, the white of one egg
slightly beaten, one-half cup heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and
cayenne to taste. Add three-fourths cup cooked white chicken meat
rubbed through a sieve, the white of an egg slightly beaten, and
one-half cup heavy cream beaten until stiff. Decorate a buttered
mould with truffles, turn in mixture, set in pan of hot water, cover
with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Remove to platter, and
pour around Cream or Bechamel Sauce.

Fillets of Chicken, Sauce Suprme

Remove fillets from three chickens, leaving wing joint and a piece
of bone attached to each fillet. Reserve mignon fillets for the
making of force-meat. Make a pocket in each large fillet, and stuff
with one-half tablespoon force-meat; close pockets, and fasten
each with five pieces of truffle, shaped to represent nails and
drawn through with a larding needle. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, put in small baking-pan, brush over with cold water, add
one-half cup Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, and bake in
a hot oven ten minutes. Arrange cooked mushroom caps
overlapping one another the entire length of platter, put a chop frill
on bone of each fillet, and put three fillets on each side of
mushrooms. Garnish with celery tips and pour around.

Sauce Suprme. Cook remaining chicken with one small sliced
carrot, one onion, one stalk celery, two sprigs parsley, and a bit of
bay leaf, with enough water to cover, one hour. Strain and cook
stock until reduced to one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add
two tablespoons flour, and pour on stock; cook slowly fifteen
minutes. Add three-fourths cup heavy cream and season with salt
and pepper; then add twelve peeled white mushroom caps and
cook five minutes. Remove caps to platter and add one-fourth cup
heavy cream to sauce.

Chicken Force-meat. Put mignon fillets through a meat chopper,
add one-half the quantity of stale bread crumbs cooked with milk
until moisture has nearly evaporated. Cool and put through puree
strainer; then add one and one-half tablespoons melted butter, yolk
one egg, two tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper to taste.

Birds on Canapes

Split five birds (quails or squabs), season with salt and pepper, and
spread with four tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy, and
mixed with three tablespoons flour. Bake in a hot oven until well
browned, basting every four minutes with two tablespoons butter,
melted in one-fourth cup water. Chop six boiled chickens' livers,
season with salt, pepper, and onion juice, moisten with melted
butter, and add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley. Spread
mixture on five pieces toasted bread, arrange a bird on each
canape and garnish with parsley.

Breast of Quail Lucullus

Remove breasts with bone from six quail, lard, and bake in a hot
oven twenty minutes, basting every five minutes with rich brown
stock, that breasts may have a glazed appearance. Mould corn
meal or hominy mush in cone shape; when firm remove from
mould and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. Arrange breasts
on cone around base, and make six nests of mashed seasoned
sweet potato around bases of cone at equal distances, using a
pastry bag and rose tube. Fill nests with creamed mushrooms and
sweetbread. Garnish between nests with toasted bread points, the
tips of which have been brushed with white of egg, then dipped in
finely chopped parsley. Insert a stab frill in each nest and one in
top of cone.

Serve with one and one-half cups rich brown sauce seasoned with
tomato catsup and mashed sweet potato. A small amount of the
sweet potato gives a suggestion of chestnuts.

Pan Broiled Lamb Chops a la Lucullus

Pan broil lamb chops and garnish same as Breast of Quail
Lucullus.

Chickens' Livers en Brochette

Cut each liver in four pieces. Alternate pieces of liver and pieces
of thinly sliced bacon on skewers, allowing one liver and five
pieces of bacon for each skewer. Balance skewers in upright
positions on rack in dripping-pan. Bake in a hot oven until bacon is
crisp. Serve garnished with watercress.

Chestnuts en Cassercle

Remove shells from three cups chestnuts, put in a casserole dish,
and pour over three cups highly seasoned chicken stock. Cover,
and cook in a slow oven three hours; then thicken chicken stock
with two tablespoons butter and one and one-half tablespoons
flour cooked together. Send to table in casserole dish.

Cheese Fondue

1 cup scalded milk
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup soft stale bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 lb. mild cheese, cut in small pieces
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs

Mix first five ingredients, add yolks of eggs beaten until
lemon-colored. Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff.
Pour in a buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a
moderate oven.

Cheese Souffle

2 tablespoons butter
Few grains cayenne
3 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup grated Old English or Young America cheese
1/2 cup scalded milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 3 eggs

Melt butter, add flour, and when well-mixed add gradually scalded
milk. Then add salt, cayenne, and cheese. Remove from fire; add
yolks of eggs beaten until lemon-colored. Cool mixture, and cut
and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Pour into a
buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven.
Serve at once.

Ramequins Souffles

Bake Cheese Souffle mixture in ramequin dishes. Serve for a
course in a dinner.

Cheese Balls

11/2 cups grated mild cheese
Few grains cayenne
1 tablespoon flour
Whites 3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
Cracker dust

Mix cheese with flour and seasonings. Beat whites of eggs until
stiff, and add to first mixture. Shape in small balls, roll in cracker
dust, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with salad
course.

Compote of Rice with Peaches

Wash two-thirds cup rice, add one cup boiling water, and steam
until rice has absorbed water; then add one and one-third cups hot
milk, one teaspoon salt, and one-fourth cup sugar. Cook until rice
is soft. Turn into a slightly buttered round shallow mould. When
shaped, remove from mould to serving dish, and arrange on top
sections of cooked peaches drained from their syrup and dipped in
macaroon dust. Garnish between sections with candied cherries
and angelica cut in leaf-shapes. Angelica may be softened by
dipping in hot water. Color peach syrup with fruit red, and pour
around mould.

Compote of Rice and Pears

Cook and mould rice as for Compote of Rice with Peaches.
Arrange on top quarters of cooked pears, and pour around pear
syrup.

Croustades of Bread

Cut stale bread in two inch slices, and slices in diamonds, squares,
or circles. Remove centres, leaving cases. Fry in deep fat or brush
over with melted butter, and brown in oven. Fill with creamed
vegetables, fish, or meat.

Rice Croustades

Wash one cup rice, and steam in White Stock. Cool, and mix with
three-fourths cup Thick White Sauce, to which has been added
beaten yolk of one egg, slight grating of nutmeg, one-half teaspoon
salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Spread mixture in buttered
pan two inches thick, cover with buttered paper, and place weight
on top. Let stand until cold. Turn from pan, cut in rounds, remove
centres, leaving cases; dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in
deep fat. Fill with creamed fish.

Souffle au Rhum

Yolks 2 eggs
1 tablespoon rum
1/4 cup powdered sugar
Whites 4 eggs
Few grains salt

Beat yolks of eggs until lemon-colored. Add sugar, salt, and rum.
Cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Butter a
hot omelet pan, pour in one-half mixture, brown underneath, fold
gradually, turn on a hot serving dish, and sprinkle with powdered
sugar. Cook remaining mixture in same way. Souffle au Rhum
should be slightly underdone inside. At gentlemen's dinners rum is
sometimes poured around souffle and lighted when sent to table.

Omelet Souffle

Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup powdered sugar
Whites 4 eggs
Few grains salt

Prepare same as Souffle au Rhum. Mound three-fourths of mixture
on a slightly buttered platter. Decorate mound with remaining
mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven.

Patties

Patty shells are filled with Creamed Oysters, Oysters in Brown
Sauce, Creamed Chicken, Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms, or
Creamed Sweetbreads. They are arranged on a folded napkin, and
are served for a course at dinner or luncheon.

Bouchees

Small pastry shells filled with creamed meat are called bouchees.

Vol-au-vents

Vol-au-vents are filled same as patty shells.

Rissoles

Roll puff paste to one-eighth inch thickness, and cut in rounds.
Place one teaspoon finely chopped seasoned meat moistened with
Thick White Sauce on each round. Brush each piece with cold
water half-way round close to edge. Fold like a turnover, and press
edges together. Dip in egg slightly beaten and diluted with one
tablespoon water. Roll in gelatine, fry in deep fat, and drain.
Granulated gelatine cannot be used.

Filling for Rissoles. Mix one-half cup finely chopped cold cooked
chicken with one-fourth cup finely chopped cooked ham. Moisten
with Thick White Sauce, and season with salt and cayenne.

Cigarettes a la Prince Henry

Roll puff paste very thin, and spread with Chicken Force-meat.
Roll like a jelly roll, and cut in pieces four inches long and a little
larger round than a cigarette. Brush over with egg, roll in crumbs,
fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Arrange log-cabin
fashion on a folded doiley, and serve while hot.

Zigaras a la Russe

Make and fry same as Cigarettes a la Prince Henry, using cheese
mixture in place of Chicken Force-meat. Melt two tablespoons
butter, add four tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-half
cup milk, then add one tablespoon heavy cream, one egg yolk, and
one-third cup grated cheese. Season highly with salt and cayenne.
Cool before spreading on paste.

Dresden Patties

Cut stale bread in two-inch slices, shape with a round cutter three
inches in diameter, and remove centres, making cases. Dip cases in
egg, slightly beaten, diluted with milk and seasoned with salt,
allowing two tablespoons milk to each egg. When bread is
thoroughly soaked, drain, and fry in deep fat. Fill with any mixture
suitable for patty cases.

Russian Patties

1 pint oysters
1/2 tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons butter
3/4 tablespoon lemon juice
41/2 tablespoons flour
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon grated horseradish
1/2 cup cream
2 tablespoons capers
Salt and pepper

Parboil oysters, drain, and reserve liquor; there should be one-half
cup. Make sauce of butter, flour, stock, oyster liquor, and cream;
add yolks of eggs, seasonings, and salt and pepper to taste. Add
oysters, and as soon as oysters are heated, fill patty shells.

Cheese Souffle with Pastry

2 eggs
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2/3 cup thick cream
1/2 cup Swiss cheese, cut in small dice
Salt and pepper
Few grains cayenne
1/2 cup grated American cheese
Few gratings nutmeg

Add eggs to cream and beat slightly, then add cheese and
seasonings. Line the sides of ramequin dishes with strips of puff
paste. Fill dishes with mixture until two-thirds full. Bake fifteen
minutes in a hot oven.

Lamb Rissoles a l'Indienne

Roll puff paste one-eighth inch thick and shape, using circular
cutters of different sizes. On the centres of smaller pieces put one
tablespoon prepared lamb mixture, wet edges, cover with large
pieces, press edges firmly together, prick upper paste in several
places, brush over with yolk of egg diluted with one teaspoon cold
water, and bake in hot oven.

Lamb Filling. Cook three tablespoons butter, with a few drops
onion juice, until well browned, add one-fourth cup flour, and
brown butter and flour, then add one cup lamb stock. Season
highly with salt, paprika, and curry powder. To one-half the sauce,
add two-thirds cup cold roast lamb cut in one-third inch cubes.
Add stock to remaining sauce, and pour around rissoles just before
sending to table.

Quail Pies

6 quails
Bit of bay leaf
6 slices carrot
1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
Stalk of celery
Flour
2 slices onion
Salt and pepper
Sprig of parsley
Sherry wine

Remove breasts and legs from birds, season with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and saute in butter. To butter in pan add
vegetables and peppercorns, and cook five minutes. Separate backs
of birds in pieces, cover with cold water, add vegetables, and cook
slowly one hour. Drain stock from vegetables, and thicken with
flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Season with
salt, pepper, and wine. If not rich enough, add more butter. Allow
one bird to each individual dish, sauce to make sufficiently moist,
and cover with plain or puff paste, in which make two incisions,
through which the legs of the bird should extend.

Aspic Jelly

Carrot
2 tablespoons each, cut in cubes
7/8 cup white or Madeira wine
Onion
1 box gelatine
Celery
1 quart White Stock for vegetables and white meat, or
2 sprigs parsley
2 sprigs thyme
1 sprig savory
1 quart Brown Stock for dark meat
2 cloves
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Juice 1 lemon
1 bay leaf
Whites 3 eggs

Aspic jelly is always made with meat stock, and is principally used
in elaborate entrees where fish, chicken, game, or vegetables are to
be served moulded in jelly. In making Aspic Jelly, use as much
liquid as the pan which is to contain moulded dish will hold.

Put vegetables, seasonings, and wine in a saucepan; cook eight
minutes, and strain, reserving liquid. Add gelatine to stock, then
add lemon juice and strained liquid. Season with salt and cayenne
and whites of eggs slightly beaten. Add slowly to remaining
mixture, stirring constantly until boiling-point is reached. Place on
back of range and let stand thirty minutes. Strain through a double
cheese-cloth placed over a fine wire strainer, or through a jelly
bag.

Tomatoes in Aspic

Peel six small firm tomatoes, and remove pulp, having opening in
tops as small as possible. Sprinkle insides with salt, invert, and let
stand thirty minutes. Fill with vegetable or chicken salad. Cover
tops with Mayonnaise to which has been added a small quantity of
dissolved gelatine, and garnish with capers and sliced pickles.
Place a pan in ice-water, cover bottom with aspic jelly mixture,
and let stand until jelly is firm. Arrange tomatoes on jelly
garnished side down. Add more aspic jelly mixture, let stand until
firm, and so continue until all is used. Chill thoroughly, turn on a
serving dish, and garnish around base with parsley.

Stuffed Olives in Aspic

Stone olives, using an olive stoner, and fill cavities thus made with
green butter. Place small Dario moulds in pan of ice-water, and
pour in aspic jelly mixture one-fourth inch dep. When firm put an
olive in each mould (keeping olives in place by means of small
wooden skewers) and add aspic by spoonfuls until moulds are
filled. Chill thoroughly, remove to circular slices of liver sausage,
garnish with green butter forced through a pastry bag and tube,
yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs forced through a strainer, and red
peppers cut in fancy shapes.

Green Butter. Mix yolk one "hard-boiled" egg, two tablespoons
butter, one sprig parsley, one sprig tarragon, one small shallot,
one-half teaspoon anchovy paste, one teaspoon capers, and one
teaspoon chopped gherkins, and pound in a mortar; then rub
through a very fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper, and add a
few drops vinegar.

Tongue in Aspic

Cook a tongue according to directions on page 210. After
removing skin and roots, run a skewer through tip of tongue and
fleshy part, thus keeping tongue in shape. When cool, remove
skewer. Put a round pan in ice-water, cover bottom with brown
aspic, and when firm decorate with cooked carrot, turnip, beet cut
in fancy shapes, and parsley. Cover with aspic jelly mixture,
adding it by spoonfuls so as not to disarrange vegetables. When
this layer of mixture is firm, put in tongue, adding gradually
remaining mixture as in Tomatoes in Aspic.

Birds in Aspic

Clean, bone, stuff, and truss a bird, then steam over body bones or
roast. If roasted, do not dredge with flour. Put a pan in ice-water,
cover bottom with aspic jelly mixture, and when firm garnish with
truffles and egg custard thinly sliced and cut in fancy shapes. The
smaller the shapes the more elaborate may be the designs. When
garnishing the small shapes, pieces are so difficult to handle that
they should be taken on the pointed end of a larding-needle, and
placed as desired on jelly. Add aspic mixture by spoonfuls, that
designs may not be disturbed. When mixture is added, and firm to
the depth of three-fourths inch, place in the bird, breast down. If
sides of mould are to be decorated, dip pieces in jelly and they will
cling to pan. Add remaining mixture gradually as in Tomatoes in
Aspic. Small birds, chicken, capon, or turkey, may be put in aspic.

Egg Custard for Decorating

Separate yolks from whites of two eggs. Beat yolks slightly, add
two tablespoons milk and few grains salt. Strain into a buttered
cup, put in a saucepan, surround with boiling water to one-half
depth of cup, cover, put on back of range, and steam until custard
is firm. Beat whites slightly, add few grains salt, and cook as
yolks. Cool, turn from cups, cut in thin slices, then in desired
shapes.

Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic

Chop finely breast and meat from second joints of an uncooked
chicken, or one pound of uncooked lean veal. Add one-half cup
cracker crumbs, hot stock to moisten, salt, pepper, celery salt,
cayenne, lemon juice, and one egg slightly beaten. In stuffing
boned chicken, stuff body, legs, and wings, being careful that too
much stuffing is not used, as an allowance must be made for the
swelling of cracker crumbs.

Spring Mousse

Chop three-fourths cup cold cooked chicken or veal, and pound in
a mortar. Add gradually one-half cup heavy cream, and force
mixture through puree strainer. Add one-half tablespoon
granulated gelatine dissolved in three tablespoons White Stock.
Add another one-half cup heavy cream and season with salt,
cayenne, and horseradish powder. Pour jelly into small moulds
one-third inch deep, using lemon Sauterne, or aspic. When firm,
fill moulds with veal mixture and set aside to chill. Remove from
moulds and serve on lettuce leaves.

Chaud-froid of Eggs

Cut six "hard-boiled" eggs in halves lengthwise and remove yolks.
Mix one-third cup cold cooked chicken finely chopped, two
tablespoons cold cooked ham finely chopped, two tablespoons
chopped raw mushroom caps, one-half tablespoon chopped
truffles, and yolks of four of the eggs rubbed through a sieve.
Moisten with Spanish Sauce and refill whites with mixture. Mask
eggs with Spanish Sauce, garnish with truffles, cut in fancy shapes,
and brush over with aspic. Arrange on serving dish and garnish
with cress.

Spanish Sauce. Cook one and one-half cups canned tomatoes
fifteen minutes with one-fourth onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay
leaf, six cloves, one-third teaspoon salt, one fourth teaspoon
paprika, and a few grains cayenne; then rub through a sieve. Beat
yolks three eggs slightly, and add, gradually, three tablespoons
olive oil. Combine mixtures and cook over hot water, stirring
constantly. Add one tablespoon granulated gelatine soaked in
three-fourths tablespoon each tarragon vinegar and cold water.
Strain, and cool.

Jellied Vegetables

Soak one tablespoon granulated gelatine in one-fourth cup cold
water, and dissolve in one cup boiling water; then add one-fourth
cup, each, sugar and vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, and
one teaspoon salt. Strain, cool, and when beginning to stiffen, add
one cup celery cut in small pieces, one-half cup finely shredded
cabbage, and one and one-half canned pimentoes cut in small
pieces. Turn into a mould and chill. Remove from mould and
arrange around jelly thin slices of cold cooked meat overlapping
one another. Garnish with celery tips.

Mayonnaise of Mackerel

Clean two medium-sized mackerel, put in baking-dish with
one-third cup each water, cider vinegar, and tarragon vinegar,
twelve cloves, one teaspoon each peppercorns and salt, and a bit of
bay leaf. Cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven.
Arrange on serving dish, remove skin, cool, and mask with
Mayonnaise thickened with gelatine. Let stand until thoroughly
chilled, and garnish with sliced cucumbers, lemon baskets filled
with Mayonnaise sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, and sprigs
of parsley.

Chaud-froid of Chicken

2 tablespoons butter
3/4 teaspoon granulated gelatine dissolved in one tablespoon hot
water
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup White Stock
Yolk one egg
Aspic jelly
2 tablespoons cream
Truffles
1 tablespoon lemon juice
6 pieces cooked chicken, shaped in form of cutlets
Salt and pepper

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and stock; add egg yolk diluted with
cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper; then add dissolved gelatine.
Dip chicken in sauce which has been allowed to cool. When
chicken has cooled, garnish upper side with truffles cut in shapes.
Brush over with aspic jelly mixture, and chill. Arrange a bed of
lettuce; in centre pile cold cooked asparagus tips or celery cut in
small pieces, marinated with French Dressing, and place chicken
at base of salad.

Moulded Salmon, Cucumber Sauce

1 can salmon
Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 tablespoon salt
11/2 tablespoons melted butter
11/2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 cup milk
1/2 tablespoon flour
1/4 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon mustard
3/4 tablespoon granulated gelatine
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons cold water

Remove salmon from can, rinse thoroughly with hot water, and
separate in flakes. Mix dry ingredients, add egg yolks, butter, milk,
and vinegar. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly until
mixture thickens. Add gelatine soaked in cold water. Strain, and
add to salmon. Fill individual mould, chill, and serve with

Cucumber Sauce II. Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, add
one-fourth teaspoon salt, a few grains pepper, and gradually two
tablespoons vinegar; then add one cucumber, pared, chopped, and
drained through cheesecloth.

Moulded Chicken, Sauterne Jelly

Cover a four-pound fowl with two quarts cold water, and add four
slices carrot, one onion stuck with eight cloves, two stalks celery,
bit of bay leaf, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and one tablespoon
salt. Bring quickly to boiling-point, and let simmer until meat is
tender. Remove meat from bones, and finely chop. Reduce stock
to three-fourths cup, cool, and remove fat. Soak one teaspoon
granulated gelatine in one teaspoon cold water, and dissolve in
stock which has been reheated. Add to meat, and season with salt,
pepper, celery salt, lemon juice, and onion juice. Pack solidly into
a slightly buttered one-pound baking powder tin, and chill.
Remove from tin, cut in thin slices, and arrange around Sauterne
Jelly, beaten with a fork until light.

When making Sauterne Jelly to serve with meat, use but three
tablespoons sugar.

Lenox Chicken

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
11/2 teaspoons sugar
3/4 cup hot chicken stock
1 teaspoon mustard
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon pepper
11/2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon vinegar
1/2 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/2 cup hot cream
2 tablespoons cold water
11/2 tablespoons butter
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 cups finely chopped celery

Dissolve one tablespoon gelatine in chicken stock and strain.
When mixture begins to thicken beat until frothy and add
three-fourths cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, and chicken dice.
Season with salt and pepper, turn into individual moulds, and chill.
Soak remaining gelatine in cold water, dissolve by standing over
hot water, then strain. Beat yolks of eggs slightly and add salt,
sugar, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, and hot cream. Cook over
hot water until mixture thickens, add butter and strained gelatine.
Add mixture, gradually, to whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when
cold, fold in heavy cream beaten until stiff, and celery. Remove
chicken from mould, surround with sauce, and garnish with celery
tips.

Rum Cakes

Shape Brioche dough in the form of large biscuits and put into
buttered individual tin moulds, having moulds two-thirds full;
cover, and let rise to fill moulds. Bake twenty-five minutes in a
moderate oven. Remove from moulds and dip in Rum Sauce.
Arrange on a dish and pour remaining sauce around cakes.

Rum Sauce

1/2 cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
1/4 cup rum or wine

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water five minutes; then add
rum or wine.

Flutes

Shape Brioche dough in sticks similar to Bread Sticks. Place on a
buttered sheet, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. Brush over with
white of one egg slightly beaten and diluted with one-half
tablespoon cold water. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake ten

Baba Cakes

To one and one-half cups Brioche dough add one-third cup each
raisins seeded and cut in pieces, currants, and citron thinly sliced,
previously soaked in Maraschino for one hour. Shape, let rise, and
bake same as Rum Cakes. Dip in sauce made same as Rum Sauce,
substituting Maras chino in place of rum.

Baba Cakes with Apricots

11/2 cups flour
2/3 cup butter
1 yeast cake dissolved in
4 eggs
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt

Make sponge of one-half cup flour and dissolved yeast cake; cover
and let rise. Mix remaining flour with butter, two eggs, sugar, and
salt. Beat thoroughly, and add, while beating, remaining eggs, one
at a time, then beat until mixture is perfectly smooth. As soon as
sponge has doubled its bulk, combine mixtures, beat thoroughly,
and half fill buttered individual tins. Let rise, and bake in a
moderate oven. Remove from tins, cut a circular piece from top of
each, and scoop out a small quantity of the inside. Fill centres thus
made with Apricot Marmalade, replace circular pieces, and serve
with Wine Sauce .

Chapter XXIII. HOT PUDDINGS.

Rice Pudding

4 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup rice
1/3 cup sugar
Grated rind 1/2 lemon

Wash rice, mix ingredients, and pour into buttered pudding-dish;
bake three hours in very slow oven, stirring three times during first
hour of baking to prevent rice from settling.

Poor Man's Pudding

4 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup rice
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup molasses
1 tablespoon butter

Wash rice, mix and bake same as Rice Pudding. At last stirring,
add butter.

Indian Pudding

5 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup molasses
1/3 cup Indian meal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ginger

Pour milk slowly on meal, cook in double boiler twenty minutes,
add molasses, salt, and ginger; pour into buttered pudding-dish and
bake two hours in slow oven; serve with cream. If baked too
rapidly it will not whey. Ginger may be omitted.

Cerealine Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup molasses
2 cups cerealine
11/2 teaspoons salt
11/2 tablespoons butter

Pour milk on cerealine, add remaining ingredients, pour into
buttered pudding-dish, and bake one hour in slow oven. Serve with
cream.

Newton Tapioca

5 tablespoons pearl tapioca
3/4 cup molasses
4 cups scalded milk
3 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons Indian meal
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup milk

Soak tapioca two hours in cold water to cover. Pour scalded milk
over Indian meal and cook in double boiler ten minutes. Add
tapioca drained from water, molasses, butter, and salt; turn into
buttered pudding-dish, and pour over remaining milk, but do not
stir. Bake one and one-fourth hours in a moderate oven.

Apple Tapioca

3/4 cup pearl or 1/2 cup minute tapioca
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cold water
7 sour apples
21/2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup sugar

Soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover, drain, add boiling
water and salt; cook in double boiler until transparent. Core and
pare apples, arrange in buttered pudding-dish, fill cavities with
sugar, pour over tapioca, and bake in moderate oven until apples
are soft. Serve with sugar and cream or Cream Sauce I. Minute
Tapioca requires no soaking.

Tapioca Custard Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup sugar
2/3 cup pearl tapioca, 1/3 cup minute tapioca
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 tablespoon butter

Soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover, drain, add to milk,
and cook in double boiler thirty minutes; beat eggs slightly, add
sugar and salt, pour on gradually hot mixture, turn into buttered
pudding-dish, add butter, bake thirty minutes in slow oven.

Peach Tapioca

1 can peaches
Boiling water
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup tapioca
1/2 teaspoon salt

Drain peaches, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and let stand one
hour; soak tapioca one hour in cold water to cover: to peach syrup
add enough boiling water to make three cups; heat to
boiling-point, add tapioca drained from cold water, sugar, and salt;
then cook in a double boiler until transparent. Line a mould or
pudding-dish with peaches cut in quarters, fill with tapioca, and
bake in moderate oven thirty minutes; cool slightly, turn on a dish,
and serve with Cream Sauce I.

Corn Pudding

2 cups popped corn, finely pounded
1/2 cup brown sugar
3 cups milk
1 tablespoon butter
3 eggs, slightly beaten
3/4 teaspoon salt

Scald milk, pour over corn, and let stand one hour. Add remaining
ingredients, turn into a buttered dish, and bake in a slow oven until
firm. Serve with cream, or maple syrup.

Scalloped Apples

1 small stale loaf baker's bread
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 quart sliced apples
Grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon

Cut loaf in halves, remove soft part, and crumb by rubbing through
a colander; melt butter and stir in lightly with fork; cover bottom
of buttered pudding-dish with crumbs and spread over one-half the
apples, sprinkle with one-half sugar, nutmeg, lemon juice, and rind
mixed together; repeat cover with remaining crumbs, and bake
forty minutes in moderate oven. Cover at first to prevent crumbs
browning too rapidly. Serve with sugar and cream.

Bread Pudding

2 cups stale bread crumbs
2 eggs
1 quart scalded milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla or
1/4 cup melted butter
1/4 teaspoon spice

Soak bread crumbs in milk, set aside until cool; add sugar, butter,
eggs slightly beaten, salt, and flavoring; bake one hour in buttered
pudding-dish in slow oven; serve with Vanilla Sauce. In preparing
bread crumbs for puddings avoid using outside crusts. With a
coarse grater there need be but little waste.

Cracker Custard Pudding

Make same as Bread Pudding, using two-thirds cup cracker
crumbs in place of bread crumbs; after baking, cover with
meringue made of whites two eggs, one-fourth cup powdered
sugar, and one tablespoon lemon juice; return to oven to cook
meringue.

Bread and Butter Pudding

1 small stale loaf baker's bread
1/2 cup sugar
Butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 quart milk

Remove end crusts from bread, cut loaf in one-half inch slices,
spread each slice generously with butter; arrange in buttered
pudding-dish, buttered side down. Beat eggs slightly, add sugar,
salt, and milk; strain, and pour over bread; let stand thirty minutes.
Bake one hour in slow oven, covering the first half-hour of baking.
The top of pudding should be well browned. Serve with Hard or
Creamy Sauce. Three-fourths cup raisins, parboiled in boiling
water to cover and seeded, may be sprinkled between layers of
bread.

Bread and Butter Apple Pudding

Cover bottom of a shallow baking-dish with apple sauce. Cut stale
bread in one-third inch slices, spread with softened butter, remove
crusts, and cut in triangular-shaped pieces; then arrange closely
together over apple. Sprinkle generously with sugar, to which is
added a few drops vanilla. Bake in a moderate oven and serve with
cream.

Chocolate Bread Pudding

2 cups stale bread crumbs
2/3 cup sugar
4 cups scalded milk
2 eggs
2 squares unsweetened chocolate
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Soak bread in milk thirty minutes; melt chocolate in saucepan
placed over hot water, add one-half sugar and enough milk taken
from bread and milk to make of consistency to pour; add to
mixture with remaining sugar, salt, vanilla, and eggs slightly
beaten; turn into buttered pudding-dish and bake one hour in a
moderate oven. Serve with Hard or Cream Sauce I.

Mock Indian Pudding

1/2 small loaf baker's entire-wheat bread
31/2 cups milk
1/2 cup molasses
Butter

Remove crusts from bread and cut into five slices of uniform
thickness. Spread generously with butter, arrange in baking-dish,
pour over three cups of milk and molasses. Bake from two to three
hours in a very slow oven, stirring three times during the first hour
of baking, then add remaining milk. Serve with cream or vanilla
ice cream.

Bangor Pudding

11/3 cups cracker crumbs
1/3 cup molasses
Boiling water
1 egg
2 cups milk
1 cup raisins

Moisten cracker crumbs with boiling water, and let stand until
cool. Add milk, molasses, egg slightly beaten, and raisins seeded
and cut in pieces. Turn into a buttered pudding mould, and steam
eight hours. Let stand in mould to cool. Serve cold with Cream
Sauce II.

Steamed Lemon Pudding

8 small slices stale bread
3 tablespoons sugar
Lemon mixture
2 eggs
1 cup milk
Grated rind 1 lemon
1/8 teaspoon salt

Spread bread with lemon mixture, and arrange in buttered pudding
mould. Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, and milk; strain, add
lemon rind, and pour mixture over bread. Cover, set in pan of hot
water, and bake one hour.

Lemon Mixture. Cook three tablespoons lemon juice, grated rind
one lemon, and one-fourth cup butter two minutes. Add one cup
sugar and three eggs slightly beaten; cook until mixture thickens,
cool, and add one tablespoon brandy.

Cottage Pudding

1/4 cup butter
1 cup milk
2/3 cup sugar
21/4 cups flour
1 egg
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; mix
and sift flour, baking powder, and salt; add alternately with milk to
first mixture; turn into buttered cake-pan; bake thirty-five minutes.
Serve with Vanilla or Hard Sauce.

Strawberry Cottage Pudding

1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
13/4 cups flour
1 egg
3 teaspoons baking powder

Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake twenty-five minutes in
shallow pan; cut in squares and serve with strawberries (sprinkled
with sugar and slightly mashed) and Cream Sauce I. Sliced
peaches may be used in place of strawberries.

Orange Puffs

1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
13/4 cups flour
2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking powder

Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake in buttered individual tins.
Serve with Orange Sauce.

Chocolate Pudding

1/4 cup butter
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
Whites 2 eggs
Yolks 2 eggs
11/3 squares unsweetened chocolate
1/2 cup milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
13/8 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, and add one-half the sugar gradually. Beat yolks
of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, and add, gradually,
remaining sugar. Combine mixtures, and add milk alternately with
flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt; then add
whites of eggs beaten until stiff, melted chocolate, and vanilla.
Bake in an angel-cake pan remove from pan, cool, fill the centre
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and pour around.

Chocolate Sauce. Boil one cup sugar, one half-cup water, and a
few grains cream-of-tartar until of the consistency of a thin syrup.
Melt one and one-half squares chocolate and pour on gradually the
hot syrup. Cool slightly, and flavor with one-fourth teaspoon
vanilla.

Custard Souffle

3 tablespoons butter
1 cup scalded milk
1/4 cup flour
4 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

Melt butter, add flour, and gradually hot milk. Bring to boiling
point and pour on to yolks of eggs beaten until thick and
lemon-colored, and mixed with sugar and salt; cool, and cut and
fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff and dry. Turn into buttered
pudding-dish, and bake from thirty to thirty-five minutes in slow
oven; take from oven and serve at once, if not served immediately
it is sure to fall; serve with Creamy or Foamy sauce.

Apricot Souffle

Drain and reserve syrup from one can apricots and cut fruit into
quarters, then put closely together on bottom of a buttered
baking-dish. Pour over Custard Souffle mixture. Bake from
thirty-five to forty minutes in a slow oven. Serve with apricot
syrup and whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla or
vanilla ice cream. Canned peaches may be used in place of
apricots.

Lemon Souffle

Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup sugar
Grated rind and juice 1 lemon
Whites 4 eggs

Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually and
continue beating, then add lemon rind and juice. Cut and fold in
whites of eggs beaten until dry; turn into buttered pudding-dish, set
in pan of hot water, and bake thirty-five to forty minutes. Serve
with or without sauce.

Chocolate Souffle

2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons hot water
3/4 cup milk
3 eggs
11/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring
constantly, milk; cook until boiling-point is reached. Melt
chocolate in a small saucepan placed over hot water, add sugar and
water, and stir until smooth. Combine mixtures, and add yolks of
eggs well beaten; cool. Fold in whites of eggs beaten stiff, and add
vanilla. Turn into a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a moderate
oven twenty-five minutes. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

Mocha Souffle

3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons bread flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup boiled coffee (Mocha)
4 eggs
1/4 cup cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Make and bake same as Chocolate Souffle. Serve with Mocha
Sauce. Mix yolks two eggs, one-fourth cup sugar, and a few grains
salt; then add gradually one-half cup Mocha coffee infusion. Cook
in double boiler until mixture thickens, stirring constantly. Strain,
cool, and fold in one cup whipped cream.

Fruit Souffle

3/4 cup fruit pulp, peach, apricot, or quince
Whites 3 eggs
Sugar
Few grains salt

Rub fruit through sieve; if canned fruit is used, first drain from
syrup. Heat, and sweeten if needed; beat whites of eggs until stiff,
add gradually hot fruit pulp, and salt, and continue beating; turn
into buttered and sugared individual moulds, having them
three-fourths full; set moulds in pan of hot water and bake in slow
oven until firm, which may be determined by pressing with finger;
serve with Sabyon Sauce.

Spanish Souffle

1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt butter, add crumbs, cook until slightly browned, stirring
often; add milk and sugar, cook twenty minutes in double boiler;
remove from fire, add unbeaten yolks of eggs, then cut and fold in
whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flavor. Bake same as Fruit
Souffle.

Chestnut Souffle

1/4 cup sugar
1 cup chestnut puree
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup milk
Whites 3 eggs

Mix sugar and flour, add chestnuts and milk gradually; cook five
minutes, stirring constantly; beat whites of eggs until stiff, and cut
and fold into mixture. Bake same as Fruit Souffle; serve with
Cream Sauce.

Chocolate Rice Meringue

2 cups milk
1 square melted chocolate
1/4 cup rice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup seeded raisins
1 tablespoon butter
Whites two eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream

Scald milk, add rice and salt, and cook until rice is soft. Add
butter, sugar, chocolate, vanilla, and raisins. Cut and fold in the
whites of eggs, beaten until stiff, and cream, beaten until stiff.
Pour into a buttered baking-dish, and bake fifteen minutes. Cover
with a meringue made of the whites of three eggs, six tablespoons
powdered sugar, and one-half teaspoon vanilla; then brown in a
moderate oven.

Steamed Apple Pudding

2 cups flour
2 tablespoons butter
4 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 apples cut in eighths

Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in butter with tips of fingers,
add milk gradually, mixing with a knife; toss on floured board, pat
and roll out, place apples on middle of dough, and sprinkle with
one tablespoon sugar mixed with one-fourth teaspoon each of salt
and nutmeg; bring dough around apples and carefully lift into
buttered mould or five-pound lard pail; or apples may be sprinkled
over dough, and dough rolled like a jelly roll; cover closely, and
steam one hour and twenty minutes; serve with Vanilla or Cold
Sauce. Twice the number of apples may be sprinkled with sugar
and cooked until soft in granite kettle placed on top of range,
covered with dough, rolled size to fit in kettle, then kettle covered
tightly, and dough steamed fifteen minutes. When turned on dish
for serving, apples will be on top.

Steamed Blueberry Pudding

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in butter same as for
Steamed Apple Pudding. Add one cup each of milk, and
blueberries rolled in flour; turn into buttered mould and steam one
and one-half hours. Serve with Creamy Sauce.

Steamed Cranberry Pudding

1/2 cup butter
31/2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
11/4 tablespoons baking powder
3 eggs
1/2 cup milk
11/2 cups cranberries

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs well beaten. Mix
and sift flour and baking powder and add alternately with milk to
first mixture, stir in berries, turn into buttered mould, cover, and
steam three hours. Serve with thin cream, sweetened and flavored
with nutmeg.

Ginger Pudding

1/3 cup butter
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg
2 teaspoons ginger
21/4 cups flour
1 cup milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; mix
and sift dry ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture.
Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with
Vanilla Sauce.

Harvard Pudding

1/3 cup butter
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
21/2 cups flour
1 egg
1 cup milk

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in butter with tips of fingers;
beat egg, add milk, and combine mixtures; turn into buttered
mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with warm Apple Sauce
and Hard Sauce.

Apple Sauce. Pick over and wash dried apples, soak over night in
cold water to cover; cook until soft; sweeten, and flavor with
lemon juice.

Steamed Chocolate Pudding

3 tablespoons butter
21/4 cups flour
2/3 cup sugar
41/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
21/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
1 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix
and sift flour with baking powder and salt, and add alternately with
milk to first mixture, then add chocolate, melted. Turn into a
buttered mould. Cover, and steam two hours. Serve with

Cream Sauce

1/4 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup heavy cream

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, vanilla, and cream beaten
until stiff.

Swiss Pudding

1/2 cup butter
Grated rind one lemon
7/8 cup flour
5 eggs
2 cups milk
1/3 cup powdered sugar

Cream the butter, add flour gradually; scald milk with lemon rind,
add to first mixture, and cook five minutes in double boiler. Beat
yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually,
then add to cooked mixture; cool, and cut and fold in whites of
eggs beaten stiff. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam one
and one-fourth hours; while steaming, be sure water surrounds
mould to half its depth, and never reaches a lower temperature
than the boiling-point.

Snowballs

1/2 cup butter
21/4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk
Whites 4 eggs

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, milk, and flour mixed and
sifted with baking powder; then add the whites of eggs beaten stiff.
Steam thirty-five minutes in buttered cups; serve with preserved
fruit, quince marmalade, or strawberry sauce.

Graham Pudding

1/4 cup butter
11/2 cups Graham flour
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
1 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces

Melt butter, add molasses, milk, egg well beaten, dry ingredients
mixed and sifted, and raisins; turn into buttered mould, cover, and
steam two and one-half hours. Serve with Wine Sauce. Dates or
figs cut in small pieces may be used in place of raisins.

St. James Pudding

3 tablespoons butter
Salt
1/4 teaspoon each
1/2 cup molasses
Clove
1/2 cup milk
Allspice
17/8 cups flour
Nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 lb. dates, stoned and cut in pieces

Mix and steam same as Graham Pudding. Serve with Wine Sauce.
A simple, delicious pudding without egg. Puddings may be
steamed in buttered one-pound baking-powder boxes, providing
they do not leak, and are attractive in shape and easy to serve.

Suet Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 cup molasses
Ginger
1/2 teaspoon each
1 cup milk
Clove
3 cups flour
Nutmeg
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add molasses and milk to suet;
combine mixtures. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam
three hours; serve with Sterling Sauce. Raisins and currants may
be added.

Thanksgiving Pudding I

4 cups scalded milk
1/3 cup melted butter
11/4 cups rolled crackers
1/2 grated nutmeg
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 eggs
11/2 cups raisins

Pour milk over crackers and let stand until cool; add sugar, eggs
slightly beaten, nutmeg, salt, and butter; parboil raisins until soft,
by cooking in boiling water to cover; seed, and add to mixture;
turn into buttered pudding-dish and bake slowly two and one-half
hours, stirring after first half-hour to prevent raisins from settling;
serve with Brandy Sauce.

Thanksgiving Pudding II

1/3 cup suet
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 lb. figs, finely chopped
1/2 cup English walnut meats
21/2 cups stale bread crumbs
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
3/4 cup milk
1 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 eggs
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons baking powder

Chop suet and work with the hand until creamy, then add figs.
Soak bread crumbs in milk, add eggs well beaten, sugar, salt, and
spices. Combine mixtures, add nut meats and raisins dredged with
flour. Sprinkle over baking powder and beat thoroughly. Turn into
a buttered mould, steam three hours, and serve with Yellow Sauce
II , flavored with brandy.

Hunters' Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
Clove
1/2 teaspoon each
1 cup molasses
Mace
1 cup milk
Allspice
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon soda
11/2 cups raisins
11/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons flour

Mix same as Suet Pudding. Stone, cut, and flour raisins, and add to
mixture. Then steam.

French Fruit Pudding

1 cup finely chopped suet
1/2 teaspoon clove
1 cup molasses
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour milk
11/4 cups raisins, seeded and chopped
11/2 teaspoons soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup currants
23/4 cups flour

Mrs. Carrie M. Dearborn

Add molasses and sour milk to suet; add two cups flour mixed and
sifted with soda, salt, and spices; add fruit mixed with remaining
flour. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam four hours.
Serve with Sterling Sauce.

Fig Pudding I

3 oz. beef suet
1/2 cup milk
1/2 lb. figs. finely chopped
2 eggs
21/3 cups stale bread crumbs
1 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt

Chop suet, and work with the bands until creamy, then add figs.
Soak bread crumbs in milk, add eggs well beaten, sugar, and salt.
Combine mixtures, turn into a buttered mould, steam three hours.
Serve with Yellow Sauce I or II.

Fig Pudding II

1/4 lb. suet
1/4 lb. brown sugar
1/2 lb. figs (finely chopped)
1/4 lb. bread crumbs
1 large sour apple (cored, pared, and chopped)
1/4 cup milk
2 eggs
3 oz. flour

Cream the suet, and add figs, apple, and sugar. Pour milk over
bread crumbs, and add yolks of eggs, well beaten; combine
mixtures, add flour and whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Turn into
buttered pudding mould, and steam four hours. Serve with Lemon
Sauce III.

English Plum Pudding I

1/2 lb. stale bread crumbs
2 oz. finely cut citron
1 cup scalded milk
1/2 lb. suet
1/4 lb. sugar
1/4 cup wine and brandy mixed
4 eggs
1/2 grated nutmeg
1/2 lb. raisins, seeded, cut in pieces, and floured
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 teaspoon clove
1/4 lb. currants
1/3 teaspoon mace
1/4 lb. finely chopped figs
11/2 teaspoons salt

Soak bread crumbs in milk, let stand until cool, add sugar, beaten
yolks of eggs, raisins, currants, figs, and citron; chop suet, and
cream by using the hand; combine mixtures, then add wine,
brandy, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, mace, and whites of eggs beaten
stiff. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam six hours.

English Plum Pudding II

6 ozs. flour
1 cup molasses
6 ozs. stale bread crumbs
3 ozs. candied orange peel, finely cut
3/4 lb. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3/4 lb. currants
1 teaspoon mace
3/4 lb. suet, finely chopped
6 eggs, well beaten
10 ozs. sugar
2 teaspoons salt

Mix ingredients in order given, turn into a thickly floured square
of unbleached cotton cloth. Tie securely, leaving some space to
allow the pudding to swell, and plunge into a kettle of boiling
water. Cook five hours, allowing pudding to be immersed in water
during the entire cooking. Serve with Hard and Liquid Sauce.

Hard Sauce. Cream one-third cup butter; add gradually one cup
brown sugar and two tablespoons brandy, drop by drop. Force
through a pastry bag with rose tube, and garnish with green leaves
and candied cherries.

Liquid Sauce. Mix one-half cup sugar, one-half tablespoon
corn-starch, and a few grains salt. Add gradually, while stirring
constantly, one cup boiling water, and boil five minutes. Remove
from fire, add one tablespoon lemon juice and two tablespoons
brandy; then color with fruit red.

Chapter XXIV. PUDDING SAUCES.

Lemon Sauce I

3/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons butter
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water five minutes; remove
from fire; add butter and lemon juice.

Lemon Sauce II

1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup boiling water
11/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon corn-starch or
Few gratings nutmeg
11/2 tablespoons flour
Few grains salt

Mix sugar and corn-starch, add water gradually, stirring
constantly; boil five minutes, remove from fire, add butter, lemon
juice, and nutmeg.

Lemon Sauce III

1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup boiling water
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Yolks 3 eggs
Few gratings lemon rind

Cream butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs, slightly
beaten; then add water, and cook over boiling water until mixture
thickens. Remove from range, add lemon juice and rind. Serve
with Apple Pudding or Popovers.

Vanilla Sauce

Make same as Lemon Sauce II, using one teaspoon vanilla in place
of lemon juice and nutmeg.

Molasses Sauce

1 cup molasses
2 tablespoons lemon juice or
11/2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vinegar

Boil molasses and butter five minutes; remove from fire and add
lemon juice.

Cream Sauce I

3/4 cup thick cream
1/3 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Mix cream and milk, beat until stiff, using egg-beater; add sugar
and vanilla.

Cream Sauce II

1 egg
1/2 cup thick cream
1 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat white of egg until stiff; add yolk of egg well beaten, and
sugar gradually; dilute cream with milk, beat until stiff, combine
mixtures, and flavor.

Yellow Sauce I

2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla or
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla and
1 teaspoon brandy

Beat eggs until very light, add sugar gradually and continue
beating; then flavor.

Yellow Sauce II

2 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons wine

Beat yolks of eggs until thick, add one-half the sugar gradually;
beat whites of eggs until stiff, add gradually remaining sugar;
combine mixtures, and add wine.

Orange Sauce

Whites 3 eggs
Juice and rind 2 oranges
1 cup powdered sugar
Juice 1 lemon

Beat whites until stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating;
add rind and fruit juices.

Strawberry Sauce

1/3 cup butter
1 cup powdered sugar
2/3 cup strawberries
White 1 egg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg beaten until stiff, and
strawberries. Beat until fruit is mashed.

Creamy Sauce I

1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons milk
3/4 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons wine

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk and wine drop by
drop. If liquids are added too fast the sauce will have a curdled
appearance.

Creamy Sauce II

Use same proportions as given in recipe I. If not careful in adding
liquids, it will curdle; but this will make no difference, as the
sauce is to be warmed over hot water. By careful watching and
constant stirring, the ingredients will be perfectly blended; it
should be creamy in consistency.

Foamy Sauce I

1/2 cup butter
1 egg
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons wine

Cream the butter, add gradually sugar, egg well beaten, and wine;
beat while heating over hot water.

Foamy Sauce II

Whites 2 eggs
1/4 cup hot milk
1 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs until stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating;
add milk and vanilla.

Chocolate Sauce

2 cups milk
2 tablespoons hot water
11/2 tablespoons corn-starch
2 eggs
2 squares unsweetened chocolate
2/3 cup powdered sugar
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Scald one and three-fourths cups milk, add corn-starch diluted
with remaining milk, and cook eight minutes in double boiler;
melt chocolate over hot water, add four tablespoons sugar and hot
water, stir until smooth, then add to cooked mixture; beat whites
of eggs until stiff, add gradually powdered sugar and continue
beating, then add unbeaten yolks, and stir into cooked mixture;
cook one minute, add vanilla, and cool before serving.

Sabyon Sauce

Grated rind and juice 1/2 lemon
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup white wine or
2 eggs
1/4 cup Sherry

Mix lemon, wine, sugar, and yolks of eggs; stir vigorously over fire
until it thickens, using a wire whisk; pour on to whites of eggs
beaten stiff.

Hard Sauce

1/3 cup butter
1/3 teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup powdered sugar
2/3 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and flavoring.

Sterling Sauce

1/2 cup butter
1 teaspoon vanilla or
1 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons wine
4 tablespoons cream or milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk and flavoring drop
by drop to prevent separation.

Wine Sauce

1/2 cup butter
3 tablespoons Sherry or
1 cup powdered sugar
Madeira wine
Slight grating nutmeg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and wine slowly; pile on
glass dish, and sprinkle with grated nutmeg.

Brandy Sauce

1/4 cup butter
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
Whites 2 eggs
2 tablespoon brandy
1/2 cup milk or cream

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then brandy very slowly,
well beaten yolks, and milk or cream. Cook over hot water until it
thickens as a custard, pour on to beaten whites.

Caramel Brandy Sauce

Make same as Brandy Sauce, substituting brown sugar in place of
powdered sugar.

Apricot Sauce

3/4 cup apricot pulp
3/4 cup heavy cream
Sugar

Drain canned apricots from their syrup, and rub through a sieve.
Beat cream until stiff, add to apricot pulp, and sweeten to taste.
Serve with German toast.

Chapter XXV. COLD DESSERTS.

Irish Moss Blanc-Mange

1/3 cup Irish moss
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 cups milk
11/2 teaspoons vanilla

Soak moss fifteen minutes in cold water to cover, drain, pick over,
and add to milk; cook in double boiler thirty minutes; the milk will
seem but little thicker than when put on to cook, but if cooked
longer blanc-mange will be too stiff. Add salt, strain, flavor,
re-strain, and fill individual moulds previously dipped in cold
water; chill, turn on glass dish, surround with thin slices of banana,
and place a slice on each mould. Serve with sugar and cream.

Chocolate Blanc-Mange

Irish Moss Blanc-Mange flavored with chocolate. Melt one and
one-half squares unsweetened chocolate, add one-fourth cup sugar
and one-third cup boiling water, stir until perfectly smooth, adding
to milk just before taking from fire. Serve with sugar and cream.

Rebecca Pudding

4 cups scalded milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup corn-starch
1/2 cup cold milk
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whites 3 eggs

Mix corn-starch, sugar, and salt, dilute with cold milk, add to
scalded milk, stirring constantly until mixture thickens, afterwards
occasionally; cook fifteen minutes. Add flavoring and whites of
eggs beaten stiff, mix thoroughly, mould, chill, and serve with
Yellow Sauce I or II.

Moulded Snow

Make same as Rebecca Pudding, and serve with Chocolate Ice.

Chocolate Cream

2 cups scalded milk
11/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
5 tablespoons corn-starch
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons hot water
1/4 teaspoon salt
Whites 3 eggs
1/3 cup cold milk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix corn-starch, sugar, and salt, dilute with cold milk, add to
scalded milk, and cook over hot water ten minutes, stirring
constantly until thickened; melt chocolate, add hot water, stir until
smooth, and add to cooked mixture; add whites of eggs beaten
stiff, and vanilla. Mould, chill, and serve with cream.

Pineapple Pudding

23/4 cups scalded milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup cold milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup corn-starch
1/2 can grated pineapple
Whites 3 eggs.

Follow directions for Rebecca Pudding, and add pineapple just
before moulding. Fill individual moulds, previously dipped in cold
water. Serve with cream.

Caramel Junket

2 cups milk
Few grains salt
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup boiling water
Whipped cream, sweetened and flavored
1 junket tablet
Chopped nut meats

Heat milk until lukewarm. Caramelize sugar, add boiling water,
and cook until syrup is reduced to one-third cup. Cool, and add
milk slowly to syrup. Reduce junket tablet to powder, using a
small mallet, add to mixture, with salt and vanilla. Turn into a
glass dish, let stand in warm place until set, then chill. Cover with
whipped cream and sprinkle with chopped nuts.

Boiled Custard

2 cups scalded milk
1/4 cup sugar
Yolks 3 eggs
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt; stir constantly while adding
gradually hot milk. Cook in double boiler, continue stirring until
mixture thickens and a coating is formed on the spoon, strain
immediately; chill and flavor. If cooked too long the custard will
curdle; should this happen, by using an egg-beater it may be
restored to a smooth consistency, but custard will not be as thick.
Eggs should be beaten slightly for custard, that it may be of
smooth, thick consistency. To prevent scum from forming, cover
with a perforated tin. When eggs are scarce, use yolks two eggs
and one-half tablespoon corn-starch.

Tipsy Pudding

Flavor Boiled Custard with Sherry wine, and pour over slices of
stale sponge cake; cover with Cream Sauce I or II.

Peach Custard

Arrange alternate layers of stale cake and sections of canned
peaches in glass dish and pour over Boiled Custard. Bananas may
be used instead of peaches; it is then called Banana Custard.

Orange Custard

Arrange slices of sweet oranges in glass dish, pour over them
Boiled Custard; chill, and cover with Meringue I.

Apple Meringue

Use Meringue I and pile lightly on baked apples, brown in oven,
cool, and serve with Boiled Custard. Canned peaches, drained
from their liquor, may be prepared in the same way.

Apple Snow

Whites 3 eggs
3/4 cup apple pulp
Powdered sugar.

Pare, quarter, and core four sour apples, steam until soft, and rub
through sieve; there should be three-fourths cup apple pulp. Beat
on a platter whites of eggs until stiff (using wire whisk), add
gradually apple sweetened to taste, and continue beating. Pile
lightly on glass dish, chill, and serve with Boiled Custard.

Prune Whip

1/3 lb. prunes
1/2 cup sugar
Whites 5 eggs
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

Pick over and wash prunes, then soak several hours in cold water
to cover; cook in same water until soft; remove stones and rub
prunes through a strainer, add sugar, and cook five minutes; the
mixture should be of the consistency of marmalade. Beat whites of
eggs until stiff, add prune mixture gradually when cold, and lemon
juice. Pile lightly on buttered pudding-dish, bake twenty minutes
in slow oven. Serve cold with Boiled Custard.

Raspberry Whip

11/4 cups raspberries
1 cup powdered sugar
White 1 egg

Put ingredients in bowl and beat with wire whisk until stiff enough
to hold in shape; about thirty minutes will be required for beating.
Pile lightly on dish, chill, surround with lady fingers, and serve
with Boiled Custard.

Strawberry Whip may be prepared in same way.

Baked Custard
4 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup sugar
4 to 6 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, pour on slowly scalded milk;
strain in buttered mould, set in pan of hot water. Sprinkle with
nutmeg, and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be readily
determined by running a silver knife through custard; if knife
comes out clean, custard is done. During baking, care must be
taken that water surrounding mould does not reach boiling-point,
or custard will whey. Always bear in mind that eggs and milk in
combination must be cooked at a low temperature. For cup
custards allow four eggs to four cups milk; for large moulded
custard, six eggs; if less eggs are used custard is liable to crack
when turned on a serving dish.

Caramel Custard

4 cups scalded milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup sugar

Put sugar in omelet pan, stir constantly over hot part of range until
melted to a syrup of light brown color. Add gradually to milk,
being careful that milk does not bubble up and go over, as is liable
on account of high temperature of sugar. As soon as sugar is
melted in milk, add mixture gradually to eggs slightly beaten; add
salt and flavoring, then strain in buttered mould. Bake as custard.
Chill, and serve with Caramel Sauce.

Caramel Sauce

1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup boiling water

Miss Parloa

Melt sugar as for Caramel Custard, add water, and boil ten
minutes; cool before serving.

Coffee Custard

2 cups milk
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons ground coffee
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Scald milk with coffee, and strain. Beat eggs slightly; add sugar,
salt, vanilla, and milk. Strain into buttered individual moulds, set
in pan of hot water, and bake until firm.

Tapioca Cream

1/4 cup pearl tapioca or 11/2 tablespoons minute tapioca
2 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
2 cups scalded milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Pick over tapioca and soak one hour in cold water to cover, drain,
add to milk, and cook in double boiler until tapioca is transparent.
Add half the sugar to milk and remainder to egg yolks slightly
beaten, and salt. Combine by pouring hot mixture slowly on egg
mixture, return to double boiler, and cook until it thickens.
Remove from range and add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Chill and
flavor.

Norwegian Prune Pudding

1/2 lb. prunes = 22 prunes
1 inch piece stick cinnamon
2 cups cold water
11/3 cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup corn-starch
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Pick over and wash prunes, then soak one hour in cold water, and
boil until soft in same water. Obtain meat from stones and add to
prunes and water; then add sugar, cinnamon, boiling water, and
simmer ten minutes. Dilute corn-starch with enough cold water to
pour easily, add to prune mixture, and cook five minutes. Remove
cinnamon, add lemon juice, mould, then chill, and serve with
cream.

Nut Prune Souffle

Follow recipe for Norwegian Prune Pudding, then add whites two
eggs beaten stiff and one-half cup walnut meats broken in pieces.

Apples in Bloom

Select eight red apples, cook in boiling water until soft, turning
them often. Have water half surround apples. Remove skins
carefully, that the red color may remain, and arrange on serving
dish. To the water add one cup sugar, grated rind one-half lemon,
and juice one orange; simmer until reduced to one cup. Cool, and
pour over apples. Serve with Cream Sauce I or II.

Neapolitan Baskets

Bake sponge cake in gem pans, cool, and remove centres. Fill with
Cream Sauce I, flavoring half the sauce with chocolate. Melt
chocolate, dilute with hot water, cool, and add Cream Sauce
slowly to chocolate. Garnish with candied cherries and angelica
and insert strips of angelica to represent handles.

Wine Cream

Arrange lady fingers or slices of sponge cake in a dish, pour over
cream made as follows: Mix one-third cup sugar, grated rind and
juice one-half lemon, one-fourth cup Sherry wine, and yolks of two
eggs; place over fire and stir vigorously with wire whisk until it
thickens and is frothy, then pour over beaten whites of two eggs
and continue beating.

Orange Salad

Arrange layers of sliced oranges, sprinkling each layer with
powdered sugar and shredded cocoanut. Sliced oranges when
served alone should not stand long after slicing, as they are apt to
become bitter.

Fruit Salad I

Arrange alternate layers of shredded pineapple, sliced bananas,
and sliced oranges, sprinkling each layer with powdered sugar.
Chill before serving.

To Shred Pineapple. Pare and cut out eyes, pick off small pieces
with a silver fork, continuing until all soft part is removed. To
Slice Oranges. Remove skin and white covering, slice lengthwise
that the tough centre may not be served; seeds should be removed.

Fruit Salad II

Pare a pineapple and cut in one-quarter inch slices, remove hard
centres, sprinkle with powdered sugar, set aside one hour in a cool
place; drain, spread on serving dish, arrange a circle of thin slices
of banana on each piece, nearly to the edge, pile strawberries in
centre, pour over syrup drained from pineapple, sprinkle with
powdered sugar, and serve with or without Cream Sauce.

Fruit Salad with Wine Dressing

Arrange alternate layers of sliced fruit, using pineapples, bananas,
oranges, and grapes; pour over all Wine Dressing, and let stand
one hour in a cold place.

Wine Dressing

Mix one-half cup sugar, one-third cup Sherry wine, and two
tablespoons Madeira.

Cream Whips

Sweeten thin cream, flavor with vanilla, brandy, or wine, then
whip; half fill frappe glasses with any preserve, pile on lightly the
whip.

Sauted Pears with Chocolate Sauce

Pare four Bartlett pears, cut in fourths lengthwise, and saute in
butter until browned. Canned pears drained from their syrup may
be used in place of fresh fruit. Arrange in serving dish and pour
over

Chocolate Sauce. Cook two ounces sweet chocolate, one
tablespoon sugar, and one and one-fourth cups milk in double
boiler five minutes; then add one teaspoon arrow-root mixed with
one-fourth cup cream and a few grains salt, and cook ten minutes.
Melt one and one-half tablespoons butter, add one-fourth cup
powdered sugar, and cook until well caramelized, stirring
constantly. Add to first mixture, and flavor with one-half teaspoon
vanilla. Chill thoroughly.

Lemon Jelly

1/2 box gelatine or
1/2 cup cold water
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
21/2 cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in boiling
water, strain, and add to sugar and lemon juice. Turn into mould,
and chill.

Orange Jelly

1/2 box gelatine or
11/2 cups boiling water
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup sugar
11/2 cups orange juice
1/2 cup cold water
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as Lemon Jelly.

To Remove Juice from Oranges. Cut fruit in halves crosswise,
remove with spoon pulp and juice from sections, and strain
through double cheese-cloth; or use a glass lemon squeezer.

Kumquat Jelly

11/2 cups kumquat juice
11/2 tablespoons Orange Curacoa
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/4 cup Sauterne
2 tablespoons cold water
Few grains salt

Wipe three-fourths box kumquats, cut in slices, add cold water to
cover, bring slowly to boiling-point, and cook slowly one-half
hour; then strain; there should be one and one-half cups juice. Add
sugar, wine, and curacoa. Soak gelatine in cold water, and add to
first mixture heated to boiling-point; then add salt. Strain, turn into
individual mould, and chill. Remove to serving dish, and garnish
with halves of kumquats, cooked in syrup until soft, drained, and
rolled in sugar.

Coffee Jelly

1/2 box gelatine or
1/2 cup cold water
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup boiling water
1/3 cup sugar
2 cups boiled coffee

Make same as Lemon Jelly. Serve with sugar and cream.

Cider Jelly

1/2 box gelatine or
1/2 cup cold water
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup boiling water
2 cups cider
Sugar

Make same as Lemon Jelly.

Wine Jelly I

1/2 box gelatine or
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup Sherry or Madeira wine
1/2 cup cold water
1/3 cup orange juice
12/3 cups boiling water
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in boiling
water; add sugar, wine, orange juice, and lemon juice; strain,
mould, and chill. If a stronger jelly is desired, use additional wine
in place of orange juice.

Wine Jelly II
1/2 box gelatine or
1/2 cup Sherry wine
21/2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons brandy

Kirsch

1/2 cup cold water
1/3 cup orange juice
12/3 cups boiling water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup sugar
Fruit red

Soak gelatine twenty minutes in cold water, dissolve in hot water,
add sugar, fruit juices, Sherry, brandy, and enough Kirsch to make
one cup of strong liquor, then color with fruit red. Strain, mould,
and chill. Serve with or without Cream Sauce I.

Russian Jelly

1/4 box gelantine or
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup Sauterne
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup orange juice
11/2 tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as other jellies, cool slightly, and beat until frothy and
firm enough to mould. Turn into mould and chill.

Jelly in Glasses

Use recipe for Wine or Russian Jelly. Fill Apollinaris glasses
three-fourths full, reserving one-fourth of the mixture, which, after
cooling, is to be beaten until frothy (using an egg-beater) and
placed on top of jelly in glasses which represents freshly drawn
lager beer. This is a most attractive way of serving jelly to one who
is ill.

Sauterne Jelly

Soak two tablespoons granulated gelatine in one-half cup cold
water, and dissolve in one and one-half cups boiling water. Add
one and one-half cups Sauterne, three tablespoons lemon juice,
and one cup sugar. Color with leaf green, strain into a shallow pan,
chill, and cut in inch cubes.

Jellied Prunes

1/3 lb. prunes
1/2 box gelatine or
2 cups cold water
21/2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
Boiling water
1/2 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice

Pick over, wash, and soak prunes for several hours in two cups
cold water, and cook in same water until soft; remove prunes;
stone, and cut in quarters. To prune water add enough boiling
water to make two cups. Soak gelatine in half-cup cold water,
dissolve in hot liquid, add sugar, lemon juice, then strain, add
prunes, mould, and chill. Stir twice while cooling to prevent
prunes from settling. Serve with sugar and cream.

Jellied Walnuts

1/4 box gelatine or
1/3 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup Sherry wine
1/4 cup cold water
1/2 cup orange juice
3 tablespoons lemon juice

Make same as other jellies and cover bottom of shallow pan with
one-half the mixture. When nearly firm, place over it, one inch
apart, halves of English walnuts. Cover with remaining mixture.
Chill, and cut in squares. Serve with whipped cream sweetened
and flavored.

Apricot and Wine Jelly

1/2 box gelatine or
1 cup boiling water
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup apricot juice
1 cup wine
1/2 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Garnish individual moulds with halves of canned apricots, fill with
mixture made same as for other jellies, and chill. Arrange on
serving dish and garnish with whipped cream forced through a
pastry bag and tube.

Snow Pudding I
1/4 box gelatine or
1 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup lemon juice
Whites 3 eggs

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, add sugar
and lemon juice, strain, and set aside in cool place; occasionally
stir mixture, and when quite thick, beat with wire spoon or whisk
until frothy; add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue beating
until stiff enough to hold its shape. Mould, or pile by spoonfuls on
glass dish; serve cold with Boiled Custard. A very attractive dish
may be prepared by coloring half the mixture with fruit red.

Snow Pudding II

Beat whites of four eggs until stiff, add one-half tablespoon
granulated gelatine dissolved in three tablespoons boiling water,
beat until thoroughly mixed, add one-fourth cup powdered sugar,
and flavor with one-half teaspoon lemon extract. Pile lightly on
dish, serve with Boiled Custard.

Amber Pudding

Make as Snow Pudding I, using cider instead of boiling water, and
one-fourth cup boiling water to dissolve gelatine, omitting lemon
juice, and sweeten to taste.

Toasted Marshmallows

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
Whites 3 eggs
1 cup boiling water
11/2 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup sugar
Macaroons

Dissolve gelatine in boiling water, add sugar, and as soon as
dissolved set bowl containing mixture in pan of ice-water; then
add whites of eggs and vanilla and beat until mixture thickens.
Turn into a shallow pan, first dipped in cold water, and let stand
until thoroughly chilled. Remove from pan and cut in pieces the
size and shape of marshmallows; then roll in macaroons which
have been dried and rolled. Serve with sugar and cream.

Pudding a la Macedoine

Make fruit or wine jelly mixture. Place a mould in pan of
ice-water, pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate
with slices of banana from which radiate thin strips of figs , cover
fruit, adding mixture by spoonfuls lest the fruit be disarranged.
When firm, add more fruit and mixture; repeat until all is used,
each time allowing mixture to stiffen before fruit is added. In
preparing this dish various fruits may be used: oranges, bananas,
dates, figs, and English walnuts. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

Fruit Chartreuse

Make fruit or wine jelly mixture. Place a mould in pan of
ice-water, pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate
with candied cherries and angelica; add by spoonfuls more mixture
to cover fruit; when this is firm, place a smaller mould in centre on
jelly, and fill with ice-water. Pour gradually remaining jelly
mixture between moulds; when firm, invert to empty smaller
mould of ice-water; then pour in some tepid water; let stand a few
seconds, when small mould may easily be removed. Fill space thus
made with fresh sweetened fruit, using shredded pineapple, sliced
bananas, and strawberries.

Spanish Cream

1/4 box gelatine or
Yolk 3 eggs
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/2 cup sugar (scant)
1/4 teaspoon salt

3 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla or
Whites 3 eggs
3 tablespoons wine

Scald milk with gelatine, add sugar, pour slowly on yolks of eggs
slightly beaten. Return to double boiler and cook until thickened,
stirring constantly; remove from range, add salt, flavoring, and
whites of eggs beaten stiff. Turn into individual moulds, first
dipped in cold water, and chill; serve with cream. More gelatine
will be required if large moulds are used.

Coffee Souffle

11/2 cups coffee infusion
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
3 eggs
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine

Mix coffee infusion, milk, one-half of the sugar and gelatine, and
heat in double boiler. Add remaining sugar, salt, and yolks of eggs
slightly beaten; cook until mixture thickens, remove from range,
add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and vanilla. Mould, chill, and
serve with cream.

Columbian Pudding

Cover the bottom of a fancy mould with Wine Jelly. Line the upper
part of mould with figs, cut in halves cross-wise, which have been
soaked in jelly, having seed side next to mould. Fill centre with
Spanish Cream; chill, and turn on a serving dish. Garnish with
cubes of Wine Jelly.

Macaroon Cream

1/4 box gelatine or
Yolks 3 eggs

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/3 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cold water
2/3 cup pounded macaroons
2 cups scalded milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Whites 3 eggs

Soak gelatine in cold water. Make custard of milk, yolks of eggs,
sugar, and salt; add gelatine, and strain into pan set in ice-water.
Add macaroons and flavoring, stirring until it begins to thicken;
then add whites of eggs beaten stiff, mould, chill, and serve
garnished with macaroons.

Cold Cabinet Pudding

1/4 box gelatine or
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cold water
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups scalded milk
1 tablespoon brandy
Yolks 3 eggs
5 lady fingers
6 macaroons

Soak gelatine in cold water and add to custard made of milk, eggs,
sugar, salt; strain, cool slightly, and flavor Place a mould in pan of
ice-water, decorate with candied cherries and angelica, cover with
mixture, added carefully by spoonfuls; when firm, add layer of
lady fingers (first soaked in custard), then layer of macaroons (also
soaked in custard); repeat, care being taken that each layer is firm
before another is added. Garnish, and serve with Cream Sauce I
and candied cherries.

Mont Blanc
Remove shells from three cups French chestnuts, cook in small
quantity of boiling water until soft, when there will be no water
remaining. Mash, sweeten to taste with powdered sugar, and
moisten with hot milk; cook two minutes. Rub through strainer,
cool, flavor with vanilla, Kirsch or Maraschino. Pile in form of
pyramid, cover with Cream Sauce I, garnish base with Cream
Sauce I forced through pastry bag and tube. French Chef

Crme aux Fruits

1/4 box gelatine or
Whites 2 eggs
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/2 pint thick cream
1/4 cup cold water
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup scalded milk
1/3 cup cooked prunes, cut in pieces
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup chopped figs

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in scalded milk, and add
sugar. Strain in pan set in ice-water, stir constantly, and when it
begins to thicken add whites of eggs beaten stiff, cream (diluted
with milk and beaten), prunes, and figs. Mould and chill.

To Whip Cream

Thin and heavy cream are both used in making and garnishing
desserts.

Heavy cream is bought in half-pint, pint, and quart glass jars, and
usually retails at sixty cents per quart; thin or strawberry cream
comes in glass jars or may be bought in bulk, and usually retails
for thirty cents per quart. Heavy cream is very rich; for which
reason, when whipped without being diluted, it is employed as a
garnish; even when so used, it is generally diluted with one-fourth
to one-third its bulk in milk; when used in combination with other
ingredients for making desserts, it is diluted from one-half to
two-thirds its bulk in milk. Thin cream is whipped without being
diluted. Cream should be thoroughly chilled for whipping. Turn
cream to be whipped into a bowl (care being taken not to select
too large a bowl), and set in pan of crushed ice, to which water is
added that cream may be quickly chilled; without addition of
water, cream will not be so thoroughly chilled.

For whipping heavy cream undiluted, or diluted with one-third or
less its bulk in milk, use Dover egg-beater; undiluted heavy cream
if beaten a moment too long will come to butter. Heavy cream
diluted, whipped, sweetened, and flavored, is often served with
puddings, and called Cream Sauce.

Thin cream is whipped by using a whip churn, as is heavy cream
when diluted with one-half to two-thirds its bulk in milk. Place
churn in bowl containing cream, hold down cover with left hand,
with right hand work dasher with quick downward and slow
upward motions; avoid raising dasher too high in cylinder, thus
escaping spattering of cream. The first whip which appears should
be stirred into cream, as air bubbles are too large and will break;
second whip should be removed by spoonfuls to a strainer, strainer
to be placed in a pan, as some cream will drain through. The first
cream which drains through may be turned into bowl to be
rewhipped, and continue whipping as long as possible.

There will be some cream left in bowl which does not come above
perforations in whip churn, and cannot be whipped. Cream which
remains may be scalded and used to dissolve gelatine when
making desserts which require gelatine. Cream should treble its
bulk in whipping. By following these directions one need have no
difficulty, if cream is of right consistency; always bearing in mind
heavy cream must be whipped with an egg-beater; thin cream must
be whipped with a churn.

Charlotte Russe

1/4 box gelatine or
1/3 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
Whip from 31/2 cups thin cream
1/4 cup cold water
11/2 teaspoons vanilla
1/3 cup scalded cream
6 lady fingers

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in scalded cream, strain into
a bowl, and add sugar and vanilla. Set bowl in pan of ice-water and
stir constantly until it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from
cream, adding one-third at a time. Should gelatine mixture become
too thick, melt over hot water, and again cool before adding whip.
Trim ends and sides of lady fingers, place around inside of a
mould, crust side out, one-half inch apart. Turn in mixture, and
chill. Serve garnished with cubes of Wine Jelly. Charlotte Russe is
sometimes made in individual moulds; these are often garnished
on top with some of mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube.
Individual moulds are frequently lined with thin slices of sponge
cake cut to fit moulds.

Orange Trifle
1/2 box gelatine or
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup orange juice
Grated rind 1 orange
1/2 cup cold water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup boiling water
Whip from 31/2 cups cream

Make same as Charlotte Russe, and mould; or make orange jelly,
color with fruit red, and cover bottom of mould one-half inch
deep; chill, and when firm fill with Orange Trifle mixture. Cool
remaining jelly in shallow pan, cut in cubes, and garnish base of
mould.

Banana Cantaloupe

1/2 box gelatine or
2/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
4 bananas, mashed pulp
1/2 cup cold water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Whites 2 eggs
Whip from 31/2 cups
1/4 cup powdered sugar
cream
3/4 cup scalded cream
12 lady fingers

Soak gelatine in cold water, beat whites of eggs slightly, add
powdered sugar, and gradually hot cream, cook over hot water
until it thickens; add soaked gelatine and remaining sugar, strain
into a pan set in ice-water, add bananas and lemon juice, stir until
it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from cream. Line a melon
mould with lady fingers trimmed to just fit sections of mould, turn
in the mixture, spread evenly, and chill.

Chocolate Charlotte

1/4 box gelatine or
11/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
3 tablespoons hot water
2/3 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup cold water
Whip from 3 cups cream
1/3 cup scalded cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
6 lady fingers

Melt chocolate by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger
saucepan of boiling water, add half the sugar, dilute with boiling
water, and add to gelatine mixture while hot. Proceed same as in
recipe for Charlotte Russe.

Caramel Charlotte Russe

1/4 box gelatine or
1/3 cup sugar, caramelized
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/4 cup powdered sugar
11/2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 cup cold water
Whip from 31/2 cups cream
1/2 cup scalded cream
6 lady fingers

Make same as Charlotte Russe, adding caramelized sugar to
scalded cream before putting into gelatine mixture.

Burnt Almond Charlotte

1/2 box gelatine or
1/2 cup sugar, caramelized
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
3/4 cup blanched and finely chopped almonds
1/2 cup cold water
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup scalded milk
Whip from 31/2 cups cream
1/2 cup sugar
6 lady fingers

Make same as Caramel Charlotte Russe, adding nuts before
folding in cream.

Ginger Cream

1/4 box gelatine or
Few grains salt
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 tablespoon wine
1/2 tablespoon brandy
1/4 cup cold water
2 tablespoons ginger syrup
1 cup milk
1/4 cup Canton ginger, cut in pieces
Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
Whip from 21/2 cups cream

Soak gelatine, and add to custard made of milk, eggs, sugar, and
salt. Strain, chill in pan of ice-water, add flavorings, and when it
begins to thicken fold in whip from cream.

Orange Charlotte

1/3 box gelatine or
1 cup sugar
11/3 tablespoons granulated gelatine
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup orange juice and pulp
1/3 cup cold water
Whites 3 eggs
1/3 cup boiling water
Whip from 2 cups cream

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, strain, and
add sugar, lemon juice, orange juice, and pulp. Chill in pan of
ice-water; when quite thick, beat with wire spoon or whisk until
frothy, then add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and fold in cream. Line
a mould with sections of oranges, turn in mixture, smooth evenly,
and chill.

Strawberry Sponge

1/3 box gelatine or
1 cup sugar
11/3 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup strawberry juice
1/3 cup cold water
Whites 3 eggs
1/3 cup boiling water
Whip from 3 cups cream

Make same as Orange Charlotte.

Orange Baskets

Cut two pieces from each orange, leaving what remains in shape of
basket with handle, remove pulp from baskets and pieces, and
keep baskets in ice-water until ready to fill From orange juice
make orange jelly with which to fill baskets. Serve garnished with
Cream Sauce.

Orange Jelly in Ambush

Cut oranges in halves lengthwise, remove pulp and juice. With
juice make Orange Jelly to fill half the pieces. Fill remaining
pieces with Charlotte Russe mixture. When both are firm, put
together in pairs and tie together with narrow white ribbon.

Bavarian Cream (Quick)

1/2 lemon, grated rind and juice
2 eggs
1 teaspoon granulated gelatine
1/2 cup white wine
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cold water

Mix lemon, wine, sugar, and yolks of eggs; stir vigorously over fire
until mixture thickens, add gelatine soaked in water, then pour
over whites of eggs beaten stiff. Set in pan of ice-water and beat
until thick enough to hold its shape. Turn into a mould lined with
lady fingers, and chill. Orange juice may be used in place of wine,
and the cream served in orange baskets.

Strawberry Bavarian Cream
Line a mould with large, fresh strawberries cut in halves, fill with
Charlotte Russe mixture.

Pineapple Bavarian Cream

1/2 box gelatine or
1 can grated pineapple
2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup cold water
Whip from 3 cups cream

Soak gelatine in cold water. Heat pineapple, add sugar, lemon
juice, and soaked gelatine; chill in pan of ice-water, stirring
constantly; when it begins to thicken, fold in whip from cream,
mould, and chill.

Royal Diplomatic Pudding

Place mould in pan of ice-water and pour in Wine Jelly II one-half
inch deep. When firm, decorate with candied cherries and
angelica, proceed as for Fruit Chartreuse, filling the centre with
Charlotte Russe mixture or Fruit Cream.

Fruit Cream

Peel four bananas, mash, and rub through a sieve; add pulp and
juice of two oranges, one tablespoon lemon juice, one tablespoon
Sherry wine, two-thirds cup powdered sugar, and one and
one-fourth tablespoons granulated gelatine dissolved in one-fourth
cup boiling water. Cool in ice-water, stirring constantly, and fold
in whip from two cups cream.

Ivory Cream

3/4 tablespoon granulated gelatine
4 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 tablespoon cold water
2 tablespoons boiling water
3 tablespoons Madeira wine
3 cups cream

Soak gelatine in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, and add
sugar and wine. Strain into a bowl, set in pan of ice-water, and
beat until mixture thickens slightly. Add to mixture whip from
cream, and beat until mixture is thick enough to hold its shape.
Mould and chill. Garnish with Sauterne Jelly.

Pudding a I'Adrea

2 cups thin cream
Whites 4 eggs
11/2 tablespoons granulated gelatine
3 tablespoons Sherry
2 tablespoons cold water
11/2 tablespoons Sauterne
3/4 cup sugar
Sauterne jelly mixture

Make one-half recipe for Sauterne Jelly , allowing one and
one-half tablespoons granulated gelatine. Color one-half green and
one-half red. Fill sections of a fancy mould alternately with green
and red jelly. In the green jelly mould pistachio nuts cut in
quarters; in red jelly glaced cherries cut in quarters.

Scald cream, add gelatine soaked in cold water, and sugar. When
mixture begins to thicken add whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Set
in pan of ice-water, and stir occasionally until mixture thickens;
then add flavoring and turn into mould. Chill thoroughly and
remove from mould.

French Easter Cream

1/3 cup raisins
1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1/4 cup brandy
2 tablespoons cold water

2 cups cream
Maraschino
1/4 cup each
1/2 cup sugar
Slow gin
Yolks 3 eggs
Brandy
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Seed raisins, add brandy, and cook in double boiler until raisins
are soft. Make a custard of cream, sugar, egg yolks and salt.
Remove from range, add gelatine soaked in cold water. Strain,
cool slightly, add flavorings, stir until mixture thickens, then add
raisins. Mould and chill. Remove from mould, and garnish with
Sauterne Jelly (colored violet), cut in cubes, and fresh violets.

Marshmallow Pudding a la Stanley

1/2 pound marshmallows
1/4 cup candied cherries
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup English walnut meats
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Soak cherries in rum to cover one hour, then cut in pieces. Cut
walnut meats and marshmallows in small pieces. Whip cream, add
sugar and vanilla, fold in remaining ingredients. Mould and chill.

Chapter XXVI. ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS.

ICES and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts.
Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final
course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the
stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is
again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when
properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room!

Frozen dishes include: 

Water Ice, fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen.

Sherbet, water ice to which is added a small quantity of dissolved
gelatine or beaten whites of eggs.

Frappe, water ice frozen to consistency of mush; in freezing, equal
parts of salt and ice being used to make it granular.



Punch, water ice to which is added spirit and spice.

Sorbet, strictly speaking, frozen punch; the name is often given to
a water ice where several kinds of fruit are used.

Philadelphia Ice Cream, thin cream, sweetened, flavored, and
frozen.

Plain Ice Cream, custard foundation, thin cream, and flavoring.

Mousse, heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored,
placed in a mould, packed in salt and ice (using two parts crushed
ice to one part salt), and allowed to stand three hours; or whip
from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small
quantity of gelatine.

How to Freeze Desserts

The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has
long since been overcome. With ice cream freezer, burlap bag,
wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient ice and coarse
rock salt, the process neither takes much time nor patience. Snow
may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by salt, pour in
one cup cold water. Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a
few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse
pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in
wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can
fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of salt, and
repeat until ice and salt come to top of can, packing solidly, using
handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be
frozen, the ice and salt need come only a little higher in the tub
than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of
ice and salt to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water
ice, while equal parts of salt and ice are used for freezing frappe. If
a larger proportion of salt is used, mixture will freeze in shorter
time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for
frappe.

The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should
never be more than three-fourths filled; by over-crowding can,
cream will be made coarse-grained. Turn the crank slowly and
steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and
salt. After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly,
adding more ice and salt if needed; never draw off salt water until
mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the
can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no
change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off
water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in
opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four
measures ice to one of salt. Place over top newspapers or piece of
carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, and
place in vessel of cool water; let stand one minute, remove cover,
and run a knife around edge of cream, invert can on serving dish,
and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a
cloth wrung out of hot water, passed over can, will aid in removing
mixture.

To Line a Mould
Allow mould to stand in salt and ice until well chilled. Remove
cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon
or a case knife evenly three-quarters inch thick.

To Mould Frozen Mixtures

When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid
freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with
buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that
mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed
down. Re-pack in salt and ice, using four parts ice to one part salt.
If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that
salt water will enter cream, even though moulds be immersed in
salt water.

Lemon Ice

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
3/4 cup lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar five minutes; add lemon
juice; cool, strain, and freeze. See directions for freezing, page
434.

Cup St.Jacques

Serve Lemon Ice in champagne glasses. Put three-fourths teaspoon
Maraschino in each glass, and garnish with bananas cut in
one-fourth inch slices, and slices cut in quarters, candied cherries
cut in halves, Malaga grapes from which skins and seeds have
been removed, and angelica cut in strips.

Orange Ice

4 cups water
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 cups sugar
Grated rind of two oranges
2 cups orange juice

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice; add fruit juice and grated rind; cool,
strain, and freeze.

Maraschino Ice
Prepare Orange Ice mixture, freeze to a mush, flavor with
Maraschino, and finish freezing. Serve in frappe glasses.

Pomegranate Ice

Same as Orange Ice, made from blood oranges.

Raspberry Ice I

4 cups water
2 cups raspberry juice
1 2/3 cups sugar
2tablespoons lemon juice

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, cool, add raspberries mashed, and
squeezed through double cheese-cloth, and lemon juice; strain and
freeze.

Raspberry Ice II

1 quart raspberries
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
Lemon juice

Sprinkle raspberries with sugar, cover, and lot stand two hours.
Mash, squeeze through cheese-cloth, add water and lemon juice to
taste, then freeze. Raspberry ice prepared in this way retains the
natural color of the fruit.

Strawberry Ice I

4 cups water
2 cups strawberry juice
11/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

Strawberry Ice II

1 quart box strawberries
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
Lemon juice
Make same as Raspberry Ice II.

Currant Ice

4 cups water
11/2 cups sugar
2 cups currant juice

Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I.

Raspberry and Currant Ice

4 cups water
2/3 cups raspberry juice
11/3 cups water
11/3 cups currant juice

Prepare and freeze same Raspberry Ice I.

Crme de Menthe Ice

4 cups water
1/3 cup Crme de Menthe cordial
1 cup sugar
Green coloring

Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, add cordial and coloring; strain
and freeze.

Icebergs

Dissolve two cups sugar in three cups boiling water; cool, add
three-fourths cup lemon juice, color with leaf green, and freeze.
Serve in champagne glasses. Put one teaspoon crme de menthe in
each glass, and sprinkle with finely chopped nut meats, using
almonds, filberts, pecans, and walnuts in equal proportions. These
may be used after the roast and before the game.

Canton Sherbet

4 cups water
1/4 lb. Canton ginger
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
1/3 cup lemon juice
Cut ginger in small pieces, add water and sugar, boil fifteen
minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in
place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve
twelve persons.

Milk Sherbet

4 cups milk
11/2 cups sugar
Juice 3 lemons

Mix juice and sugar, stirring constantly while slowly adding milk;
if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which
is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and
serve.

Frozen Chocolate with Whipped Cream

2 squares unsweetened chocolate
Few grains salt
1 cup sugar
1 cup boiling water
3 cups rich milk

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot
water, add one-half the sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water.
Boil five minutes, add to scalded milk with remaining sugar. Cool,
freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with whipped cream
sweetened and flavored with vanilla.

Pineapple Frappe

2 cups water
2 cups ice-water
1 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple or
Juice 3 lemons
1 pineapple shredded

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen minutes; add
pineapple and lemon juice; cool, strain, add ice-water, and freeze
to a mush, using equal parts ice and salt. If fresh fruit is used, more
sugar will be required.

Pineapple Sorbet
2 cups water
11/3 cups orange juice
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 can grated pineapple or
1 quart Appollinaris
1 pineapple shredded

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappe.

Sicilian Sorbet

1 can peaches
2 cups orange juice
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Press peaches through a sieve, add sugar and fruit juices. Freeze
and serve.

Italian Sorbet

4 cups water
11/2 cups grape fruit juice
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice
11/2 cups orange juice
1/4 cup wine

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappe.

Apricot Sorbet

1 can apricots
1/2 cup wine
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 pint cream

Drain apricots, and add to syrup the pulp rubbed through a sieve.
Add sugar, wine, and lemon juice. Freeze to a mush, then fold in
the whip obtained from cream. Let stand one and one-half hours,
and serve in glasses.

Cafe Frappe
White 1 egg
1/2 cup ground coffee
1/2 cup cold water
4 cups boiling water
1 cup sugar

Beat white of egg slightly, add cold water, and mix with coffee
turn into scalded coffee-pot, add boiling water, and let boil one
minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add sugar, cool,
and freeze same as Pineapple Frappe. Serve in frappe glasses, with
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored.

Cranberry Frappe

1 quart cranberries
2 cups sugar
2 cups water
Juice 2 lemons

Cook cranberries and water eight minutes; then force through a
sieve. Add sugar and lemon juice, and freeze to a mush, using
equal parts of ice and salt.

Grape Frappe

4 cups water
2 cups grape juice
2 cups sugar
2/3 cup orange juice
1/4 cup lemon juice

Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappe.

Pomona Frappe

11/2 cups sugar
1 quart sweet cider
4 cups water
2 cups orange juice

1/2 cup lemon juice

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water twenty minutes. Add
cider, orange juice, and lemon juice. Cool, strain, and freeze to a
mush.
Clam Frappe

20 clams
1/2 cup cold water

Wash clams thoroughly, changing water several times; put in
stewpan with cold water, cover closely, and steam until shells
open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush.

Frozen Cranberries

4 cups cranberries
21/4 cups sugar
11/2 cups boiling water

Pick over and wash cranberries, add water and sugar, and cook ten
minutes, skimming during the cooking. Rub through a sieve, cool,
and pour into one-pound baking-powder boxes. Pack in salt and
ice, using equal parts, and let stand four hours. If there is not
sufficient mixture to fill two boxes, add water to make up the
desired quantity. Serve as a substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly.

Frozen Apricots

1 can apricots
11/2 cups sugar
Water

Drain apricots, and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough
water to make four cups, and cook with sugar five minutes; strain,
add apricots, cool, and freeze. Peaches may be used instead of
apricots. To make a richer dessert, add the whip from two cups
cream when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing.

Pineapple Cream

2 cups water
1 can grated pineapple
1 cup sugar
2 cups cream

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes; strain,
cool, add pineapple, and freeze to a mush. Fold in whip from
cream; let stand thirty minutes before serving. Serve in frappe
glasses and garnish with candied pineapple.
Cardinal Punch

4 cups water
1/3 cup lemon juice
2 cups sugar
1/4 cup brandy
2/3 cup orange juice
1/4 cup Curacoa
1/4 cup tea infusion

Make syrup as for Lemon Ice, add fruit juice and tea, freeze to a
mush; add strong liquors and continue freezing. Serve in frappe
glasses.

Punch Hollandaise

4 cups water
Rind one lemon
11/3 cups sugar
1 can grated pineapple
1/3 cup lemonjuice
1/4 cup brandy
2 tablespoons gin

Cook sugar, water, and lemon rind fifteen minutes, add lemon
juice and pineapple, cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong
liquors, and continue freezing. Serve in frappe glasses on a plate
covered with a doiley.

Victoria Punch

31/2 cups water
Grated rind two oranges
2 cups sugar
1 cup angelica wine
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 cup cider
1/2 cup orange juice
11/2 tablespoons gin

Prepare same as Cardinal Punch; strain before freezing, to remove
orange rind.

Lenox Punch

2 cups water
1 cup orange juice
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice
2/3 tumbler currant jelly
2 bottles ginger ale
Ice
1/3 cup brandy

Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes. Add
jelly, and, as soon as dissolved, add a piece of ice to cool mixture;
then add and fruit juices, ale, and brandy. Color red, freeze to a
mush, serve in glasses, and insert in each glass a small sprig of
holly with berries.

German Punch

2 cups water
1 cup sugar
13/4 cups tomatoes
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 apples, cored, pared, and chopped
Piece ginger root
3 tablespoons Maraschino

Mix ingredients, expect cordial, and cook thirty-five minuted. Rub
through a sieve, add Maraschino, and freeze to a mush.

London Sherbet

2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cups water
1 cup fruit syrup
1/3 cup seeded and finely cut raisins
1/4 grated nutmeg
1/4 cup port wine
3/4 cup orange juice
Whites 3 eggs

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; pour over
raisins, cool, and add fruit syrup and nutmeg; freeze to a mush,
then add wine and whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue
freezing. Serve in glasses. Fruit syrup may be used which has been
left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries.
Roman Punch

4 cups water
1/2 cup orange juice
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup tea infusion
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup rum

Prepare and freeze same as Cardinal Punch.

Coup Sicilienne

1 shredded pineapple
2 tablespoons Maraschino
3 oranges (pulp)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 bananas sliced
Few grains salt
Powdered sugar

Mix ingredients, sweeten to taste, and chill. Serve in champagne
glasses having glasses two-thirds full. Cover fruit to fill glasses
with Strawberry Ice II and garnish with strawberries and angelica.

Coup a I'Ananas

Cut canned sliced pineapple in pieces, pour over pineapple syrup
to which is added Orange Curaoa, allowing one-half as much
syrup as fruit, cover and let stand one hour. Fill champagne glasses
one-third full, add vanilla ice cream to fill glasses, and garnish
with candied cherries and candied pineapple cut in pieces.

Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia)

1 quart thin cream
3/4 cup sugar

11/2 tablespoons vanilla

Mix ingredients, and freeze.

Vanilla Ice Cream II

2 cups scalded milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 quart thin cream
2 tablespoons vanilla

Mix flour, sugar, and salt, add egg slightly beaten, and milk
gradually; cook over hot water twenty minutes, stirring constantly
at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear
in freezing. When cool, add cream and flavoring; strain and freeze.

Chocolate Sauce I
(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)

11/2 cups water
1 tablespoon arrowroot
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup cold water
6 tablespoons grated chocolate
Few grains salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Boil water and sugar five minutes. Mix chocolate with arrowroot
to which water has been added. Combine mixtures, add salt, and
boil three minutes. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot.

Chocolate Sauce II

1 square unsweetened chocolate
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup boiling water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate; add butter, and pour on gradually water. Bring to
boiling-point, add sugar, and let boil five minutes, cool slightly,
and add vanilla.

Coffee Sauce
(To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream)
11/2 cups milk
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup ground coffee
3/4 tablespoon arrowroot
Few grains salt

Scald milk with coffee, and let stand twenty minutes. Mix
remaining ingredients, and pour on gradually the hot infusion
which has been strained. Cook five minutes, and serve hot.

Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes

Shape Vanilla Ice Cream in individual moulds, roll in macaroon
dust made by pounding and sifting dry macaroons.

Chocolate Ice Cream I

1 quart thin cream
11/2 squares unsweetened chocolate or
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup prepared cocoa
Few grains salt
1 tablespoon vanilla

Melt chocolate, and dilute with hot water to pour easily, add to
cream; then add sugar, salt, and flavoring, and freeze.

Chocolate Ice Cream II

Use recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II. Melt two squares
unsweetened chocolate, by placing in a small saucepan set in a
larger saucepan of boiling water, and pour hot custard slowly on
chocolate; then cool before adding cream.

Strawberry Ice Cream I

3 pints thin cream
2 cups sugar
2 boxes berries
Few grains salt

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and let stand
two hours. Mash, and squeeze through cheese-cloth; then add salt.
Freeze cream to the consistency of a mush, add gradually fruit
juice, and finish freezing. Rice Jersey milk may be substituted for
cream.

Strawberry Ice Cream II

3 pints thin cream
13/4 cups sugar
2 boxes strawberries
2 cups milk
11/2 tablespoons arrowroot

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, let stand one hour,
mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups milk;
dilute arrowroot with remaining milk, add to hot milk, and cook
ten minutes in double boiler; cool, add cream, freeze to a mush,
add fruit, and finish freezing.

Orange Ice Cream

1 cup heavy cream
2 cups orange juice
1 cup thin cream
Sugar

Add cream slowly to orange juice, sweeten to taste, and freeze.
Serve with canned strawberries or fresh fruit mashed and
sweetened.

Pineapple Ice Cream

3 pints cream
1/2 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple

Add pineapple to cream, let stand thirty minutes; strain, add sugar,
and freeze.

Coffee Ice Cream

1 quart cream
11/4 cups sugar
11/2 cups milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup Mocha coffee
Yolks 4 eggs

Scald milk with coffee, add one cup sugar; mix egg yolks slightly
beaten with one-fourth cup sugar, and salt; combine mixtures,
cook over hot water until thickened, add one cup cream, and let
stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining
cream, and strain through double cheese-cloth; freeze. Coffee Ice
Cream may be served with Maras-chino cherries or in halves of
cantaloupes.

Caramel Ice Cream

1 quart cream
1 egg
2 cups milk
1 tablespoon flour
11/3 cups sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons vanilla

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half sugar in
custard; remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard.
See Caramelization of Sugar, page 586.

Burnt Almond Ice Cream
It is made same as Caramel Ice Cream, with the addition of one
cup finely chopped blanched almonds.

Brown Bread Ice Cream

3 pints cream
7/8 cup sugar
11/4 cups dried brown bread crumbs
1/4 teaspoon salt

Soak crumbs in one quart cream, let stand fifteen minutes, rub
through sieve, add sugar, salt, and remaining cream; then freeze.

Bisque Ice Cream

Make custard as for Vanilla Ice Cream II, add one quart cream,
one tablespoon vanilla, and one cup hickory nut or English walnut
meats finely chopped.

Burnt Walnut Bisque

2 cups scalded milk
2/3 cup chopped walnut meats
Yolks 3 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup sugar
3/4 tablespoon vanilla
Few grains salt

Make custard of milk, eggs, one-third of the sugar, and salt.
Caramelize remaining sugar, add nut meats, and turn into a slightly
buttered pan. Cool, pound, and pass through a puree strainer. Add
to custard, cool, then add one cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff,
and vanilla. Freeze and mould.

Praline Ice Cream

3 pints cream
1 cup Jordan almonds
11/3 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla

Blanch almonds cut in pieces crosswise, and bake in a shallow pan
until well browned, shaking pan frequently; then finely chop.
Caramelize one-half of the sugar, and add slowly to two cups of
the cream scalded. As soon as sugar is melted, add nuts, remaining
sugar, and salt. Cool, add remaining cream, and freeze. A few
grains salt is always an improvement to any ice cream mixture.

Macaroon Ice Cream

1 quart cream
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup macaroons
1 tablespoon vanilla

Dry, pound, and measure macaroons; add to cream, sugar, and
vanilla, then freeze.

Banana Ice Cream

1 quart cream
11/3 tablespoons lemon juice
4 bananas
1 cup sugar
A few grains salt

Remove skins and scrape bananas, then force through a sieve; add
remaining ingredients; then freeze.

Ginger Ice Cream

To recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half quantity vanilla,
add one-half cup Canton ginger cut in small pieces, three
tablespoons ginger syrup, and two tablespoons Sherry wine; then
freeze.

Pistachio Ice Cream

Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using for flavoring one
tablespoon vanilla and one teaspoon almond extract; color with
Burnett's Leaf Green.

Pistachio Bisque

To Pistachio Ice Cream add one-half cup each of pounded
macaroons, chopped almonds, and peanuts. Mould, and serve with
or without Claret Sauce.

Fig Ice Cream

3 cups milk
1 lb. figs, finely chopped
1 cup sugar
11/2 cups heavy cream
Yolks 5 eggs
Whites 5 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 tablespoons brandy

Make custard of yolks of eggs, sugar, and milk; strain, add figs,
cool, and flavor. Add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and heavy
cream beaten until stiff; freeze and mould.

Junket Ice Cream with Peaches

4 cups lukewarm milk
1 tablespoon cold water
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla
11/4 cups sugar
1 teaspoon almond extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
Green Coloring
11/2 Junket Tablets
1 can peaches

Mix first four ingredients, and add junket tablets dissolved in cold
water. Turn into a pudding-dish and let stand until set. Add
flavoring and coloring. Freeze, mould, and serve garnished with
halves of peaches, filling cavities with halves of blanched
almonds. Turn peaches into a saucepan, add one-third cup sugar,
and cook slowly until syrup is thick. Cool before garnishing ice
cream.

Violet Ice Cream

1 quart cream
1/3 cup Yvette Cordial
3/4 cup sugar
1 small bunch violets
Few grains salt
Violet coloring

Mix first four ingredients. Remove stems from violets, and pound
violets in a mortar until well macerated, then strain through
cheese-cloth. Add extract to first mixture; color, freeze, and
mould. Serve garnished with fresh or candied violets; the light
purple cultivated violets should be used and the result will be most
gratifying.

Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream

Two kinds of ice cream and an ice moulded in a brick.

Baked Alaska

Whites 6 eggs
2 quart brick of ice cream
6 tablespoons powdered sugar
Thin sheet sponge cake

Make meringue of eggs and sugar as in Meringue I, cover a board
with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn ice cream on cake
(which should extend one-half inch beyond cream), cover with
meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown
quickly in hot oven. The board, paper, cake, and meringue are poor
conductors of heat, and prevent the cream from melting. Slip from
paper on ice cream platter.
Pudding Glace

2 cups milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup raisins
1 quart thin cream
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup almonds
1 egg
1/2 cup candied pineapple
1 tablespoon flour
1/3 cup Canton ginger
3 tablespoons wine

Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk,
egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in
small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze.
The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.

Frozen Pudding I

21/2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup rum
1/8 teaspoonful salt
1 cup candied fruit, cherries, pineapples, pears, and apricots
2 eggs

Cut fruit in small pieces, and soak two or three hours in brandy to
cover, which prevents fruit from freezing; make a custard of milk,
sugar, salt, and eggs; strain, cool, add cream and rum, then freeze.
Fill a brick mould with alternate layers of the cream and fruit;
pack in salt and ice and let stand two hours.

Frozen Pudding II

1 quart cream
1/4 cup rum
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup candied fruit
8 lady fingers

Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in brandy to cover. Mix
cream, sugar, and rum, then freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould
with lady fingers, crust side down; fill with alternate layers of the
cream and fruit, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two
hours. Brandied peaches cut in pieces, with some of their syrup
added, greatly improve the pudding.

Frozen Tom and Jerry

2 cups milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
21/2 cups cream
Yolks 6 eggs
2 tablespoons rum
1 tablespoon brandy

Make a custard of first four ingredients; strain, cool, add cream,
and freeze to a mush. Add rum and brandy, and finish the freezing.

University Pudding

Prepare same as Frozen Tom and Jerry. Freeze to a mush, add one
cup mixed fruit which has been soaked in brandy to cover for
twelve hours, using glace cherries, Sultana raisins, sliced citron,
and candied pineapple; then finish freezing. Serve in small beer
jugs, and garnish with cream, whipped, sweetened, and flavored.

Covington Cream

3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup rum
1/2 cup Formosa tea infusion
1 quart cream

Mix ingredients, and freeze to a mush. Serve in frappe glasses.

87
Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food

2 cups milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup sugar
21/2 cups thin cream
Yolks 7 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 teaspoon lemon
Make custard of milk, sugar, eggs, and salt; cool, strain, and
flavor; whip cream, remove whip; there should be two quarts; add
to custard, and freeze. Serve plain or with Angel Food.

Angel Food

Whites 3 eggs
1 quart cream whip
1/2 cup powdered sugar
11/2 teaspoons vanilla

Beat eggs until stiff, fold in sugar, cream whip, and flavoring; line
a mould with Delmonico Ice Cream, fill with the mixture, cover,
pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

Manhattan Pudding
11/2 cups orange juice
1 pint heavy cream
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup powdered sugar
Sugar
1/2 tablespoon vanilla
2/3 cup chopped walnut meats

Mix fruit juices and sweeten to taste. Turn mixture in brick mould.
Whip cream, and add sugar, vanilla, and nut meats; pour over the
first mixture to overflow mould; cover with buttered paper, fit on
cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce

Line one-pound baking-powder boxes with Pistachio Ice Cream;
sprinkle with Sultana raisins which have been soaked one hour in
brandy; fill centres with Vanilla Ice Cream or whipped cream,
sweetened, and flavored with vanilla; cover with Pistachio Ice
Cream; pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours.

Claret Sauce

1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup claret

Boil sugar and water eight minutes; cool slightly, and add claret.

Angel Parfait

1 cup sugar
Whites 3 eggs
3/4 cup water
1 pint heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla

Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread when dropped from tip
of spoon. Pour slowly on the beaten whites of eggs, and continue
the beating until mixture is cool. Add cream beaten until stiff, and
vanilla; then freeze.

Cafe Parfait

1 cup milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup Mocha coffee
1 cup sugar
Yolks 3 eggs
3 cups thin cream

Scald milk with coffee, and add one-half the sugar; without
straining, use this mixture for making custard, with eggs, salt, and
remaining sugar; add one cup cream and let stand thirty minutes;
cool, strain through double cheese-cloth, add remaining cream,
and freeze. Line a mould, fill with Italian Meringue, cover, pack in
salt and ice, using two parts crushed ice to one part rock salt, and
let stand three hours.

Italian Meringue

1/2 cup sugar
Whites 3 eggs
1/4 cup water
1 cup thin cream
1 tablespoon gelatine or
1/2 tablespoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon granulated gelatine

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water; pour slowly on beaten
whites of eggs, and continue beating. Place in pan of ice-water,
and beat until cold; dissolve gelatine in small quantity boiling
water; strain into mixture; whip cream, fold in whip, and flavor.

Bombe Glacee
Line a mould with sherbet or water ice; fill with ice cream or thin
Charlotte Russe mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand
two hours. The mould may be lined with ice cream. Pomegranate
or Raspberry Ice and Vanilla or Macaroon Ice Cream make a good
combination.

Noisette Bomb

Strawberry Ice I
3/4 cup hot caramel syrup
1/2 cup sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
1/2 cup chopped blanched filberts
11/3 cups heavy cream
1/2 tablespoon vanilla
Few grains salt

Caramelize sugar, add nut meats, turn into a buttered pan, cool,
then pound in mortar and put through a puree strainer. Beat egg
yolks until thick, add gradually caramel syrup, and cook in double
boiler until mixture thickens; then beat until cold. Fold in cream
beaten until stiff. Then add prepared nut meats, vanilla, and salt.
Line melon mould with ice, turn in mixture, pack in salt and ice,
and let stand three hours.

Nesselrode Pudding

3 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups sugar
1 pint thin cream
Yolks 5 eggs
1/4 cup pineapple syrup
11/2 cups French Marrons

Make custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool, add cream,
pineapple syrup, and marrons forced through a puree strainer; then
freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould with part of mixture; to
remainder add one-half cup candied fruit cut in small pieces,
one-quarter cup Sultana raisins, and six marrons broken in pieces,
first soaked several hours in Maraschino syrup. Fill mould, cover,
pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with whipped
cream, sweetened and flavored with Maraschino syrup.

Pistachio Fruit Ice Cream

3 cups milk
11/2 cups chestnut puree
11/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon almond extract
Yolks 5 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup glace fruits
1 pint heavy cream
Maraschino
Green coloring

Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add cream,
chestnut puree, flavoring, and glace fruit cut in pieces and
previously soaked in Maraschino three hours. Color with leaf
green; freeze, mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.
Serve with

Fruit Sauce. Drain syrup from a pint jar of canned strawberry,
raspberry, or pineapple, heat to boiling-point, thicken slightly with
arrowroot, and color with fruit red.

Nougat Ice Cream

3 cups milk
Whites 5 eggs
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup, each, pistachio, filbert, English walnut, and almond meats
Yolks 5 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract
11/2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla

Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, and cool. Add
heavy cream beaten until stiff, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, nut
meats finely chopped, and flavoring; then freeze.

Orange Pekoe Ice Cream

2 cups milk
Yolks 4 eggs
3 tablespoons Orange Pekoe tea
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups sugar
Grated rind 1 orange
1 pint heavy cream

Scald milk to which tea had been added, and let stand five
minutes. Add sugar, and egg yolks slightly beaten, and cook until
mixture thickens. Strain, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and
mould. Serve garnished with Candied Orange Peel (p. 547).

Orange Delicious

2 cups sugar
1 cup cream
1 cup water
Yolks two eggs
2 cups Orange juice
1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup shredded candied orange peel

Boil sugar and water eight minutes, then add orange juice. Scald
cream, add yolks of eggs, and cook over hot water until mixture
thickens. Cool, add to first mixture with heavy cream beaten stiff.
Freeze; when nearly frozen, add orange peel. Line a melon mould
with Orange Ice, fill with Orange Delicious, pack in salt and ice,
and let stand one and one-half hours.

Strawberry Mousse

1 quart thin cream
1/4 box gelatine (scant) or
1 box strawberries
11/4 tablespoons granulated gelatine
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cold water
3 tablespoons hot water

Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand one hour;
mash, and rub through a fine sieve; add gelatine soaked in cold
and dissolved in boiling water. Set in pan of ice-water and stir
until it begins to thicken; then fold in whip from cream, put in
mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.
Raspberries may be used in place of strawberries.

Coffee Mousse

Make same as Strawberry Mousse, using one cup boiled coffee in
place of fruit juice.

Pineapple Mousse

1 tablespoon granulated gelatine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
1 cup pineapple syrup
1 quart cream

Heat one can pineapple, and drain. To one cup of the syrup, add
gelatine soaked in cold water, lemon juice, and sugar. Strain and
cool. As mixture thickens, fold in the whip from cream. Mould,
pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.

Chocolate Mousse

2 squares unsweetened chocolate
3 tablespoons boiling water
1/2 cup powdered sugar
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 tablespoon granulated gelatine
1 quart cream

Melt chocolate, add powdered sugar, and gradually one cup cream.
Stir over fire until boiling-point is reached, then add gelatine
dissolved in boiling water, sugar, and vanilla. Strain mixture into a
bowl, set in a pan of ice-water, stir constantly until mixture
thickens, then fold in the whip from remaining cream. Mould,
pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.

Maple Parfait

4 eggs
1 cup hot maple syrup
1 pint thick cream

Beat eggs slightly, and pour on slowly maple syrup. Cook until
mixture thickens, cool, and add cream beaten until stiff. Mould,
pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

Mousse Marron

1 quart vanilla ice cream
1 teaspoon granulated gelatine
1/2 cup sugar
11/2 cups prepared French chestnuts
1/4 cup water
1 pint cream
Whites two eggs
1/2 tablespoon vanilla

Cook sugar and water five minutes, pour on to beaten whites of
eggs, dissolve gelatine in one and one-half tablespoons boiling
water, and add to first mixture. Set in a pan of ice-water, and stir
until cold; add chestnuts, and fold in whip from cream and vanilla.
Line a mould with ice cream, and fill with mixture; cover, pack in
salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce

Line a mould with Pomegranate Ice; fill with Italian Meringue
made of three-fourths cup sugar, one-third cup hot water, whites
two eggs, and one and one-half teaspoons granulated gelatine
dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water. Beat until cold, and
fold in whip from two cups cream; flavor with one teaspoon
vanilla, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.

Iced Madeira Sauce

1/4 cup orange juice
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup Madeira wine
Whites 2 eggs

Freeze fruit juice and wine; boil sugar and water, pour on slowly to
beaten whites of eggs, set in pan of salted ice-water, and stir until
cold. Add to frozen mixture.

Cocoanut Naples, Sauterne Sauce

Shape vanilla ice cream in individual moulds, and roll in shredded
cocoanut; serve with

Sauterne Sauce

1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons Sauterne
1/2 cup water
Green coloring

Make same as Claret Sauce, and color with leaf green.

Ice a la Margot

Serve vanilla ice cream in champagne glasses. Cover ice cream
with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored with pistachio, and
tinted very light green. Garnish with pistachio nuts or Malaga
grapes cut in halves.

Coup aux Marrons

Break marron glace in pieces, flavor with rum, cover, and let stand
one hour. Put in champagne glasses, allowing one and one-half
marrons to each glass, cover with vanilla ice cream, and garnish
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and
candied rose leaves.

Plombiere Glace

Cover the bottom of small paper cases with vanilla ice cream,
sprinkle ice cream with marron glace broken in pieces, arrange
lady fingers at equal distances, and allow them to extend one inch
above cases. Pile whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, in the
centre and garnish with marron glace and candied violets or glace
cherries.

Demi-glace aux Fraises

Line a brick mould with Vanilla Ice Cream, put in layer of lady
fingers, and fill the centre with preserved strawberries or large
fresh fruit cut in halves; cover with ice cream, pack in salt and ice,
and let stand one hour. For ice cream, make custard of two and
one-half cups milk, yolks four eggs, one cup sugar, and one-fourth
teaspoon salt; strain, cool, add one cup heavy cream and one
tablespoon vanilla; then freeze.

Mazarine

Bake Brioche in a Charlotte Russe mould or individual tins, cool,
cut a slice from top of cake or cakes, and remove centre or centres,
leaving a wall or walls one-half inch thick. Fill with rich Vanilla
Ice Cream, invert on serving dish, and pour over

Apricot Marmalade. Drain one can apricots and force the fruit
through a strainer. Cook syrup until sufficiently reduced to add to
fruit, and make of consistency of marmalade. Add a few drops
lemon juice and sugar if necessary. Decorate top with halves of
apricots, glace cherries, and whipped cream.

Flowering Ice Cream
Line two and one-half inch flower-pots with paraffine paper. Fill
with ice cream, cover cream with grated vanilla chocolate to
represent earth, and insert a flower in each.

Concord Cream

1 pint cream
Lemon or fresh lime juice
11/4 cups grape juice
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup sugar
Pistachio nuts, finely chopped

Mix cream, grape juice, and sugar. Add lemon or lime juice to
taste. Freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with heavy cream
beaten until stiff, sweetened, and flavored. Sprinkle cream with
nuts.

German Ice Cream

Mix one and one-fourth cups sugar, one tablespoon flour, and
one-fourth teaspoon salt. Add two eggs slightly beaten and two
cups scalded milk. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens,
then add two squares melted chocolate, and cool. Add three cups
cream and one tablespoon vanilla. Strain and freeze. Just before
serving add three cups zweiback dried and broken in small pieces.

Frozen Orange Souffle

11/2 cups orange juice
11/2 teaspoons granulated gelatine
11/2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons boiling water
2 tablespoons lemon juice
21/2 cups cream
Yolks 5 eggs
Candied orange peel
Pistachio nuts

Mix fruit juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Cook over boiling water
until mixture thickens; then add gelatine dissolved in boiling
water. Cool, freeze to a mush, add whip from cream, and continue
freezing. Mould, and serve garnished with candied orange peel and
pistachio nuts.

Biscuit Tortoni in Boxes

1 cup dried macaroons, finely crushed
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup sherry
2 cups thin cream
1 pint heavy cream

Soak macaroons in thin cream one hour, add sugar, wine, and
freeze to a mush; then add heavy cream beaten stiff. Mould, pack
in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

Trim lady fingers, arrange on plate in form of box. Keep in place
with ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten at one corner by tying
ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner with flowers of same
color as ribbon. Remove ice cream from brick, cut a slice
three-fourths inch thick, and place it in box.

Frozen Souffle Glace

4 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Grated rind 1 lemon
1/2 cup Madeira wine
2/3 cup sugar
Few grains salt
2/3 cup heavy cream

Beat yolks of eggs slightly; add lemon juice, grated rind, wine,
sugar, and salt; cook until mixture thickens, stirring constantly.
Add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when well mixed, set in a pan
of ice-water to cool, stirring occasionally. Beat cream until stiff,
and add. Fill small paper cases with mixture, cover with macaroon
dust, and set in a tin mould with tight-fitting cover. Pack mould in
salt and ice, and let stand two hours.

Frozen Plum Pudding

2 cups milk
21/2 cups cream
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup candied fruit
Yolks 6 eggs
1/2 cup almonds, blanched and chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sherry
1/3 cup Sultana raisins
1/2 cup pounded macaroons

Make custard of milk, one-half the sugar, egg yolks, and salt.
Caramelize the remaining sugar and add. Strain, cool, add
remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. If a baked ice cream is
desired, use whites of eggs for meringue, Baked Alaska .

Frozen Charlotte Glace

Mould ice cream in brick form or one-half pound baking-powder
boxes. Remove from mould or moulds, and surround with lady
fingers, trimmed to come to top of cream. Cover top with whipped
cream, sweetened and flavored, and pipe cream between lady
fingers. Baking-powder boxes are used when individual service is
desired, the cream being cut in halves crosswise.

Chapter XXVII. PASTRY.

PASTRY cannot be easily excluded from the menu of the New
Englander. Who can dream of a Thanks-giving dinner without a
pie! The last decade has done much to remove pies from the daily
bill of fare, and in their place are found delicate puddings and
seasonable fruits.

If pastry is to be served, have it of the best, light, flaky, and tender.

To pastry belongs, 1st, Puff Paste; 2d, Plain Paste.

Puff paste, which to many seems so difficult of preparation, is
rarely attempted by any except professionals. As a matter of fact,
one who has never handled a rolling-pin is less liable to fail, under
the guidance of a good teacher, than an old cook, who finds it
difficult to overcome the bad habit of using too much force in
rolling. It is necessary to work rapidly and with a light touch. A
cold room is of great advantage.

For making pastry, pastry flour and the best shortenings,
thoroughly chilled, are essential. Its lightness depends on the
amount of air enclosed and expansion of that air in baking. The
flakiness depends upon kind and amount of shortening used. Lard
makes more tender crust than butter, but lacks flavor which butter,
though some chefs prefer beef suet. Eggs and ice were formerly
used, but are not essentials.

Butter should be washed if pastry is to be of the best, so as to
remove salt and buttermilk, thus making it of a waxy consistency,
easy to handle.

Rules for Washing Butter Scald and chill an earthen bowl. Heat
palms of hands in hot water, and chill in cold water. By following
these directions, butter will not adhere to bowl nor hands. Wash
butter in bowl by squeezing with bands until soft and waxy,
placing bowl under a cold-water faucet and allowing water to run.
A small amount of butter may be washed by using a wooden spoon
in place of the hands.

For rolling paste, use a smooth wooden board, and wooden
rolling-pin with handles.

Puff paste should be used for vol-au-vents, patties, rissoles,
bouchees, cheese straws, tarts, etc. It may be used for rims and
upper crusts of pies, but never for lower crusts. Plain paste may be
used where pastry is needed, except for vol-au-vents and patties.

Puff Paste

1 pound butter
1 pound pastry flour or 14 ozs. bread flour
Cold water

Wash the butter, pat and fold until no water flies. Reserve two
tablespoons of butter, and shape remainder into a circular piece
one-half inch thick, and put on floured board. Work two
tablespoons of butter into flour with the tips of fingers of the right
hand. Moisten to a dough with cold water, turn on slightly floured
board, and knead five minutes. Cover with towel, and let stand five
minutes.

Pat and roll one-fourth inch thick, keeping paste a little wider than
long, and corners square. If this cannot be accomplished with
rolling-pin, draw into shape with fingers. Place butter on centre of
lower half of paste. Cover butter by folding upper half of paste
over it. Press edges firmly, to enclose as much air as possible.

Fold right side of paste over enclosed butter, the left side under
enclosed butter. Turn paste half-way round, cover, and let stand
five minutes. Pat, and roll one-fourth inch thick, having paste
longer than wide, lifting often to prevent paste from sticking, and
dredging board slightly with flour when necessary. Fold from ends
towards centre, making three layers. Cover, and let stand five
minutes. Repeat twice, turning paste half-way round each time
before rolling. After fourth rolling, fold from ends to centre, and
double, making four layers. Put in cold place to chill; if outside
temperature is not sufficiently cold, fold paste in a towel, put in a
dripping-pan, and place between dripping pans of crushed ice. If
paste is to be kept for several days, wrap in a napkin, put in tin pail
and cover tightly, then put in cold place; if in ice box, do not allow
pail to come in direct contact with ice.

To Bake Puff Paste

Baking of puff paste requires as much care and judgment as
making. After shaping, chill thoroughly before baking. Puff paste
requires hot oven, greatest heat coming from the bottom, that the
paste may properly rise. While rising it is often necessary to
decrease the heat by lifting covers or opening the check to stove.
Turn frequently, that it may rise evenly. When it has risen its full
height, slip a pan under the sheet on which paste is baking to
prevent burning on the bottom. Puff paste should be baked on a tin
sheet covered with a double thickness of brown paper, or
dripping-pan may be used, lined with brown paper. The
temperature for baking of patties should be about the same as for
raised biscuit; vol-au-vents require less heat, and are covered for
first half-hour to prevent scorching on top.

Patty Shells

Roll puff paste one-quarter inch thick, shape with a patty cutter,
first dipped in flour; remove centres from one-half the rounds with
smaller cutter. Brush over with cold water the larger pieces near
the edge, and fit on rings, pressing lightly. Place in towel between
pans of crushed ice, and chill until paste is stiff; if cold weather,
chill out of doors. Place on iron or tin sheet covered with brown
paper, and bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. The shells should
rise their full height and begin to brown in twelve to fifteen
minutes; continue browning, and finish baking in twenty-five
minutes. Pieces cut from centre of rings of patties may be baked
and used for patty covers, or put together, rolled, and cut for
unders. Trimmings from puff paste should be carefully laid on top
of each other, patted, and rolled out.

Vol-au-vents

Roll puff paste one-third inch thick, mark an oval on paste with
cutter or mould, and cut out with sharp knife, first dipped in flour.
Brush over near the edge with cold water, put on a rim
three-fourths inch wide, press lightly, chill, and bake. Vol-au-vents
require for baking forty-five minutes to one hour. During the first
half-hour they should be covered, watched carefully, and
frequently turned. The paste cut from centre of rim should be
rolled one-quarter inch thick, shaped same size as before rolling,
chilled, baked, and used for cover to the Vol-au-vent.

Quick Puff Paste

1 cup bread flour
Cold water
1 tablespoon lard
7/8 cup butter

Work lard into flour, first using knife then tips of fingers. Moisten
to a dough with cold water, pat, and roll out same as Puff Paste.
Dot paste with small pieces of butter, using one-third the quantity.
Dredge with flour, fold from ends toward centre, then double,
making four layers. Pat, and roll out. Repeat until butter is used.
Roll, shape, chill, and bake in a hot oven.

Plain Paste

11/2 cups flour
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup lard
1/2 teaspoon salt.
Cold water
Wash butter, pat, and form in circular piece. Add salt to flour, and
work in lard with tips of fingers or case knife. Moisten to dough
with cold water; ice-water is not an essential, but is desirable in
summer. Toss on board dredged sparingly with flour, pat, and roll
out; fold in butter as for puff paste, pat, and roll out. Fold so as to
make three layers, turn half-way round, pat, and roll out; repeat.
The pastry may be used at once; if not, fold in cheese-cloth, put in
covered tin, and keep in cold place, but never in direct contact
with ice. Plain paste requires a moderate oven. This is superior
paste.

Chopped Paste

2 cups flour
2/3 cup butter
2 tablespoons lard
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cold water

Wash butter. Mix salt with flour, put in chopping tray, add lard and
butter, and chop until well mixed. Moisten to a dough with cold
water. Toss on floured cloth (Magic Cover), pat, and roll out. Fold
so as to make three layers, turn half-way round, pat, and roll out;
repeat. Should the butter be too hard, it will not mix readily with
the flour, in which case the result will be a tough crust. Omit lard,
and use all butter, if preferred.

Quick Paste

11/2 cups flour
1/4 cup lard, crisco, or cottolene
3/4 teaspoon salt
Cold water

Mix salt with flour, cut in shortening with knife. Moisten to dough
with cold water. Toss on floured board, pat, roll out, and roll up
like a jelly roll. Use one-third cup of shortening if a richer paste is
desired.

Paste with Lard

11/2 cups flour
1/3 cup lard
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cold water
Mix salt with flour. Reserve one and one-fourth tablespoons lard,
work in remainder to flour, using tips of fingers or a case knife.
Moisten to a dough with water. Toss on a floured board, pat, and
roll out. Spread with one tablespoon reserved lard, dredge with
flour, roll up like a jelly roll, pat, and roll out; again roll up. Cut
from the end of roll a piece large enough to line a pie plate. Pat
and roll out, keeping the paste as circular in form as possible. With
care and experience there need be no trimmings. Worked-over
pastry is never as satisfactory. The remaining one-fourth
tablespoon lard is used to dot over upper crust of pie just before
sending to oven; this gives the pie a flaky appearance. Ice-water
has a similar effect. If milk is brushed over the pie it has a glazed
appearance. This quantity of paste will make one pie with two
crusts and a few puffs, or two pies with one crust where the rim is
built up and fluted.

Entire Wheat Paste

1 cup fine Entire Wheat Flour
3 tablespoons lard
1/2 cup pastry flour
1/2 cup butter
1 teaspoon salt
Cold water

Make same as Plain Paste. Roll to one-fourth inch in thickness, cut
in finger-shaped pieces, bake, cool, brush over with slightly beaten
white one egg diluted with one teaspoon cold water, and sprinkle
with chopped nut meat seasoned with salt. Return to oven to
slightly brown nut meats. Serve with salad course.

Quality Paste

2 cups flour
3/4 cup butter
1/4 cup lard
Ice water

Put flour in bowl, add lard, and cut it in with knife. When finely
chopped add water to make a very stiff dough, using as little as
possible. Cut the butter into the dough leaving it in rather coarse
pieces. Chill in icebox for several hours or over night. Place ball of
paste on floured cloth, pat and roll out. Fold so as to make three
layers, turn half way round, pat and roll out. Pat, roll and fold four
times, shape and bake at once in hot oven.
Chapter XXVIII. PIES.

PASTE for pies should be one-fourth inch thick and rolled a little
larger than the plate to allow for shrinking. In dividing paste for
pies, allow more for upper than under crusts. Always perforate
upper crusts that steam may escape. Some make a design, others
pierce with a large fork.

Flat rims for pies should be cut in strips three-fourths inch wide.
Under crusts should be brushed with cold water before putting on
rims, and rims slightly fulled, otherwise they will shrink from edge
of plate. The pastry-jagger, a simple device for cutting paste,
makes rims with fluted edges.

Pies requiring two crusts sometimes have a rim between the crusts.
This is mostly confined to mince pieces, where there is little
danger of juice escaping. Sometimes a rim is placed over upper
crust. Where two pieces of paste are put together, the under piece
should always be brushed with cold water, the upper piece placed
over, and the two pressed lightly together; otherwise they will
separate during baking.

When juicy fruit is used for filling pies, some of the juices are apt
to escape during baking. As a precaution, bind with a strip of
cotton cloth wrung out of cold water and cut one inch wide and
long enough to encircle the plate. Squash, pumpkin, and custard
pies are much less care during baking when bound. Where cooked
fruits are used for filling, it is desirable to bake crusts separately.
This is best accomplished by covering an inverted deep pie plate
with paste and baking for under crust. Prick with a fork before
baking. Slip from plate, and fill. For upper crusts, roll a piece of
paste a little larger than the pie plate, prick, and bake on a tin
sheet.

For baking pies, eight inch perforated tin plates are used. They
may be bought shallow or deep. By the use of such plates the
under crust is well cooked. Pastry should be thoroughly baked and
well browned. Pies require from thirty-five to forty-five minutes
for baking. Never grease a pie plate; good pastry greases its own
tin. Slip pies, when slightly cooled, to earthen plates.

Apple Pie I

4 or 5 sour apples
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon butter
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Few gratings lemon rind

Line pie plate with paste. Pare, core, and cut the apples into
eighths, put row around plate one-half inch from edge, and work
towards centre until plate is covered; then pile on remainder. Mix
sugar, nutmeg, salt, lemon juice, and grated rind, and sprinkle over
apples. Dot over with butter. Wet edges of under crust, cover with
upper crust, and press edges together.

Bake forty to forty-five minutes in moderate oven. A very good pie
may be made without butter, lemon juice, and grated rind.
Cinnamon may be substituted for nutmeg. Evaporated apples may
be used in place of fresh fruit. If used, they should be soaked over
night in cold water.

Apple Pie II

Use same ingredients as for Apple Pie I. Place in small earthen
baking-dish and add hot water to prevent apples from burning.
Cover closely, and bake three hours in very slow oven, when
apples will be a dark red color. Brown sugar may be used instead
of white sugar, a little more being required. Cool, and bake
between two crusts.

Blackberry Pie
Pick over and wash one and one-half cups berries. Stew until soft
with enough water to prevent burning. Add sugar to taste, and
one-eighth teaspoon salt. Line plate with paste, put on a rim, fill
with berries (which have been cooled); arrange six strips pastry
across the top, cut same width as rim; put on an upper rim. Bake
thirty minutes in moderate oven.

Blueberry Pie

21/2 cups berries
1/2 cup sugar
Flour
1/8 teaspoon salt

Line a deep plate with Plain Paste, fill with berries slightly
dredged with flour; sprinkle with sugar and salt, cover, and bake
forty-five to fifty minutes in a moderate oven. For sweetening,
some prefer to use one-third molasses, the remaining two-thirds to
be sugar. Six green grapes (from which seeds have been removed)
cut in small pieces much improve the flavor, particularly where
huckleberries are used in place of blueberries.

Cranberry Pie
11/2 cups cranberries
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup sugar

Put ingredients in saucepan in order given, and cook ten minutes;
cool, and bake in one crust, with a rim, and strips across the top.

Currant Pie

1 cup currants
1/4 cup flour
1 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons water

Mix flour and sugar, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten and diluted
with water. Wash currants, drain, remove stems, then measure; add
to first mixture and bake in one crust; cool, and cover with
Meringue I. Cook in slow oven until delicately browned.

Cream Pie

Bake three crusts on separate pie plates. Put together with Cream
Filling and dust over with powdered sugar. If allowed to stand
after filling for any length of time, the pastry will soften.

Custard Pie

2 eggs
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar
11/2 cups milk

Few gratings nutmeg

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, and milk. Line plate with paste,
and build up a fluted rim. Strain in the mixture and sprinkle with
few gratings nutmeg. Bake in quick oven at first to set rim,
decrease the heat afterwards, as egg and milk in combination need
to be cooked at low temperature.

Date Pie

2 cups milk
2 eggs
1/3 pound sugar dates
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few gratings nutmeg

Cook dates with milk twenty minutes in top of double boiler.
Strain, and rub through sieve, then add eggs and salt. Bake same as
Custard Pie.

Lemon Pie I

1/2 cup chopped apple
1/4 cup rolled common crackers
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 beaten egg
Grated rind 1 lemon
1 teaspoon melted butter

Mix ingredients in order given and bake with two crusts.

Lemon Pie II

3/4 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup boiling water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons corn-starch
Grated rind 1 lemon
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon butter

Mix corn-starch, flour, and sugar, add boiling water, stirring
constantly. Cook two minutes, add butter, egg yolks, and rind and
juice of lemon. Line plate with paste same as for Custard Pie. Turn
in mixture which has been cooled, and bake until pastry is well
browned. Cool slightly, and cover with Meringue I; then return to
oven and bake meringue.

Lemon Pie III

Yolks 4 eggs
11/4 cups milk
6 tablespoons sugar
Whites 4 eggs
Few grains salt
7/8 cup powdered sugar
1 lemon

Beat yolks of eggs slightly, add sugar, salt, grated rind of lemon,
and milk. Line plate with paste as for Custard Pie. Pour in mixture.
Bake in moderate oven until set. Remove from oven, cool slightly,
and cover with Meringue III made of whites of eggs, powdered
sugar, and lemon juice.

Lemon Pie IV

3 eggs
1/4 cup lemon juice
2/3 cup sugar
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons water
Beat eggs slightly, add sugar, lemon juice, grated rind, and water.
Bake in one crust in a moderate oven. Cool slightly, cover with
Meringue II, then return to oven and bake meringue.

Lemon Pie V

1 cup sugar
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon melted butter
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
Few grains salt

Mix sugar and flour, add lemon juice, egg yolks slightly beaten,
milk, butter, whites of eggs beaten stiff, and salt. Bake in one
crust, and cover with meringue or not, as desired.

Mince Pies

Mince pies should be always baked with two crusts. For
Thanksgiving and Christmas pies, Puff Paste is often used for rims
and upper crusts, but is never satisfactory when used for under
crusts.

Mince Pie Meat I

4 lbs. lean beef
3 lbs. currants
2 lbs. beef suet
1/2 lb. finely cut citron
Baldwin apples
1 quart cooking brandy
3 quinces
1 tablespoon cinnamon and mace
3 lbs. sugar
1 tablespoon powdered clove
2 cups molasses
2 grated nutmegs
2 quarts cider
1 teaspoon pepper
4 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
Salt to taste

Cover meat and suet with boiling water and cook until tender, cool
in water in which they are cooked; the suet will rise to top,
forming a cake of fat, which may be easily removed. Finely chop
meat, and add it to twice the amount of finely chopped apples. The
apples should be quartered, cored, and pared, previous to
chopping, or skins may be left on, which is not an objection if
apples are finely chopped. Add quinces finely chopped, sugar,
molasses, cider, raisins, currants, and citron; also suet, and stock in
which meat and suet were cooked, reduced to one and one-half
cups. Heat gradually, stir occasionally, and cook slowly two hours;
then add brandy and spices.

Mince Pie Meat II

5 cups chopped cooked beef
Juice 2 lemons
21/2 cups chopped suet
Juice 2 oranges
71/2 cups chopped apples
1 tablespoon mace
3 cups cider
Cinnamon
2 tablespoons each
1/2 cup vinegar
Clove
1 cup molasses
Allspice
5 cups sugar
2 nutmegs grated
3/4 lb. citron, finely chopped
2 tablespoons lemon extract
21/2 cups whole raisins
1 teaspoon almond extract
11/2 cups raisins, finely chopped
11/2 cups brandy
Salt
3 cups liquor in which beef was cooked

Mix ingredients in the order given, except brandy, and let simmer
one and one-half hours; then add brandy and shavings from the
rind of the lemons and oranges.

English Mince Meat

5 lbs. raisins, seeded
5 lbs. currants
5 lbs. suet
finely chopped
5 lbs. light brown sugar
5 lbs. apples
1/2 teaspoon mace
4 lbs. citron
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 lbs. blanched almonds
21/2 cups brandy

Cook raisins, suet, apples, citron, currants, and sugar slowly for
one and one-half hours; then add almonds, spices, and brandy.

Mince Meat (without Alcoholic Liquor)
Mix together one cup chopped apple, one-half cup raisins seeded
and chopped, one-half cup currants, one-fourth cup butter, one
tablespoon molasses, one tablespoon boiled cider, one cup sugar,
one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon cloves, one-half
nutmeg grated, one salt-spoon of mace, and one teaspoon salt. Add
enough stock in which meat was cooked to moisten; heat gradually
to boiling-point, and simmer one hour; then add one cup chopped
meat and two tablespoons Barberry Jelly. Cook fifteen minutes.

Mock Mince Pie

4 common crackers, rolled
1 cup raisins, seeded and chopped
11/2 cups sugar
1 cup molasses
1/2 cup butter
1/3 cup lemon juice or vinegar
2 eggs well beaten

Spices

Mix ingredients in order given, adding spices to taste. Bake
between crusts. This quantity will make two pies.

Mock Cherry Pie

Mix one cup cranberries cut in halves, one-half cup raisins seeded
and cut in pieces, three-fourths cup sugar, and one tablespoon
flour. Dot over with one teaspoon butter. Bake between crusts.

Peach Pie

Remove skins from peaches. This may be done easily after
allowing peaches to stand in boiling water one minute. Cut in
eighths, cook until soft with enough water to prevent burning;
sweeten to taste. Cool, and fill crust previously baked. Cover with
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Fresh strawberries, cut in
halves, slightly mashed and sweetened, are attractively served in a
pastry case.

Prune Pie

1/2 lb. prunes
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup sugar (scant)
11/2 teaspoons butter
1 tablespoon flour

Wash prunes and soak in enough cold water to cover. Cook in
same water until soft. Remove stones, cut prunes in quarters, and
mix with sugar and lemon juice. Reduce liquor to one and one-half
tablespoons. Line plate with paste, cover with prunes, pour over
liquor, dot over with butter, and dredge with flour. Put on an upper
crust and bake in a moderate oven.

Rhubarb P

11/2 cups rhubarb
1 egg
7/8 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour

Skin and cut stalks of rhubarb in half-inch pieces before
measuring. Mix sugar, flour, and egg; add to rhubarb and bake
between crusts. Many prefer to scald rhubarb before using; if so
prepared, losing some of its acidity, less sugar is required.

Squash Pie I

11/4 cups steamed and strained squash
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, or
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
7/8 cup milk

Mix sugar, salt, and spice or extract, add squash, egg slightly
beaten, and milk gradually. Bake in one crust, following directions
for Custard Pie. If a richer pie is desired, use one cup squash,
one-half cup each of milk and cream, and an additional egg yolk.

Squash Pie II

1 cup squash, steamed and strained
4 tablespoons brandy
Cinnamon
1 teaspoon each
1 cup heavy cream
Nutmeg
1 cup sugar
Ginger
3/4 teaspoon each
3 eggs, slightly beaten
Salt
1/4 teaspoon mace

Line a deep pie plate with puff paste. Brush over paste with white
of egg slightly beaten, and sprinkle with stale bread crumbs; fill,
and bake in a moderate oven. Serve warm.

Pumpkin Pie

11/2 cups steamed and strained pumpkin
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 cups milk
1/2 cup cream

Mix ingredients sugar given and bake in one crust.

Chapter XXIX. PASTRY DESSERTS.

Banbury Tarts

1 cup raisins
1 egg
1 cup sugar
1 cracker
Juice and grated rind 1 lemon

STONE and chop raisins, add sugar, egg slightly beaten, cracker
finely rolled, and lemon juice and rind. Roll pastry one-eighth inch
thick, and cut pieces three and one-half inches long by three inches
wide. Put two teaspoons of mixture on each piece. Moisten /?/ with
cold water half-way round, fold over, press edges /?/ with
three-tined fork, first dipped in flour. Bake twenty minutes in slow
oven.

Cheese Cakes

1 cup sweet milk
Juice and grated rind one lemon
1 cup sour milk
1/4 cup almonds, blanched and chopped
1 cup sugar
Yolks 4 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt

Scald sweet and sour milk, strain through cheese-cloth. To curd
add sugar, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, lemon, and salt. Line patty
pans with paste, fill with mixture, and sprinkle with chopped
almonds. Bake until mixture is firm to the touch.

Cheese Straws

Roll puff or plain paste one-fourth inch thick, sprinkle one-half
with grated cheese to which has been added few grains of salt and
cayenne. Fold, press edges firmly together, fold again, pat, and roll
out one-fourth inch thick. Sprinkle with cheese and proceed as
before; repeat twice. Cut in strips five inches long and one-fourth
inch wide. Bake eight minutes in hot oven. Parmesan cheese, or
equal parts of Parmesan and Edam cheese, may be used. Cheese
straws are piled log cabin fashion and served with cheese or salad
course.

Condes

Whites 2 eggs
2 oz. almonds, blanched and finely chopped
3/4 cup powdered sugar

Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add sugar gradually, then almonds.
Roll paste, and cut in strips three and one-half inches long by one
and one-half inches wide. Spread with mixture; avoid having it
come close to edge. Dust with powdered sugar and bake fifteen
minutes in moderate oven.

Galattes

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick. Shape with an
oblong cutter three and one-half inches long by one and
three-fourths inches wide. Brush over with white of egg and
sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Bake in a hot oven. A
lady-finger cutter may be used with satisfaction, but is more
difficult to procure.

Cream Horns

Roll puff paste in a long rectangular piece, one-eighth inch thick.
Cut in strips three-fourths inch wide. Roll paste over wooden
forms bought for the purpose, having edges overlap. Bake in hot
oven until well puffed and slightly browned. Brush over with white
of egg slightly beaten, diluted with one teaspoon water, then
sprinkle with sugar. Return to oven and finish cooking, and
remove from forms. When cold, fill with Cream Filling or
whipped cream sweetened and flavored.

Florentine Meringue

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick; cut a piece ten
inches long by seven inches wide; place on a sheet, wet edges, and
put on a half-inch rim. Prick with fork six times, and bake in hot
oven. Cool, and spread with jam, cover with Meringue II, and
almonds blanched and shredded; sprinkle with powdered sugar and
bake.

Cocoanut Tea Cakes

Roll puff or plain paste to one-fourth inch in thickness. Shape with
a lady-finger cutter and bake on a tin sheet in a hot oven. When
nearly done remove from oven, cool slightly, brush over with
beaten white of egg, sprinkle with shredded cocoanut, and return
to oven to finish the cooking.

Napoleons

Bake three sheets of pastry, pricking before baking. Put between
the sheets Cream Filling; spread top with Confectioner's Frosting,
sprinkle with pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, crease in
pieces about two and one-half by four inches, and cut with sharp
knife.

Orange Sticks

Cut puff or plain paste rolled one-eighth inch thick in strips five
inches long by one inch wide, and bake in hot oven. Put together in
pairs, with Orange Filling between.

Lemon Sticks

Lemon Sticks may be made in same manner as Orange Sticks,
using Lemon Filling.

Palm Leaves

Roll remnants of puff paste one-eighth inch thick; sprinkle
one-half surface with powdered sugar, fold, press edges together,
pat and roll out, using sugar for dredging board; repeat three times.
After the last rolling fold four times. The pastry should be in long
strip one and one-half inches wide. From the end, cut pieces one
inch wide; place on baking-sheet, broad side down, one inch apart,
and separate layers of pastry at one end to suggest a leaf. Bake
eight minutes in hot oven; these will spread while baking.

Raspberry Puffs

Roll plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in pieces four by
three and one-half inches. Put one-half tablespoon raspberry jam
on centre of lower half of each piece, wet edges half-way around,
fold, press edges firmly together, prick tops, place on sheet, and
bake twenty minutes in hot oven.

Tarts

Roll puff paste one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a fluted round
cutter, first dipped in flour; with a smaller cutter remove centres
from half the pieces, leaving rings one-half inch wide. Brush with
cold water the larger pieces near the edge; fit on rings, pressing
lightly. Chill thoroughly, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. By
brushing tops of rings with beaten yolk of egg diluted with one
teaspoonful water, they will have a glazed appearance. Cool, and
fill with jam or jelly.

Polish Tartlets

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in two and
one-half inch squares; wet the corners, fold toward the centre, and
press lightly; bake on a sheet; when cool, press down the centres
and fill, using two-thirds quince marmalade and one-third current
jelly.

Almond Tartlets

Line patty pans with puff or plain paste, fill with the following
mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until firm.

Blanch and finely chop one-third pound Jordan almonds. Add two
tablespoons cracker rolled and sifted, three eggs slightly beaten,
one-third cup sugar, one-third teaspoon salt, two cups milk, and
one-half teaspoon vanilla.

Peach Crusts

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, cut in two and
one-half inch squares, and bake in hot oven. Cool, press down the
centres, and arrange on each one-half a canned peach drained from
syrup and heated in oven. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and put
brandy in each cavity. Light just before sending to table.

Malaga Boats

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, line individual
boat-shaped tins, prick, and half fill with rice or barley to keep
pastry in desired shape. Bake in a hot oven. Remove from tins and
cover bottom of boats with marmalade, and on marmalade arrange
three or four malaga grapes cooked in syrup five minutes. For the
syrup boil one-half cup, each, sugar and water five minutes.

Calve Tarts

Roll puff or plain paste one-eighth inch thick, and cut in rounds of
correct size to cover inverted circular tins. Cover tins with paste,
prick several times, and bake until delicately browned. Place
one-half a canned peach in each case and fill each cavity with
one-half a blanched Jordan almond.

Fruit Baskets

Bake plain paste over inverted patty pans. Roll paste one-eighth
inch thick, and cut in strips one-fourth inch wide. Twist strips in
pairs and bake over a one-fourth pound baking-powder box, thus
making handles. Fill cases with sliced peaches sprinkled
generously with sugar, insert handles, garnished with whipped
cream and peach leaves. Strawberries, raspberries, or other fruit
may be used in place of peaches.

Lemon Tartlets

Bake plain paste over inverted patty pan. Fill with Lemon Pie II
mixture, cover with Meringue II, and bake until meringue is
delicately browned.

MERINGUES

For Pies, Puddings, and Desserts

Eggs for meringues should be thoroughly chilled, and beaten with
silver fork, wire spoon, or whisk. Where several eggs are needed,
much time is saved by using a whisk. Meringues on pies, puddings,
or desserts may be spread evenly, spread and piled in the centre,
put on lightly by spoonfuls, or spread evenly with part of the
mixture, the remainder being forced through a pastry bag and tube.

Meringues I and III should be baked fifteen minutes in slow oven.
Meringue II should be cooked eight minutes in moderate oven; if
removed from oven before cooked, the eggs will liquefy and
meringue settle; if cooked too long, meringue is tough.

Meringue I

Whites 2 eggs
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice or
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites until stiff, add sugar gradually and continue beating,
then add flavoring.

Meringue II

Whites 3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract or
71/2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/3 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites until stiff, add four tablespoons sugar gradually, and
beat vigorously; fold in remaining sugar, and add flavoring. Cook
eight minutes in a slow oven.

Meringue III

Whites 4 eggs
7/8 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put whites of eggs and sugar in bowl, beat mixture until stiff
enough to hold its shape, add lemon juice drop by drop, continuing
the beating. It will take thirty minutes to beat mixture sufficiently
stiff to hold its shape, but when baked it makes a most delicious
meringue.

Meringues Glacees, or Kisses

Whites 4 eggs
11/4 cups powdered sugar or
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup fine granulated

Beat whites until stiff, add gradually two-thirds of sugar, and
continue beating until mixture will hold its shape; fold in
remaining sugar, and add flavoring. Shape with a spoon or pastry
bag and tube on wet board covered with letter paper. Bake thirty
minutes in very slow oven, remove from paper, and put together in
pairs, or if intending to fill with whipped cream or ice cream
remove soft part with spoon and place meringues in oven to dry.

Nut Meringues

To Meringue Glacee mixture add chopped nut meat; almonds,
English walnuts, or hickory nuts are preferred Shape by dropping
mixture from tip of spoon in small piles one-half inch apart, or by
using pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with nut meat, and bake.

Meringues (Mushrooms)

Shape Meringue Glacee mixture in rounds the size of mushroom
caps, using pastry bag and tube; sprinkle with grated chocolate.
Shape stems like mushroom stems. Bake, remove from paper, and
place caps on stems.

Meringues Panachees

Fill Meringues Glacees with ice cream, or ice cream and water ice.
Garnish with whipped cream forced through pastry bag and tube,
and candied cherries.

Creole Kisses

1/2 lb. Jordan almonds
Whites 4 eggs
1/4 cup boiling water
11/4 cups powdered sugar
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon salt

Blanch almonds, finely shred one-half of them, and dry slowly in
oven. Put water and sugar in a saucepan, and as soon as
boiling-point is reached, add remaining almonds, and cook until
the syrup is of a golden brown color. Turn into a pan, cool, and
finely pound in mortar. Beat whites of eggs until stiff, add
gradually sugar, then vanilla, almonds, and salt. Shape, sprinkle
with shredded almonds, sift sugar over them, and bake in a slow
oven twenty-five minutes.

Chapter XXX. GINGERBREADS, COOKIES, AND WAFERS.

Hot Water Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
1 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup boiling water
11/2 teaspoons ginger
21/4 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons melted butter

Add water to molasses. Mix and sift dry ingredients, combine
mixtures, add butter, and beat vigorously. Pour into a buttered
shallow pan, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven.
Chicken fat tried out and clarified furnishes an excellent
shortening, and may be used in place of butter.

Sour Milk Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
13/4 teaspoons soda
1 cup sour milk
2 teaspoons ginger
21/3 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup melted butter

Mix soda with sour milk and add to molasses. Sift together
remaining dry ingredients, combine mixtures, add butter, and beat
vigorously. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and bake twenty-five
minutes in a moderate oven.

Soft Molasses Gingerbread

1 cup molasses
1 egg
1/3 cup butter
2 cups flour
13/4 teaspoons soda
2 teaspoons ginger
1/2 cup sour milk
1/2 teaspoon salt

Put butter and molasses in saucepan and cook until boiling point is
reached. Remove from fire, add soda, and beat vigorously. Then
add milk, egg well beaten, and remaining ingredients mixed and
sifted. Bake fifteen minutes in buttered small tin pans, having pans
two-thirds filled with mixture.

Cambridge Gingerbread

1/3 cup butter
11/2 teaspoons soda
2/3 cup boiling water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup molasses
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg
1 teaspoon ginger
23/4 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon clove

Melt butter in water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry
ingredients mixed and sifted. Bake in a buttered shallow pan.

Soft Sugar Gingerbread

2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
13/4 cups flour
11/2 teaspoons ginger
2/3 cup thin cream

Beat eggs until light, and add sugar gradually. Mix and sift dry
ingredients, and add alternately with cream to first mixture. Turn
into a buttered cake pan, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate
oven.

Gossamer Gingerbread

1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
17/8 cups flour
1 egg
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon yellow ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then egg well beaten. Add
milk, and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Spread in a buttered
dripping-pan as thinly as possible, using the back of mixing-spoon.
Bake thirty minutes. Sprinkle with sugar, and cut in small squares
or diamonds before removing from pan.

Fairy Gingerbread

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup light brown sugar
17/8 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk very slowly. Mix
and sift flour and ginger, and combine mixtures. Spread very thinly
with a broad, long-bladed knife on a buttered, inverted
dripping-pan. Bake in a moderate oven. Cut in squares before
removing from pan. Watch carefully and turn pan frequently
during baking, that all may be evenly cooked. If mixture around
edge of pan is cooked before that in the centre, pan should be
removed from oven, cooked part cut off, and remainder returned to
oven to finish cooking.

Hard Sugar Gingerbread

3/4 cup butter
5 cups flour
11/2 cups sugar
3/4 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 cup milk
11/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 tablespoon ginger

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, milk, and dry ingredients
mixed and sifted. Put some of mixture on an inverted dripping-pan
and roll as thinly as possible to cover pan. Mark dough with a
coarse grater. Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a moderate oven.
Before removing from pan, cut in strips four and one-half inches
long by one and one-half inches wide.

Christmas English Gingerbread

1 lb. flour
1 tablespoon ginger
1/2 lb. butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
Molasses

Mix flour, sugar, ginger, and salt. Work in butter, using tips of
fingers, and add just enough molasses to hold ingredients together.
Let stand over night to get thoroughly chilled. Roll very thin,
shape, and bake in a moderate oven.

Card Gingerbread

1/3 cup butter
13/4 cups flour
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/2 tablespoon ginger
1 egg
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, molasses,
and flour mixed and sifted with ginger, salt, soda, and cinnamon.
Chill, roll in sheets to one-fourth inch in thickness, bake on a
buttered sheet, and cut in squares.

Walnut Molasses Bars

1/4 cup butter
3 cups flour
1/4 cup lard
1/2 tablespoon ginger
1/4 cup boiling water
1/3 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon clove
1/2 cup molasses
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon soda
Chopped walnut meat

Pour water over butter and lard, then add sugar, molasses mixed
with soda, flour, salt, and spices. Chill thoroughly, roll one-fourth
inch thick, cut in strips three and one-half inches long by one and
one-half inches wide. Sprinkle with nut meat and bake ten
minutes.

Ginger Snaps

1 cup molasses
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 cup shortening
1 tablespoon ginger
31/4 cups flour
11/2 teaspoons salt

Heat molasses to boiling-point and pour over shortening. Add dry
ingredients mixed and sifted. Chill thoroughly. Toss one-fourth of
mixture on a floured board and roll as thinly as possible; shape
with a small round cutter, first dipped in flour. Place near together
on a buttered sheet and bake in a moderate oven. Gather up the
trimmings and roll with another portion of dough. During rolling,
the bowl containing mixture should be kept in a cool place, or it
will be necessary to add more flour to dough, which makes
cookies hard rather than crisp and short.

Molasses Cookies

1 cup molasses
1 tablespoon ginger
1/2 cup shortening, butter and lard mixed
1 tablespoon soda
2 tablespoons warm milk
21/2 cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt

Heat molasses to boiling-point, add shortening, ginger, soda
dissolved in warm milk, salt, and flour. Proceed as for Ginger
Snaps.

Soft Molasses Cookies
1 cup molasses
1/2 cup shortening, melted
13/4 teaspoons soda
2 teaspoons ginger
1 cup sour milk
1 teaspoon salt

Flour

Add soda to molasses and beat thoroughly; add milk, shortening,
ginger, salt, and flour. Enough flour must be used to make mixture
of right consistency to drop easily from spoon. Let stand several
hours in a cold place to thoroughly chill. Toss one-half mixture at
a time on slightly floured board and roll lightly to one-fourth inch
thickness. Shape with a round cutter, first dipped in flour. Bake on
a buttered sheet.

Spice Cookies

1/2 cup molasses
2 cups flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon soda
11/2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons lard
1/2 teaspoon clove
1 tablespoon milk
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

Heat molasses to boiling-point. Add sugar, shortening, and milk.
Mix and sift dry ingredients, and add to first mixture. Chill
thoroughly, and proceed as with Ginger Snaps.

Scotch Wafers

1 cup fine oatmeal
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup Rolled Oats
1/8 teaspoon soda
2 cups flour
1/4 cup butter or lard
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup hot water
Mix first six ingredients. Melt shortening in water and add to first
mixture. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll as thinly as
possible. Shape with a cutter, or with a sharp knife cut in strips.
Bake on a buttered sheet in a slow oven. These are well adapted
for children's luncheons, and are much enjoyed by the
convalescent, taken with a glass of milk.

Oatmeal Cookies

1 egg
1/2 cup fine oatmeal
1/4 cup sugar
2 cups flour
1/4 cup thin cream
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt

Beat egg until light, add sugar, cream, and milk; then add oatmeal,
flour, baking powder, and salt, mixed and sifted. Toss on a floured
board, roll, cut in shape, and bake in a moderate oven.

Scottish Fancies

1 egg
1 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 teaspoon salt
2/3 tablespoon melted butter
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat egg until light, add gradually sugar, and then stir in remaining
ingredients. Drop mixture by teaspoonfuls on a thoroughly greased
inverted dripping-pan one inch apart. Spread into circular shape
with a case knife first dipped in cold water. Bake in a moderate
oven until delicately browned. To give variety use two-thirds cup
rolled oats and fill cup with shredded cocoanut.

Vanilla Wafers

1/3 cup butter and lard in equal proportions
1/4 cup milk
2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar, egg well beaten, milk, and vanilla.
Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Proceed as
with Ginger Snaps.

Cream Cookies

1/3 cup butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
2 teaspoons yellow ginger
1/2 cup thin cream
Flour to roll

Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.

Imperial Cookies

1/2 cup butter
21/2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
1 tablespoon milk
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.

Hermits

1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup raisins, stoned and cut in small pieces
2/3 cup sugar
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons milk
1/4 teaspoon clove
13/4 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon mace
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then raisins, egg well
beaten, and milk. Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first
mixture. Roll mixture a little thicker than for Vanilla Wafers.

Rich Cookies

1/2 cup butter
3/4 cup flour
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 egg well beaten
Raisins, nuts, or citron

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg, flour, and vanilla. Drop
from tip of spoon in small portions on buttered sheet two inches
apart. Spread thinly with a knife first dipped in cold water. Put
four Sultana raisins on each cookie, almonds blanched and cut in
strips, or citron cut in small pieces.

Jelly Jumbles

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup sour milk
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg
Flour
1/2 teaspoon soda
Currant jelly

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, soda
mixed with milk, salt and flour to make a soft dough. Chill and
shape, using a round cutter. On the centres of one-half the pieces
put currant jelly. Make three small openings in remaining halves,
using a thimble, and put pieces together. Press edges slightly, and
bake in a rather hot oven, that jumbles may keep in good shape.

Royal Fans

Mix and sift two cups flour and one-half cup brown sugar. Wash
three-fourths cup butter and work into first mixture, using tips of
fingers. Roll to one-third inch in thickness, shape with a fluted
round cutter five inches in diameter. Cut each piece in quarters and
crease with the dull edge of a case knife to represent folds of a fan.
Brush over with yolk of egg diluted with three-fourths teaspoon
water. Bake in a slow oven.

Boston Cookies

1 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3 eggs
1 cup chopped nut meat, hickory or English walnut
1 teaspoon soda
11/2 tablespoons hot water
1/2 cup currants
31/4 cups flour
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and chopped

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs well beaten. Add
soda dissolved in hot water, and one-half the flour mixed and
sifted with salt and cinnamon; then add nut meat, fruit, and
remaining flour. Drop by spoonfuls one inch apart on a buttered
sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.

Cocoanut Cream Cookies

2 eggs
1/2 cup shredded cocoanut
1 cup sugar
3 cups flour
1 cup thick cream
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Beat eggs until light, add sugar gradually, cocoanut, cream, and
flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt. Chill
thoroughly, toss on a floured board, pat, and roll one-half inch
thick. Sprinkle with cocoanut, roll one-fourth inch thick, and shape
with a small round cutter, first dipped in flour. Bake on a buttered
sheet in a moderate oven.

Peanut Cookies

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour
1 egg
2 teaspoons milk
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup finely chopped peanuts
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

Cream the butter, add sugar, and egg well beaten. Mix and sift
baking powder, salt, and flour; add to first mixture; then add milk,
peanuts, and lemon juice. Drop from a teaspoon on a buttered
sheet one inch apart, and place one-half peanut on top of each.
Bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a slow oven. This recipe will
make twenty-four cookies. One pint peanuts when shelled should
yield one-half cup.

Almond Cookies

1/2 cup butter
1/2 tablespoon cinnamon
1 egg
Clove
1/2 tablespoon each
1/3 cup almonds, blanched and finely chopped
Nutmeg
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons brandy
2 cups flour

Cream the butter, add egg well beaten, almonds, sugar, brandy,
and spices mixed and sifted with flour. Roll mixture to one-fourth
inch in thickness, shape with a round cutter first dipped in flour,
and bake in a slow oven.

Nut Cookies

Yolks 2 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
6 tablespoons flour
1 cup chopped nut meats
Few grains salt

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar
gradually, nut meats, whites of egg beaten until stiff, and flour
mixed with salt. Drop from tip of spoon on buttered sheet, spread,
and bake in a moderate oven.

Seed Cakes

Follow recipe for Cocoanut Cream Cookies , using one and
one-half tablespoons caraway seeds in place of cocoanut.

Chocolate Cookies

1/2 cup butter
2 ozs. unsweetened chocolate
1 cup sugar
21/2 cups flour (scant)
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup milk

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg well beaten, salt, and
chocolate melted. Beat well, and add flour mixed and sifted with
baking powder alternately with milk. Chill, roll very thin, then
shape with a small cutter, first dipped in flour, and bake in a
moderate oven.

German Chocolate Cookies

2 eggs
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
1 cup brown sugar
11/3 cups almonds, blanched and chopped
2 bars German chocolate
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder

Beat eggs until light, add sugar, gradually, and continue the
beating; then add chocolate, grated, and remaining ingredients.
Drop from tip of spoon on a buttered sheet, and bake in a moderate
oven.

Chocolate Fruit Cookies
1/4 cup butter
1 egg
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup nut meats, finely chopped
2 tablespoons grated chocolate
1/2 cup seeded raisins, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon boiling water
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Cream the butter, and add sugar, gradually. Melt chocolate, add
remaining sugar and water, and cook one minute. Combine
mixtures, and add remaining ingredients. Chill, shape, and bake
same as Chocolate Cookies.

Chocolate Cakes

3 eggs
3 squares unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup butter
1 cup stale bread crumbs
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons flour

Beat eggs until light. Cream the butter, add sugar, combine
mixtures, then add chocolate melted, bread crumbs, and flour.
Spread mixture in a shallow buttered pan and bake in a slow oven.
Shape with a tiny biscuit-cutter and put together in pairs with
White Mountain Cream between and on top.

Neuremburghs

2 eggs
1/8 teaspoon clove
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon orange peel, finely cut
3/4 cup flour
1/3 teaspoon salt
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
1/3 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup Jordan almonds

Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff, and add sugar gradually,
continuing the beating. Then add yolks of eggs well beaten, flour
mixed and sifted with salt and spices, orange peel, and lemon rind.
Blanch almonds, cut in small pieces crosswise, and bake in a slow
oven until well browned. Fold into the mixture, and drop by
spoonfuls on a sheet dredged with corn-starch and powdered sugar
in equal proportions. Bake in a moderate oven.

Sand Tarts

1/2 cup butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
White 1 egg
1 egg
Blanched almonds
13/4 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten; then
add flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Chill, toss
one-half mixture on a floured board, and roll one-eighth inch thick.
Shape with a doughnut cutter. Brush over with white of egg, and
sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. Split almonds, and
arrange three halves on each at equal distances. Place on a buttered
sheet, and bake eight minutes in a slow oven.

Swedish Wafers

1/2 cup butter
5 ozs. flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
2 eggs
Shredded almonds

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs slightly beaten, flour,
and flavoring. Drop by spoonfuls on an inverted buttered
dripping-pan. Spread very thinly, using a knife, in circular shapes
about three inches in diameter. Sprinkle with almonds, and bake in
a slow oven. Remove from pan, and shape at once over the handle
of a wooden spoon.

Marguerites I

2 eggs
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup brown sugar
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup flour
1 cup pecan nut meats, cut in small pieces

Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients in the order
given. Fill small buttered tins two-thirds full of mixture, and place
pecan nut meat on each. Bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes.

Marguerites II

11/2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons shredded cocoanut
1/2 cup water
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
5 marshmallows
1 cup English walnut meats
Whites 2 eggs
Saltines

Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread. Remove to back of
range and add marshmallows cut in pieces. Pour onto the whites of
eggs beaten until stiff; then add cocoanut, vanilla, and nut meats.
Spread saltines with mixture and bake until delicately browned.

Kornettes

3/4 cup finely chopped popped corn
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 tablespoon soft butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
White 1 egg
Blanched and chopped almonds
1/3 cup sugar
Candied cherries

Add butter to corn. Beat egg white until stiff, and add sugar
gradually, continuing the beating. Combine mixtures; then add salt
and vanilla. Drop mixture from tip of spoon on a well buttered
sheet, one inch apart. Shape in circular form with case knife first
dipped in cold water. Sprinkle with almonds and place a piece of
candied cherry on the centre of each. Bake in a slow oven until
delicately browned.

Rolled Wafers

1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup powdered sugar
7/8 cup bread flour
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and milk drop by drop; then
add flour and flavoring. Spread very thinly with a broad,
long-bladed knife on a buttered inverted dripping-pan. Crease in
three-inch squares, and bake in a slow oven until delicately
browned. Place pan on back of range, cut squares apart with a
sharp knife, and roll while warm in tubular or cornucopia shape. If
squares become too brittle to roll, place in oven to soften. If rolled
tubular shape, tie in bunches with narrow ribbon. These are very
attractive, and may be served with sherbet, ice cream, or
chocolate. If rolled cornucopia shape, they may be filled with
whipped cream just before sending to table. Colored wafers may
be made from this mixture by adding leaf green or fruit red. If
colored green, flavor with one-fourth teaspoon almond and
three-fourths teaspoon vanilla. If colored pink, flavor with rose.
Colored wafers must be baked in a very slow oven and turned
frequently, otherwise they will not be of the uniform color that is
desired.

Almond Wafers

Before baking Rolled Wafers, sprinkle with almonds blanched and
chopped. Other nut meats or shredded cocoanut may be used in
place of almonds.

English Rolled Wafers I (Brandy Wafers)

1/2 cup molasses
1 cup flour (scant)
1/2 cup butter
2/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon ginger

Heat molasses to boiling-point, add butter, then slowly, stirring
constantly, flour mixed and sifted with ginger and sugar. Drop
small portions from tip of spoon on a buttered inverted
dripping-pan two inches apart. Bake in a slow oven, cool slightly,
remove from pan, and roll over handle of wooden spoon.
English Rolled Wafers II
To English Rolled Wafers I, add one and one-half cups rolled oats.

Nut Bars

2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 cup flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons English walnut meat, finely chopped
1/4 cup boiling water
1/2 cup brown sugar
Halves of walnuts or almonds

Caramelize two tablespoons sugar, add butter and water, and boil
two minutes. Remove from fire, add remaining sugar, flour mixed
with salt, and walnut meat. Spread as Rolled Wafers. crease in
two-inch squares, and decorate with nut meats. Bake in a slow
oven, and remove from pan at once.

Nut Macaroons

White 1 egg
1 cup pecan nut meats

1 cup brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt

Beat white of egg until stiff and add gradually, while beating
constantly, sugar. Fold in nut meats, finely chopped and sprinkled
with salt. Drop from tip of spoon, one inch apart, on a buttered
sheet, and bake in a moderate oven until delicately browned.

Brownies

1 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup melted butter
1/2 cup flour
1 egg, unbeaten
1/2 cup walnut meats, cut in pieces
2 squares unsweetened chocolate, melted

Mix ingredients in order given. Line a seven-inch square pan with
paraffine paper. Spread mixture evenly in pan and bake in a slow
oven. As soon as taken from oven turn from pan, remove paper,
and cut cake in strips, using a sharp knife. If these directions are
not followed paper will cling to cake, and it will be impossible to
cut it in shapely pieces.

Card Cakes

1/3 cup butter
Jordan almonds
1 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon breakfast cocoa
2 eggs
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
Shredded cocoanut

Cream the butter, add sugar, eggs well beaten, flour, and salt.
Spread mixture on bottom of a buttered inverted dripping-pan,
decorate with almonds blanched and cut in strips, and bake in slow
oven. Cut in desired shape, using heart, spade, and diamond
shaped cutters before removing from pan. To give variety, divide
mixture in halves. To one-half add sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, and
vanilla, then spread on pan and sprinkle with shredded cocoanut.

Chapter XXXI. CAKE.

THE mixing and baking of cake requires more care and judgment
than any other branch of cookery; notwithstanding, it seems the
one most frequently attempted by the inexperienced.

Two kinds of cake mixtures are considered: 

I. Without butter. Example: Sponge Cakes.

II. With butter. Examples: Cup and Pound Cakes.

In cake making (1) the best ingredients are essential; (2) great care
must be taken in measuring and combining ingredients; (3) pans
must be properly prepared; (4) oven heat must be regulated, and
cake watched during baking.

Best tub butter, fine granulated sugar, fresh eggs, and pastry flour
are essentials for good cake. Coarse granulated sugar, bought by so
many, if used in cake making, gives a coarse texture and hard
crust. Pastry flour contains more starch and less gluten than bread
flour, therefore makes a lighter, more tender cake. If bread flour
must be used, allow two tablespoons less for each cup than the
recipe calls for. Flour differs greatly in thickening properties; for
this reason it is always well when using from a new bag to try a
small cake, as the amount of flour given may not make the perfect
loaf. In winter, cake may be made of less flour than in summer.

Before attempting to mix cake, study How to Measure (p. 25) and
How to Combine Ingredients (p. 26).

Look at the fire, and replenish by sprinkling on a small quantity of
coal if there is not sufficient heat to effect the baking.

To Mix Sponge Cake. Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Beat
yolks until thick and lemon-colored, using an egg-beater; add
sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add flavoring. Beat
whites until stiff and dry, when they will fly from the beater, and
add to the first mixture. Mix and sift flour with salt, and cut and
fold in at the last. If mixture is beaten after the addition of flour,
much of the work already done of enclosing a large amount of air
will be undone by breaking air bubbles. These rules apply to a
mixture where baking powder is not employed.

To Mix Butter Cakes. An earthen bowl should always be used for
mixing cake, and a wooden cake-spoon with slits lightens the
labor. Measure dry ingredients, and mix and sift baking powder
and spices, if used, with flour. Count out number of eggs required,
breaking each separately that there may be no loss should a stale
egg chance to be found in the number, separating yolks from
whites if rule so specifies. Measure butter, then liquid. Having
everything in readiness, the mixing may be quickly accomplished.
If butter is very hard, by allowing it to stand a short time in a warm
room it is measured and creamed much easier. If time cannot be
allowed for this to be done, warm bowl by pouring in some hot
water, letting stand one minute, then emptying and wiping dry.
Avoid overheating bowl, as butter will become oily rather than
creamy. Put butter in bowl, and cream by working with a wooden
spoon until soft and of a creamy consistency; then add sugar
gradually, and continue beating. Add yolks of eggs or whole eggs
beaten until light, liquid, and flour mixed and sifted with baking
powder; or liquid and flour may be added alternately. When yolks
and whites of eggs are beaten separately, whites are usually added
at the last, as is the case when whites of eggs alone are used. A
cake can be made fine-grained only by long beating, although light
and delicate with a small amount of beating. Never stir cake after
the final beating, remembering that beating motion should always
be the last used. Fruit, when added to cake, is usually floured to
prevent its settling to the bottom. This is not necessary if it is
added directly after the sugar, which is desirable in all dark cakes.
If a light fruit cake is made, fruit added in this way discolors the
loaf. Citron is first cut in thin slices, then in strips, floured, and put
in between layers of cake mixtures. Raisins are seeded and cut,
rather than chopped. To seed raisins, wet tips of fingers in a cup of
warm water. Then break skins with fingers or cut with a vegetable
knife; remove seeds, and put in cup of water. This is better than
covering raisins with warm water; if this be done, water clings to
fruit, and when dredged with flour a pasty mass is formed on the
outside. Washed currants, put up in packages, are quite free from
stems and foreign substances, and need only picking over and
rolling in flour. Currants bought in bulk need thorough cleaning.
First roll in flour, which helps to start dirt; wash in cold water,
drain, and spread to dry; then roll again in flour before using.

To Butter and Fill Pans Grease pans with melted fat, applying the
same with a butter brush. If butter is used, put in a small saucepan
and place on back of range; when melted, salt will settle to the
bottom; butter is then called clarified. Just before putting in
mixture, dredge pans thoroughly with flour, invert, and shake pan
to remove all superfluous flour, leaving only a thin coating which
adheres to butter. This gives to cake a smooth under surface,
which is especially desirable if cake is to be frosted. Pans may be
lined with paper. If this is done, paper should just cover bottom of
pan and project over sides. Then ends of pan and paper are
buttered.

In filling pans, have the mixture come well to the corners and sides
of pans, leaving a slight depression in the centre, and when baked
the cake will be perfectly flat on top. Cake pans should be filled
nearly two-thirds full if cake is expected to rise to top of pan.

To Bake Cake. The baking of cake is more critical than the
mixing. Many a well-mixed cake has been spoiled in the baking.
No oven thermometer has yet proved practical, and although many
teachers of cookery have given oven tests, experience alone has
proved the most reliable teacher. In baking cake, divide the time
required into quarters. During the first quarter the mixture should
begin to rise; second quarter, continue rising and begin to brown;
third quarter, continue browning; fourth quarter, finish baking and
shrink from pan. If oven is too hot, open check and raise back
covers, or leave oven door ajar. It is sometimes necessary to cover
cake with brown paper; there is, however, danger of cake adhering
to paper. Cake should be often looked at during baking, and
providing oven door is opened and closed carefully, there is no
danger of this causing cake to fall. Cake should not be moved in
oven until it has risen its full height; after this it is usually
desirable to move it that it may be evenly browned. Cake when
done shrinks from the pan, and in most cases this is a sufficient
test; however, in pound cakes this rule does not apply. Pound and
rich fruit cakes are tested by pressing surface with tip of finger. If
cake feels firm to touch and follows finger back into place, it is
safe to remove it from the oven. When baking cake arrange to have
nothing else in the oven, and place loaf or loaves as near the centre
of oven as possible. If placed close to fire box, one side of loaf is
apt to become burned before sufficiently risen to turn. If cake is
put in too slow an oven, it often rises over sides of pan and is of
very coarse texture; if put in too hot an oven, it browns on top
before sufficiently risen, and in its attempt to rise breaks through
the crust, thus making an unsightly loaf. Cake will also crack on
top if too much flour has been used. The oven should be kept at as
nearly uniform temperature as possible. Small and layer cakes
require a hotter oven than loaf cakes.

To Remove Cake From Pans. Remove cake from pans as soon as it
comes from the oven, by inverting pan on a wire cake cooler, or on
a board covered with a piece of old linen. If cake is inclined to
stick, do not hurry it from pan, but loosen with knife around edges,
and rest pan on its four sides successively; thus by its own weight
cake may be helped out.

To Frost Cake. Where cooked frostings are used, it makes but little
difference whether they are spread on hot or cold cake. Where
uncooked frostings are used, it is best to have the cake slightly
warm, with the exception of Confectioners' Frosting, where boiling
water is employed.

Hot Water Sponge Cake

Yolks 2 eggs
Whites two eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup flour
3/8 cup hot water or milk
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon lemon extract
1/4 teaspoon salt

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add one-half the
sugar gradually, and continue beating; then add water, remaining
sugar, lemon extract, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flour
mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt. Bake twenty-five
minutes in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured shallow pan.

Cheap Sponge Cake

Yolks 3 eggs
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon hot water
Whites 3 eggs
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons vinegar

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar
gradually, and continue beating; then add water, flour mixed and
sifted with baking powder and salt, whites of eggs beaten until
stiff, and vinegar. Bake thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven, in a
buttered and floured cake pan.

Cream Sponge Cake

Yolks 4 eggs
Flour
1 cup sugar
11/4 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons cold water
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons corn-starch
Whites 4 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon extract

Beat yolks of eggs and water until thick and lemon-colored, add
sugar gradually, and beat two minutes. Put corn-starch in a cup and
fill cup with flour. Mix and sift corn-starch and flour with baking
powder and salt, and add to first mixture. When thoroughly mixed
add whites of eggs beaten until stiff, and flavoring. Bake thirty
minutes in a moderate oven. This is an excellent mixture to use for
whipped cream pies or to bake in an angel cake pan.

Petit Four

Follow recipe for Cream Sponge Cake. Bake in a shallow pan,
cool, and shape, using a small round cutter. Split, and remove a
small portion of cake from the centre of each piece. Fill cavities of
one-half the pieces with whipped cream sweetened and flavored,
cover with remaining pieces, and press firmly together. Nuts or
glace fruits cut in pieces may be added to cream. Melt fondant,
color, and flavor to taste. Dip cakes in fondant, decorate tops with
pistachio nuts, violets, or glace cherries, and place each in a paper
case.

Sponge Cake

Yolks 6 eggs
Grated rind one-half lemon
1 cup sugar
Whites 6 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon salt

Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, and
continue beating, using egg-beater. Add lemon juice, rind, and
whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. When whites are partially
mixed with yolks, remove beater, and carefully cut and fold in
flour mixed and sifted with salt. Bake one hour in a slow oven, in
an angel cake pan or deep narrow pan.

Genuine sponge cake contains no rising properties, but is made
light by the quantity of air beaten into both yolks and whites of
eggs, and the expansion of that air in baking. It requires a slow
oven. All so-called sponge cakes which have the addition of soda
and cream of tartar or baking powder require same oven
temperature as butter cakes. When failures are made in Sunshine
and Angel Cake, they are usually traced to baking in too slow an
oven, and removing from oven before thoroughly cooked.

Sunshine Cake

Whites 10 eggs
1 teaspoon lemon extract
11/2 cups powdered sugar
1 cup flour
Yolks 6 eggs
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, add sugar gradually, and
continue beating; then add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and
lemon-colored, and extract. Cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted
with cream of tartar. Bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven in an
angel-cake pan.

Mocha Cake

To one-half recipe for Sunshine Cake add one-half cup English
walnut meats broken in pieces. Bake in a mediumsized angel-cake
pan; cool, split, and fill with whipped cream sweetened and
flavored with coffee essence. Cover top with Confectioners'
Frosting, flavored with coffee essence.

Angel Cake

Whites 8 eggs
3/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites of eggs until frothy; add cream of tartar, and continue
beating until eggs are stiff; then add sugar gradually. Fold in flour
mixed with salt and sifted four times, and add vanilla. Bake
forty-five to fifty minutes in an unbuttered angel-cake pan. After
cake has risen and begins to brown, cover with a buttered paper.

Moonshine Cake

Whites 10 eggs
Yolks 7 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups sugar
7/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 cup pastry flour

Add salt to whites of eggs and beat until light. Sift in cream of
tartar and beat until stiff. Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon
colored and add two heaping tablespoons beaten whites. To
remaining whites add gradually sugar measured after five siftings.
Add almond extract and combine mixtures. Cut and fold in flour,
measured after five siftings. Bake in angel-cake pan, first dipped in
cold water, in a slow oven one hour. Have a pan of hot water in
oven during the baking. Cover with

Maraschino Frosting. Follow recipe for Ice Cream Frosting ,
adding to sugar one-half teaspoon cream of tartar, and flavor with
maraschino. Sprinkle with almonds blanched, shredded, and baked
until delicately browned.

Lady Fingers

Whites 3 eggs
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup powdered sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, add sugar gradually, and
continue beating. Then add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and
lemon-colored, and flavoring. Cut and fold in flour mixed and
sifted with salt. Shape four and one-half inches long and one inch
wide on a tin sheet covered with unbuttered paper, using a pastry
bag and tube. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake eight
minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from paper with a knife.
Lady Fingers are much used for lining moulds that are to be filled
with whipped cream mixtures. They are often served with frozen
desserts, and sometimes put together in pairs with a thin coating of
whipped cream between, when they are attractive for children's
parties.

Sponge Drops

Drop Lady Finger mixture from tip of spoon on unbuttered paper.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake eight minutes in a
moderate oven.

Almond Tart

4 eggs
1/2 cup Jordan almonds, blanched and finely chopped
1 cup powdered sugar
1/3 cup grated chocolate
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup cracker dust

Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored; add sugar
gradually, then fold in white of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Add
chocolate, almonds, baking powder, and cracker dust. Bake in a
round pan. Cool, split, and put whipped cream, sweetened and
flavored, between and on top. Garnish with angelica and candied
cherries. This makes a most attractive dessert when baked in
individual tins. As soon as cool, remove centres, and fill with
whipped cream, forced through a pastry bag.

Jelly Roll

3 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 tablespoon milk
1 cup flour
1 tablespoon melted butter

Beat egg until light, add sugar gradually, milk, flour mixed and
sifted with baking powder and salt, then butter. Line the bottom of
a dripping-pan with paper; butter paper and sides of pan. Cover
bottom of pan with mixture, and spread evenly. Bake twelve
minutes in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn on a paper
sprinkled with powdered sugar. Quickly remove paper, and cut off
a thin strip from sides and ends of cake. Spread with jelly or jam
which has been beaten to consistency to spread easily, and roll.
After cake has been rolled, roll paper around cake that it may
better keep in shape. The work must be done quickly, or cake will
crack in rolling.

Election Cake

1/2 cup butter
8 finely chopped figs
1 cup bread dough
11/4 cups flour
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon soda
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup sour milk
1/4 teaspoon clove
2/3 cup raisins seeded, and cut in pieces
1/4 teaspoon mace
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt

Work butter into dough, using the hand. Add egg well beaten,
sugar, milk, fruit dredged with two tablespoons flour, and flour
mixed and sifted with remaining ingredients. Put into a
well-buttered bread pan, cover, and let rise one and one-fourth
hours. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Cover with Boiled Milk
Frosting.

One Egg Cake

1/4 cup of butter
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup sugar
11/2 cups flour
1 egg
21/2 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and egg well beaten. Mix
and sift flour and baking powder, add alternately with milk to first
mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow pan. Spread with
Chocolate Frosting.

Chocolate Cake I

1/2 cup butter
11/2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 small eggs
2 ozs. chocolate, melted
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs well
beaten, then whites of eggs beaten until stiff. Add milk, flour
mixed and sifted with baking powder, and beat thoroughly. Then
add chocolate and vanilla. Bake forty minutes in a shallow cake
pan.

Chocolate Cake II

1/2 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon soda
11/2 cups sugar
3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup milk
Whites 5 eggs
21/4 cups flour
2 squares unsweetened chocolate, grated

Cream the butter; add sugar gradually, milk, and flour mixed and
sifted with soda and cream of tartar. Beat whites of eggs, and add
to first mixture; then add chocolate, and beat thoroughly. Bake
forty-five minutes in a moderate oven.

Chocolate Marshmallow Cake

Follow recipe for Chocolate Cake II. As soon as cake is removed
from pan, cover bottom with marshmallows pulled apart with tips
of fingers, but not quite separated into halves. The exposed soft
surface will quickly adhere to hot cake. Pour over Chocolate
Fudge Frosting.

Chocolate Nougat Cake

1/4 cup butter
3 teaspoons baking powder
11/2 cups powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 egg
2 squares chocolate, melted
1 cup milk
1/3 cup powdered sugar
2 cups bread flour
2/3 cup almonds, blanched and shredded

Cream the butter, add gradually one and one-half cups sugar, and
egg unbeaten; when well mixed, add two-thirds milk, flour mixed
and sifted with baking powder, and vanilla. To melted chocolate
add one-third cup powdered sugar, place on range, add gradually
remaining milk, and cook until smooth. Cool slightly, and add to
cake mixture. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in round layer cake
pans. Put between layers and on top of cake White Mountain
Cream sprinkled with almonds.
Chocolate Dominoes

1/2 cup pecan nut meat
1/2 cup dates
1/2 cup English walnut meat
Grated rind 1 orange
1/2 cup figs
1 tablespoon orange juice
1 square chocolate, melted

Mix nut meats, figs, and dates, and force through a meat chopper,
or chop finely. Add remaining ingredients, toss on a board
sprinkled with powdered sugar, and roll to one-third inch in
thickness. Cut in domino shapes, spread thinly with melted
unsweetened chocolate, and decorate with small pieces blanched
almonds to imitate dominoes.

Cream Pie I

1/3 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
13/4 cups flour
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
21/2 teaspoons baking powder

Mix as one Egg Cake. Bake in round layer cake pans. Put Cream
Filling between layers and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

Cream Pie II

Make as Cream Pie I, using French Cream Filling in place of
Cream Filling.

Cocoanut Pie

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Put Cocoanut Filling between
layers and on top.

Washington Pie

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Put raspberry jam or jelly
between layers and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

Chocolate Pie

2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup sugar
11/3 cups flour
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking powder

Mix and bake same as Cream Pie. Split layers, and spread between
and on top of each a thin layer of Chocolate Frosting.

Orange Cake

1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
12/3 cups flour
2 eggs
21/2 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk.
Then add flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Bake in a
thin sheet in a dripping-pan. Cut in halves, spread one-half with
Orange Filling. Put over other half, and cover with Orange
Frosting.

Quick Cake

1/3 cup soft butter
13/4 cups flour
11/3 cups brown sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 lb. dates, stoned and cut in pieces

Put ingredients in a bowl and beat all together for three minutes,
using a wooden cake spoon. Bake in a buttered and floured cake
pan thirty-five to forty minutes. If directions are followed this
makes a most satisfactory cake; but if ingredients are added
separately it will not prove a success.

Boston Favorite Cake

2/3 cup butter
1 cup milk
2 cups sugar
31/2 cups flour
4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs beaten until light, then
milk and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. This recipe
makes two loaves, or one-half the mixture may be baked in
individual tins.

Cream Cake

2 eggs
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup thin cream
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
12/3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon mace
1/4 teaspoon ginger

Put unbeaten eggs in a bowl, add sugar and cream, and beat
vigorously. Mix and sift remaining ingredients, then add to first
mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow cake pan.

Currant Cake

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
2 cups flour
2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking powder
Yolk 1 egg
1 cup currants mixed with
1 tablespoon flour

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and eggs and egg yolk well
beaten. Then add milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder,
and currants. Bake forty minutes in buttered and floured cake pan.

Citron Cake

1/4 lb. butter
1/2 lb. flour
1/2 lb. sugar
1 tablespoon brandy
3 eggs
1 cup citron, thinly sliced, then cut in strips
1/2 cup milk
11/2 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten,
milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder. Beat whites
of eggs until stiff, and add to first mixture, then add brandy and
citron. Bake in a moderate oven one hour.

Velvet Cake

1/2 cup butter
11/2 cups flour
11/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup corn-starch
Yolks 4 eggs
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup cold water
Whites 4 eggs
1/3 cup almonds, blanched, and shredded

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well beaten,
and water. Mix and sift flour, corn-starch, and baking powder, and
add to first mixture; then add whites of eggs beaten until stiff.
After putting in pan, cover with almonds and sprinkle with
powdered sugar. Bake forty minutes in a moderate oven.

Walnut Cake

1/2 cup butter
13/4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
23/4 teaspoons baking powder
Yolks 3 eggs
Whites 2 eggs
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup walnut meat, broken in pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake forty-five minutes in a
moderate oven. Cover with White Mountain Cream, crease in
squares, and put one-half walnut on each square.

Spanish Cake

1/2 cup butter
13/4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
Yolks 2 eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup milk
Whites 2 eggs

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in shallow tins and spread
between and on top Caramel Frosting.

Cup Cakes

2/3 cup butter
1 cup milk
2 cups sugar
31/4 cups flour
4 eggs
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon mace

Put butter and sugar in a bowl, and stir until well mixed; add eggs
well beaten, then milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking
powder and mace. Bake in individual tins. Cover with Chocolate
Frosting.

Cinnamon Cakes

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 cup sugar
11/4 cups flour
2 eggs
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon cinnamon
Mix ingredients in the order given, and bake in individual buttered
cake tins.

Almond Cakes

1/2 cup butter
2 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
11/3 cups flour
1/3 cup milk
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup Jordan almonds, blanched and cut in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in individual cake pans.

Brownies

1/3 cup butter
1 egg, well beaten

1/3 cup powdered sugar
7/8 cup bread flour
1/3 cup Porto Rico molasses
1 cup pecan meat, cut in pieces

Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in small shallow fancy cake
tins, garnishing top of each cake with one half pecan.

Chocolate Sponge

1/2 cup butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup prepared powdered cocoa
1/4 teaspoon clove
3 eggs
1/2 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
1 cup flour
3 teaspoons baking powder

Cream the butter; add cocoa, yolks of eggs well beaten, sugar
mixed with cinnamon and clove, and water. Beat the whites of
eggs, and add to first mixture alternately with flour mixed and
sifted with baking powder. Bake in small tins from fifteen to
twenty minutes.
Devil's Food Cake I

1/2 cup butter
5 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups sugar
Whites 4 eggs
Yolks 4 eggs
4 squares chocolate
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
22/3 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, and add gradually one-half the sugar. Beat yolks
of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, and add gradually
remaining sugar. Combine mixtures, and add alternately milk and
flour mixed and sifted with baking powder and salt; then add
whites of eggs beaten stiff, chocolate melted, and vanilla. Bake
forty-five to fifty minutes in an angel cake pan. Cover with White
Mountain Cream .

Devil's Food Cake II

4 squares unsweetened chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup sour milk
1/2 cup sweet milk
1 egg
Yolk 1 egg
11/8 cups flour
1/4 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon soda
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add one-half cup sugar, and
gradually sweet milk; then add yolk of egg, and cook until mixture
thickens. Set aside to cool. Cream the butter, add gradually
one-half cup sugar, egg well beaten, sour milk, and flour mixed
and sifted with soda. Combine mixtures and add vanilla. Bake in
shallow cake pans, and put between and on top boiled frosting.
Add to filling one-fourth cup raisins seeded and cut in pieces, if
desired.

Chocolate Vienna Cake
3/4 cup butter
11/2 cups flour
7/8 cup sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
Yolks 5 eggs
Whites 5 eggs
4 squares unsweetened chocolate
Apricot or Orange Marmalade

Mix ingredients in order given, and bake in small tins. Remove
from tins, cool, take out a small portion of cake from the centre of
each, and fill cavity with marmalade. Cover tops of cake with
Marshmallow Frosting or Chocolate Frosting IV.

Chocolate Fruit Cake

1/3 cup butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup candied cherries
1/4 cup breakfast cocoa
1/3 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
Yolks 3 eggs
1/2 cup cold water
11/2 tablespoons brandy
11/4 cups bread flour
1/3 cup walnut meats, cut in pieces
3 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 3 eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla

Cover fruit with brandy and let stand several hours. Mix
ingredients in order given, and bake in deep cake pan fifty
minutes. Cover with White Mountain Cream, and as soon as
frosting is set, spread as thinly as possible with melted chocolate.

Ribbon Cake

1/2 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon mace
Yolks 4 eggs
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup milk
1/3 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
31/2 cups flour
5 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup figs, finely chopped
Whites 4 eggs
1 tablespoon molasses

Mix first seven ingredients in order given. Bake two-thirds of the
mixture in two layer-cake pans. To the remainder add spices, fruit,
and molasses, and bake in a layer-cake pan. Put layers together
with jelly (apple usually being preferred, as it has less flavor),
having the dark layer in the centre.

Golden Spice Cake

1/2 cup butter
21/4 cups flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon soda
Yolks 4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon clove
1/2 cup molasses
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 cup milk
Few grains cayenne
Few gratings lemon rind

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, egg and yolks of eggs well
beaten, molasses, milk, flour, mixed and sifted with spices,
cayenne, and lemon rind. Bake in a moderate oven one hour, and
cover with White Mountain Cream .

Walnut Mocha Cake

1/2 cup butter
13/4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup coffee infusion
Whites 3 eggs
3/4 cup walnut meats, broken in pieces

Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Cover with
Confectioners' Frosting, using cream, and flavoring with vanilla.

Birthday Cake

1/2 cup butter
2 tablespoons Sherry
11/4 cups brown sugar
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
Yolks 2 eggs
2/3 cup milk
1/2 cup walnut meats, cut in pieces
21/4 cups flour
31/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup currants
1 teaspoon orange extract
2 tablespoons candied orange peel, finely cut
1 teaspoon vanilla

Whites 2 eggs

Follow directions for making butter-cake mixtures. Bake in a
buttered and floured angel-cake pan in a slow oven one and
one-quarter hours. Cover with Ornamental Frosting .

Rich Coffee Cake

1 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon clove
2 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon mace
4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 tablespoons molasses
3/4 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1 cup cold boiled coffee
33/4 cups flour
3/4 cup currants
5 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons brandy

Follow directions for making butter-cake mixtures. Bake in deep
cake pans.
Nut Spice Cake

1/2 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon clove
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 nutmeg, grated
1/2 cup molasses
1 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
Yolks 4 eggs
1 cup sour milk
1/2 cup currants
21/2 cups flour
1/2 cup English walnut meats, cut in pieces
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 teaspoons baking powder

Mix ingredients in the order given. This recipe makes two loaves.

Dark Fruit Cake

1/2 cup butter
2 eggs
3/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon soda
3/4 cup currants
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon mace
1/2 cup molasses
1/4 teaspoon clove
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract

Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Bake in deep
cake pans one and one-quarter hours.

Nut Cakes

Meat from 1 lb. pecans
1/4 cup flour
1 lb. powdered sugar
Whites 6 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

Pound nut meat and mix with sugar and flour. Beat whites of eggs
until stiff, add first mixture and vanilla. Drop from tip of
tablespoon (allowing one spoonful for each cake) on a tin sheet
covered with buttered paper. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate
oven.

Snow Cake

1/4 cup butter
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
Whites 2 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla or
12/3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five minutes in a
deep narrow pan.

Lily Cake

1/3 cup butter
21/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar
Whites 3 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1/3 teaspoon lemon extract
13/4 cups flour
2/3 teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes.

Corn-starch Cake

1 cup butter
41/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups sugar
Whites 5 eggs
1 cup milk
3/4 teaspoon vanilla or
1 cup corn-starch
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
2 cups flour

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two
loaves.

Prune Almond Cake

Bake one-half Corn-starch Cake mixture in a dripping-pan. Cut in
two crosswise, spread between layers Prune Almond Filling, and
cover top with White Mountain Cream.

Prune Almond Filling. To one-half the recipe for White Mountain
Cream add eight soft prunes stoned and cut in pieces, and
one-fourth cup almonds blanched and cut in pieces.

Marshmallow Cake

1/2 cup butter
3 teaspoons baking powder
11/2 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup milk
Whites 5 eggs
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, and
put Marshmallow Cream between the layers and on the top.

Fig Eclair

1/2 cup butter (scant)
17/8 cups flour
1 cup sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk
Whites 4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, put
between layers Fig Filling, and sprinkle top with powdered sugar.

Banana Cake

Mix and bake Fig Eclair mixture; put between layers White
Mountain Cream covered with thin slices of banana, and frost the
top. This should be eaten the day it is made.

Bride's Cake

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking powder
11/2 cups sugar
21/2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Whites six eggs
1/2 teaspoon almond extract

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five to fifty
minutes in deep, narrow pans. Cover with white frosting.

Ice Cream Cake

1/2 cup butter
1 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups sugar
3 cups flour
Whites 4 eggs
Vanilla

Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in layers, and put
between layers and on top Ice Cream Frosting.

Light Fruit Cake

To Fig Eclair mixture add one-half cup raisins seeded and cut in
pieces, two ounces citron thinly sliced and cut in strips, and
one-third cup walnut meat cut in pieces. In making mixture,
reserve one tablespoon flour to use for dredging fruit.

White Nut Cake

3/4 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
11/2 cups sugar
21/2 cups flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
Whites 8 eggs
1 cup walnut meat cut in pieces
Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two
loaves.

Golden Cake

1/4 cup butter
Yolks 5 eggs
7/8 cup flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup milk
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon orange extract

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and yolks of eggs beaten
until thick and lemon-colored, and extract. Mix and sift flour and
baking powder, and add alternately with milk to first mixture.
Omit orange extract, add one-half cup nut meat cut in small
pieces, and bake in individual tins.

Mocha Cakes

Bake a sponge cake mixture in sheets. Shape in small rounds, and
cut in three layers. Put layers together with a thin coating of
frosting. Spread frosting around sides and roll in shredded
cocoanut. Ornament top with frosting forced through a pastry bag
and tube, using the rose tube. Begin at centre of top and coil
frosting around until surface is covered. Garnish centre of top with
a candied cherry.

Frosting. Wash one-third cup butter, add one cup powdered sugar
gradually, and beat until creamy. Then add one cup Cream Filling
which has been cooled. Flavor with one-half teaspoon vanilla and
one and one-half squares melted chocolate.

This frosting is sometimes colored pink, yellow, green, or
lavender, and flavored with rose, vanilla, or a combination of
almond and vanilla. Large Mocha Cakes are baked in two round
layer cake tins, each cake being cut in two layers. Layers are put
together as small cakes. The top is spread smoothly with frosting,
then ornamented with large pieces of candied fruits arranged in a
design, and frosting forced through pastry bag and tube.

Cream Cakes

1/2 cup butter
4 eggs
1 cup boiling water
1 cup flour

Pour butter and water in saucepan and place on front of range. As
soon as boiling-point is reached, add flour all at once, and stir
vigorously. Remove from fire as soon as mixed, and add unbeaten
eggs one at a time, beating, until thoroughly mixed, between the
addition of eggs. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered sheet, one and
one-half inches apart, shaping with handle of spoon as nearly
circular as possible, having mixture slightly piled in centre. Bake
thirty minutes in a moderate oven. With a sharp knife make a cut
in each large enough to admit of Cream Filling. This recipe makes
eighteen small cream cakes. For flavoring cream filling use lemon
extract. If cream cakes are removed from oven before being
thoroughly cooked, they will fall. If in doubt, take one from oven,
and if it does not fall, this is sufficient proof that others are
cooked.

French Cream Cakes

Fill Cream Cakes with Cream Sauce I.

French Strawberry Cream Cakes

Shape cream cake mixture oblong, making twelves cakes. Split,
and fill with Strawberry Cream Filling.

Eclairs

Shape cream cake mixture four and one-half inches long by one
inch wide, by forcing through a pastry bag and tube. Bake
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Split, and fill with
vanilla, coffee, or chocolate cream filling. Frost with
Confectioners' Frosting to which is added one-third cup melted
Fondant, dipping top of eclairs in frosting while it is hot.

Lemon Queens

1/4 lb. butter
Yolks 4 eggs
1/2 lb. sugar
5 ozs. flour
Grated rind 1 lemon
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon soda (scant)
Whites 4 eggs

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and continue beating. Then
add grated rind, lemon juice, and yolks of eggs beaten until thick
and lemon-colored. Mix and sift soda, salt, and flour; add to first
mixture and beat thoroughly. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Bake
from twenty to twenty-five minutes in small tins.

Queen Cake

2/3 cup butter
Whites 6 eggs
2 cups flour (scant)
11/4 cups powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon soda
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice

Cream the butter, add flour gradually, mixed and sifted with soda,
then add lemon juice. Beat whites of eggs until stiff; add sugar
gradually, and combine the mixtures. Bake fifty minutes in a long
shallow pan. Cover with Opera Caramel Frosting.

Pound Cake

1 lb. butter
Whites 10 eggs
1 lb. sugar
1 lb. flour
Yolks 10 eggs
1/2 teaspoon mace
2 tablespoons brandy

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and continue beating; then
add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored, whites of
eggs beaten until stiff and dry, flour, mace, and brandy. Beat
vigorously five minutes. Bake in a deep pan one and one-fourth
hours in a slow oven; or if to be used for fancy ornamented cakes,
bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in a dripping-pan.

New York Gingerbread
1 cup butter (scant)
5 eggs
11/2 cups flour
11/2 cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons yellow ginger
1 teaspoon baking powder

Cream the butter, and add flour gradually, mixed and sifted with
ginger. Beat the yolks of the eggs until thick and lemon-colored,
and add sugar gradually. Combine mixtures, add whites of eggs,
beaten until stiff, and sift over baking powder. Beat thoroughly,
turn into a buttered deep cake pan, and bake one hour in a
moderate oven.

Newport Pound Cake

Make same as New York Gingerbread, omitting ginger, and
substituting one teaspoon vanilla extract.

Christmas Cakes

Bake Newport Pound Cake in golden-rod pans, cut in fourths
crosswise, spread with Ice Cream Frosting, and garnish with green
leaves, made from ornamental frosting, and round red candies to
imitate berries.

Ginger Pound Cakes

Cream one-half pound butter and add gradually one-half pound
sugar, continuing the beating. Add three-fourths pound flour,
mixed and sifted with two teaspoons baking powder alternately
with four eggs beaten until thick and lemon-colored; then add
one-half pound Canton ginger cut in small pieces. Bake in small
buttered and floured individual cake pans in a slow oven. Cover
with White Mountain Cream .

Molasses Pound Cake

2/3 cup butter
3/4 teaspoon soda
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2/3 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon clove
2/3 cup molasses
1/4 teaspoon mace
21/8 cups flour
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1/3 cup citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, eggs well beaten, and milk
and molasses. Mix and sift flour with soda and spices, and add to
first mixture, then add fruit. Bake in small buttered tins from
twenty-five to thirty minutes in a moderate oven. This recipe
makes twenty-four little cakes.

English Fruit Cake

1 lb. butter
2 tablespoons milk
1 lb. light brown sugar
3 lbs. currants
9 eggs
2 lbs. raisins, seeded and finely chopped
1 lb. flour
2 teaspoons mace
1/2 lb. almonds, blanched and shredded
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon soda
1 lb. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly.
Separate yolks from whites of eggs; beat yolks until thick and
lemon-colored, whites until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture.
Then add milk, fruit, nuts, and flour mixed and sifted with mace,
cinnamon, and soda. Put in buttered deep pans, cover with buttered
paper, steam three hours, and bake one and one half hours in a
slow oven, or bake four hours in a very slow oven. Rich fruit cake
is always more satisfactory when done if the cooking is
accomplished by steaming.

Wedding Cake I

1 lb. butter
1/2 teaspoon clove
1 lb. sugar
3 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
12 eggs
1 lb. flour
1 lb. currants
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 lb. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
Nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon each
Allspice
1 lb. figs, finely chopped
Mace
1/4 cup brandy
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly.
Separate yolks from whites of eggs, beat yolks until thick and
lemon-colored, whites until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture.
Add flour (excepting one-third cup, which should be reserved to
dredge fruit) mixed and sifted with spices, brandy, and lemon
juice. Then add fruit, except citron, dredged with reserved flour.
Dredge citron with flour and put in layers between cake mixture
when putting in the pan. Bake same as English Fruit Cake.

Wedding Cake II

1 lb. butter
3 lbs. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1 lb. brown sugar
12 eggs
2 lbs. Sultana raisins
1 cup molasses
11/2 lbs. citron, thinly sliced and cut in strips
1 lb. flour
4 teaspoons cinnamon
1 lb. currants
4 teaspoons allspice
1/2 preserved lemon rind
11/2 teaspoons mace
1/2 preserved orange rind
1 nutmeg, grated
1 cup brandy
1/4 teaspoon soda
4 squares chocolate, melted
1 tablespoon hot water

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, and beat thoroughly.
Separate yolks from whites of eggs, and beat yolks until thick and
lemon-colored. Add to first mixture, then add flour (excepting one
third cup, which should be reserved to dredge fruit), mixed and
sifted with spices, fruit dredged with flour, lemon rind and orange
rind finely chopped, brandy. chocolate, and whites of eggs beaten
until stiff and dry. Just before putting into pans, add soda dissolved
in hot water. Cover pans with buttered paper, and steam four
hours. Finish cooking by leaving in a warm oven over night.

Imperial Cake

1/2 lb. butter
1/2 lb. raisins, seeded and cut in pieces
1/2 lb. sugar
Yolks 5 eggs
1/2 cup walnut meat, broken in pieces
Whites 5 eggs
Grated rind 1/2 lemon
1/2 lb. flour
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon soda

Mix same as Pound Cake, adding raisins dredged with flour, and
nuts at the last.

Chapter XXXII. CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS.

Cream Filling

7/8 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/3 cup flour
2 cups scalded milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla or
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract

Mix dry ingredients, add eggs slightly beaten, and pour on
gradually scalded milk. Cook fifteen minutes in double boiler,
stirring constantly until thickened, afterwards occasionally. Cool
and flavor.

Chocolate Cream Filling

Put one and one-fourth squares unsweetened chocolate in a
saucepan and melt over hot water. Add to Cream Filling, using in
making one cup sugar in place of seven-eighths cup.

Coffee Cream Filling

Scald milk with two tablespoons ground coffee, strain, and make
same as Cream Filling.

French Cream Filling

3/4 cup thick cream
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup milk
White one egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Dilute cream with milk and beat until stiff, using an egg-beater.
Add sugar, white of egg beaten until stiff, and vanilla.

Strawberry Filling

1 cup thick cream
White 1 egg
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup strawberries
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat cream until stiff, using an egg-beater, add sugar, white of egg
beaten until stiff, strawberries mashed, and vanilla.

Lemon Filling

1 cup sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice
21/2 tablespoons flour
1 egg
Grated rind 2 lemons
1 teaspoon butter

Mix sugar and flour, add grated rind, lemon juice, and egg slightly
beaten. Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add mixture, and stir
constantly until boiling-point is reached. Care must be taken that
mixture does not adhere to bottom of saucepan. Cool before
spreading.

Orange Filling
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup orange juice
21/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
Grated rind 1/2 orange
1 egg slightly beaten
1 teaspoon butter

Mix ingredients in order given. Cook ten minutes in double boiler,
stirring constantly. Cool before spreading.

Chocolate Filling

21/2 squares unsweetened chocolate
3 tablespoons milk
1 cup powdered sugar
Yolk 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add one-half the sugar, and milk;
add remaining sugar, and yolk of egg; then cook in double boiler
until it thickens, stirring constantly at first, that mixture may be
perfectly smooth. Cool slightly, flavor, and spread.

Nut or Fruit Filling

To White Mountain Cream add chopped walnuts, almonds, figs,
dates, or raisins, separately or in combination.

Cocoanut Filling

Whites 2 eggs
Fresh grated cocoanut
Powdered sugar

Beat whites of eggs on a platter with a fork until stiff. Add enough
powdered sugar to spread. Spread over cake, sprinkle thickly with
cocoanut. Use for layer cake, having filling between and on top.

Lemon Cocoanut Cream

Juice and grated rind 1 lemon
Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup powdered sugar
1 cup shredded cocoanut
Mix lemon juice and rind with sugar and yolks of eggs slightly
beaten; cook ten minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly; then
add cocoanut. Cool, and use as a filling for Corn-starch Cake, or
any cake made from the whites of eggs.

Fig Filling

1/2 lb. figs, finely chopped
1/3 cup boiling water
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Mix ingredients in the order given and cook in double boiler until
thick enough to spread. Spread while hot. Figs may be chopped
quickly by forcing through a meat chopper, stirring occasionally.

Marshmallow Paste

3/4 cup sugar
1/4 lb. marshmallows
1/4 cup milk
2 tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Put sugar and milk in a saucepan, heat slowly to boiling-point
without stirring, and boil six minutes. Break marshmallows in
pieces and melt in double boiler, add hot water, and cook until
mixture is smooth, then add hot syrup gradually, stirring
constantly. Beat until cool enough to spread, then add vanilla. This
may be used for both filling and frosting.

Pistachio Paste

To Marshmallow Paste add a few drops extract of almond,
one-third cup pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, and leaf green
to color. Use same as Marshmallow Paste.

Prune Almond Filling

To White Mountain Cream add one-half cup selected prunes,
stoned and cut in pieces, and one-third cup almonds blanched and
chopped.

Confectioners' Frosting

2 tablespoons boiling water or cream
Confectioners' sugar

Flavoring

To liquid add enough sifted sugar to make of right consistency to
spread; then add flavoring. Fresh fruit juice may be used in place
of boiling water. This is a most satisfactory frosting, and is both
easily and quickly made.

Orange Frosting

Grated rind 1 orange
1 tablespoon orange juice
1 teaspoon brandy
Yolk 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Confectioners' sugar

Add rind to brandy and fruit juices; let stand fifteen minutes.
Strain, and add gradually to yolk of egg slightly beaten. Stir in
confectioners' sugar until of right consistency to spread.

Gelatine Frosting

21/2 tablespoons boiling water
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon granulated gelatine
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Dissolve gelatine in boiling water. Add sugar and flavoring and
beat until of right consistency to spread. Crease in squares when
slightly hardened.

Plain Frosting

White 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla or
2 teaspoons cold water
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar

Beat white of egg until stiff; add water and sugar. Beat thoroughly,
then add flavoring. Use more sugar if needed. Spread with a
broad-bladed knife.
Chocolate Frosting I

11/2 squares chocolate
Yolk 1 egg
1/3 cup scalded cream
1/2 teaspoon melted butter
Few grains salt
Confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over hot water, add cream gradually, salt, yolk of
egg, and butter. Stir in confectioners' sugar until of right
consistency to spread: then add flavoring.

Chocolate Frosting II

13/4 cups sugar
4 squares chocolate, melted
3/4 cup hot water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Boil sugar and water, without stirring, until syrup will thread when
dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually on melted
chocolate, and continue beating until of right consistency to
spread; then add flavoring.

Chocolate Frosting III

2 squares chocolate
3 tablespoons hot water
1 teaspoon butter
Confectioners' sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Melt chocolate over boiling water, add butter and hot water. Cool,
and add sugar to make of right consistency to spread. Flavor with
vanilla.

White Mountain Cream

1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla or
1/3 cup cold water
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
White 1 egg
Put sugar and water in saucepan, and stir to prevent sugar from
adhering to saucepan; heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil
without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of
spoon or tines of silver fork. Pour syrup gradually on beaten white
of egg, beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until of
right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour over cake,
spreading evenly with back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm. If not
beaten long enough, frosting will run; if beaten too long, it will not
be smooth. Frosting beaten too long may be improved by adding a
few drops of lemon juice or boiling water. This frosting is soft
inside, and has a glossy surface. If frosting is to be ornamented
with nuts or candied cherries, place them on frosting as soon as
spread.

Ice Cream Frosting

11/2 cups sugar
Whites 2 eggs
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Follow directions for White Mountain Cream.

Boiled Frosting

1 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
Whites 2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla, or
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

Make same as White Mountain Cream. This frosting, on account
of the larger quantity of egg, does not stiffen so quickly as White
Mountain Cream, therefore is more successfully made by the
inexperienced.

Boiled Chocolate Frosting

To White Mountain Cream or Boiled Frosting add one and one
half squares melted chocolate as soon as syrup is added to whites
of eggs.

Brown Frosting

Make same as Boiled Frosting, using brown sugar in place of white
sugar.

Maple Sugar Frosting

1 lb. soft maple sugar
1/2 cup boiling water
Whites 2 eggs

Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with boiling water,
and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring
until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup
gradually on beaten whites, beating mixture constantly, and
continue beating until of right consistency to spread.

Cream Maple Sugar Frosting

1 lb. soft maple sugar
1 cup cream

Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with cream, and stir
occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring until a
ball can be formed when mixture is tried in cold water. Beat until
of right consistency to spread.

Milk Frosting

11/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon butter
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add sugar an milk. Stir, to
be sure that sugar does not adhere to saucepan, heat to
boiling-point, and boil without stirring thirteen minutes. Remove
from fire, and beat until of right consistency to spread; then add
flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon.
Crease as soon as firm.

Caramel Frosting I

Make same as Milk Frosting, adding one and one-half squares
melted chocolate as soon as boiling-point is reached, and flavoring
with one-eighth teaspoon cinnamon.

Caramel Frosting II
11/3 cups sugar
1/2 cup butter
2/3 cup grated maple sugar
2/3 cup cream

Mix ingredients and boil thirteen minutes. Beat until of right
consistency to spread.

Nut Caramel Frosting

11/4 cups brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup water
1/4 cup English walnut meats, broken in pieces
1/4 cup white sugar
Whites 2 eggs

Boil sugar and water as for White Mountain Cream. Pour
gradually, while beating constantly, on beaten whites of eggs, and
continue the beating until mixture is nearly cool. Set pan
containing mixture in pan of boiling water, and cook over range,
stirring constantly, until mixture becomes granular around edge of
pan. Remove from pan of hot water and beat, using a spoon, until
mixture will hold its shape. Add nuts and vanilla, pour on cake,
and spread with back of spoon, leaving a rough surface.

Opera Caramel Frosting

11/2 cups brown sugar
3/4 cup thin cream
1/2 tablespoon butter

Boil ingredients together in a smooth granite saucepan until a ball
can be formed when mixture is tried in cold water. It takes about
forty minutes for boiling. Beat until of right consistency to spread.

Chocolate Fudge Frosting

11/2 tablespoons butter
Few grains salt
1/3 cup unsweetened powdered cocoa
1/4 cup milk
11/4 cups confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt butter, add cocoa, sugar, salt, and milk. Heat to boiling-point,
and boil about eight minutes. Remove from fire and beat until
creamy. Add vanilla and pour over cake.

Mocha Frosting

1/3 cup butter
1 tablespoon breakfast cocoa
11/2 cups confectioners' sugar
Coffee infusion

Cream butter, and add sugar gradually, continuing the beating;
then add cocoa and coffee infusion, drop by drop, until of right
consistency to spread or force through a pastry bag and tube.

Fondant Icing

The mixture in which small cakes are dipped for icing is fondant,
the recipe for which may be found in chapter on Confections.
Cakes for dipping must first be glazed.

To Glaze Cakes. Beat white of one egg slightly, and add one
tablespoon powdered sugar. Apply with a brush to top and sides of
cakes. After glazing, cakes should stand over night before dipping.

To Dip Cakes. Melt fondant over hot water, and color and flavor
as desired. Stir, to prevent crust from forming on top. Take cake to
be dipped on a three-tined fork and lower in fondant three-fourths
the depth of cake. Remove from fondant, invert, and slip from fork
to a board. Decorate with ornamental frosting and nut meat,
candied cherries, angelica, or candied violets. For small
ornamented cakes, pound cake mixture is baked a little more than
one inch thick in shallow pans, and when cool cut in squares,
diamonds, triangles, crescents, etc.

Marshmallow Frosting

Melt one cup white fondant; add the white of one egg beaten until
stiff, and stir over the fire two minutes. Remove from range, and
beat until of right consistency to spread. Flavor with one-fourth
teaspoon water white vanilla. This is a most delicious frosting for
chocolate cake, but will never spread perfectly smooth.

Ornamental Frosting I

2 cups sugar
Whites 3 eggs
1 cup water
1/4 teaspoon tartaric acid

Boil sugar and water until syrup when dropped from tip of spoon
forms a long thread. Pour syrup gradually on beaten whites of
eggs, beating constantly; then add acid and continue beating.
When stiff enough to spread, put a thin coating over cake. Beat
remaining frosting until cold and stiff enough to keep in shape
after being forced through a pastry tube. After first coating on cake
has hardened, cover with a thicker layer, and crease for cutting. If
frosting is too stiff to spread smoothly, thin with a few drops of
water. With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be
ornamented as desired.

Ornamental Frosting II

Whites 3 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Confectioners' sugar, sifted

Put eggs in a large bowl, add two tablespoons sugar, and beat three
minutes, using a perforated wooden spoon. Repeat until one and
one-half cups sugar are used. Add lemon juice gradually, as
mixture thickens. Continue adding sugar by spoonfuls, and beating
until frosting is stiff enough to spread. This may be determined by
taking up some of mixture on back of spoon, and with a case knife
making a cut through mixture; if knife makes a clean cut and
frosting remains parted, it is of right consistency. Spread cake
thinly with frosting; when this has hardened, put on a thicker layer,
having mixture somewhat stiffer than first coating, and then crease
for cutting. To remaining frosting add enough more sugar, that
frosting may keep in shape after being forced through a pastry bag
and tube.

With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as
desired.

Chapter XXXIII. FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS.

ALMOND paste for making macaroons and small fancy cakes may
be bought of dealers who keep confectioners' supplies, although
sometimes a resident baker or confectioner will sell a small
quantity. Almond paste is put up in five-pound tin pails, and retails
for one and one-half dollars per pail. During the cold weather it
will keep after being opened for a long time.

Macaroons

1/2 lb. almond paste
Whites 3 eggs
3/8 lb. powdered sugar

Work together almond paste and sugar on a smooth board or
marble slab. Then add whites of eggs gradually, and work until
mixture is perfectly smooth. Confectioners at first use the hand,
afterwards a palette knife, which is not only of use for mixing but
for keeping board clean. Shape, using a pastry bag and tube, on a
tin sheet covered with buttered paper, one-half inch apart; or drop
mixture from tip of spoon in small piles. Macaroon mixture is stiff
enough to hold its shape, but in baking spreads. Bake fifteen to
twenty minutes in a slow oven. If liked soft, they should be slightly
baked. After removing from oven, invert paper, and wet with a
cloth wrung out of cold water, when macaroons will easily slip off.

Almond Macaroons

Sprinkle Macaroons, before baking, with almonds blanched and
shredded, or chopped.

Crescents

1/2 lb. almond paste
Almonds, blanched and finely chopped
2 ozs. confectioners' sugar
White 1 small egg

Mix same as Macaroons. Shape mixture, which is quite soft, in a
long roll. Cut pieces from roll three-fourths inch long. Roll each
separately in chopped nuts, at the same time shaping to form a
crescent. Bake twenty minutes on a buttered tin sheet in a slow
oven. Cool, and frost with Confectioners' Frosting, made thin
enough to apply with a brush, and flavored with lemon juice until
quite acid. Other nuts may be used in place of almonds.

Cinnamon Bars

10 ozs. almond paste
White 1 egg
5 ozs. confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Mix same as Macaroons. Dredge a board with sugar, knead
mixture slightly, and shape in a long roll. Pat, and roll one-fourth
inch thick, using a rolling-pin. After rolling the piece should be
four inches wide. Spread with frosting made of white of one egg
and two-thirds cup confectioners' sugar beaten together until stiff
enough to spread. Cut in strips four inches long by three-fourths
inch wide. This must be quickly done, as a crust soon forms over
frosting. To accomplish this, use two knives, one placed through
mixture where dividing line is to be made, and the other used to
make a clean sharp cut on both sides of first knife. Knives should
be kept clean by wiping on a damp cloth. Remove strips as soon as
cut, to a tin sheet, greased with lard and then floured. Bake twenty
minutes on centre grate in a slow oven.

Horseshoes

Use Cinnamon Bar mixture. Cover with frosting colored with fruit
red. Cut in strips six inches long by one-half inch wide. As soon as
cut, shape quickly, at the same time carefully, in form of
horseshoes. Bake same as Cinnamon Bars. When cool, make eight
dots with chocolate frosting to represent nails.

Cocoanut Cakes I

1/2 lb. fresh grated cocoanut
6 ozs. sugar and glucose, using one mixing-spoon glucose
Whites 11/2 eggs
German Confectioner

Cook cocoanut, sugar, and glucose in double boiler until mixture
clings to spoon, add whites of eggs, stir vigorously, and cook until
mixture feels sticky when tried between the fingers. Spread in a
wet pan, cover with wet paper, and chill on ice. Shape in small
balls, first dipping hands in cold water. Bake twenty minutes in a
slow oven on a tin sheet greased with white wax.

Cocoanut Cakes II

1 lb. fresh grated cocoanut
3/4 lb. sugar
Whites 2 eggs

Cook, shape, and bake same as Cocoanut Cakes I.

Stuffed Dates I

Make a cut the entire length of dates and remove stones. Fill
cavities with castanea nuts, English walnuts, or blanched almonds,
and shape in original form. Roll in granulated sugar. Pile in rows
on a small plate covered with a doiley. If castanea nuts are used,
with a sharp knife cut off the brown skin which lies next to shell.

Stuffed Dates II

Remove stones from dates and fill cavities with Neufchatel cheese.

Salted Almonds I

Blanch one-fourth pound Jordan almonds and dry on a towel. Put
one-third cup olive oil in a very small saucepan. When hot, put in
one-fourth of the almonds and fry until delicately browned, stirring
to keep almonds constantly in motion. Remove with a spoon or
small skimmer, taking up as little oil as possible. Drain on brown
paper and sprinkle with salt; repeat until all are fried. It may be
necessary to remove some of the salt by wiping nuts with a napkin.

Salted Almonds II

Prepare almonds as for Salted Almonds I. Fry in one-third cup fat,
using half lard and half clarified butter or all cocoanut butter.
Drain, and sprinkle with salt.

Salted Peanuts

In buying peanuts for salting, get those which have not been
roasted. Remove skins and fry same as Salted Almonds I or II.

Salted Pecans

Shelled pecans may be bought by the pound, which is much the
best way when used for salting, as it is difficult to remove the nut
meat without breaking. Fry same as salted Almonds I or II. Care
must be taken that they do not remain in fat too long; having a
dark skin, color does not determine when they are sufficiently
cooked.

Parisian Sweets
1 lb. figs
1 lb. English walnut meat
1 lb. dates
Confectioner's sugar

Pick over and remove stems from figs and stones from dates. Mix
fruit with walnut meat, and force through a meat-chopper. Work,
using the hands, on a board dredged with confectioners' sugar,
until well blended. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, using
confectioners' sugar for dredging board and pin. Shape with a
small round cutter, first dipped in sugar, or cut with a sharp knife
in three-fourth inch squares. Roll each piece in confectioners'
sugar, and shake to remove superfluous sugar. Pack in layers in a
tin box, putting paper between each layer. These confections may
be used at dinner in place of bonbons or ginger chips. A
combination of nut meat (walnut, almond, and filbert) may be used
in equal proportions.

Sugared Popped Corn

2 quarts popped corn
2 cups brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup water

Put butter in saucepan, and when melted add sugar and water.
Bring to boiling-point, and let boil sixteen minutes. Pour over
corn, and stir until every kernel is well coated with sugar.

Corn Balls

5 quarts popped corn
1/2 cup white corn syrup
2 cups sugar
1/3 teaspoon, each, salt and vinegar
11/2 cups water
1 tablespoon vanilla

Boil sugar, water and corn syrup without stirring until
thermometer registers 260 degrees F.; then add remaining
ingredients and let boil to 264 degrees F. Have corn in a large pan,
and pour on gradually the syrup, using a spoon all of the time to
turn corn that it may be evenly coated. Make into balls, and let
stand in a cold place until brittle.

Molasses Candy

2 cups Porto Rico molasses
3 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vinegar

An iron kettle with a rounding bottom (Scotch kettle) or copper
kettle is best for candy making. If one has no copper kettle, a
granite kettle is best for sugar candies.

Put butter in kettle, place over fire, and when melted, add molasses
and sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. During the first of the
boiling stirring is unnecessary, but when nearly cooked, it should
be constantly stirred. Boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture
will become brittle. Add vinegar just before taking from fire. Pour
into a well buttered pan. When cool enough to handle, pull until
porous and light-colored, allowing candy to come in contact with
tips of fingers and thumbs, not to be squeezed in the hand. Cut in
small pieces, using large shears or a sharp knife, and then arrange
on slightly buttered plates to cool.

Velvet Molasses Candy

1 cup molasses
3 tablespoons vinegar
3 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup melted butter
1/4 teaspoon soda

Put first four ingredients in kettle placed over front of range. As
soon as boiling-point is reached, add cream of tartar. Boil until,
when tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Stir
constantly during last part of cooking When nearly done, add
butter and soda. Pour into a buttered pan and pull same as
Molasses Candy. While pulling, add one teaspoon vanilla, one-half
teaspoon lemon extract, few drops oil of peppermint, or few drops
oil of wintergreen.

Buttercups

2 cups molasses
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup sugar
1/3 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup boiling water
Fondant flavored with vanilla

Boil ingredients (except fondant) until, when tried in cold water, a
firm ball may be formed in the fingers, not stirring until the last
few minutes of cooking. Pour on a buttered platter, and when cool
enough to handle, pull until light colored. Shape on a floured
board, having strip wide enough to enclose a roll of fondant one
inch in diameter. Place fondant on candy, bring edges of candy
together, and press firmly over fondant. With both hands pull
candy into a long strip. Cut in small pieces; each piece will consist
of fondant encircled with molasses candy. Care must be taken that
candy is not cooked too long, as it should be soft rather than
brittle.

Vinegar Candy

2 cups sugar
1/2 cup vinegar
2 tablespoons butter

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add sugar and vinegar. Stir
until sugar is dissolved, afterwards occasionally. Boil until, when
tried in cold water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a buttered
platter to cool. Pull, and cut same as Molasses Candy.

Ice Cream Candy

3 cups sugar
1/2 cup boiling water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 tablespoon vinegar

Boil ingredients together without stirring, until, when tried in cold
water, mixture will become brittle. Turn on a well buttered platter
to cool. As edges cool, fold towards centre. As soon as it can be
handled, pull until white and glossy. While pulling, flavor as
desired, using vanilla, orange extract, coffee extract, oil of
sassafras, or melted chocolate. Cut in sticks or small pieces.

Butter Scotch

1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vinegar
1/4 cup molasses
2 tablespoons boiling water
1/2 cup butter

Boil ingredients together until, when tried in cold water, mixture
will become brittle. Turn into a well buttered pan; when slightly
cool, mark with a sharp-pointed knife in squares. This candy is
much improved by cooking a small piece of vanilla bean with
other ingredients.

Butter Taffy

2 cups light brown sugar
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup molasses
7/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vinegar
1/4 cup butter
2 teaspoons vanilla

Boil first five ingredients until, when tried in cold water mixture
will become brittle. When nearly done, add butter, and just before
turning into pan, vanilla. Cool, and mark in squares.

Horehound Candy

3/4 square inch pressed horehound
2 cups boiling water
3 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Pour boiling water over horehound which has been separated in
pieces; let stand one minute, then strain through double
cheese-cloth. Put into a granite kettle with remaining ingredients,
and boil until, when tried in cold water, mixture will become
brittle. Turn into a buttered pan, cool slightly, then mark in small
squares. Small square packages of horehound may be bought for
five cents.

Chocolate Caramels

21/2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup milk
2 cups molasses
3 squares unsweetened chocolate
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into kettle; when melted, add molasses, sugar, and milk.
Stir until sugar is dissolved, and when boiling-point is reached,
add chocolate, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted. Boil
until, when tried in cold water, a firm ball may be formed in the
fingers. Add vanilla just after taking from fire. Turn into a buttered
pan, cool, and mark in small squares.

Nut Chocolate Caramels

To Chocolate Caramels add the meat from one pound English
walnuts broken in pieces, or one-half pound almonds blanched and
chopped.

Rich Chocolate Caramels

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup molasses
1/2 cup milk
4 squares chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup walnut meats, broken in pieces
2 teaspoons vanilla

Put butter in saucepan and when melted add milk, sugar and
molasses. When boiling-point is reached add chocolate, and cook
until brittle when tried in cold water, stirring occasionally to
prevent mixture from adhering to pan. Remove from fire, beat
three minutes, add nut meats and vanilla, and turn into a buttered
pan. When cold cut in squares and wrap in paraffine paper.

Peanut Nougat

1 lb. sugar
1 quart peanuts

Shell, remove skins, and finely chop peanuts. Sprinkle with
one-fourth teaspoon salt. Put sugar in a perfectly smooth granite
saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until melted to a
syrup, taking care to keep sugar from sides of pan. Add nut meat,
pour at once into a warm buttered tin, and mark in small squares.
If sugar is not removed from range as soon as melted, it will
quickly caramelize.

Nut Bar

Cover the bottom of a buttered shallow pan with one and one-third
cups nut meat (castaneas, English walnuts, or almonds) cut in
quarters. Pour over one pound sugar, melted as for Peanut Nougat.
Mark in bars.

French Nougat

1/2 lb. confectioners' sugar
1/4 lb. almonds, blanched and finely chopped
Confectioners' chocolate

Put sugar in a saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until
melted; add almonds, and pour on an oiled marble. Fold mixture as
it spreads with a broad-bladed knife; keeping it constantly in
motion. Divide in four parts, and so soon as cool enough to handle
shape in long rolls about one-third inch in diameter, keeping rolls
in motion until almost cold. When cold, snap in pieces one and
one-half inches long. This is done by holding roll at point to be
snapped over the sharp edge of a broad-bladed knife and snapping.
Melt confectioners' chocolate over hot water, beat with a fork until
light and smooth, and when slightly cooled dip pieces in chocolate
and with a two-tined fork or bonbon dipper remove from chocolate
to oiled paper, drawing dipper through top of each the entire
length, thus leaving a ridge. Chocolate best adapted for dipping
bonbons and confections must be bought where confectioners'
supplies are kept.

Nougatine Drops

Drop French Nougat mixture from the tip of a spoon on an oiled
marble very soon after taking from fire. These drops have a rough
surface. When cold, dip in melted confectioners' chocolate.

Wintergreen Wafers

1 oz. gum tragacanth
Confectioners' sugar
1 cup cold water
Oil of wintergreen

Soak gum tragacanth in water twenty-four hours and rub through a
fine wire sieve; add enough confectioners' sugar to knead. Flavor
with a few drops of oil of wintergreen. If liked pink, color with
fruit red. Roll until very thin on a board or marble dredged with
sugar. Shape with a small round cutter or cut in three-fourths inch
squares. Spread wafers, cover, and let stand until dry and brittle.
This mixture may be flavored with oil of lemon, clove, sassafras,
etc., and colored as desired.

Cocoanut Cream Candy

11/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons butter
1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup shredded cocoanut
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk,
and stir until sugar is dissolved. Heat to boiling-point, and boil
twelve minutes; remove from fire, add cocoanut and vanilla, and
beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge
of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and
mark in squares. One-half cup nut meat, broken in pieces, may be
used in place of cocoanut.

Chocolate Cream Candy

2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon butter
2/3 cup milk
2 squares unsweetened chocolate
1 teaspoon vanilla

Put butter into granite saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk.
Heat to boiling-point; then add chocolate, and stir constantly until
chocolate is melted. Boil thirteen minutes, remove from fire, add
vanilla, and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly
around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool
slightly, and mark in squares. Omit vanilla, if desired, and add,
while cooking, one-fourth teaspoon cinnamon.

Maple Sugar Candy

1 lb. soft maple sugar
1/4 cup boiling water
3/4 cup thin cream
2/3 cup English walnut or pecan meat, cut in pieces

Break sugar in pieces; put into a saucepan with cream and water.
Bring to boiling-point, and boil until a soft ball is formed when
tried in cold water. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nut
meat, and pour into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in
squares.

Sultana Caramels

2 cups sugar
2 squares chocolate
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup molasses
1/2 cup English walnut or hickory nut meat, cut in pieces
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons Sultana raisins

Put butter into a saucepan; when melted, add sugar, milk, and
molasses. Heat to boiling-point, and boil seven minutes. Add
chocolate, and stir until chocolate is melted; then boil seven
minutes longer. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nuts,
raisins, and vanilla, and pour at once into a buttered tin. Cool
slightly, and mark in squares. The nut meats and raisins may be
omitted.

Pralines

17/8 cups powdered sugar
2 cups hickory nut or pecanmeat, cut in pieces
1 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup cream

Boil first three ingredients until, when tried in cold water, a soft
ball may be formed. Remove from fire, and beat until of a creamy
consistency; add nuts, and drop from tip of spoon in small piles on
buttered paper, or mixture may be poured into a buttered tin and
cut in squares, using a sharp knife.

Creamed Walnuts

White 1 egg
3/4 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 tablespoon cold water
1 lb. confectioners' sugar
English walnuts

Put egg, water, and vanilla in a bowl, and beat until well blended.
Add sugar gradually until stiff enough to knead. Shape in balls,
flatten, and place halves of walnuts opposite each other on each
piece. Sometimes all the sugar will not be required.

Peppermints

11/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup boiling water
6 drops oil peppermint

Put sugar and water into a granite saucepan and stir until sugar is
dissolved. Boil ten minutes; remove from fire, add peppermint,
and beat until of right consistency. Drop from tip of spoon on
slightly buttered paper.

BOILED SUGAR FOR CONFECTIONS

Eleven tests are considered for boiling sugar: 

Small thread, 215 degrees F
The feather, 232 degrees
Large thread, 217 degrees
Soft ball, 238 degrees
Pearl, 220 degrees
Hard ball, 248 degrees
Large pearl, 222 degrees
Small crack, 290 degrees
The blow, 230 degrees
Crack, 310 degrees
Caramel, 350 degrees

Fondant, the basis of all French candy, is made of sugar and water
boiled together (with a small quantity of cream of tartar to prevent
sugar from granulating) to soft ball, 238 degrees F. The
professional confectioner is able to decide when syrup has boiled
to the right temperature by sound while boiling, and by testing in
cold water; these tests at first seem somewhat difficult to the
amateur, but only a little experience is necessary to make fondant
successfully. A sugar thermometer is often employed, and proves
valuable, as by its use one need not exercise his judgment.

White Fondant

21/2 lbs. sugar
1/2 cups hot water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients into a smooth granite stewpan. Stir, place on range,
and heat gradually to boiling point. Boil without stirring until,
when tried in cold water, a soft ball may be formed that will just
keep in shape, which is 238 degrees F. After a few minutes'
boiling, sugar will adhere to sides of kettle; this should be washed
off with the hand first dipped in cold water. Have a pan of cold
water near at hand, dip hand in cold water, then quickly wash off a
small part of the sugar with tips of fingers, and repeat until all
sugar adhering to side of saucepan is removed. If this is quickly
done, there is no danger of burning the fingers. Pour slowly on a
slightly oiled marble slab. Let stand a few minutes to cool, but not
long enough to become hard around the edge. Scrape fondant with
chopping knife to one end of marble, and work with a wooden
spatula until white and creamy. It will quickly change from this
consistency, and begin to lump, when it should be kneaded with
the hands until perfectly smooth.

Put into a bowl, cover with oiled paper to exclude air, that a crust
may not form on top, and let stand twenty-four hours. A large oiled
platter and wooden spoon may be used in place of marble slab and
spatula. Always make fondant on a clear day, as a damp, heavy
atmosphere has an unfavorable effect on the boiling of sugar.

Coffee Fondant

21/2 lbs. sugar
1/4 cup ground coffee
11/2 cups cold water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Put water and coffee in saucepan, and heat to boiling-point. Strain
through double cheese-cloth; then add sugar and cream of tartar.
Boil, and work same as White Fondant.

Maple Fondant

11/4 lbs. maple sugar
1 cup hot water
11/4 lbs. sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Break maple sugar in pieces and add to remaining ingredients.
Boil, and work same as White Fondant.

Bonbons

The centres of bonbons are made of fondant shaped in small balls.
If White Fondant is used, flavor as desired, vanilla being usually
preferred. For cocoanut centres, work as much shredded cocoanut
as possible into a small quantity of fondant; for nut centres,
surround pieces of nut meat with fondant, using just enough to
cover. French candied cherries are often used in this way. Allow
balls to stand over night, and dip the following day.

To Dip Bonbons. Put fondant in saucepan, and melt over hot
water; color and flavor as desired. In coloring fondant, dip a small
wooden skewer in coloring paste, take up a small quantity, and dip
skewer in fondant. If car is not taken, the color is apt to be too
intense. During dipping, keep fondant over hot water that it may be
kept of right consistency. For dipping, use a two-tined fork or
confectioners' bonbon dipper. Drop centres in fondant one at a
time, stir until covered, remove from fondant, put on oiled paper,
and bring end of dipper over the top of bonbon, thus leaving a
tail-piece which shows that bonbons have been hand dipped. Stir
fondant between dippings to prevent a crust from forming.

Cream Mints
Melt fondant over hot water, flavor with a few drops of oil of
peppermint, wintergreen, clove, cinnamon, or orange, and color if
desired. Drop from tip of spoon on oiled paper. Confectioners use
rubber moulds for shaping cream mints; but these are expensive
for home use, unless one is to make mints in large quantities.

Rose Cream Mints

11/2 cups sugar
White 1 egg
2 tablespoons white corn syrup
4 drops oil wintergreen
1/4 cup water
Pink coloring

Put sugar, corn syrup and water into a smooth granite saucepan,
heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil without stirring until syrup
will spin a long thread (238 degrees F.). Pour slowly on to the
beaten white of egg, and beat until mixture will hold its shape.
Add flavoring and coloring. Force on to an oiled paper, using a
pastry bag and rose tube. The work must be done quickly.

Cream Nut Bars

Melt fondant and flavor, stir in any kind of nut meat, cut in pieces.
Turn in an oiled pan, cool, and cut in bars with a sharp knife.
Maple Fondant is delicious with nuts.

Dipped Walnuts

Melt fondant and flavor. Dip halves of walnuts as bonbon centres
are dipped. Halves of pecan or whole blanched almonds may be
similarly dipped.

Tutti-Frutti Candy

Fill an oiled border-mould with three layers of melted fondant.
Have bottom layer maple, well mixed with English walnut meat;
the second layer colored pink, flavored with rose, and mixed with
candied cherries cut in quarters and figs finely chopped, the third
layer white, flavored with vanilla, mixed with nuts, candied
cherries cut in quarters, and candied pineapple cut in small pieces.
Cover mould with oiled paper, and let stand over night. Remove
from mould, and place on a plate covered with a lace paper
napkin. Fill centre with Bonbons and Glace Nuts.

Glace Nuts

2 cups sugar
1 cup boiling water
2/3 teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan, stir, place on range, and heat
to boiling point. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to
discolor, which is 310 degrees F. Wash off sugar which adheres to
sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from
fire, and place in larger pan of cold water to instantly stop boiling.
Remove from cold water and place in a saucepan of hot water
during dipping. Take nuts separately on a long pin, dip in syrup to
cover, remove from syrup, and place on oiled paper.

Glac Fruits
For Glac Fruits, grapes, strawberries, sections of mandarins and
oranges, and candied cherries are most commonly used. Take
grapes separately from clusters, leaving a short stem on each
grape. Dip in syrup made as for Glac Nuts, holding by stem with
pincers. Remove to oiled paper. Glac fruits keep but a day, and
should only be attempted in cold and clear weather.

Candied Orange Peel

Remove peel from four thin-skinned oranges in quarters. Cover
with cold water, bring to boiling-point, and cook slowly until soft.
Drain, remove white portion, using a spoon, and cut yellow portion
in thin strips, using scissors. Boil one-half cup water and one cup
sugar until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon.
Cook strips in syrup five minutes, drain, and coat with fine
granulated sugar.

Spun Sugar

2 lbs. sugar
2 cups boiling water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan. Boil without stirring until
syrup begins to discolor, which is 300 degrees F. Wash off sugar
which adheres to sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove
saucepan from fire, and place in a larger pan of cold water to
instantly stop boiling. Remove from cold water, and place in
saucepan of hot water. Place two broomstick-handles over backs
of chairs, and spread paper on the floor under them. When syrup is
slightly cooled, put dipper in syrup, remove from syrup, and shake
quickly back and forth over broomhandles. Carefully take off spun
sugar as soon as formed, and shape in nests, or pile lightly on a
cold dish. Syrup may be colored if desired. Spun Sugar is served
around bricks or moulds of frozen creams and ices.

Dippers for spinning sugar are made of coarse wires; about twenty
wires, ten inches long, are put in a bundle, and fastened with wire
coiled round and round to form a handle.

Chapter XXXIV. SANDWICHES AND CANAP S.

IN preparing bread for sandwiches, cut slices as thinly as possible,
and remove crusts. If butter is used, cream the butter, and spread
bread before cutting from loaf. Spread half the slices with mixture
to be used for filling, cover with remaining pieces, and cut in
squares, oblongs, or triangles. If sandwiches are shaped with round
or fancy cutters, bread should be shaped before spreading, that
there may be no waste of butter. Sandwiches which are prepared
several hours before serving-time may be kept fresh and moist by
wrapping in a napkin wrung as dry as possible out of hot water,
and keeping in a cool place. Paraffine paper is often used for the
same purpose. Bread for sandwiches cuts better when a day old.
Serve sandwiches piled on a plate covered with a doiley.

Rolled Bread

Cut fresh bread, while still warm, in as thin slices as possible,
using a very sharp knife. Spread evenly with butter which has been
creamed. Roll slices separately, and tie each with baby ribbon.

Bread and Butter Folds

Remove end slice from bread. Spread end of loaf sparingly and
evenly with butter which has been creamed. Cut off as thin a slice
as possible. Repeat until the number of slices required are
prepared. Remove crusts, put together in pairs, and cut in squares,
oblongs, or triangles. Use white, entire wheat, Graham, or brown
bread. Three layer sandwiches are attractive when made of entire
wheat bread between white slices.

Lettuce Sandwiches

Put fresh, crisp lettuce leaves, washed and thoroughly dried,
between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and
Butter Folds, having a teaspoon of Mayonnaise on each leaf.

Egg Sandwiches

Chop finely the whites of "hard-boiled" eggs; force the yolks
through a strainer or potato ricer. Mix yolks and whites, season
with salt and pepper, and moisten with Mayonnaise or Cream
Salad Dressing. Spread mixture between thin slices of buttered
bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

Sardine Sandwiches

Remove skin and bones from sardines, and mash to a paste. Add to
an equal quantity of yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs rubbed through a
sieve. Season with salt, cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice;
moisten with olive oil or melted butter. Spread mixture between
thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter
Folds.

Sliced Ham Sandwiches

Slice cold boiled ham as thinly as possible. Put between thin slices
of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.

Chopped Ham Sandwiches

Finely chop cold boiled ham, and moisten with Sauce Tartare.
Spread between thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread
and Butter Folds.

Anchovy Sandwiches

Rub the yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs to a paste. Moisten with soft
butter and season with Anchovy sauce. Spread mixture between
thin slices of buttered bread prepared as for Bread and Butter
Folds.

Chicken Sandwiches

Chop cold boiled chicken, and moisten with Mayonnaise or Cream
Salad Dressing; or season with salt and pepper, and moisten with
rich chicken stock. Prepare as other sandwiches.

Lobster Sandwiches

Remove lobster meat from shell, and chop. Season with salt,
cayenne, made mustard, and lemon juice; or moisten with any
salad dressing. Spread mixture on a crisp lettuce leaf, and prepare
as other sandwiches.

Lobster Sandwiches a la Boulevard

Mix an equal quantity of finely chopped lobster meat and the yolks
of "hard boiled" eggs forced through a sieve. Moisten with melted
butter, and season with German mustard, beef extract diluted with
a very small quantity of boiling water, and salt. Spread mixture
between thin slices of buttered bread, remove crusts, and cut into
fancy shapes. A small quantity of lobster meat is most successfully
utilized in this way.

Oyster Sandwiches

Arrange fried oysters on crisp lettuce leaves, allowing two oysters
for each leaf, and one leaf for each sandwich. Prepare as other
sandwiches.

Nut and Cheese Sandwiches

Mix equal parts of grated Gruyre cheese and chopped English
walnut meat; then season with salt and cayenne. Prepare as other
sandwiches.

Cheese and Anchovy Sandwiches

Cream two tablespoons butter, and add one-fourth cup grated
Young America Cheese and one teaspoon vinegar. Season with
salt, paprika, mustard, and Anchovy sauce. Spread mixture
between thin slices of bread.

Windsor Sandwiches

Cream one-third cup butter, and add one-half cup each of finely
chopped cold boiled ham and cold boiled chicken. Season with
salt and paprika. Spread mixture between thin slices of bread.

Club Sandwiches

Arrange on slices of bread thin slices of cooked bacon; cover with
slices of cold roast chicken, and cover chicken with Mayonnaise
Dressing. Cover with slices of bread.

Ginger Sandwiches

Cut preserved Canton ginger in very thin slices. Prepare as other
sandwiches.

Fruit Sandwiches

Remove stems and finely chop figs; add a small quantity of water,
cook in double boiler until a paste is formed, then add a few drops
of lemon juice. Cool mixture, and spread on thin slices of buttered
bread; sprinkle with finely chopped peanuts and cover with pieces
of buttered bread.

Brown Bread Sandwiches
Brown Bread to be used for sandwiches is best steamed in
one-pound baking-powder boxes. Spread and cut bread as for other
sandwiches. Put between layers finely chopped peanuts seasoned
with salt; or grated cheese mixed with chopped English walnut
meat seasoned with salt.

Noisette Sandwiches

Use one-half recipe for Milk and Water Bread made with entire
wheat flour , and add two tablespoons molasses and one cup
English walnut meats or pecan nut broken in small pieces. Let
stand twenty-four hours, slice as thinly as possible, spread
sparingly and evenly with butter, and put between slices orange
marmalade. Remove crusts, cut in fancy shapes, and garnish with
nut meats.

Colonial Sandwiches

Make one-half the recipe for Milk and Water Bread , using
entire-wheat flour, and adding one and one-half tablespoons
molasses, and after the first rising adding, while kneading,
one-half cup, each, candied orange peel finely cut and pecan nut
meats broken in pieces. Put into buttered one-pound
baking-powder tins until one-third full; let rise and bake. Cool, and
make into sandwiches.

German Sandwiches

Use Zweiback . Spread slices, thinly cut, with jelly or marmalade,
and sprinkle with finely cut English walnut meats. Cover with
thinly cut slices and remove crusts.

Russian Sandwiches

Spread zephyrettes with thin slices of Neufchtel cheese, cover
with finely chopped olives moistened with Mayonnaise Dressing.
Place a zephyrette over each and press together.

Jelly Sandwiches

Spread zephyrettes with quince jelly and sprinkle with chopped
English walnut meat. Place a zephyrette over each and press
together.

Cheese Wafers
Sprinkle zephyrettes with grated cheese mixed with a few grains of
cayenne. Put on a tin sheet and bake until the cheese melts.

Canapes

Canapes are made by cutting bread in slices one-fourth inch thick,
and cutting slices in strips four inches long by one and one-half
inches wide, or in circular pieces. Then bread is toasted, fried in
deep fat, or buttered and browned in the oven, and covered with a
seasoned mixture of eggs, cheese, fish, or meat, separately or in
combination. Canapes are served hot or cold, and used in place of
oysters at a dinner or luncheon. At a gentleman's dinner they are
served with a glass of Sherry before entering the dining-room.

Cheese Canapes I

Toast circular pieces of bread, sprinkle with a thick layer of grated
cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne. Place on a tin sheet and
bake until cheese is melted. Serve at once.

Cheese Canapes II

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with French Mustard, then
proceed as for Cheese Canapes I.

Sardine Canapes

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with sardines (from which
bones have been removed) rubbed to a paste, with a small quantity
of creamed butter and seasoned with Worcestershire Sauce and a
few grains cayenne. Place in the centre of each a stuffed olive,
made by removing stone and filling cavity with sardine mixture.
Around each arrange a border of the finely chopped whites of
"hard-boiled" eggs.

Lobster Canapes

Finely chop lobster meat and add an equal quantity of yolks of
"hard-boiled" eggs forced through a sieve. Moisten with melted
butter and heavy cream, using equal parts, and season highly with
salt, cayenne, German mustard and beef extract. Spread on sauted
circular slices of bread and garnish with rings cut from whites of
"hard-boiled" eggs, yolks of "hard-boiled" eggs, and lobster coral
forced through a sieve.

Canapes Martha

Beat yolk one egg, add one and one-half tablespoons cream,
one-fourth teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon paprika, one-fourth
teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, and a few grains cayenne; then
add one-fourth pound cheese cut in small pieces, and cook until
smooth, stirring constantly. Spread on sauted slices of bread, cut in
fancy shapes, and cover with finely chopped lobster meat held
together with a thick sauce made of Chicken Stock or cream,
garnish with rings of whites of "hard-boiled" eggs, yolks of
"hard-boiled" eggs, and lobster coral forced through a strainer, and
rings of olives.

Anchovy Canapes

Spread circular pieces of toasted bread with Anchovy Butter. Chop
separately yolks and whites of "hard-boiled" eggs. Cover canapes
by quarters with egg, alternating yolks and whites. Divide yolks
from whites with anchovies split in two lengthwise, and pipe
around a border of Anchovy Butter, using a pastry bag and tube.

Cheese and Olive Canapes

Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Shape with a small
oblong cutter with rounded corners. Cream butter, add an equal
quantity of soft cheese, and work until smooth; then season with
salt. Spread on bread and garnish with a one-fourth inch border of
finely chopped olives and a piece of red or green pepper cut in
fancy shape, in centre of each. To be served in place of sandwiches
on a plate covered with a doiley.

Canapes Lorenzo

Toast slices of bread cut in shape of horseshoes. Cream two
tablespoons butter, and add one teaspoon white of egg. Spread
slices of bread, rounding with Crab Mixture, cover with creamed
butter, sprinkle with cheese, and brown in the oven. Serve on a
napkin, ends towards centre of dish, and garnish with parsley.

Crab Mixture. Finely chop crab meat, season with salt, cayenne,
and a few drops of lemon juice, then moisten with Thick White
Sauce. Lobster meat may be used in place of crab meat.

Algonquin Canapes

Fry one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, three tablespoons
butter, and one-third cup chopped mushroom caps five minutes.
Add two tablespoons flour, and two-thirds cup cream. Cook until
mixture thickens, then add one cup finnan haddie (soaked in
lukewarm water to cover forty-five minutes, then separated into
flakes), two tablespoons grated cheese, and yolks two eggs slightly
beaten. Season with salt and cayenne and pile on circular pieces of
toasted bread. Sprinkle with grated cheese, then with buttered, soft
bread crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned. Serve at once.

Chapter XXXV. RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH.

THE chafing-dish, which, within the last few years, has gained so
much favor, is by no means a utensil of modern invention. It finds
its place on the breakfast table, when the eggs may be cooked to
suit the most fastidious; on the luncheon table, when a dainty hot
dish may be prepared to serve in place of the so-oft-seen cold
meat; but it is made of greatest use for the cooking of late suppers,
and always seems to accompany hospitality and good cheer.

It is appreciated and enjoyed by the housekeeper who does her
own work, or has but one maid, as well as by the society girl who,
by its use, first gains a taste for the art of cooking. The simple tin
chafing-dishes may be bought for as small a sum as ninety cents,
while the elaborate silver ones command as high a price as one
hundred dollars. Very attractive dishes are made of granite ware,
nickel, or copper. The latest patterns have the lamp with a screw
adjustment to regulate the flame, and a metal tray on which to set
dish, that it may be moved if necessary while hot, without danger
of burnt fingers, and that it may not injure the polished table.

A chafing-dish has two pans, the under one for holding hot water,
the upper one with long handle for holding food to be cooked. A
blazer differs from a chafing-dish, inasmuch as it has no hot-water
pan.

Wood alcohol, which is much lower in price than high-proof
spirits, is generally used in chafing-dishes.

List of dishes previously given that may be prepared on the
Chafing-Dish: 

German Toast
Buttered Lobster

Dropped Eggs
Creamed Lobster

Eggs a la Finnoise
Broiled Meat Cakes

Eggs a la Suisse
Salmi of Lamb

Scrambled Eggs
Creamed Sweetbreads

Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce
Sauted Sweetbreads

Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce

Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast
Chickens' Livers with Curry

Buttered Eggs

Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes
Sauted Chickens' Livers

Creamed Chicken

Curried Eggs
Chicken and Oysters a la Metropole

French Omelet

Spanish Omelet

Stewed Mushrooms
Creamed Fish

Sauted Mushrooms
Halibut a la Rarebit

Mushrooms a la Sabine
Creamed Oysters

Souffle au Rhum

Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads

4 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 sweetbread, parboiled and cut in dice
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter

Beat eggs slightly, using a silver folk, add salt, pepper, milk, and
sweetbread. Put butter in hot chafing-dish; when melted, pour in
the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, constantly stirring
and scraping from bottom of the pan.

Scrambled Eggs with Calf's Brains

Follow recipe for Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads, using calf's
brains in place of sweetbreads.

To Prepare Calf's Brains. Soak one hour in cold water to cover.
Remove membrane, and parboil twenty minutes in boiling, salted,
acidulated water. Drain, put in cold water; as soon as cold, drain
again, and separate in small pieces.

Cheese Omelet

2 eggs
1/8 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter
Few grains cayenne
1 tablespoon grated cheese

Beat eggs slightly, add one-half teaspoon melted butter, salt,
cayenne, and cheese. Melt remaining butter, add mixture, and cook
until firm, without stirring. Roll, and sprinkle with grated cheese.
Serve with Graham bread sandwiches.

Eggs au Beurre Noir

Butter
Pepper
Salt
4 eggs
1 teaspoon vinegar

Put one tablespoon butter in a hot chafing-dish; when melted, slip
in carefully four eggs, one at a time. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and cook until whites are firm. Remove to a hot platter, care being
taken not to break yolks. In same dish brown two tablespoons
butter, add vinegar, and pour over eggs.

Eggs a la Caracas

2 ozs. smoked dried beef
Few grains cinnamon
1 cup tomatoes
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup grated cheese
2 tablespoons butter

Few drops onion juice
3 eggs

Pick over beef and chop finely, add tomatoes, cheese, onion juice,
cinnamon, and cayenne. Melt butter, add mixture, and when
heated, add eggs well beaten. Cook until eggs are of creamy
consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of pan.

Union Grill

Clean one pint of oysters and drain off all the liquor possible. Put
oysters in chafing-dish, and as liquor flows from oysters, remove
with a spoon, and so continue until oysters are plump. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and add two tablespoons butter. Serve on
zephyrettes.

Oysters a la D'Uxelles

1 pint oysters
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon Sherry wine

Clean oysters, heat to boiling-point, and drain. Reserve liquor and
strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth; there should be
three-fourths cup. Cook butter and mushrooms five minutes, add
flour, and oyster liquor gradually; then cook three minutes. Add
seasonings, oysters, egg, and Sherry wine. Serve on zephyrettes or
pieces of toasted bread.

Oysters a la Thorndike

1 pint oysters
Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
Slight grating nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup thin cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Clean and drain oysters. Melt butter, add oysters, and cook until
oysters are plump. Then add seasonings, cream, and egg yolks
slightly beaten. Cook until sauce is slightly thickened, stirring
constantly. Serve on zephyrettes or pieces of toasted bread.

Jack's Oyster Ragout

Parboil fresh honeycomb tripe, and cut in three-fourths inch
pieces; there should be one cup. Add an equal quantity of small
boiled onions, and twice the quantity of raw oysters which have
been previously cleaned. Melt three tablespoons butter, add four
tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually while stirring constantly
one and one-half cups thin cream. Add tripe, onion, and oysters.
When thoroughly heated add yolks two eggs slightly beaten, and
season highly with salt, pepper, and paprika. Serve on pieces
toasted bread.

Lobster a la Delmonico

2 lb. lobster
Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup butter
Slight grating nutmeg
3/4 tablespoons flour
1 cup thin cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in small cubes. Melt
butter, add flour, seasonings, and cream gradually. Add lobster,
and when heated, add egg yolks and wine.

Lobster a la Newburg

2 lb. lobster
Slight grating nutmeg
1/4 cup butter
1 tablespoon Sherry
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon brandy
Few grains cayenne
1/3 cup thin cream
Yolks 2 eggs

Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in slices. Melt butter, add
lobster, and cook three minutes. Add seasonings and wine, cook
one minute, then add cream and yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Stir
until thickened. Serve with toast or Puff Paste Points.

Clams a la Newburg

1 pint clams
3 tablespoons Sherry or Madeira wine
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup thin cream
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 3 eggs

Clean clams, remove soft parts, and finely chop hard parts. Melt
butter, add chopped clams, seasonings, and wine. Cook eight
minutes, add soft part on clams, and cream. Cook two minutes,
then add egg yolks slightly beaten, diluted with some of the hot
sauce.

Shrimps a la Newburg

1 pint shrimps
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cream
Few grains cayenne
Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine

Clean shrimps and cook three minutes in two tablespoons butter.
Add salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and cook one minute. Remove
shrimps, and put remaining butter in chafing-dish, add flour and
cream; when thickened, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, shrimps,
and wine. Serve with toast or Puff Paste Points.

Fish a la Provenoale

1/4 cup butter
Yolks 4 "hard-boiled" eggs
21/2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon Anchovy sauce
2 cups milk
2 cups cold boiled flaked fish

Make a sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Mash yolks of eggs and
mix with Anchovy sauce, add to sauce, then add fish. Serve as
soon as heated. Serve on pieces of toasted Graham bread.

Grilled Sardines

Drain twelve sardines and cook in a chafing-dish until heated,
turning frequently. Place on small oblong pieces of dry toast, and
serve with Matre d'Htel or Lemon Butter.

Sardines with Anchovy Sauce

Drain twelve sardines and cook in a chafing-dish until heated,
turning frequently. Remove from chafing-dish. Make one cup
Brown Sauce with one and one-half tablespoons sardine oil, two
tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season with Anchovy
sauce. Reheat sardines in sauce. Serve with Brown Bread
Sandwiches, having a slice of cucumber marinated with French
Dressing between slices of bread.

Creamed Sardines

Drain from oil one small box sardines, remove backbones from
fish, then mash. Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one-fourth cup
soft stale bread crumbs, and one cup cream. When thoroughly
heated add two "hard-boiled" eggs finely chopped, the sardines,
salt, pepper, and paprika to taste. Serve on pieces of toasted bread.
Welsh Rarebit I

1 tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon corn-starch
1/4 teaspoon mustard
1/2 cup thin cream
Few grains cayenne
1/2 lb. soft mild cheese cut in small pieces
Toast or wafer crackers

Melt butter, add corn-starch, and stir until well mixed, then add
cream gradually, while stirring constantly, and cook two minutes.
Add cheese, and stir until cheese is melted. Season, and serve on
wafer crackers or bread toasted on one side, rarebit being poured
over untoasted side. Much of the success of a rarebit depends upon
the quality of the cheese. A rarebit should be smooth and of a
creamy consistency, never stringy.

Welsh Rarebit II

1 tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon mustard
1/2 lb. soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces
Few grains cayenne
1/3 to 1/2 cup ale or lager beer
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg

Put butter in chafing-dish, and when melted, add cheese and
seasonings; as cheese melts, add ale gradually, while stirring
constantly; then egg slightly beaten. Serve same as Welsh Rarebit I.

Oyster Rarebit

1 cup oysters
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
Few grains cayenne
1/2 lb. soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces
2 eggs

Clean, parboil, and drain oysters, reserving liquor; then remove
and discard tough muscle. Melt butter, add cheese and seasonings;
as cheese melts, add gradually oyster liquor, and eggs slightly
beaten. As soon as mixture is smooth, add soft part of oysters.
Serve on unsweetened wafer crackers or bread toasted on one side,
rarebit being poured over untoasted side.

Tomato Rarebit

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups finely cut cheese
3/4 cup thin cream
2 eggs, slightly beaten
3/4 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
Salt
Mustard
Cayenne

Put butter in chafing-dish; when melted, add flour. Pour on,
gradually, cream, and as soon as mixture thickens add tomatoes
mixed with soda; then add cheese, eggs, and seasonings to taste.
Serve, as soon as cheese has melted, on Graham Toast.

English Monkey

1 cup stale bread crumbs
1/2 cup soft mild cheese, cut in small pieces
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk. Melt butter, add
cheese, and when cheese has melted, add soaked crumbs, egg
slightly beaten, and seasonings. Cook three minutes, and pour over
toasted crackers which have been spread sparingly with butter.

Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce

Cut cold boiled corned tongue in slices one-third inch thick.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, and saute in
butter. Serve with Tomato Sauce I.

Scotch Woodcock

4 "hard-boiled" eggs
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons flour
Few grains cayenne
Anchovy sauce

Make a thin white sauce of butter, flour, milk, and seasonings; add
eggs finely chopped, and season with Anchovy sauce. Serve same
as Welsh Rarebit I.

Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce

1/2 tablespoon butter
Few grains cayenne
1/3 cup currant jelly
1/4 cup Sherry wine
1 cup cold cooked ham, cut in small strips

Put butter and currant jelly into the chafing-dish. As soon as
melted, add cayenne, wine, and ham; simmer five minutes.

Venison Cutlets with Apples

Wipe, core, and cut four apples in one-fourth inch slices. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar, and add one-third cup Port wine; cover, and
let stand thirty minutes. Drain, and saute in butter. Cut a slice of
venison one-half inch thick in cutlets. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and cook three or four minutes in a hot chafing-dish, using
just enough butter to prevent sticking. Remove from dish; then
melt three tablespoons butter, add wine drained from apples, and
twelve candied cherries cut in halves. Reheat cutlets in sauce, and
serve with apples.

Mutton with Currant Jelly Sauce

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup Brown Stock
2 tablespoons flour
1/3 cup currant jelly
1/4 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Few grains pepper
6 slices cold cooked mutton
Brown the butter, add flour, seasonings, and stock, gradually; then
add jelly, and when melted, add mutton. When meat is heated, add
wine. If mutton gravy is at hand, use instead of making a Brown
Sauce.

Minced Mutton

2 cups chopped cooked mutton
Salt
Yolks 6 "hard-boiled" eggs
Cayenne
3/4 teaspoon mixed mustard
1 cup of cream
1/4 cup wine

Mash the yolks, and season with mustard, salt, and cayenne. Add
cream and mutton. When thoroughly heated add wine. Serve on
toast.

Devilled Bones

2 tablespoons butter
Drumsticks, second joints, and wings of a cooked chicken
1 tablespoon Chili Sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
Salt
Pepper
1 tablespoon Walnut Catsup
Flour
1 teaspoon made mustard
Cup hot stock
Few grains cayenne
Finely chopped parsley

Melt butter, and add Chili Sauce, Worcestershire Sauce, Walnut
Catsup, mustard, and cayenne. Cut four small gashes in each piece
of chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and
cook in the seasoned butter until well browned. Pour on stock,
simmer five minutes, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Devilled Almonds

2 ozs. blanched and shredded almonds
2 tablespoons chopped pickles
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
Butter
1 tablespoon Chutney
1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne

Fry almonds until well browned, using enough butter to prevent
almonds from burning. Mix remaining ingredients, pour over nuts,
and serve as soon as thoroughly heated. Serve with oysters.

Devilled Chestnuts

Shell one cup chestnuts, cut in thin slices, and fry until well
browned, using enough butter to prevent chestnuts from burning.
Season with Tabasco Sauce or few grains paprika.

Fruit Canapes

Make German Toast in circular pieces, cover with stewed prunes,
figs, or jam. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

Peach Canapes

Saute circular pieces of sponge cake in butter until delicately
browned. Drain canned peaches, sprinkle with powdered sugar,
few drops lemon juice, and slight grating nutmeg. Melt one
tablespoon butter, add peaches, and when heated, serve on cake.

Fig Cups

1/2 lb. washed figs
2 tablespoons sugar
Chopped salted almonds
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 cup wine

Stuff figs with almonds. Put sugar, lemon juice, and wine in
chafing-dish; when heated, add figs, cover, and cook until figs are
tender, turning and basting often. Serve with Lady Fingers.

Chapter XXXVI. FRUITS: FRESH AND COOKED.

FRUITS are usually at their best when served ripe and in season;
however, a few cannot be taken in their raw state, and still others
are rendered more easy of digestion by cooking. The methods
employed are stewing and baking. Fruit should be cooked in
earthen or granite ware utensils, and silver or wooden spoons
should be employed for stirring. It must be remembered that all
fruits contain one or more acids, and when exposed to air and
brought in contact with an iron or tin surface, a poisonous
compound may be formed.

How to Prepare Strawberries for Serving

1. Pick over strawberries, place in colander, pour over cold water,
drain thoroughly, hull, and turn into dish. Serve with powdered
sugar and cream.

2. Pick over selected strawberries, place in colander, pour over
cold water, and drain thoroughly. Press powdered sugar into
cordial glasses. Remove from glasses on centres of fruit plates.
Arrange twelve berries around each mound of sugar. Berries
served in this way should not be hulled.

How to Prepare Cantaloupes and Muskmelons for Serving

Canteloupes and muskmelons should be very ripe and thoroughly
chilled in ice box before being prepared for serving. Wipe melons,
if small, cut in halves lengthwise; if larger, cut in sections, and
remove seeds and stringy portion. If one-half is served as a portion,
put in cavity one tablespoon crushed ice. Serve with salt or
powdered sugar.

How to Prepare Grapes for Serving

Put bunches in colander and pour over cold water, drain, chill, and
arrange on serving dish. Imperfect grapes, as well as those
under-ripe or over-ripe, should be removed. Garnish with grape
leaves, if at hand.

Ways of Preparing Oranges for Serving

1. Wipe orange and cut in halves crosswise. Place onehalf on a
fruit plate, having an orange spoon or teaspoon on plate at right of
fruit.

2. Peel an orange and remove as much of the white portion as
possible. Remove pulp by sections, which may be accomplished by
using a sharp knife and cutting pulp from tough portion first on
one side of section, then on the other. Should there be any white
portion of skin remaining on pulp it should be cut off. Arrange
sections on glass dish or fruit plate. If the orange is a seeded one,
remove seeds.

3. Remove peel from an orange in such a way that there remains a
one-half inch band of peel equal distance from stem and blossom
end. Cut band, separate sections, and arrange around a mould of
sugar.

How to Prepare Grape Fruit for Serving

Wipe grape fruit and cut in halves crosswise. With a small,
sharp-pointed knife make a cut separating pulp from skin around
entire circumference; then make cuts separating pulp from tough
portion which divides fruit into sections. Remove tough portion in
one piece, which may be accomplished by one cutting with
scissors at stem or blossom end close to skin. Sprinkle fruit pulp
left in grape fruit skin generously with sugar. Let stand ten
minutes, and serve very cold. Place on fruit plate and garnish with
a candied cherry.

Grape Fruit with Sherry

Prepare grape fruit for serving, add to each portion one tablespoon
Sherry wine, and let stand one hour in ice box or cold place.

Grape Fruit with Apricot Brandy

Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one-half
tablespoon apricot brandy.

Grape Fruit with Sloe Gin

Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one-half
tablespoon sloe gin.

Fruit Cocktail

Remove pulp from grape fruit, and mix with shredded pineapple,
bananas cut in slices and slices cut in quarters, and strawberries
cut in halves, using half as much pineapple and banana as grape
fruit, and allowing four strawberries to each serve. There should be
two cups fruit. Pour over a dressing made of one-third cup Sherry
wine, three tablespoons apricot brandy, one-half cup sugar, and a
few grains salt. Chill thoroughly, serve in double cocktail glasses,
and garnish with candied cherries and leaves.
Baked Apples

Wipe and core sour apples. Put in a baking-dish, and fill cavities
with sugar and spice. Allow one-half cup sugar and one-fourth
teaspoon cinnamon or nutmeg to eight apples. If nutmeg is used, a
few drops lemon juice and few gratings from rind of lemon to each
apple is an improvement. Cover bottom of dish with boiling water,
and bake in a hot oven until soft, basting often with syrup in dish.
Serve hot or cold with cream. Many prefer to pare apples before
baking. When this is done, core before paring, that fruit may keep
in shape. In the fall, when apples are at their best, do not add
spices to apples, as their flavor cannot be improved; but towards
spring they become somewhat tasteless, and spice is an
improvement.

Baked Sweet Apples

Wipe and core eight sweet apples. Put in a baking-dish, and fill
cavities with sugar, allowing one-third cup, or sweeten with
molasses. Add two-thirds cup boiling water. Cover, and bake three
hours in a slow oven, adding more water if necessary.

Apple Sauce

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight sour apples. Make a syrup by
boiling seven minutes one cup sugar and one cup water with thin
shaving from rind of a lemon. Remove lemon, add enough apples
to cover bottom of saucepan, watch carefully during cooking, and
remove as soon as soft. Continue until all are cooked. Strain
remaining syrup over apples.

Spiced Apple Sauce

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight sour apples. Put in a saucepan,
sprinkle with one cup sugar, add eight cloves, and enough water to
prevent apples from burning. Cook to a mush, stirring
occasionally.

Apple Ginger

Wipe, quarter, core, pare, and chop sour apples; there should be
two and one-half pounds. Put in a stewpan and add one and
one-half pounds light brown sugar, juice and rind of one and
one-half lemons, one-half ounce ginger root, a few grains salt, and
enough water to prevent apples from burning. Cover, and cook
slowly four hours, adding water as necessary. Apple Ginger may
be kept for several weeks.

Apple Porcupine

Make a syrup by boiling eight minutes one and one half cups sugar
and one and one-half cups water. Wipe, core, and pare eight
apples. Put apples in syrup as soon as pared, that they may not
discolor. Cook until soft, occasionally skimming syrup during
cooking. Apples cook better covered with the syrup; therefore it is
better to use a deep saucepan and have two cookings. Drain apples
from syrup, cool, fill cavities with jelly, marmalade, or preserved
fruit, and stick apples with almonds blanched and split in halves
lengthwise. Serve with Cream Sauce I.

Baked Bananas I
Remove skins from six bananas and cut in halves lengthwise. Put
in a shallow granite pan or on an old platter. Mix two tablespoons
melted butter, one-third cup sugar, and two tablespoons lemon
juice. Baste bananas with one-half the mixture. Bake twenty
minutes in a slow oven, basting during baking with remaining
mixture.

Baked Bananas II

Arrange bananas in a shallow pan, cover, and bake until skins
become very dark in color. Remove from skins, and serve hot
sprinkled with sugar.

Sauted Bananas

Remove skins from bananas, cut in halves lengthwise, and again
cut in halves crosswise. Dredge with flour, and saute in clarified
butter. Drain, and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Baked Peaches

Peel, cut in halves, and remove stones from six peaches. Place in a
shallow granite pan. Fill each cavity with one teaspoon sugar,
one-half teaspoon butter, few drops lemon juice, and a slight
grating nutmeg. Cook twenty minutes, and serve on circular pieces
of buttered dry toast.

Baked Pears

Wipe, quarter, and core pears. Put in a deep puddingdish, sprinkle
with sugar or add a small quantity of molasses, then add water to
prevent pears from burning. Cover, and cook two or three hours in
a very slow oven. Small pears may be baked whole. Seckel pears
are delicious when baked.

Baked Quinces

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight quinces. Put in a baking dish,
sprinkle with three-fourths cup sugar, add one and one-half cups
water, cover, and cook until soft in a slow oven. Quinces require a
long time for cooking.

Cranberry Sauce

Pick over and wash three cups cranberries. Put in a stewpan, add
one and one-fourth cups sugar and one cup boiling water, and boil
ten minutes. Care must be taken that they do not boil over. Skim
and cool.

Cranberry Jelly

Pick over and wash four cups cranberries. Put in a stewpan with
two cups boiling water, and boil twenty minutes. Rub through a
sieve, add two cups sugar, and cook five minutes. Turn into a
mould or glasses.

Stewed Prunes

Wash and pick over prunes. Put in a saucepan, cover with cold
water, and soak two hours; then cook until soft in same water.
When nearly cooked, add sugar or molasses to sweeten. Many
prefer the addition of a small quantity of lemon juice.

Rhubarb Sauce

Peel and cut rhubarb in one-inch pieces. Put in a saucepan,
sprinkle generously with sugar, and add enough water to prevent
rhubarb from burning. Rhubarb contains such a large percentage of
water that but little additional water is needed. Cook until soft. If
rhubarb is covered with boiling water, allowed to stand five
minutes, then drained and cooked, less sugar will be required.
Rhubarb is sometimes baked in an earthen pudding-dish. If baked
slowly for a long time it has a rich red color.

Chapter XXXVII. JELLIES, JAMS, AND MARMALADES.

JELLIES are made of cooked fruit juice and sugar, in nearly all
cases the proportions being equal. Where failures occur, they may
usually be traced to the use of too ripe fruit.

To Prepare Glasses for Jelly. Wash glasses and put in a kettle of
cold water; place on range, and heat water gradually to
boiling-point. Remove glasses, and drain. Place glasses while
filling on a cloth wrung out of hot water.

To Cover Jelly Glasses. Cut letter paper in circular pieces just to
fit in top of glasses. Dip in brandy, and cover jelly. Put on tin
covers or circular pieces of paper cut larger than the glasses, and
fastened securely over the edge with mucilage. Some prefer to
cover jelly with melted paraffine than to adjust covers.

To Make a Jelly Bag. Fold two opposite corners of a piece of
cotton and wool flannel three-fourths yard long. Sew up in the
form of a cornucopia, rounding at the end. Fell the seam to make
more secure. Bind the top with tape, and furnish with two or three
heavy loops by which it may be hung.

Apple Jelly

Wipe apples, remove stem and blossom ends, and cut in quarters.
Put in a granite or porcelain-lined preserving kettle, and add cold
water to come nearly to top of apples. Cover, and cook slowly until
apples are soft; mash, and drain through a coarse sieve. Avoid
squeezing apples, which makes jelly cloudy. Then allow juice to
drip through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag. Boil
twenty minutes, and add an equal quantity of heated sugar; boil
five minutes, skim, and turn in glasses. Put in a sunny window, and
let stand twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place.
Porter apples make a delicious flavored jelly. If apples are pared, a
much lighter jelly may be made. Gravenstein apples make a very
spicy jelly.

To Heat Sugar. Put in a granite dish, place in oven, leaving oven
door ajar, and stir occasionally.

Quince Jelly

Follow recipe for Apple Jelly, using quinces in place of apples,
and removing seeds from fruit. Quince parings are often used for
jelly, the better part of the fruit being used for canning.

Crab Apple Jelly

Follow recipe for Apple Jelly, leaving apples whole instead of
cutting in quarters.

Currant Jelly

Currants are in the best condition for making jelly between June
twenty-eighth and July third, and should not be picked directly
after a rain. Cherry currants make the best jelly. Equal proportions
of red and white currants are considered desirable, and make a
lighter colored jelly.

Pick over currants, but do not remove stems; wash and drain. Mash
a few in the bottom of a preserving kettle, using a wooden potato
masher; so continue until berries are used. Cook slowly until
currants look white. Strain through a coarse strainer, then allow
juice to drop through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly
bag. Measure, bring to boiling-point, and boil five minutes; add an
equal measure of heated sugar, boil three minutes, skim, and pour
into glasses. Place in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four
hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place.

Currant and Raspberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using equal parts of currants and
raspberries.

Blackberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using blackberries in place of
currants.

Raspberry Jelly

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using raspberries in place of
currants. Raspberry Jelly is the most critical to make, and should
not be attempted if fruit is thoroughly ripe, or if it has been long
picked.

Barberry Jelly

Barberry Jelly is firmer and of better color if made from fruit
picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are still
green. Make same as Currant Jelly, allowing one cup water to one
peck barberries.

Grape Jelly

Grapes should be picked over, washed, and stems removed before
putting into a preserving kettle. Heat to boiling-point, mash, and
boil thirty minutes; then proceed as for Currant Jelly. Wild grapes
make the best jelly.

Green Grape Jelly

Grapes should be picked when just beginning to turn. Make same
as Grape Jelly.

Venison Jelly

1 peck wild grapes
Whole cloves
1/4 cup each
1 quart vinegar
Stick cinnamon
6 pounds sugar

Put first four ingredients into a preserving kettle, heat slowly to the
boiling-point, and cook until grapes are soft. Strain through a
double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag, and boil liquid
twenty minutes; then add sugar heated, and boil five minutes. Turn
into glasses.

Damson Jelly

Wipe and pick over damsons; then prick several times with a large
pin. Make same as Currant Jelly, using three-fourths as much sugar
as fruit juice.

JAMS

Raspberries and blackberries are the fruits most often employed
for making jams, and require equal weight of sugar and fruit.

Raspberry Jam

Pick over raspberries. Mash a few in the bottom of a preserving
kettle, using a wooden potato masher, and so continue until the
fruit is used. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and add gradually an
equal quantity of heated sugar. Cook slowly forty-five minutes. Put
in a stone jar or tumblers.

Blackberry Jam

Follow recipe for Raspberry Jam, using blackberries in place of
raspberries.

MARMALADES

Marmalades are made of the pulp and juice of fruits with sugar.

Grape Marmalade

Pick over, wash, drain, and remove stems from grapes. Separate
pulp from skins. Put pulp in preserving kettle. Heat to
boiling-point, and cook slowly until seeds separate from pulp; then
rub through a hair sieve. Return to kettle with skins, add an equal
measure of sugar, and cook slowly thirty minutes, occasionally
stirring to prevent burning. Put in a stone jar or tumblers.

Quince Marmalade

Wipe quinces, remove blossom ends, cut in quarters, remove
seeds; then cut in small pieces. Put into a preserving kettle, and
add enough water to nearly cover. Cook slowly until soft. Rub
through a hair sieve, and add three-fourths its measure of heated
sugar. Cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to
prevent burning. Put in tumblers.

Orange Marmalade I

Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. Weigh oranges, and allow
three-fourths their weight in cut sugar. Remove peel from oranges
in quarters. Cook peel until soft in enough boiling water to cover;
drain, remove white part from peel by scraping it with a spoon.
Cut thin yellow rind in strips, using a pair of scissors. This is more
quickly accomplished by cutting through two or three pieces at a
time. Divide oranges in sections, remove seeds and tough part of
the skin. Put into a preserving kettle and heat to boiling-point, add
sugar gradually, and cook slowly one hour; add rind, and cook one
hour longer. Turn into glasses.

Orange Marmalade II

Slice nine oranges and six lemons crosswise with a sharp knife as
thinly as possible, remove seeds, and put in a preserving kettle
with four quarts water. Cover, and let stand thirty-six hours; then
boil for two hours, add eight pounds sugar, and boil one hour
longer.

Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade

Remove peel in quarters from eight oranges and prepare as for
Orange Marmalade. Divide oranges in sections, remove seeds and
tough part of skin. Put into a preserving kettle, add five pounds
rhubarb, skinned and cut in one-half inch pieces. Heat to
boiling-point, and boil one-half hour; then add four pounds cut
sugar and cut rind. Cook slowly two hours. Turn into glasses.

Quince Honey

Pare and grate five large quinces. To one pint boiling water add
five pounds sugar. Stir over fire until sugar is dissolved, add
quince, and cook fifteen or twenty minutes. Turn into glasses.
When cold it should be about the color and consistency of honey.

Chapter XXXVIII. THE CANNING OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES BY THE
OPEN KETTLE METHOD
(Used principally for fruits).

Directions

FRUIT for canning should be fresh, firm, of good quality, and not
over-ripe; if over-ripe, some of the spores may survive the boiling,
then fermentation will take place in a short time.

For canning fruit, allow one-third its weight in sugar, and two and
one-half to three cups water to each pound of sugar. Boil sugar and
water ten minutes to make a thin syrup; then cook a small quantity
of the fruit at a time in the syrup; by so doing, fruit may be kept in
perfect shape. Hard fruits, like pineapple and quince, are cooked in
boiling water until nearly soft, then put in syrup to finish cooking.
Sterilized jars are then filled with fruit, and enough syrup added to
overflow jars. If there is not sufficient syrup, add boiling water, as
jars must be filled to overflow. Introduce a spoon between fruit
and jar, that air bubbles may rise to the top and break; then quickly
put on rubbers and screw on sterilized covers. Let stand until cold,
again screw covers, being sure this time that jars are air-tight.
While filling jars, place them on a cloth wrung out of hot water.

To Sterilize Jars

Wash jars and fill with cold water. Set in a kettle on a trivet, and
surround with cold water. Heat gradually to boiling-point, remove
from water, empty, and fill while hot. Put covers in hot water and
let stand five minutes. Dip rubber bands in hot water, but do not
allow them to stand. New rubbers should be used each season, and
care must be taken that rims of covers are not bent, as jars cannot
then be hermetically sealed.

Canned Porter Apples

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare Porter apples, then weigh. Make a
syrup by boiling for ten minutes one-third their weight in sugar
with water, allowing two and one-half cups to each pound of
sugar. Cook apples in syrup until soft, doing a few at a time. Fill
jars, following Directions for Canning.

Canned Peaches

Wipe peaches and put in boiling water, allowing them to stand just
long enough to easily loosen skins. Remove skins and cook fruit at
once, that it may not discolor, following Directions for Canning.
Some prefer to pare peaches, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand
overnight. In morning drain, add water to fruit syrup, bring to
boiling-point, and then cook fruit. Peaches may be cut in halves, or
smaller pieces if desired.

Canned Pears

Wipe and pare fruit. Cook whole with stems left on, or remove
stems, cut in quarters, and core. Follow Directions for Canning. A
small piece of ginger root or a few slicings of lemon rind may be
cooked with syrup. Bartlett pears are the best for canning.

Canned Pineapples

Remove skin and eyes from pineapples; then cut in half-inch
slices, and slices in cubes, at the same time discarding the core.
Follow Directions for Canning. Pineapples may be shredded and
cooked in one-half their weight of sugar without water, and then
put in jars. When put up in this way they are useful for the making
of sherbets and fancy desserts.

Canned Quinces

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare quinces. Follow Directions for
Canning. Quinces may be cooked with an equal weight of sweet
apples wiped, quartered, cored, and pared; in this case use no extra
sugar for apples.

Canned Cherries

Use large white or red cherries. Wash, remove stems, then follow
Directions for Canning.

Canned Huckleberries

Pick over and wash berries, then put in a preserving kettle with a
small quantity of water to prevent berries from burning. Cook until
soft, stirring occasionally, and put in jars. No sugar is required, but
a sprinkling of salt is an agreeable addition.

Canned Rhubarb

Pare rhubarb and cut in one-inch pieces. Pack in a jar, put under
cold water faucet, and let water run twenty minutes, then screw on
cover. Rhubarb canned in this way has often been known to keep a
year.

Canned Tomatoes

Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until skins
may be easily removed. Cut in pieces and cook until thoroughly
scalded; skim often during cooking. Fill jars, following directions
given.

Damson Preserves

Wipe damsons with a piece of cheese-cloth wrung out of cold
water, and prick each fruit five or six times, using a large needle;
then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling three-fourths their weight in
sugar with water, allowing one cup to each pound of sugar. As
soon as syrup reaches boiling-point, skim, and add plums, a few at
a time, that fruit may better keep in shape during cooking. Cook
until soft. It is well to use two kettles, that work may be more
quickly done, and syrup need not cook too long a time. Put into
glass or stone jars.

Strawberry Preserves

Pick over, wash, drain, and hull strawberries; then weigh. Fill glass
jars with berries. Make a syrup same as for Damson Preserve,
cooking the syrup fifteen minutes. Add syrup to overflow jars; let
stand fifteen minutes, when fruit will have shrunk, and more fruit
must be added to fill jars. Screw on covers, put on a trivet in a
kettle of cold water, heat water to boiling-point, and keep just
below boiling-point one hour.

Raspberries may be preserved in the same way.

Pear Chips

8 lbs. pears
1/4 lb. Canton ginger
4 lbs. sugar
4 lemons

Wipe pears, remove stems, quarter, and core; then cut in small
pieces. Add sugar and ginger, and let stand overnight. In the
morning add lemons cut in small pieces, rejecting seeds, and cook
slowly three hours. Put into a stone jar.

Raspberry and Currant Preserve

6 lbs. currants
6 lbs. sugar
8 quarts raspberries

Pick over, wash, and drain currants. Put into a preserving kettle,
adding a few at a time, and mash. Cook one hour, strain through
double thickness of cheese-cloth. Return to kettle, add sugar, heat
to boiling-point, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Add one quart
raspberries when syrup again reaches boiling-point, skim out
raspberries, put in jar, and repeat until raspberries are used. Fill
jars to overflowing with syrup, and screw on tops.

Brandied Peaches

1 peck peaches
Half their weight in sugar
1 quart high-proof alcohol or brandy
Remove skins from peaches, and put alternate layers of peaches
and sugar in a stone jar; then add alcohol. Cover closely, having a
heavy piece of cloth under cover of jar.

Tutti-Frutti

Put one pint brandy into a stone jar, add the various fruits as they
come into market; to each quart of fruit add the same quantity of
sugar, and stir the mixture each morning until all the fruit has been
added. Raspberries, strawberries, apricots, peaches, cherries, and
pineapples are the best to use.

Canned Red Peppers

Wash one peck red peppers, cut a slice from stem end of each, and
remove seeds; then cut in thin strips by working around and
around the peppers, using scissors or a sharp vegetable knife.
Cover with boiling water, let stand two minutes, drain, and plunge
into ice-water. Let stand ten minutes, again drain, and pack solidly
into pint glass jars. Boil one quart vinegar and two cups sugar
fifteen minutes. Pour over peppers to overflow jars, cover, and
keep in a cold place.

Preserved Melon Rind

Pare and cut in strips the rind of ripe melons. Soak in alum water
to cover, allowing two teaspoons powdered alum to each quart of
water. Heat gradually to boiling-point and cook slowly ten
minutes. Drain, cover with ice-water, and let stand two hours;
again drain, and dry between towels. Weigh, allow one pound
sugar to each pound of fruit, and one cup water to each pound of
sugar. Boil sugar and water ten minutes. Add melon rind, and cook
until tender. Remove rind to a stone jar, and cover with syrup. Two
lemons cut in slices may be cooked ten minutes in the syrup.

Tomato Preserve

1 lb. yellow pear tomatoes
2 ozs. preserved Canton ginger

1 lb. sugar
2 lemons

Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until skins
may be easily removed. Add sugar, cover, and let stand overnight.
In the morning pour off syrup and boil until quite thick; skim, then
add tomatoes, ginger, and lemons which have been sliced and the
seeds removed. Cook until tomatoes have a clarified appearance.

BY THE COLD PACK METHOD

The Cold Pack Method is so named because the product is cool
when packed into its container. Fruits and vegetables canned by
the Cold Pack Method are properly selected and prepared, then
sterilized a required length of time in their containers.

There are thirteen distinct steps in the process:
     1.   Grade product. (By product is meant the article to
be canned.)
     2.   Prepare product.
     3.   Wash product.
     4.   Blanch vegetables and hard fruits by boiling,
scalding, or steaming. Do not blanch berries or soft fruits.
     5.   Plunge product in cold water. This is called the
"cold dip."
     6.   Pack in jars.
     7.   To fruits add syrup; to vegetables add hot water and
salt.
Adjust rubbers and covers.
Partially tighten covers.
Sterilize or "process" product required length of time.
Remove jar from boiling water.
Tighten cover of jar.
Invert jar to cool.

Explanation of Steps in the Cold Pack Process

Grading. Fruit and vegetables should be fresh, free from decay,
and as nearly uniform in shape and state of ripeness as is possible.
Wilted fruits or vegetables cannot be guaranteed to keep. Use
imperfect fruit for jams. Can vegetables as soon as picked and fruit
the same day as picked.

Preparation of Vegetables. Vegetables to be canned are prepared
in the same way as when cooked for the table. When the can is
opened, the contents will be ready to use.

Washing. Vegetables are in danger of spoiling if dirt or foreign
substances of any kind remain on them. They must be thoroughly
cleaned by washing or wiping before being blanched.
Blanching. Blanching is the term used to designate the process of
short cooking before the product is put into its container. To
blanch the fruit or vegetable place a quantity sufficient to fill one
jar in a wire basket, plunge into a large kettle of boiling water, and
leave the length of time required in the time-table for blanching.
Use a square yard of cheese-cloth with opposite corners tied, if
wire basket is not at hand. Minutes are counted from the time the
water begins to boil after the product is put into it. Be sure that the
water reaches all parts of the product.

If the blanching kettle is filled with fruit, the water becomes
chilled and takes so long to come again to the boiling point that
the fruit becomes soft before it is heated through, while the juices
of the vegetables are drawn out in the water. Therefore, plunge
only a small amount of fruit and vegetables at a time.

In steaming, the product is heated by steam but is not immersed in
water.

In scalding, the product is plunged into the water. The minutes are
counted from the time it is immersed without waiting for the water
to come to the boiling-point. Scalding loosens the skins of fruit
and vegetables that have to be peeled.

Blanching removes any foreign matter that escaped the washing,
and any strong flavor that might be undesirable in the cooked
product, and makes it possible to sterilize vegetables in one period
of cooking. Vegetables not blanched require three periods of
cooking on three successive days.

Cold Dip. Immediately upon removing product from boiling water
or steam used in blanching, plunge it into cold water, lifting it up
and down in the water three times; then drain. Use plenty of water
and have it cold. Never allow product to soak in water. The cold
dip helps to keep product in shape during sterilization, and makes
it easier to remove skins and to handle product while packing in
jars.

Packing in Jars. Any jar or can that is clean and can be made
air-tight may be used. Large-mouthed, clear glass jars are to be
preferred for home use, as they are easy to fill and can be used
again and again. First warm the jars by rinsing them in hot water
and let stand in hot water until used. Pack product firmly and
closely, leaving no open spaces, but being careful that product is
not jammed or crushed. Arrange products so that they will look
well through the glass. Pack jars and put in sterilizer one at a time.

Adding Syrup or Hot Water. Fill jars to within half an inch of top
with boiling liquid, pouring it slowly to avoid breaking. For
vegetables, expect tomatoes, use boiling water and allow one
teaspoon of salt to each quart jar. For tomatoes use tomato juice
and no water. For fruits, make a syrup by boiling two parts water
with three parts sugar. This may be boiled only long enough to
dissolve the sugar, if fruit needs very little sweetening; or to a very
thick syrup for rich preserves. For unsweetened fruits use only
water or fruit juice and no sugar.

Cut spinach or other greens diagonally with a knife after they are
in the jar, so that water can reach center of greens in jar.

Any air space remaining at top of jar will be sterilized and can
make no trouble.

Adjusting Rubber and Cover. When jars are packed, put on the
rubbers. These must be new each year, and tested. If a rubber
comes back to its original size after being stretched, it is right for
use; if it remains enlarged, discard it. It is imperative that rubbers
be elastic and tight. Covers and jar tops must be smooth and fit
correctly.

Partially Tighten Covers. Put on the covers and partially tighten.
Leave the lower lever of jar up and do not quite complete turning
screws of screw-top jars. If the cover is put on perfectly tight there
will be no room for expansion and breakage is liable to occur.

Sterilizing or Processing. To sterilize, slowly lower the product in
its can, top up, in a kettle or boiler of boiling water; then add water
to cover the jars two inches over the top. Bring the water to the
boiling-point and keep boiling the length of time given on the
time-table for sterilizing the product being canned. A rack in the
bottom of the kettle is necessary to keep the cans from resting
directly on the bottom, or individual wire holders can be used.
Keep the water boiling constantly during the sterilizing process.

Removing Jars. A wire holder with handle for each jar is
convenient to use. If they are not at hand, lift jars from boiling
water with a long-handled skimmer, or spring fork.

Tighten the Cover. Tighten the cover immediately.

Inverting Jars. Place jars upside down on a cloth, allowing space
between jars. Keep protected from drafts. A draft in the kitchen
causes more breaks than anything else. If a can shows signs of
fermentation after two or three days, loosen the covers and
sterilize again for a short time.

TIME-TABLES

Time-table for Blanching and Sterilizing Vegetables and Greens

Product
Blanch
Size of Can
Time for Cooking

Beans
5 minutes
pint or quart
3 hours

Beets
6 minutes
quart
11/2 hours

Carrots
5 minutes
quart
11/2 hours

Corn
5 10 minutes
pint or quart
4 hours

Greens
10 minutes
quart
2 hours

Parsnips
5 minutes
quart
11/2 hours

Peas
5 minutes
pint
3 hours

Pumpkin
5 minutes
quart
2 hours

Squash
5 minutes
quart
2 hours

Succotash
(as for corn and beans)
pint or quart
3 hours

Sweet Peppers
5 10 minutes

2 hours

Swiss Chard
10 minutes
quart
2 hours

Turnips
6 minutes
quart
11/2 hours

Time-table for Scalding and Sterilizing Vegetables

Product
Scald
Size of Can
Time for Cooking

Asparagus
5 10 minutes
pint or quart
1 hour

Tomatoes
1 2 minutes
pint or quart
22 minutes

Vegetable combinations

2 hours

Time-table for Scalding and Sterilizing Fruits

Product
Scald
Size of Can
Time for Cooking

Peaches
1 2 minutes
pint or quart
16 minutes

Plums
1 2 minutes
pint
16 minutes

Quinces
2 minutes
quart
30 minutes

Pineapples
5 minutes
pint or quart
30 minutes

Crab Apples
1 2 minutes
pint
20 minutes

Apples, Whole
2 minutes
quart
16 minutes

Apples, Sliced
2 minutes
quart
12 minutes

Fruit without Sugar Syrup

30 minutes

Time-table for Sterilizing Berries and Soft Fruits that do not
Require Blanching

Product
Size of Can
Time for Cooking

Blackberries
pint or quart
16 minutes

Blueberries
pint
16 minutes

Cherries
pint
16 minutes

Currants
pint
16 minutes

Dewberries
pint or quart
16 minutes

Grapes (Grape Juice)
pint
16 minutes

Gooseberries
pint
16 minutes

Huckleberries
pint
16 minutes

Pears
pint
20 minutes

Raspberries
pint or quart
16 minutes

Rhubarb
quart
15 minutes

Strawberries
quart
16 minutes

Size of Can. Where time is given for cooking pint jar, add a few
minutes for a quart jar. Jars must be covered with water.

Variation in Time. The time will vary somewhat, according to the
condition of the fruit.

PICKLING

Pickling is preserving in any salt or acid liquor.

Spiced Currants

7 lbs. currants
3 tablespoons cinnamon
5 lbs. brown sugar
3 tablespoons clove
1 pint vinegar

Pick over currants, wash, drain, and remove stems. Put in a
preserving kettle, add sugar, vinegar, and spices tied in a piece of
muslin. Heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly one and one-half
hours. Store in a stone jar and keep in a cool place. Spiced currants
are a delicious accompaniment to cold meat.
Sweet Pickled Peaches

1/2 peck peaches
1 pint vinegar
2 lbs. brown sugar
1 oz. stick cinnamon
Cloves

Boil sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon twenty minutes. Dip peaches
quickly in hot water, then rub off the fur with a towel. Stick each
peach with four cloves. Put into syrup, and cook until soft, using
one-half peaches at a time.

Sweet Pickled Pears

Follow recipe for Sweet Pickled Peaches, using pears in place of
peaches.

Beet Relish

1 cup chopped cold cooked beets
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons grated horseradish root
2 teaspoons powdered sugar
1 teaspoon salt

Mix ingredients in order given. Canned beets may be used in place
of fresh ones, and bottled horseradish if of strong flavor and well
drained. This is delicious served with cold meat or fish.

Celery Relish

11/2 cups chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon mustard
1/4 cup vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given. Cover and let stand in a cold place
one and one-half hours. Drain off the liquid before serving. When
preparing celery include some of the small tender leaves.

Tomato and Celery Relish

1 onion finely chopped
finely chopped
1 tablespoon salt
1 large green pepper
2 tablespoons sugar
1 large bunch celery
2 allspice berries
21/2 cups canned or fresh tomatoes
2/3 cup vinegar

Mix ingredients, heat gradually to the boiling-point, and cook
slowly one and one-half hours. Cayenne or mustard may be added
if liked more highly seasoned.

Chili Sauce

12 medium-sized ripe tomatoes
1 tablespoon salt
1 pepper, finely chopped
2 teaspoons clove
1 onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 cups vinegar
2 teaspoons allspice
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons grated nutmeg

Peel tomatoes and slice. Put in a preserving kettle with remaining
ingredients. Heat gradually to boiling-point, and cook slowly two
and one-half hours.

Ripe Tomato Pickle

3 pints tomatoes, peeled and chopped
4 tablespoons salt
6 tablespoons sugar

1 cup chopped celery
6 tablespoons mustard seed
4 tablespoons chopped red pepper
1/2 teaspoon clove
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
4 tablespoons chopped onion
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 cups vinegar

Mix ingredients in order given. Put in a stone jar and cover. This
uncooked mixture must stand a week before using, but may be
kept a year.

Ripe Cucumber Pickle

Cut cucumbers in halves lengthwise. Cover with alum water,
allowing two teaspoons powdered alum to each quart of water.
Heat gradually to boiling-point, then let stand on back of range two
hours. Remove from alum water and chill in ice-water. Make a
syrup by boiling five minutes two pounds sugar, one pint vinegar,
with two tablespoons each of whole cloves and stick cinnamon
tied in a piece of muslin. Add cucumbers and cook ten minutes.
Remove cucumbers to a stone jar, and pour over the syrup. Scald
syrup three successive mornings, and return to cucumbers.

Unripe Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins)

Wipe four quarts small unripe cucumbers. Put in a stone jar and
add one cup salt dissolved in two quarts boiling water and let stand
three days. Drain cucumbers from brine, bring brine to
boiling-point, pour over cucumbers, and again let stand three days;
repeat. Drain, wipe cucumbers, and pour over one gallon boiling
water in which one tablespoon alum has been dissolved. Let stand
six hours, then drain from alum water. Cook cucumbers ten
minutes, a few at a time, in one-fourth the following mixture
heated to the boiling-point and boiled ten minutes: 
1 gallon vinegar
2 sticks cinnamon

4 red peppers
2 tablespoons allspice berries

2 tablespoons cloves

Strain remaining liquor over pickles which have been put in a
stone jar.

Chopped Pickles

4 quarts chopped green tomatoes
3 teaspoons allspice

3/4 cup salt
3 teaspoons cloves
2 teaspoons pepper
1/2 cup white mustard seed

3 teaspoons mustard
4 green peppers, sliced

3 teaspoons cinnamon
2 chopped onions

2 quarts vinegar

Add salt to tomatoes, cover, let stand twenty-four hours, and drain.
Add spices to vinegar, and heat to boiling-point; then add
tomatoes, peppers, and onions, bring to boiling-point, and cook
fifteen minutes after boiling-point is reached. Store in a stone jar
and keep in a cool place.

Spanish Pickles

1 peck green tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/2 oz. peppercorns

1/2 cup brown mustard seed

4 onions, thinly sliced
1 lb. brown sugar

1 cup salt
4 green peppers, finely chopped

1/2 oz. cloves

1/2 oz. allspice berries
Cider vinegar

Sprinkle alternate layers of tomatoes and onions with salt, and let
stand overnight. In the morning drain, and put in a preserving
kettle, adding remaining ingredients, using enough vinegar to
cover all. Heat gradually to boiling-point and boil one-half hour.

Chow-Chow

2 quarts small green tomatoes
1/4 lb. mustard seed

12 small cucumbers
2 oz. turmeric

3 red peppers
1/2 oz. allspice

1 cauliflower
1/2 oz. pepper

2 bunches celery
1/2 oz. clove

1 pint small onions
Salt

2 quarts string beans
1 gallon vinegar

Prepare vegetables and cut in small pieces, cover with salt, let
stand twenty-four hours, and drain. Heat vinegar and spices to
boiling-point, add vegetables, and cook until soft.

Pickled Onions
Peel small white onions, cover with brine, allowing one and
one-half cups salt to two quarts boiling water, and let stand two
days; drain, and cover with more brine; let stand two days, and
again drain. Make more brine and heat to boiling-point; put in
onions and boil three minutes. Put in jars, interspersing with bits of
mace, white peppercorns, cloves, bits of bay leaf, and slices of red
pepper. Fill jars to overflow with vinegar scalded with sugar,
allowing one cup sugar to one gallon vinegar. Cork while hot.

Chapter XXXIX. THE DRYING OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.

DRYING is one of the simplest and cheapest ways of preserving
fruits and vegetables for future use. Food may be dried by the sun
or by artificial heat. If dried in the sun, protection from dust must
be given, and food must be put under cover in the evening before
the dew falls. Spread the prepared fruit or vegetable on frames
covered with coarse wire netting or cheese-cloth and put in the sun
for successive days until the product is sufficiently dried. Artificial
drying is quicker and cleaner than sun drying, especially in
moderate and cold climates. In drying food by artificial heat use a
patent drier that will dry the largest amount of food with the
smallest expenditure of time and heat.
Preparation of Product. Fruits and vegetables to be dried by either
the sun or artificial heat should be thoroughly washed and drained,
and have all inedible portions removed. Blanching, with but few
exceptions, is not essential if the product is either thinly sliced or
cut in small pieces before being placed to dry. Corn is an
exception to this rule. It should be blanched on the cob five
minutes, cold dipped, and cut from the cob before drying.

On the Drier. Place pieces of fruit or vegetables in rows, close
together, one layer deep, on the drying rack. If a patent drier is
used, regulate the heat with a thermometer according to the
time-table for drying. Turn the product while drying when
necessary to keep it from adhering to the pan and make sure that
every portion is subjected to heat. Quick drying is preferable to
slow drying, but the heat must not be sufficient to cook the
product. Remove as soon as dried.

Length of Time for Drying. When done, the product should feel
dry on the outside but should be slightly soft inside. It will be
pliable in the fingers but it will not be possible to squeeze out
water. Nothing should be dried until brittle, for if the product is
dried until hard and crisp, it will not soften when wanted for use.

Conditioning. After the products are sufficiently dried, put in glass
or pasteboard containers. For four successive days remove contents
from container, pouring back and forth between two bowls several
times, and then return to container. Moist and dry particles are thus
brought into contact with each other, and a more even state of
dryness is brought about. Conscientious conditioning is essential.
If products seem too moist, return them to the racks for another
period of drying. Look at the dried products once a week until the
danger of mold is passed.

Greens, after being thoroughly washed and drained, should be
spread out a leaf at a time. If they are piled up over each other,
they will not dry. Turn frequently and remove while pliable, before
they are dry enough to crack.

Rules and time-tables for drying serve as guides, but should be
varied whenever the condition of fruits or vegetables, or the
manner of drying, requires changes.

Table for Drying

Product
Time for Drying
Temperature

Corn 
3 4 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Beans, String, young
2 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Beans, String, more mature
3 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Lima Beans
3 31/2 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Peas
11/2  2 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Beets. Boil whole until 3/4 done, skin, and cut
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Turnips. Treat same as beets
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Carrots
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Parsnips
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Kohlrabi
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Celeriac
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Salsify
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Onions
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Leeks
21/2  3 hours
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Cabbage
3 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Spinach

Dry thoroughly

Parsley

Dry thoroughly

Beet Tops

Dry thoroughly

Swiss Chard

Dry thoroughly

Celery

Dry thoroughly

Rhubarb

Dry thoroughly

Cauliflower
2 3 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.
Brussels Sprouts 
Blanch 6 minutes in boiling water with a pinch of soda
2 3 hours
110 degrees 145 degrees F.

Pumpkins
3 4 hours
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Squash
3 4 hours
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Apples
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Pears
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Quinces
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Peaches
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Plums. Let stand 20 minutes in boiling water
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Apricots. Let stand 20 minutes in boiling water
4 6 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Cherries
2 4 hours
110 degrees 150 degrees F.

Okra. Let stand 3 minutes in boiling water with a pinch of soda
2 3 hours
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Peppers
Dry thoroughly
110 degrees 140 degrees F.

Chapter XL. HELPFUL HINTS FOR THE YOUNG
HOUSEKEEPER.

To Scald Milk. Put in top of double boiler, having water boiling in
under part. Cover, and let stand on top of range until milk around
edge of double boiler has a beadlike appearance.

For Buttered Cracker Crumbs, allow from one-fourth to one-third
cup melted butter to each cup of crumbs. Stir lightly with a fork in
mixing, that crumbs may be evenly coated and light rather than
compact.

To Cream Butter. Put in a bowl and work with a wooden spoon
until soft and of creamy consistency. Should buttermilk exude
from butter it should be poured off.

To Extract Juice from Onion. Cut a slice from root end of onion,
draw back the skin, and press onion on a coarse grater, working
with a rotary motion.

To Chop Parsley. Remove leaves from parsley. If parsley is wet,
first dry in a towel. Gather parsley between thumb and fingers and
press compactly. With a sharp vegetable knife cut through and
through. Again gather in fingers and recut, so continuing until
parsley is finely cut.

To Caramelize Sugar. Put in a smooth granite saucepan or omelet
pan, place over hot part of range, and stir constantly until melted
and of the color of maple syrup. Care must be taken to prevent
sugar from adhering to sides of pan or spoon.

To Make Caramel. Continue the caramelization of sugar until
syrup is quite brown and a whitish smoke arises from it. Add an
equal quantity of boiling water, and simmer until of the
consistency of a thick syrup. Of use in coloring soups, sauces, etc.

Acidulated Water is water to which vinegar or lemon juice is
added. One tablespoon of the acid is allowed to one quart water.

To Blanch Almonds. Cover Jordan almonds with boiling water and
let stand two minutes; drain, put into cold water, and rub off the
skins. Dry between towels.

To Shred Almonds. Cut blanched almonds in thin strips lengthwise
of the nut.

Macaroon Dust. Dry macaroons pounded and sifted.

To Shell Chestnuts. Cut a half-inch gash on flat sides and put in an
omelet pan, allowing one-half teaspoon butter to each cup
chestnuts. Shake over range until butter is melted. Put in oven and
let stand five minutes. Remove from oven, and with a small knife
take off shells. By this method shelling and blanching is
accomplished at the same time, as skins adhere to shells.

Flavoring Extracts and Wine should be added if possible to a
mixture when cold. If added while mixture is hot, much of the
goodness passes off with the steam.

Meat Glaze. Four quarts stock reduced to one cup.

Mixed Mustard. Mix two tablespoons mustard and one teaspoon
sugar, add hot water gradually until of the consistency of a thick
paste. Vinegar may be used in place of water.

To Prevent Salt from Lumping. Mix with corn-starch, allowing one
teaspoon corn-starch to six teaspoons salt.

To Wash Carafes. Half fill with hot soapsuds, to which is added
one teaspoon washing soda. Put in newspaper torn in small pieces.
Let stand one-half hour, occasionally shaking. Empty, rinse with
hot water, drain, wipe outside, and let stand to dry inside.

After Broiling or Frying, if any fat has spattered on range, wipe
surface at once with newspaper.

To Remove Fruit Stains. Pour boiling water over stained surface,
having it fall from a distance of three feet. This is a much better
way than dipping stain in and out of hot water; or wring articles
out of cold water and hang out of doors on a frosty night.

To Remove Stains of Claret Wine. As soon as claret is spilt, cover
spot with salt. Let stand a few minutes, then rinse in cold water.

To Clean Graniteware where mixtures have been cooked or burned
on. Half fill with cold water, add washing soda, heat water
gradually to boiling-point, then empty, when dish may be easily
washed. Pearline or any soap-powder may be used in place of
washing soda.

To Wash Mirrors and Windows. Rub over with chamois skin
wrung out of warm water, then wipe with a piece of dry chamois
skin. This method saves much strength.

To Remove White Spots from Furniture. Dip a cloth in hot water
nearly to boiling-point. Place over spot, remove quickly, and rub
over spot with a dry cloth. Repeat if spot is not removed. Alcohol
or camphor quickly applied may be used.

Tumblers which have contained milk should be first rinsed in cold
water before washing in hot water.

To keep a Sink Drain free from grease, pour down once a week at
night one-half can Babbitt's potash dissolved in one quart water.

Should Sink Drain chance to get choked, pour into sink one-fourth
pound copperas dissolved in two quarts boiling water. If this is not
efficacious, repeat before sending for a plumber.

Never put Knives with ivory handles in water. Hot water causes
them to crack and discolor.

To prevent Glassware from being easily broken, put in a kettle of
cold water, heat gradually until water has reached boiling-point.
Set aside; when water is cold take out glass. This is a most
desirable way to toughen lamp chimneys.

To Remove Grease Spots. Cold water and Ivory Soap will remove
grease spots from cotton and woollen fabrics. Castilian Cream is
useful for black woollen goods, but leaves a light ring on
delicately colored goods. Ether is always sure and safe to use.

To Remove Iron Rust. Saturate spot with lemon juice, then cover
with salt. Let stand in the sun for several hours; or a solution of
hydrochloric acid may be used.

Iron Rust may be removed from delicate fabrics by covering spot
thickly with cream of tartar, then twisting cloth to keep cream of
tartar over spot; put in a saucepan of cold water, and heat water
gradually to boiling-point.

To Remove Grass Stains from cotton goods, wash in alcohol.

To Remove Ink Stains. Wash in a solution of hydrochloric acid,
and rinse in ammonia water. Wet the spot with warm water, put on
Sapolio, rub gently between the hands, and generally the spot will
disappear.

Cut Glass should be washed and rinsed in water that is not very hot
and of same temperature.

In Sweeping Carpets, keep broom close to floor and work with the
grain of the carpet. Occasionally turn broom that it may wear
evenly.

Tie Strands of a New Broom closely together, put into a pail of
boiling water, and soak two hours. Dry thoroughly before using.

Never wash the inside of Tea or Coffee Pots with soapsuds. If
granite or agate ware is used, and becomes badly discolored,
nearly fill pot with cold water, add one tablespoon borax, and heat
gradually until water reaches the boil- ing-point. Rinse with hot
water, wipe, and keep on back of range until perfectly dry.

Never put cogs of a Dover Egg-beater in water.

Never wash Bread Boards in a sink. Scrub with grain of wood,
using a small brush.

Before using a new Iron Kettle, grease inside and outside, and let
stand forty-eight hours; then wash in hot water in which a large
lump of cooking soda has been dissolved.

To clean a Copper Boiler, use Putz Pomade Cream. Apply with a
woollen cloth when boiler is warm, not hot; then rub off with
second woollen cloth and polish with flannel or chamois. If badly
tarnished, use oxalic acid. Faucets and brasses are treated in the
same way.

A bottle containing Oxalic Acid should be marked poison, and
kept on a high shelf.

To keep an Ice Chest in good condition, wash thoroughly once a
week with cold or lukewarm water in which washing soda has
been dissolved. If by chance anything is spilt in an ice chest, it
should be wiped off at once.
Milk and butter very quickly absorb odors, and if in ice chest with
other foods, should be kept closely covered.

Hard Wood Floors and Furniture may be polished by using a small
quantity of kerosene oil applied with a woollen cloth, then rubbing
with a clean woollen cloth. A very good furniture polish is made
by using equal parts linseed oil and turpentine.

Polish for Hard Wood Floors. Use one part beeswax to two parts
turpentine. Put in saucepan on range, and when wax is dissolved a
paste will be formed.

To clean Piano Keys, rub over with alcohol.

To remove old Tea and Coffee Stains, wet spot with cold water0,
cover with glycerine, and let stand two or three hours. Then wash
with cold water and hard soap. Repeat if necessary.

Before Sweeping Old Carpets, sprinkle with pieces of newspaper
wrung out of water. After sweeping, wipe over with a cloth wrung
out of a weak solution of ammonia water, which seems to brighten
colors.

Platt's Chloride is one of the best Disinfectants. Chloride of lime is
a valuable disinfectant, and much cheaper than Platt's Chloride.

Listerine is an excellent disinfectant to use for the mouth and
throat.

To Make a Pastry Bag. Fold a twelve-inch square of rubber cloth
from two opposite corners. Sew edges together, forming a
triangular bag. Cut off point to make opening large enough to
insert a tin pastry tube. A set comprising bag and twelve adjustable
tubes may be bought for two and one-half dollars.

Smoked Ceilings may be cleaned by washing with cloths wrung
out of water in which a small piece of washing soda has been
dissolved.

For a Burn apply equal parts of white of egg and olive oil mixed
together, then cover with a piece of old linen; if applied at once no
blister will form. Or apply at once cooking soda, then cover with
cloth and keep the same wet with cold water. This takes out the
pain and prevents blistering.

Curtain and Portire Poles allow the hangings to slip easily if
rubbed with hard soap. This is much better than greasing.

Creaking Doors and Drawers should be treated in the same way.

To Remove Dust from Rattan Furniture use a painter's small brush.

Chapter XLI. SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING.

Breakfast Menus

Oranges
Cereal with Sugar and Cream

Spider Corn Cake
Breakfast Bacon
Coffee

Halves of Grape Fruit
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Eggs a la Buckingham
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Apple Sauce
Griddle Cakes, Maple Syrup
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Brown Bread Toast
Doughnuts
Boiled Eggs
Coffee

Cereal With Dates
Fried Sausages
Creamed Potatoes
Queen Muffins
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Strawberry Shortcakes
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Blueberry Muffins
Boiled Eggs
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Rye Muffins
Broiled Liver
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Coffee

Fried Hominy, Maple Syrup
Raised Biscuits
Sliced Peaches
Coffee

Halves of Canteloupes
Dried Beef in Cream
Pop-overs
Coffee

Raspberries
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
German Toast
Coffee

Iced Currants
Foamy Omelet
Sauted Potatoes
Twin Mountain Muffins
Coffee

Watermelon Slices
Scrambled Eggs
Baking Powder Biscuits
Coffee

Blackberries
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Breakfast Bacon
Hashed Browned Potatoes
Buttered Toast
Coffee

Grapes
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes
Cornmeal Muffins
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Stewed Prunes
Brioche Cakes
Coffee

Baked Apples
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Chickens' Livers
Pop-overs
Coffee

Sliced Bananas
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
French Omelet
Raised Hominy Muffins
Coffee

Oranges
Salt Codfish Hash
Golden Corn Cake
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Minced Lamb on Toast
Crullers
Coffee

Baked Bananas
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Boiled Eggs
Brown Bread Cream Toast
Coffee

Halves of Grape Fruit
Breakfast Bacon
Creamed Potatoes
Graham Gems
Coffee

Oranges
Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Dried Beef with Cream
Rye Muffins
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Stewed Prunes
Dropped Eggs on Toast
Coffee

Cereal with Sugar and Cream
Waffles
Apple Sauce
Coffee

Luncheon Menus
Grilled Sardines

Baked Apples with Cream
Rolls
Sponge Cake
Cocoa

Creamed Chicken
Celery
Rolls
Grapes and Apples
Tea

Lamb Croquettes
Dressed Lettuce
Baking Powder Biscuit

Gingerbread
Cheese
Tea

Split Pea Soup
Crisp Crackers
Egg Salad
Entire Wheat Bread
Oranges
Cocoa

Cold Sliced Meat
Cheese Fondue
Bread and Butter
Sliced Peaches
Cookies
Old Grist Mill Coffee

Broiled Ham
Scalloped Potatoes
Brown Bread and Butter
Sliced Oranges
Wafers
Scalloped Oysters
Rolls
Dressed Celery
Polish Tartlets
Tea

Salmi of Lamb
Olives
Bread and Butter
Cake
Chocolate

Oyster Stew
Oyster Crackers or Dry Toast
Pickles
Cream Whips
Lady Fingers
Scalloped Turkey
Brown Bread Sandwiches
Lettuce Salad
Cheese Straws
Tea

Turban of Fish
Saratoga Potatoes
Warmed over Muffins
Nuts
Crackers
Cheese
Tea

Cream of Tomato Soup
Crotons
Omelet with Vegetables
Bread and Butter
Bananas
Tea

Salad a la Russe
Graham Bread and Butter
Peach Sauce
Scotch Wafers
Tea

Cold Sliced Tongue
Macaroni and Cheese
Lettuce Salad
Crackers
Wafers
Coffee

Salmon Croquettes
Rolls
Dressed Lettuce
Strawberries and Cream
Tea

Beef Stew with Dumplings
Sliced Oranges
Cake
Tea

Lobster Salad
Rolls
Raspberries and Cream
Wafers
Russian Tea

Cold Sliced Corned Beef
Corn a la Southern
Entire Wheat Bread and Butter
Grapes and Pears

Dinner Menus

Cream of Celery Soup
Roast Beef
Franconia Potatoes
Yorkshire Pudding
Macaroni with Cheese
Tomato and Lettuce Salad
Chocolate Cream
Caf Noir

Tomato Soup
Baked Fish
Hollandaise Sauce
Shadow Potatoes
Cole Slaw
Fig Pudding
Crackers
Cheese
Caf Noir

Potato Soup
Boiled Fowl
Egg Sauce
Boiled Rice
Mashed Turnips
Celery
Vegetable Salad
Bread and Butter Pudding
Macaroni Soup
Fricassee of Lamb
Siced Potatoes
Stewed Tomatoes
String Bean and Radish Salad
Fruit and Nuts

Duchess Soup
Fried Fillets of Halibut
Shredded Potatoes
Hot Slaw
Beefsteak Pie
Irish Moss Blanc-Mange with
Vanilla Wafers

Kornlet Soup
Maryland Chicken
Baked Sweet Potatoes
Creamed Cauliflower
Cranberry Sauce
Dressed Lettuce
Polish Tartlets
Cafe Noir
Vegetable Soup
Veal Cutlets
Horseradish
Mashed Potatoes
Cream of Lima Beans
Dressed Celery
Cerealine Pudding

St. Germain Soup
Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket
Stuffed Potatoes
Spinach
Pineapple Pudding
Cream Sponge Cake
Cafe Noir

White Soup
Boiled Salmon
Egg Sauce
Boiled Potatoes
Green Peas
Cucumbers
Strawberries and cream
Cake

Tomato Soup without Stock
Braised Beef
Horseradish Sauce
Scalloped Potatoes
Squash
Baked Indian Pudding
Cafe Noir

Bisque Soup
Broiled Shad
Chartreuse Potatoes
Asparagus on Toast
Cucumber and Lettuce Salad
Prune Whip
Custard Sauce

Cream of Pea Soup
Boiled Mutton
Caper Sauce
Mashed Potatoes
Turkish Pilaf
Graham Pudding
Fruit and Nuts

Turkish Soup
Lamb Chops
French Fried Potatoes
Apple Fritters
Beet Greens
Caramel Custard
Cafe Noir

Irish Stew with Dumplings
Fish Croquettes
Dinner Rolls
Radishes
Custard Souffle
Creamy Sauce
Crackers
Cheese

Black Bean Soup
Halibut a la Creole
Potatoes en Surprise
Brussels Sprouts
Swiss Pudding
Cafe Noir

Cream of Clam Soup
Fried Chicken
Boiled Potatoes
Sliced Tomatoes
Shell Beans
Peach Short Cake
Crackers and Cheese

Cream of Lima Bean Soup
Roast Duck
Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Cauliflower au Gratin
Rice Croquettes with Currant Jelly
Grapes
Pears
Crackers
Cheese
Cafe Noir

Chicken Soup
Broiled Sword Fish
Cucumber Sauce
Baked New Potatoes
Sugared Beets
Strawberry Cottage Pudding
Iced Coffee

Menu for New England Thanksgiving Dinner

Oyster Soup
Crisp Crackers
Celery
Salted Almonds
Roast Stuffed Turkey
Giblet Gravy
Cranberry Jelly
Mashed Potatoes
Onions in Cream
Turnips
Chicken Pie
Thanksgiving Pudding
Sterling Sauce
Mince, Apple, and Squash Pie
Vanilla Ice Cream
Fancy Cakes
Fruit
Nuts and Raisins
Bonbons
Crackers
Cheese
Cafe Noir

Menu for Christmas Dinner

Oyster Cocktail
Consomme
Bread Sticks
Olives
Celery
Salted Pecans
Roast Goose
Potato Stuffing
Apple Sauce
Duchess Potatoes
Cream of Lima Beans
Chicken Croquettes with Green Peas

Dressed Lettuce with Cheese Straws
English Plum Pudding
Brandy Sauce
Frozen Pudding
Assorted Cake
Bonbons
Crackers
Cheese
Cafe Noir

Chapter XLII. FOOD VALUES.

A STUDY of food values is essential for the making of properly
balanced menus. A minimum of time devoted to this subject will
give one a working knowledge which will prove of inestimable
value.

The energy value of foods and the energy requirements of the body
are estimated in calories. Requirements of:
Children

Age

1 2 years
900 1200 calories per day

2 5 years
1200 1500 calories per day

6 9 years
1400 2000 calories per day

10 13 years
1800 2200 calories per day

14 20 years
2300 5000 calories per day

Adults

Age

20 60 years

When sleeping .4 calorie per pound of body weight per hour.

At slight exercise .6 calorie per pound of body weight per hour.

Examples: At meals, sewing, reading, writing, etc.

At light exercise 1 calorie per pound of body weight per hour.

Examples: Standing and walking.

At active muscular exercise 2 calories per pound of body weight
per hour.

Examples: General housework, carpentering, tennis, etc.

At severe muscular exercise 3 calories per pound of body weight
per hour.

Examples: Digging, horseshoeing, football, etc.

60 70 years
10% reduction

70 80 years
20% reduction

80 90 years
30% reduction

How to Determine the Number of Calories Required Daily by an
Individual Using the Above Table

Woman. Age 35. Weight 125

Sleeping
8 hours

Slight exercise: At meals, sewing, reading, etc.
8 hours

At light exercise: Standing and walking
6 hours

At active muscular exercise: General housework
2 hours

8 * .4 calorie     = 3.2 calories
8 * .6 calorie     = 4.8 calories
6 * 1 calorie      = 6 calories
2 * 2 calories    = 4 calories

= 18 calories required per pound of body weight

125 * 18 calories = 2250 calories for day's requirement.

Other calculations show that the needs of a person estimated in
calories vary from twenty-two to thirty-five hundred for one day.
Of this amount from ten to fifteen per cent (220 to 425 calories)
should come from protein foods and .015 iron gram should be
furnished.

It is not necessary to consider the amount of calcium (of which .7
gram is the daily requirement) if one pint of milk is supplied for
each person. An adequate milk supply will furnish also one-third
the amount of phosphorus required, making this calculation
practically unnecessary.

Foods rich in fats have the highest caloric value, while foods rich
in protein, sugar, and starch have greater caloric value than those
containing much water.

The following table will enable one to calculate quickly the
number of calories, protein calories, and grams of iron supplied by
the more common foods. The figures for the most part are given in
hundreds and even numbers to facilitate this calculation. They
therefore vary slightly from those found in Bulletin 28,
Department of Agriculture, but seem, nevertheless, especially well
adapted for everyday use, for investigation shows that even the
best authorities differ.

"The Laboratory Manual of Dietetics" by Professor Mary Swartz
Rose and "Science and Nutrition" by Graham Lusk are valuable
books to consult for the further consideration of this important
subject.

TABLE OF FOOD VALUES OF THE MORE COMMON FOODS
Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Almonds
1 cup shelled
4 oz.
700
95
.0021

Apples
2 qts.
3 lbs.
600
16
.0030

Apricots, Dried
32/3 cups (56 halves)
1 lb.
1200
84

Asparagus
1 can
1 lb. net
80
27
.0038

Fresh
20 large stalks
1 lb.
100
32
.0043

Bacon, Smoked

1 lb.
2600
172
.0052

Bananas
3 large
1 lb.
300
14
.0018

Barley, Pearl
2 cups
1 lb.
1600
154
.0057

Beans, String
1 can
1 lb. 4 oz.
110
24
.0040

1 qt.
12 oz.
130
28
.0059

Dried
2 cups
1 lb.
1500
408
.0300

Dried Lima
2 cups
1 lb.
1500
328
.0292

Beef, Corned
1 lb.
1200
259
.0093

Dried, Salted, or Smoked

1 lb.
800
544
.0200

Liver

1 lb.
600
350
.0118

Porterhouse Steak

1 lb.
1000
346
.0120

Roast

1 lb.
1550
428
.0155

Round, Lean

1 lb.
650
353
.0130

Rump, Lean

1 lb.
800
346
.0120

Beets
1 pt.
1 lb.
200
23
.0026

Bread, Bakers'
1 loaf
1 lb.
1100
168
.0033

Graham
1 loaf
1 lb.
1100
160
.0143

Bread Crumbs
1 cup
23/4 oz.
200
128
.0006

Butter
1 tbsp
1/2 oz.
100

2 cups
1 lb.
3400
18

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Cabbage
1/4 head
1 lb.
120
25
.0042

Carrot
3 large
1 lb.
150
16
.0024

Cauliflower
1 very small head
11 oz.
100
23

Celery
1 bunch
1 lb.
60
16
.0016

Cheese, American

1 lb.
2000
522

Neufchatel
1 cheese
21/2 oz.
225
52

Cherries, Candied
10 medium
1 oz.
100
Chicken, Broilers

1 lb.
300
232

Chocolate

Unsweetened
1 cake
8 oz.
1400
118

Citron

1 lb.
1400
9

Clams, Round
1 pt.
1 lb.
200
117

Cocoa
1 box
1/2 lb.
1100
195

Cocoanut, Shredded
1 cup
24/5 oz.
500
20

Corn, Canned
1 can
1 lb. 4 oz.
550
63
.0031

Corn Meal
3 cups
1 lb.
1600
166
.0048

Cornstarch
1 cup
41/2 oz.
450
0

Crackers, Unsweetened

1 lb.
1800
176
.0063

Cranberries
1 qt.
1 lb.
200
7
.0026

Cream, Heavy
1/2 pt.
8 oz.
800
19
.0008

Thin
1/2 pt.
8 oz.
440
23
.0004

Cucumbers
2 medium
1 lb.
68
12

Currants, Dried
23/8 cup
1 lb.
1400
43

Dates, Unstoned
1 package
10 oz.
850
21
.008

Egg
1
2 oz.
75
25
.0014

Flour
1 cup
4 oz.
400
50
.0016

Entire Wheat
1 cup
4 oz.
400
62
.0053

Graham
1 cup
5 oz.
500
75
.0066

Fish

Haddock

1 lb.
160
152
.0016

Halibut Steak

1 lb.
550
337
.0011

Lobsters

1 lb.
140
107

Oysters, Solid

1 cup
200
100

Salmon, Canned

1 lb.
660
353
.0026

Fowl

1 lb.
750
248
.0097

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Grapes
13/4 cup
1 lb.
328
23
.0042

Ham, Smoked, Medium Fat

1 lb.
1600
248
.0096

Hominy, Raw
1 cup
6 oz.
600
56

Lamb, Leg, Medium Fat

1 lb.
800
288
.0104

Loin

1 lb.
1200
290
.0120

Shoulder

1 lb.
1200
261
.0096

Chops, Broiled

1 lb.
1400
332
.0126

Leg, Hind Quarter, Medium Fat

1 lb.
850
288
.0110

Lemons
2 large
111/2 oz.
100
9
.0013

Lard
1 cup
8 oz.
2000
0

Lentils, Dried
21/3 cups
1 lb.
1581
466
.0096

Lettuce
1 head
9 oz.
50
12
.0025

Macaroni, Uncooked
1 cup
4 oz.
400
60

Milk, Skim
1 cup
81/2 oz.
80
32
.0050

Whole
1 cup
81/2 oz.
170
34
.0005

Molasses, Cane
1 cup
12 oz.
900
33

Mushrooms
44
1 lb.
200
63

Oats, Rolled
1 cup
23/4 oz.
300
48
.0027

Oil, Salad or Cooking
1 tbsp.
2/5 oz.
100
0

Onions
41/2 large
1 lb.
200
25
.0022
Orange Juice
1 cup
8 oz.
100
0

Oranges
1 large
9.5 oz.
100
6
.0006

Peanuts
1 cup shelled
51/3 oz.
800
156
.0028

Peas, Canned
1 can
1 lb. 4 oz.
300
78
.0045

Dried
1 cup
8 oz.
800
222
.0120

Pecans, Shelled
1 cup
51/3 oz.
1100
58

Pineapples
1 can
1 lb. 4 oz.
800
8
.0088

Pork, Loin Chops, Medium Fat

1 lb.
1200
243
.0084

Salt Fat

1 lb.
3500
34
.0014

Potatoes
4 medium
1 lb.
300
32
.0045

Prunes
46 (22/3 cups)
1 lb.
1200
32
.0108

Rice
1 cup
8 oz.
800
74
.0024

Raisins
1 cup
51/3 oz.
500
15
.0050

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Rye Meal
1 cup
41/8 oz.
400
31

Sausage, Pork

1 lb.
2000
235
.0080

Spinach
1 pk.
3 lbs.
300
105
.0399

Sugar, Confectionery
1 cup
41/2 oz.
500
0

Brown
1 cup
51/2 oz.
600
0

Granulated
1 cup
8 oz.
900
0

Tapioca (Pearl)
1 cup
6 oz.
600
21

Tomatoes, Fresh
4 medium
1 lb.
100
16
.0017

Canned
1 qt. can
2 lbs. 1 oz.
200
43

Tripe

1 lb.
260
212

Turkey

1 lb.
1000
292
.0110

Turnip
2
1 lb.
150
16
.0019

Veal, Breast, Medium Fat

1 lb.
700
280
.0098

Leg, Medium Fat

1 lb.
600
280
.0114

Liver, Medium Fat

1 lb.
550
344
.0126

Loin, Medium Fat

1 lb.
670
290
.0162

Walnuts
1 cup
4 oz.
800
83
.0023

1. As Purchased

Cards may be used keep records of the food values of recipes or
meals, ruled and made out as follows:
Recipe or Meal

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

HOW TO ESTIMATE THE FOOD VALUE OF A RECIPE

Illustration. Baking Powder Biscuits

First enter the list of ingredients with the amount of each required.
Consult Table of Food Values for the protein, iron grams, and total
calories, and enter in their respective columns.

Recipe or Meal: Baking Powder Biscuit

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Flour
2 cups

800
100
.0030

Lard
1 tbsp.

Butter
1 tbsp.

Milk
1/2 cup

85
17
.00025

Totals

1110
117
.00325

HOW TO ESTIMATE THE FOOD VALUE OF A MEAL

Illustration. Breakfast for Four

First enter the list of food to be served with the amount of each
required. Consult Table of Food Values for the protein, iron grams,
and total calories and enter in their respective columns.

Recipe or Meal: Breakfast for Four

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Oranges
4 (large)
38 oz.
400
28
.0024

Hominy
3/4 cup
41/2 oz.
450
42

Baking Powder Biscuits
see recipe card

1110
125
.00325

Sugar
1/4 cup
2 oz.
225

Whole Milk
2 cups

349
68
.0010

Butter
2 tbsps.
1 oz.
200

Totals

2725
263
.00665

HOW TO ESTIMATE THE FOOD VALUE OF A DAYS
RATIONS

Calculate lunch and dinner same as breakfast, entering on cards as
follows:

Recipe or Meal: Lunch or Supper

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Macaroni

1/4 lb.
400
60

Cheese

2 oz.
150
65

Thin White Sauce
2 cups
p. 266
815
77
.0013

Golden Corn Cake Recipe

p. 75
1470
162
.0057

Butter

2 oz.
400

Lettuce
1/2 head

25
6
.00125

Oil
2 tbsps.

200

Bananas
3
1 lb.
300
14
.0018

Cream
1/4 pt.

220
11
.0002

Totals

3980
395
.00965

Recipe or Meal: Dinner

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Beef Rump, Lean

1 lb.
800
346
.0120

Potatoes
4
1 lb.
300
32
.0045

Spinach
1/2 pk.

150
52
.0199

Norwegian Prune Pudding
p. 416

1650
16
.0054

Cream
1/4 pt.

220
11
.0002

Bread
1/2 loaf
1/2 lb.
550
84
.00165

Butter

1 oz.
200

Totals

3870
541
.04365

Enter meals as follows:

Recipe or Menu: Day's Ration for Four

Material
Measure
Weight
Total Calories
Protein Calories
Iron Grams

Breakfast

2725
263
.00665

Lunch or Supper

3980
395
.00965

Dinner

3870
541
.04365

Totals

10,575
1199
.05995

Required

10,000
1,000
.06

to
to

12,000
5,000

